Rolleiflex SL35 -- Rollei TLR Quality in a 35mm Camera
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Impressive !
Going back to the first few posts of this thread, I wanted the SL35 because it works better with the 18mm lens than the SL3003.
I'm finally starting to print some of the images taken with the 18mm lens and this camera. Here is one. This is an 11x14 from HP5 on Ilford MG FB.
I'm finally starting to print some of the images taken with the 18mm lens and this camera. Here is one. This is an 11x14 from HP5 on Ilford MG FB.
This one needed:
Unjamming the mechanism
Flush and lube all spinning cylinders and rods in the shutter mechanism
Adjustment of the opening and closing curtains tension
Adjustment of the high speed curtain gap
Adjustment of the slow speed escapement engagement point
Calibration of the meter
General cleaning
New old stock top plate
Picture shows the new top plate installed. What looks like 'brassing' on the new one is just reflection of incandescent lamps.
The old top with the brassing can be used for another camera. Maybe one with dents or one that has been engraved. Some people actually like the looks of a camera top with a little brassing on the corners.
Unjamming the mechanism
Flush and lube all spinning cylinders and rods in the shutter mechanism
Adjustment of the opening and closing curtains tension
Adjustment of the high speed curtain gap
Adjustment of the slow speed escapement engagement point
Calibration of the meter
General cleaning
New old stock top plate
Picture shows the new top plate installed. What looks like 'brassing' on the new one is just reflection of incandescent lamps.
The old top with the brassing can be used for another camera. Maybe one with dents or one that has been engraved. Some people actually like the looks of a camera top with a little brassing on the corners.
They pretty much have the same few issues to cause them to stop working*. After repairing one, it is just so much fun to do another, then another, and another....
I thought I'd pick the best of the bunch, but the results of my shutter tester and meter tester show them all about the same. They are all ready for use.
*The shutter curtains slow down and the closing curtain brake stops the closing curtain from coming all the way over, thus preventing it from triggering the mirror to come down.
I thought I'd pick the best of the bunch, but the results of my shutter tester and meter tester show them all about the same. They are all ready for use.
*The shutter curtains slow down and the closing curtain brake stops the closing curtain from coming all the way over, thus preventing it from triggering the mirror to come down.
This camera was nothing but problems, had 2, one had shutter problems galore and meter crapped out. Second 35 e mirror would not lift, meter out and advance lever unusable.
However when it did work it really delivered the HFT orange marked Planar lens gave beautiful rendition and sharpness
Particularly with PanF.
Bodies not too reliable
Lenses very good performance
SL 2000 interests me tho.
Harlequin
However when it did work it really delivered the HFT orange marked Planar lens gave beautiful rendition and sharpness
Particularly with PanF.
Bodies not too reliable
Lenses very good performance
SL 2000 interests me tho.
Harlequin
Thank you for sharing you experience.
Of course, as seen in this thread, my experience is dramatically different than yours as I have yet to encounter a broken SL35 nor have one break with my use.
Every 'parts camera' listed as 'broken' on ebay I bought merely needed CLA. So, as you see in the thread, I wound up with 5 working cameras and no spare parts.
The SL35 is just like every other cloth focal plane shutter camera in that without routine maintenance, the mechanism will eventually cease to operate correctly.
Of course, as seen in this thread, my experience is dramatically different than yours as I have yet to encounter a broken SL35 nor have one break with my use.
Every 'parts camera' listed as 'broken' on ebay I bought merely needed CLA. So, as you see in the thread, I wound up with 5 working cameras and no spare parts.
The SL35 is just like every other cloth focal plane shutter camera in that without routine maintenance, the mechanism will eventually cease to operate correctly.
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Partly inspired by this thread, I just purchased a black SL35 "Made in Germany" version that is jammed. The film advance lever is stuck and the shutter button is easily able to be pressed down, but doesn't fire the shutter. Taking off the bottom plate revealed that the shutter and mirror are cocked based on what I've seen in a few photos online, so it appears I'll need to dig deeper in to see if I can determine what the problem is.
Any guesses on what may be the issue?
Any guesses on what may be the issue?
Fantastic thread with some invaluable information on maintaining these cameras, thank you. I have a working German-made one coming to me with Zeiss 35mm and 85mm and a SK 50mm, so look forward to referring this thread if I need to service anything.
This should be posted all over this forum, thank you.
By chance, I purchased this Singapore-assembled SL35 very inexpensively with a couple of lenses. The closing curtain on the camera does not work at long exposures. Do I understand correctly that I need to lubricate the closing curtain shaft? I would not like to wash all the shafts, as this will lead to the need to adjust shutter speeds. Short ones work great.
Hello, I'm new here, from Spain. The information I found here about the SL35 has been very useful to me, I'm really grateful.
My SL35 is one of the earliest, bought by my father in 1970, and is with me since my youth, 40 years ago, with regular use. It has NEVER given me any problem (nor have been serviced) until two years ago when the first curtain begun moving slower than the second at 1/1000 and 1/500. Last year, opening times became slower, and sometimes the mirror stays up after shooting. This problems occur when the weather is cold; at higher temperatures it works fine, which makes me think it's just a problem of old lubrication getting thick.
I've opened the base, front, and top of the camera. On the front and bottom, I can access the curtain and shutter-cocker mechanisms for cleaning and re-lubricating them without disassembling any other part, I think. Now I'm going to remove the two plates, white and brass, with the speed setter. My question is if you think this disassembly will give me enough reach to clean and re-lubricate the timers under it.
I'd like to avoid opening the mechanisms themself, taking apart wheels, cams and levers, cause I don't think I am skilled enough. I have cleaned and repaired some cameras, including my SL66, never involving "clockwork" mechanism disassembly. If necessary I'll take it to a technician, but if I can fix it myself, I'd like to.
Thanks a lot!
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Picture here:
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Rolleiflex SL35: Near Mint Condition....But....
I picked up this nice Rolleiflex Sl35 with a non-functioning wind lever. I thought it was interesting because, rather than indicating "Made in Germany" or "Made in Singapore," this one has a sticker on it that reads: Assembled in Singapore of parts made in Germany and Singapore
www.photrio.com
Ah, thanks a lot. I will try!Picture here:
Rolleiflex SL35: Near Mint Condition....But....
I picked up this nice Rolleiflex Sl35 with a non-functioning wind lever. I thought it was interesting because, rather than indicating "Made in Germany" or "Made in Singapore," this one has a sticker on it that reads: Assembled in Singapore of parts made in Germany and Singapore
This escapement appears in the Rollei Repair Manual as lubricated with grease. Does it aply to the entire piece?, should it be aplied to every spindle? In other pieces it's shown the area to lubricate. Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Ok, thanks a lot, and the escapement spindles remains dry or with fine oil?
Thanks!!
Thank you, IC.
Your post about the Rolleiflex SL35 system has been extremely helpful to me. I really appreciate your effort and knowledge. Below are some of my experiences and a few questions.
In recent years, I have been trying to collect German-made Rollei SL35 and SL350 bodies. I am fortunate to own both now, but unfortunately they are both chrome finish, not black paint versions. Also, the frame counter on my SL350 (with working meter) no longer advances — I paid 130 EUR for it, so that was a bit disappointing.
From the information I found, only about 25,000 early SL35 units were made in Germany. The serial number on the mount should be ≤4025000, and the early German-made version has only one front screw, which is slotted screw.
If possible, may I suggest checking your SL35 bodies to see whether there are any exceptions? For collectors who are obsessed with German-made Rollei cameras, the true origin matters a lot. I hope this information is useful to you and other collectors.
Some users mentioned obvious differences in feel and mechanical quality between the German and Singapore SL35 bodies. I haven’t used a Singapore version myself, but I am very impressed by the build quality of my German SL35 — in my opinion, it may even rival Leica bodies of the same era.
Since you own several versions, I would love to hear your personal impression regarding the difference in feel and craftsmanship.
During my collecting process, I also found that many SL cameras fail due to the mirror not returning. In your experience, is this failure relatively simple to repair for an experienced camera technician?
I worry that an improper repair might cause irreversible secondary damage to the camera.
Again, thank you very much for your detailed posts. I truly hope you will continue sharing your disassembly topics and knowledge about the SL35 system.
Best regards
Your post about the Rolleiflex SL35 system has been extremely helpful to me. I really appreciate your effort and knowledge. Below are some of my experiences and a few questions.
In recent years, I have been trying to collect German-made Rollei SL35 and SL350 bodies. I am fortunate to own both now, but unfortunately they are both chrome finish, not black paint versions. Also, the frame counter on my SL350 (with working meter) no longer advances — I paid 130 EUR for it, so that was a bit disappointing.
1. Production origin & identification
From the information I found, only about 25,000 early SL35 units were made in Germany. The serial number on the mount should be ≤4025000, and the early German-made version has only one front screw, which is slotted screw.
If possible, may I suggest checking your SL35 bodies to see whether there are any exceptions? For collectors who are obsessed with German-made Rollei cameras, the true origin matters a lot. I hope this information is useful to you and other collectors.
2. Build-quality difference between German and Singapore production
Some users mentioned obvious differences in feel and mechanical quality between the German and Singapore SL35 bodies. I haven’t used a Singapore version myself, but I am very impressed by the build quality of my German SL35 — in my opinion, it may even rival Leica bodies of the same era.
Since you own several versions, I would love to hear your personal impression regarding the difference in feel and craftsmanship.
3. Mirror return failure repair difficulty
During my collecting process, I also found that many SL cameras fail due to the mirror not returning. In your experience, is this failure relatively simple to repair for an experienced camera technician?
I worry that an improper repair might cause irreversible secondary damage to the camera.
Again, thank you very much for your detailed posts. I truly hope you will continue sharing your disassembly topics and knowledge about the SL35 system.
Best regards
Hi, my German SL35 had that problem and I was able to fix it very easily. The mechanism (very simple) is easily accessible removing the top cover. If no parts are broken, cleaning it may be enough; it's worth a try.
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