Rolleiflex SL35 -- Rollei TLR Quality in a 35mm Camera

[ic-racer]

The 4 cameras all cleaned up nice on the outside, but it took a while to get them all working on the inside. The following graphs show the shutter speeds I was able to obtain.

 

[bernard_L]

The following graphs show the shutter speeds I was able to obtain.

Impressive !

 

[ic-racer]

Going back to the first few posts of this thread, I wanted the SL35 because it works better with the 18mm lens than the SL3003.

I'm finally starting to print some of the images taken with the 18mm lens and this camera. Here is one. This is an 11x14 from HP5 on Ilford MG FB.

 

[ic-racer]

A fifth SL35 has come my way. This one only $15. As you can see the mirror is stuck up.

 

[ic-racer]

This one needed:


Unjamming the mechanism
Flush and lube all spinning cylinders and rods in the shutter mechanism
Adjustment of the opening and closing curtains tension
Adjustment of the high speed curtain gap
Adjustment of the slow speed escapement engagement point
Calibration of the meter
General cleaning
New old stock top plate

Picture shows the new top plate installed. What looks like 'brassing' on the new one is just reflection of incandescent lamps.

The old top with the brassing can be used for another camera. Maybe one with dents or one that has been engraved. Some people actually like the looks of a camera top with a little brassing on the corners.

 

[ic-racer]

They pretty much have the same few issues to cause them to stop working*. After repairing one, it is just so much fun to do another, then another, and another....

I thought I'd pick the best of the bunch, but the results of my shutter tester and meter tester show them all about the same. They are all ready for use.

*The shutter curtains slow down and the closing curtain brake stops the closing curtain from coming all the way over, thus preventing it from triggering the mirror to come down.

 

[harlequin]

This camera was nothing but problems, had 2, one had shutter problems galore and meter crapped out. Second 35 e mirror would not lift, meter out and advance lever unusable.

However when it did work it really delivered the HFT orange marked Planar lens gave beautiful rendition and sharpness
Particularly with PanF.

Bodies not too reliable
Lenses very good performance
SL 2000 interests me tho.

Harlequin

 

[ic-racer]

Thank you for sharing you experience.

Of course, as seen in this thread, my experience is dramatically different than yours as I have yet to encounter a broken SL35 nor have one break with my use.

Every 'parts camera' listed as 'broken' on ebay I bought merely needed CLA. So, as you see in the thread, I wound up with 5 working cameras and no spare parts.

The SL35 is just like every other cloth focal plane shutter camera in that without routine maintenance, the mechanism will eventually cease to operate correctly.

 

[quilts]

Partly inspired by this thread, I just purchased a black SL35 "Made in Germany" version that is jammed. The film advance lever is stuck and the shutter button is easily able to be pressed down, but doesn't fire the shutter. Taking off the bottom plate revealed that the shutter and mirror are cocked based on what I've seen in a few photos online, so it appears I'll need to dig deeper in to see if I can determine what the problem is.

Any guesses on what may be the issue?

 

[Flapper]

Fantastic thread with some invaluable information on maintaining these cameras, thank you. I have a working German-made one coming to me with Zeiss 35mm and 85mm and a SK 50mm, so look forward to referring this thread if I need to service anything.

 

[RezaLoghme]

In year 2022 any camera will need preventive maintenance before being used. A camera can't be called "unreliable" if it fails because its owner didn't send it to service.

This should be posted all over this forum, thank you.

 

[ic-racer]

Partly inspired by this thread, I just purchased a black SL35 "Made in Germany" version that is jammed. The film advance lever is stuck and the shutter button is easily able to be pressed down, but doesn't fire the shutter. Taking off the bottom plate revealed that the shutter and mirror are cocked based on what I've seen in a few photos online, so it appears I'll need to dig deeper in to see if I can determine what the problem is.

Any guesses on what may be the issue?

Check this:

 

[Cy_prus]

By chance, I purchased this Singapore-assembled SL35 very inexpensively with a couple of lenses. The closing curtain on the camera does not work at long exposures. Do I understand correctly that I need to lubricate the closing curtain shaft? I would not like to wash all the shafts, as this will lead to the need to adjust shutter speeds. Short ones work great.

 

[Luis Salazar]

Underside of the speed setting cams showing the three levers that need to be in position when re-attaching the assembly.

This needs to be removed to get to the eccentric screw on the first-curtain cam which sets the slit width for shutter speeds 1/125 to 1/1000.

View attachment 325542

Hello, I'm new here, from Spain. The information I found here about the SL35 has been very useful to me, I'm really grateful.

My SL35 is one of the earliest, bought by my father in 1970, and is with me since my youth, 40 years ago, with regular use. It has NEVER given me any problem (nor have been serviced) until two years ago when the first curtain begun moving slower than the second at 1/1000 and 1/500. Last year, opening times became slower, and sometimes the mirror stays up after shooting. This problems occur when the weather is cold; at higher temperatures it works fine, which makes me think it's just a problem of old lubrication getting thick.

I've opened the base, front, and top of the camera. On the front and bottom, I can access the curtain and shutter-cocker mechanisms for cleaning and re-lubricating them without disassembling any other part, I think. Now I'm going to remove the two plates, white and brass, with the speed setter. My question is if you think this disassembly will give me enough reach to clean and re-lubricate the timers under it.

I'd like to avoid opening the mechanisms themself, taking apart wheels, cams and levers, cause I don't think I am skilled enough. I have cleaned and repaired some cameras, including my SL66, never involving "clockwork" mechanism disassembly. If necessary I'll take it to a technician, but if I can fix it myself, I'd like to.

Thanks a lot!

 

[ic-racer]

The slow speed escapement comes out as a unit and can be cleaned in alcohol.


Though I don't have a picture of it in this thread.

 

[ic-racer]

Picture here:

Rolleiflex SL35: Near Mint Condition....But....

I picked up this nice Rolleiflex Sl35 with a non-functioning wind lever. I thought it was interesting because, rather than indicating "Made in Germany" or "Made in Singapore," this one has a sticker on it that reads: Assembled in Singapore of parts made in Germany and Singapore

www.photrio.com

 

[Luis Salazar]

Picture here:

Rolleiflex SL35: Near Mint Condition....But....

I picked up this nice Rolleiflex Sl35 with a non-functioning wind lever. I thought it was interesting because, rather than indicating "Made in Germany" or "Made in Singapore," this one has a sticker on it that reads: Assembled in Singapore of parts made in Germany and Singapore

www.photrio.com

Ah, thanks a lot. I will try!

 

[Luis Salazar]

The slow speed escapement comes out as a unit and can be cleaned in alcohol.

This escapement appears in the Rollei Repair Manual as lubricated with grease. Does it aply to the entire piece?, should it be aplied to every spindle? In other pieces it's shown the area to lubricate. Thanks in advance.

 

[ic-racer]

I only use grease at the points of contact between the escapement and the rest of the shutter mechanism

 

[Luis Salazar]

I only use grease at the points of contact between the escapement and the rest of the shutter mechanism

Ok, thanks a lot, and the escapement spindles remains dry or with fine oil?

 

[ic-racer]

Yes light oil on spindles but keep it off the gear teeth