What did you fix today? (part 2)

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Kino

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Bought a "parts" Nikon Nikkor H Auto 85mm f1.8 prime lens on Evilbay about 6 months ago that had loads of fungus and squealing helicoids, but the glass was not too bad.

Today I finally was able to utilize Richard Haw's excellent web tutorial on rebuilding and lubing this lens.
https://richardhaw.com/2020/10/24/repair-nikkor-h-85mm-f-1-8-auto/

Came out pretty well and was easier than I thought. The lens should be a pretty good performer, despite some minor flaws in the front element. The fungus is gone and it focuses like butter now.

IMG_7138.jpg IMG_7137.jpg
 

Sirius Glass

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Today the Jobo lift arm replacement came from CatLabs, after a fight about who was the boss, the replacement arm gave in and got into place and allowed me to attach the retaining screw. Thank you to those who referred me to CatLabs in another thread.
 

Tel

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A couple of weeks ago I took delivery of a decent Gundlach Korona 8x10. (I've been keeping an eye out for one for about 5 years now...) Intended it to be a long-term project but once I got started I couldn't slow down. Wrapped it up except for a couple of small adjustments this past weekend. Mostly woodworking (sanding, staining, finishing) and a bit of metalworking (mostly cleaning and a little bit of adjusting). The bellows were in good shape and an old no-name brass projection lens I've had lying around was a good fit in the lensboard. I'll shoot some pics....
 
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Succesfully unbend the rim of filter on my Tamron SP 28-80 (without destroying the filter/lens). I was bend and unable to be screwed for a long time. Succesfully unbend and was able to unscrew it. Lens was not damaged so willl able to use other filter/hoods.
 

AZD

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C27E16B1-F200-40D2-8FCE-3D891026F092.jpeg


Well, maybe not a fix as much as a mod. I filed an AI notch into an otherwise minty Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4, which fixed the problem that I couldn’t use it on my FE2. Been on the fence about it for a while but worked up the courage. Measure 500 times, cut once. BTW, a proper high quality mill file can look almost as clean as a machine if you’re careful. A little black paint and it’ll be virtually invisible.
 

Donald Qualls

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BTW, a proper high quality mill file can look almost as clean as a machine if you’re careful.

Filing, done well, is more accurate and looks better than milling, done badly. And both the tool and the skill are cheaper to acquire.

I spent a few minutes this morning figuring out why the Graflok conversion (from 20th Century Camera) that I have on my Annie Speed was letting the Grafmatic and LomoGraflok move when mounted (to the point the Grafmatic almost pulled out when operating the mechanism). Turns out there were two factors at work. First, three of four four screws that retain the locking slides were less tight than they needed to be, and second, one end of one locking slide wasn't seated perfectly.

To be clear, this is not a complaint about the quality of work from 20th Century Camera. Mine was one of, if not the first Anniversary fit conversions they made (these are 3D printed); I had ordered (they offered only one conversion back at the time, likely they were as unaware as I of this subtle difference between the models), found the conversion didn't fit my camera, and then realized the mounting screw pattern on an Annie is slightly different from the Pacemaker. I contacted the seller/maker, and they very graciously took back the (opened, partly mounted, all parts returned to package) conversion I had and replaced it with one having correct hole positions for an Annie, at no additional cost to me, though they apparently used the same 3D models (mine still has the fifth screw hole under the film holder insertion path and the mount for the Pacemaker style swing-up rear peephole for the wire frame viewfinder).

A little careful repositioning, and reassembly with the loose lock slide correctly positioned and all four lock slide screws tight, and the movement in the lock slides has been eliminated. Test mounting the LomoGraflok shows it still has a little movement due to lock slide flex (it's a fairly thin composite material rather than steel like the originals), but it should be acceptable; it's not enough to disengage the positioning rib.

Overall, my hat's off to a maker who has put in the mental effort to offer support and accessories for these cameras (including conversions for RB Graflex, dry plate and wet plate holders to fit standard mounts, other Graflex-fit accessories, sheet film development add-ons for Paterson and Jobo tank systems) -- and whose customer service is good enough to (even slightly) redesign a product for, initially, a single customer.
 

AZD

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I re-greased a couple lenses. The first was an Industar 61 L39 mount recently acquired on this forum. Completely disassembled everything but the optics, cleaned, and lubed. It’s a smooth little lens now. Testing it on the M3 this weekend.

Finally got the motivation to fix the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f2.8 I picked up at a thrift store last fall. The helicoids were so stiff that on a cold day it was impossible to focus. I either had to fix it or never use it. Kind of intimidating to disassemble so many moving parts, but it all went back together. Works great now. Looking forward to using it more as I really like how versatile it is.
 

Kodachromeguy

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I made a strap for my Hasselblad using red webbing. The clips are the reproduction ones via eBay. I wanted a very flexible strap that I could wrap around the body when I tuck it into a camera bag. The genuine Hasselblad narrow leather straps are nice but still a bit too stiff. My OpTech strap is more comfortable but is rather bulky.

IMG_20220123_102014470_resize.jpg
 
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lobitar

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I re-greased a couple lenses. The first was an Industar 61 L39 mount recently acquired on this forum. Completely disassembled everything but the optics, cleaned, and lubed. It’s a smooth little lens now. Testing it on the M3 this weekend.

Finally got the motivation to fix the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f2.8 I picked up at a thrift store last fall. The helicoids were so stiff that on a cold day it was impossible to focus. I either had to fix it or never use it. Kind of intimidating to disassemble so many moving parts, but it all went back together. Works great now. Looking forward to using it more as I really like how versatile it is.
Mine is just as stiff. So nice to know it's not impossible to fix, however intimidating. Of course it would no doubt be twice as intimidating for myself.
 

lobitar

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I made a strap for my Hasselblad using red webbing. The clips are the reproduction ones via eBay. I wanted a very flexible strap that I could wrap around the body when I tuck it into a camera bag. The genuine Hasselblad narrow leather straps are nice but still a bit too stiff. My OpTech strap is more comfortable but is rather bulky.

View attachment 297816
Yes, the Hassy straps are clumsy. Nice solution!
 

AZD

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Mine is just as stiff. So nice to know it's not impossible to fix, however intimidating. Of course it would no doubt be twice as intimidating for myself.

The 105mm Micro Nikkor probably isn’t a good first project due to all the parts and nested helicoids, but if you’ve worked on other lenses before it’s not that much harder. Also, any Nikon service center should be familiar with them. Fortunately there’s still a shop in town that will service service many lenses and film/digital cameras from major companies.
 

wiltw

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The water dispenser in my refrigerator.
...uuuh, you meant something photographic?! :redface:
 

fdonadio

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There are better Hasselblad straps available, seek and you shall find.

For my taste, wider straps are more comfortable. For my Nikons, I love those wide yellow ones. For my Hassy, I got this wide synthetic strap (from a seller here, long time ago), that has a softer padding on the part that rests on the shoulder/neck.
 

Sirius Glass

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There are better Hasselblad straps available, seek and you shall find.

For my taste, wider straps are more comfortable. For my Nikons, I love those wide yellow ones. For my Hassy, I got this wide synthetic strap (from a seller here, long time ago), that has a softer padding on the part that rests on the shoulder/neck.

I have a wider Hasselblad one with padding for the 503 CX and narrow one for the 903 SWC.
 

Jonno85uk

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Today i got around to calibrating the rangefinder on my Zorki 4K. For ages i've just zone focused and used the Jupiter 8 at f8 most of the time.
The infinity & vertical was easy enough but adjusting the cam for 1m was a pain. I kept adjusting well past 1m either way. In the end I made a scribe mark of where the cam sat at one point and fettled the cam away from the line.

I wish the rangefinder patch didn't sit so far over to the right of the viewfinder, but oh well.
 

Jonno85uk

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Ok, so these images are of zero significance except to me. I focused up close with the rangefinder and the images came out in focus! That makes me happy

Focusing on the last "A" in Praktica @ f2.8.
2022-02-11-0021.jpg


Focusing on the cassette @f2.0
2022-02-11-0020.jpg


Something a bit more interesting on the same roll but weren't rangefinder checks (set to infinity @f8/11)
2022-02-11-0016.jpg

2022-02-11-0015.jpg


The eagle-eyed might see a problem that remains with this Zorki.
 

BobD

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I discovered that the name ring on the Konica 40/1.8 does not unscrew as one would expect since it has 2 spanner slots. It actually bayonets on and off. You twist it to the left a few degrees and then it practically falls off. Or, mine did, at least.
 

lobitar

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The 105mm Micro Nikkor probably isn’t a good first project due to all the parts and nested helicoids, but if you’ve worked on other lenses before it’s not that much harder. Also, any Nikon service center should be familiar with them. Fortunately there’s still a shop in town that will service service many lenses and film/digital cameras from major companies.
Thanks AZ - think I will hold my fire for now, as it's really quite a few years since I've taken helicoids apart.
 

4season

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Replaced the notorious sticky rubber damper found inside Pentax P3 and P30 cameras which can cause skipped frames of film:
_DSC2098.jpg
_DSC2103.jpg
 
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