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What did you fix today? (part 2)

I installed a dimmer switch to replace the overhead light switch in our kitchen. The new LED fixture was often brighter than needed or wanted.
There is a photographic connection - I develop film in the kitchen
 
Fiddled around, tightened a few screws, and adjusted the ground glass back mounting hardware on my new-to-me Eastman 8x10 so it won't fall off..
Tested the bellows for leaks...found 1 tiny pinhole & patched it.
Played around with a few lenses & lensboards...found that I can use my B&J Rembrandt 6"x6" lensboards on it...
Oh Happy Day!
 
  • Boomlight
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  • Reason: I was supposed to reply, not make a new post
eli griggs said:
Do the two cells have parity or do you have to further adjust the camera meter?
Click to expand...

The new solar cell puts out about twice what the selenium cell did. I've tried partly covering the cell with electrical tape, which gets me within a stop or two after some fiddling. Since then I've read that adding a 100k-ohm resistor will do the trick more accurately.
 
I installed more wireless remotes in my darkroom. Now I have 4 different locations I can switch on the overhead lights. Saves walking back and forth to the main switch. I should have done this years ago.
 

Lens registration? The left sides of the photos seem a little soft to me.
 

The CL is a super easy camera to install a diode/resistor in the bottom accessible battery out power line and there is at least one very good YouTube video on it with the most difficulty in keeping the five (5) lower plate screws in order, of different lengths, and the tiny plastic tube-like spacer under the longest screw, between the camera and bottom plate.

That is, IF, that is where you need to place the other resistor.

All bets are off if it goes somewhere between the cell and meter.

That, I haven't a clue about.

Good luck and Cheers to all.
 
Replaced the light baffle between the enlarger head and negative carrier on my Omega C760 Dichroic, to properly cut the light leakage from the negative stage.

Installing black gaffer tape around the lower portion of the head around the negative stage was a reasonable temporary fix, but finding and using the correct seal means I don't have to mess with sliding the negative carrier in between strips doubled-over gaffer tape hanging around the carrier to cut the leaks.

...and raised my wall mounted enlarger column above the enlarging table to give more flexibility in positioning a 16x20 easel, which can now slide under the column base support bracket.
 
I've installed a heatsink on the main chip of my DiMage IV due to overheating concerns.

 
The Compur shutter of my Voigtländer Bergheil 10x15 camera. It was mostly dirty inside. Now it's clean again and good to go for perhaps another 100 years.
 
mshchem said:
I installed more wireless remotes in my darkroom. Now I have 4 different locations I can switch on the overhead lights. Saves walking back and forth to the main switch. I should have done this years ago.
Click to expand...
I love mine. The only downside is changing the batteries, but I will live...
 
I’ve fixed the advance mechanism of my Instamatic 714. The end of the main spring snapped off due to excess resistance caused by an improperly re-rolled film and user error… Fortunately, I was able to disassemble the mechanism, snip the damaged end of the spring and reshape it with my rotary tool and a cutting wheel. Finicky business to say the least.







After the fix, the advance work normally.

 

Great job. I had to do that once on a winding lever spring.
 
General cleaning job of a Autographic Vest Pocket Kodak.
Still some pinholes in the bellows to take care off

 
Picked up a 1937 Reflex Korelle with 1935 Schneider 7.5cm f2.8 at a camera fair. Excellent cosmetic condition. Tuned and calibrated the shutter, replaced the slow speed escapement spring, adjusted the collimation and focus screen. It works quite well!
 
mshchem said:
That's great! Very handsome tool set.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This is not including the case full of specialized camera repair tools I've collected over the years.




Nice! I was gifted a Reflex-Korelle with several lenses a while time ago. Unfortunately the blade spring that returns the winding lever to the starting position has snapped. And the wire needed replacing as well.
I've not found a good source of replacement springs for it yet.

Luckily, I still have another Reflex-Korelle that's in working condition.
 

Mine came with the advance and cocking uncoupled. I read it's a weak spot for the Korelles. No automatic advance stop either. It has a custom knob for the advance, you have to align the frame number in the window and you cock via the shutter knob.

I wouldn't mind replacing the frame stopper but I'm not sure how it would disengage when loading or after a shot. Going manually, the spacing isn't great. Would be glad to have more info if you have some!

At least the shutter works but is slow (1/500 ~= 1/100, 1/200 ~=1/60, etc...). Measurable tapering but it doesn't affect the images.
 
Salyut-S refurbishment has taken longer than expected, and it finally dawned on me that my thinner-than-stock shutter ribbons were to blame. So I designed adapter sleeves to increase take-up spool diameter: That ought to do the trick!

 
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