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What did you fix today? (part 2)

Chilling

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Chilling

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  • Mar 7, 2026
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A Nikon L35AF2 point & shoot. One of the worst cases of battery leakage I've ever seen.
 
Cleaned and lubed a Minolta Autocord focus lever and now removing the covering for replacement.
 
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Made two camera bellows
 

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Test print from the Autocord with a frozen focus I cleaned up. Very impressed with this camera, I hope the Rolleiflex 2.8C I just ordered is better or equal
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Another Ricoh 500 with a frozen focus ring and a Nikon F2 with non-responsive DP-1 finder; still have to address the low speed escapement though...
 
Cleaned sticky shutter on old Agfa 4x5 lens, replaced broken filter ring on Canon FD 50/1.8
 
The Clarus' shutter was still a little erratic on 1/100th. Capping on the last 1/5th of the frame during the exposure.
Looked at where the moving parts might be holding it up. Turns out the shutter speed dial needed a little lubrication around the bottom where it connects to the none-moving central axel. Cleaned the contacting surface and added a small drop of oil.

Ready to run another test
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Restitched the bottom to the leather case of my Ansco Super Regent. Now I know why the lining is red; to hide the blood...

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I know your pain!

Used a dab of cold weld epoxy on a hole in a Plaubel roll film adapter from a missing rivet. It left some pretty (yet annoying) lightleaks along one edge of the film I shot with a K.W. Patent Etui 6x9

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The shutter still needs a little servicing.
 
Spiratone Plura-Coat 24mm f/2.5 in Minolta MD mount.

Everything on the back end of the lens was loose and the rear elements needed cleaning. There’s some coating damage so there was a limit to how good I could get things but, hey, there’s a limit to how good this lens was ever going to be in the first place!
 
Jupiter 35mm screw mount lens. This is a beautiful lens with a large projecting rear element. You rarely find one with the immaculate glass that this one came with. I bought it from a seller in Ukraine, and then got a partial (80%) refund because the focus was stiff and unusable from all the dried grease. I finally got it disassembled, cleaned the helical with naphtha, and reassembled it. Works perfectly now, and I've got myself a very nice lens for a Jackson (20 USD).

Andy
 
Yes, it is! J-12s are under appreciated, IMO.

I've heard this from many users, but been unable to try this one out so far due to its inability to focus. I'm just about to rectify that. :smile:

Andy
 
Got a non-functional Petri clip-on light meter for my Petri display and managed to get it working again by dismantling it and putting the movement back into the pivot point. The meter now deflects, but I am sure it is not accurate, but I don't really care as it is for display, as is the Petri Color Correct Super 2.8 that it will reside upon. The rangefinder has a detached film advance and heavy deposits on the rear element, but I have several other functioning Petri Color Correct Rangefinders of the same era, so I'll just let it look pretty in my display case...
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Took the Compur-S out of the KW Patent Etui.
Gave it an ultra sonic bath.
Still doesn't operate a 100% right, but will give it a bit more TLC this week.
 
Pentax SP 1000: fixed the mirror stuck in the up position by removing base plate and light oiling the cog and pivot points, premium sewing machine oil. Nice classic "kee-klonk" mirror+shutter noise!

Mirror foam may meed attention, not sure how critical?

Older freebie cameras are great to work on, no pressure.
 
Pentax SP 1000: fixed the mirror stuck in the up position by removing base plate and light oiling the cog and pivot points, premium sewing machine oil. Nice classic "kee-klonk" mirror+shutter noise!

Mirror foam may meed attention, not sure how critical?

Older freebie cameras are great to work on, no pressure.

Nice! Get a refoam kit from Jon Goodman (jon_goodman@yahoo.com) for $11 shipped. (I just bought a kit for my Spotmatic SP F from him) and start grabbing Super Takumar lenses while you can still find them cheap! You won't be disappointed...
 
Nice! Get a refoam kit from Jon Goodman (jon_goodman@yahoo.com) for $11 shipped. (I just bought a kit for my Spotmatic SP F from him) and start grabbing Super Takumar lenses while you can still find them cheap! You won't be disappointed...

Thanks for the refoam kit source.

I did get Takumar lenses and a Tamron zoom, a freebie find, per this post
 
Thanks for the refoam kit source.

I did get Takumar lenses and a Tamron zoom, a freebie find, per this post

Oh yeah, I remember that...

You can get a 28mm and a 135m prime for peanuts; the 35mm and others go for more, but still are relatively cheap.
 
A little proud of myself for adjusting the focus on my c33, added shims to move the focusing screen up to match the film plane. It's as close as I can tell with a 2.8 lens looking at a ruler.
 
Haven’t fixed anything today, but I am almost done with my first leather lens cap, which will also serve as a shutter. The is for a nice 270mm Schneider Xenar in a black enamel brass barrel. I think my leather is a little thick but it should work. I do have a thinner piece of leather coming from Italy for my next attempt. I'm waiting for the glue to dry, which will take awhile because I soaked the leather in water for an hour before stretching it in the cardboard cap. Just have to be patient. I should have it finished tomorrow.
 

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Cleaned a Canon Fd 50mm, spot of fungus on the front element now gone. Created a Frankenstein Breechlock Canon 50mm, had one with fungus between the front lens elements which I couldn't clean but found another with a scratched rear element so put the bits together to make one good lens. Combined 2 Nikon FGs, one missing the shutter button and the winder lever, the other had dead electrics. Got one fully working FG now. Next up Canon AE1 programme that is squealing.
 
Fixed another mirror lock, my thrift shop Olympus Pen F find would occasionally lock on down - or side to be exact!.

I found instructions online, which did not match what mine looked like, but, after observing the workings, a few tiny drops of sewing machine did it!

Big scare; just as I was pulling the base plate, a small black part jumped up in the air!
That turned out to be the end-of-roll release pin, which I reinstalled.
Odd design: with the base plate off, this part isn't retained when doing a frame advance, as I see it (maybe wrongly).
 
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