What did you fix today? (part 2)

Jonno85uk

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albada said:
The shot with the Zorki looks fine to me. What flaw am I missing?

Mark Overton
Click to expand...
I will admit its difficult to see but it's more obvious with a more even scene (large skies); the image gets gradually darker going left to right. I haven't properly setup the curtain tension since I got it unstuck (dried grease). I only set the tension tight enough so that the shutter would operate.
 

4season

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Just finished restoring a 1940 NKVD FED-1.
 

Tel

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I've tinkered with leaf-shutter repairs but nearly always stopped at the stage of removing/cleaning/replacing the shutter blades. (I did try this on a Seikosha-S with less than fully satisfactory result.) But lately I have been playing with Ilex No.3 shutters and been pretty happy with the outcomes. So I bought a junker and decided to do my best Chris Sherlock imitation on it while doing a full teardown and rebuild. No stress--purely a learning exercise. I had searched for photos and diagrams without much luck, but found some, along with good info, in the National Camera ("Learn Camera Repair") manual. It's in lesson 10 "Variations on the Escapement Retard" starting on page 99. So I opened up the shutter and tried to get my head into the functionality. (The manual really helped here.) I learned the logic of the design and the dual-escapement sequence. Fired it over and over until it got stuck (oil on the blades) to see how the mechanism works. And I found out what a phone camera is good for: taking closeup shots of shutter mechanisms for later reference. I carefully took it apart, documenting every step, cleaned out all the oil (there was a lot) and put it back together. There was water damage to the flash sync mechanism and I never shoot flash, so I didn't replace that part. It's a much simpler mechanism when you remove the flash sync bits. Last night I finished reassembly and it all worked. And I only lost one spring! (I had a spare...)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/terry276/51925833527/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/terry276/51927439520/in/dateposted-public/
 
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AnselMortensen

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Omega 45D....New bellows from Custom Bellows installed.

Brownie Hawkeye resto-mod.

Today was a good day.
 

Sirius Glass

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My WideLux F7 was showing banding so I fired it in each speed 1/250, 1/125 and 1/15 150 times. Now when I fire 1/15 I can see that the lens does not hesitate part way across.
 

Javier González

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Not today, some weeks ago I bought a Moskva 5 for parts (incidentally from Ukranie) with a clean glass and more or less working shutter. My intention was to make one useable one from the purchased and another one I own with a broken lens (a drop from a 6 feet tripod). The project was more involving than expected, mainly because the shutter in both cameras was inoperative, and the low speed escapement desintegrated itself in BOTH shutters when trying to clean. It was not fun to reassembly it!. I have had a similar experience with the shutter of an Iskra, they are compur copies and the design is good, but the materials and adjustment are far worse than the original. Finally I managed to build a reasonable camera, albeit with a non-working self timer. All my intents to make it work have been null. The rangefinder is working fine, and I have found it easier to adjust than it is stated in some places!. Now loaded with Ilford HP5
 

Helios 1984

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I have adjusted the focus on my Contaflex IV and shimmed the mirror/focus screen assembly. The latter did not align with the distance scale but, fortunately, doubling the shims fixed the problem.
 

Helios 1984

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I've made new leatherette covers for the Contaflex IV with material scavenged from a Zenith TTL that I've binned years ago. The old paper-like material was feeble and started to chip away after disassembling the camera for a 2nd time. The new/old material is vinyl-like and has a fabric layer, it's much more flexible and won't fall apart anytime soon.


 

Bazza D

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I got my Nikkorex F working. The film advance wasn't catching. I took it apart and figured out what part wasn't working. Wasn't sure exactly why it wasn't working. Thought about it for a bit and then figured, I would just clean that part and see what happened. That did the trick and it works fine now. Replaced a light seal as well and a few test pictures are drying. They look okay. Tank of a camera but I really like it.
 

Roger Thoms

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mshchem said:
Built a nice perch for my 1917 Folmer and Schwing 11x14 commercial camera
Click to expand...

I trying it envision your perch, any chance you could post a photo of it. It be cool to see the camera too.

Roger

My efforts today, a set of quickie lens caps for my Gundlach Radar 8x10 f6.3 lens.

 

Helios 1984

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I’ve used recycled film roll light tight material to make new door hinge seals for my Trip 35 and Pen-EE2.
 

4season

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Designed (in FreeCAD) and 3D-printed a spanner wrench allowing me to remove the top cover of my FED-5s, performed general CLA and repaint, started creating pattern for new body coverings. Oh so tempting to buy a laser cutter, but where would I put it? Probably will opt for a much lower-tech solution, like simply using a printout of my drawing as a cutting pattern, else sending the data file to someone else for cutting.
 

4season

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Making sure that the patterns that I've drawn out will actually fit..!
 

grat

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Technically it was yesterday, but I brought a "mostly dead" Konica FT-1 back to life. Usual electrical gremlin that affects these cameras-- the rubber holding the ribbon cables in place deteriorates, and the connectors corrode.
 

4season

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It certainly hasn't taken me very long to accumulate Nikon SLRs! The F body was broken in ways which seemed deliberate: Was it used as a training tool for service techs? Because I don't think that the mirror lockup or Bulb shutter settings would normally fail as they did here, and it took me quite awhile to diagnose, but once I did, the solution was easy enough. Nikkormat FTN needed more typical CLA type work. F3 still has problems with shutter capping at higher speeds. I'll check to see that shutter tension wasn't messed with, and will want to use manufacturer's lowest recommended settings. Perhaps shutter drum + rollers need additional attention.

55/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor is known for lubricant problems, am guessing that Nikon switched to a lighter grease which had problems with flowing where it wasn't wanted, and drying out. CLA-ing focusing helicoids tends to be a messy job, and some of these AIS lenses have floating lens elements, which means multiple helicoids. But ultimately, tidying up the older 105/2.5 and 55/2.8 AIS Micro lenses proved to be one-afternoon mini-projects.


 

Tel

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Rehabilitated a "parts or repair" C220 and a Sekor 105mm lens. The camera just needed some TLC and maintenance to the film advance mechanisms. The lenses just needed disassembly and cleaning but the shutter was kind of a mess--the aperture blades had oil on them that had turned to glue and as a result, some of them were bent beyond repair. (Somebody tried to force it...) So I swapped the shutter for another Seikosha S I had fixed (I have a couple of backups) and re-collimated. Then I took the damaged shutter apart and pulled a fresh set of blades from my parts bin and installed them, only to discover that the shutter wouldn't fire. Turned out that one of the escapement gears was slantwise, with one end of its shaft out of its bearing hole. I wiggled it back into place and it was a happy escapement once more. So now I have a full complement of backup shutters again! And a nice "new" C220.
 

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wahiba

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I have just bought a Diana Mini on eBay. In box and obviously not used much. Unfortunately I discovered the shutter was sticking, although a light touch released it and the smear of oil on the blades suggested someone might have tried some misplaced maintenance. Anyhow with careful use of a cotton bud I hope I have fixed it. Good deal for £45 as it came with three 2006 36 exposure colour films.
 

Ray Morgenweck

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Fitted a Nikkor HC f2 to my Model 22 Perfex
 

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Tel

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Bought a really ugly-looking 65mm lens pair for C-series Mamiyas. The glass is damaged beyond repair--scratched and gouged--but I wanted the Seikosha-S shutter. It looks fixable: I've freed up the aperture blades and now it just needs an escapement CLA to get the slow speeds right. Bonus: a nice lens cap for my good 65mm. And a couple of mounting rings that should clean up well.
 
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