Can't have enough laboratory stopwatches
Before:
How does it looks like, especially the mechanics inside? I love the clockworks and would like to study.
Can't have enough laboratory stopwatches
Before:
Rust damage
Epoxy and paint
After: .....it's the one in the middle.
It's a simplified clock mechanism.
Main spring, driving the gear train, driving the escape wheel, that skips a single tooth every time the balance fork is kicked over by the balance spring/wheel at the top
I still need to tweak the balance spring adjustment a little as the timer is losing a second or 2 per hour at this point.
Ah, that's a really nice clockwork. Still looking good despite the outside has been rusted.
Tuning the sec. is one of the hardest part here in these old and simple-looking gears. Have you cleaned each pivots and given new clock oil ? Try this first.
If you have steady hands and watchmaker 's lope , try checking the flying wheel's pivot ends. (the silver one above) . Sometimes these ends could be worn and need to be reshaped to bring back to order.
Thanks,
I was expected it to have surface rust on everything when I opened it up. But it seems to rust was limited to the bottom of the bezel.
I've cleaned all the pivots and added pinpricks of oil, everything I could reach without tearing it down. The balance wheel pivots looked good so I didn't want to disassemble it, in fear of messing up the spring.
Anyway, I can still play with the spring adjustment a bit, to see if that improves anything.
And a loss of 2 seconds an hour isn't particularly critical for my film developing.
if it lost 2 sec per hour which means 48 sec. for 24 hours.
Few darkroom timings will run longer than an hour, and two parts in 3600 are undetectable with our processes.
Now, if you're keeping time with a clock that gets wound once a week, losing five minutes or more per week is, I agree, unacceptable.
Few darkroom timings will run longer than an hour, and two parts in 3600 are undetectable with our processes.
Now, if you're keeping time with a clock that gets wound once a week, losing five minutes or more per week is, I agree, unacceptable.
This!
A mechanical clock generally shouldn't have an error of more than 6 seconds a day. Watches even less.
There still plenty of wiggle room on the spring adjustment lever, so I'll see about tweaking it in the next few days.
One of my customers sent me the front plate of a FRANKE & HEIDECKE ROLLEIFLEX 3.5 (he refurbished the body himself) because the aperture was stuck wide open and nearly no shutter speed was working.
So I disassembled the plate and the shutter & aperture cover, cleaned everything from hardened oil and assembled all parts again.
View attachment 364080
View attachment 364081
View attachment 364082
Now it works fine.
Time to hang your shingle out for shutter repairs!I had an Alphax #4 shutter with a loose, wonky cocking lever.
I bravely opened the shutter, and found that the mounting screw was loose.
I tightened the offending screw, and re-assembled the shutter.
Amazingly enough, the shutter still works! ...and the lever operates properly.
Recreated some vintage Kodak material to go into my US Army portable darkroom set.
Next up, recreating some 8x10 photographic paper envelopes
Any particular size, thickness or material you're looking for? Several outlets sell shims in all shapes and sizes...Anyone know where to find the spacers ? (Not the screw washers)
I am seriously suspecting that the previous technician lost one from the lens barrel that makes a early Super Takumar 55/2 slightly misaligned at infinity.
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