New to Me Minolta Autocord

[Snowfire]

I have a couple. There is a tendency for the shutters to malfunction, especially if not used regularly. But they seem to be fairly simple, reliable cameras. The lens transmits enough UV that they can be used for UV photography. For most, this means that for certain types of film (most notably color negative,) it is advisable to use a skylight or similar filter outdoors.

The light seals can deteriorate with age, but a competent repair shop should be able to fix this if needed.

 

[Evergreen States]

I have a couple questions:
First of all, I got my Autocord last year from Karl Bryan. I'd like to get a lens cap and, while I understand that it takes Rollei Bay 1 accessories, I'm at a loss for a good aftermarket lens cap. Do any of you have specific recommendations?

Secondly, I've shot two rolls so far and, despite taking great care in focusing and using the magnifier each time, most of my shots were either out of focus, blurry from camera shake or both. I think I'd like to get a different focus screen, as I find the stock screen a bit difficult to see in low light. Bryan says that the stock screen is the best but I'd still like to try a different one. What do you think of the Oleson screens? Do you recommend a microprism or matte?

 

[Duceman]

First of all, I got my Autocord last year from Karl Bryan. I'd like to get a lens cap and, while I understand that it takes Rollei Bay 1 accessories, I'm at a loss for a good aftermarket lens cap. Do any of you have specific recommendations?

I'd first contact Karl again. He may have some on hand. He's sold me a few in the past couple of years, albeit they were plastic.

Otherwise, for aftermarket, FotoDiox used to have some in stock, but they appear to be out of stock at the moment. I'd check there from time to time.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I have a couple questions:
First of all, I got my Autocord last year from Karl Bryan. I'd like to get a lens cap and, while I understand that it takes Rollei Bay 1 accessories, I'm at a loss for a good aftermarket lens cap. Do any of you have specific recommendations?

Secondly, I've shot two rolls so far and, despite taking great care in focusing and using the magnifier each time, most of my shots were either out of focus, blurry from camera shake or both. I think I'd like to get a different focus screen, as I find the stock screen a bit difficult to see in low light. Bryan says that the stock screen is the best but I'd still like to try a different one. What do you think of the Oleson screens? Do you recommend a microprism or matte?

The plastic screens from China are usually too small. They don't do a good job of accounting for material shrinkage in injection molding. Look for a Rollei metal lens cap on Ebay. Or plastic Rollei-

Rollei Bay I Plastic Push-On Lens Cap | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rollei Bay I Plastic Push-On Lens Cap at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

FORSTER UK / US TLR Lens Cap Rolleiflex Rolleicord Yashica Rollei Autocord Bay 1 | eBay

This cap will work on all Rolleiflexes that have Bayonet-I mounts on both the lenses. It is also known as B-30 cap.

www.ebay.com

I have some original Autocord metal caps in very good shape. DM. $45

On the screen, I would determine why you are not getting focused images. Do some tripod shots, or table at least. Shoot something at 45 degrees and note where you focused. The Oleson screen will introduce a new element as it is slightly thicker than the Autocord glass so it will need a little shimming. Solve the first problem before adding a new one on top.

Or get the Oleson and figure it all out at once with the final package?

TLRs can be tricky because the camera is floating in space more than most cameras like a 35mm held to the face. One thing to watch for is swaying and moving the camera after focusing and while doing final framing.

 

[Evergreen States]

The plastic screens from China are usually too small. They don't do a good job of accounting for material shrinkage in injection molding. Look for a Rollei metal lens cap on Ebay. Or plastic Rollei-

Rollei Bay I Plastic Push-On Lens Cap | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rollei Bay I Plastic Push-On Lens Cap at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

FORSTER UK / US TLR Lens Cap Rolleiflex Rolleicord Yashica Rollei Autocord Bay 1 | eBay

This cap will work on all Rolleiflexes that have Bayonet-I mounts on both the lenses. It is also known as B-30 cap.

www.ebay.com

I have some original Autocord metal caps in very good shape. DM. $45

Thanks for the tip, Daniel. I just now ordered one of the plastic caps.

On the screen, I would determine why you are not getting focused images. Do some tripod shots, or table at least. Shoot something at 45 degrees and note where you focused. The Oleson screen will introduce a new element as it is slightly thicker than the Autocord glass so it will need a little shimming. Solve the first problem before adding a new one on top.

Or get the Oleson and figure it all out at once with the final package?

TLRs can be tricky because the camera is floating in space more than most cameras like a 35mm held to the face. One thing to watch for is swaying and moving the camera after focusing and while doing final framing.

Doing some testing on a tripod is the obvious thing I should do before spending money on more stuff. So of course I didn't think of it!

Holding the camera straight has proven surprisingly difficult. Getting used to a WLF, I expected yaw to take some getting used to when moving the camera to compose a shot, but it hasn't been too big a problem. Roll has been the tricky axis! Additionally, I believe that depressing the shutter in those first two rolls introduced some motion blur on the yaw axis. After getting it back from Karl for a frame spacing issue, I've been practicing dry firing it to try and get a steady squeeze technique. But as you say, not being able to brace the camera against my face adds an extra challenge. Do y'all brace the camera against your chest or just hold it freely in the hand? Or use a tripod or what?

 

[Dan Daniel]

Do y'all brace the camera against your chest or just hold it freely in the hand? Or use a tripod or what?

First, practice with the viewfinder. When sitting around, just play with it. Get used to the reversal, get used to framing, moving, etc. There comes a point where the confusion disappears but it takes some time and practice. The disorientation of the reversal will throw you off-balance. Practice, and practice.

Holding is personal. For an Autocord, I cradle the bottom in my left hand and use my left index finger for moving the focus lever. I have my right hand with the thumb on the back and the index finger on the body edge front, my basic right hand grip. I fire the shutter with my middle finger, using the pad and first joing, not the tip. Many people use a strap as a stabilizer but I don't use a strap so I don't know their tricks. I like a soft release but it needs to be small to fit. The convex one here is small enough-

2 Pack JJC Camera Soft Shutter Release Button for Fuji Fujifilm X-T3 X-T4 X-T2 X | eBay

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[Evergreen States]

First, practice with the viewfinder. When sitting around, just play with it. Get used to the reversal, get used to framing, moving, etc. There comes a point where the confusion disappears but it takes some time and practice. The disorientation of the reversal will throw you off-balance. Practice, and practice.

Holding is personal. For an Autocord, I cradle the bottom in my left hand and use my left index finger for moving the focus lever. I have my right hand with the thumb on the back and the index finger on the body edge front, my basic right hand grip. I fire the shutter with my middle finger, using the pad and first joing, not the tip. Many people use a strap as a stabilizer but I don't use a strap so I don't know their tricks. I like a soft release but it needs to be small to fit. The convex one here is small enough-

2 Pack JJC Camera Soft Shutter Release Button for Fuji Fujifilm X-T3 X-T4 X-T2 X | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2 Pack JJC Camera Soft Shutter Release Button for Fuji Fujifilm X-T3 X-T4 X-T2 X at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

The soft release sounds like a great idea! I know a lot of people use them on Fuji X cameras because most of them have shutter buttons threaded for a cable release but I never tried one with my X-Pros.

Do you use the magnifier on your Autocord often? If I fouled up the focus on so many shots I made with the magnifier, I shudder to think about what my accuracy would be not using it. But I'm surprised to hear people talk about focusing without one. I don't have perfect vision but I have reliably good vision and it's still unthinkable to me!

 

[250swb]

The simplest and most cost effective way to cut out all the variables is to use a tripod and a cable release, also use some slow film to enjoy the very best quality. But you should then get sharp images. If after that you decide you want a brighter view get an Oleson screen. If after that you want to hand hold again get some faster film and crucially a camera strap only long enough so when it is pulled down tight around your neck you can still see the screen to focus. In other words don't try to hold the camera steady by holding the camera up, but steady it by pulling it down tight on the strap. For this something like a Peak Design strap that can be quickly adjusted is ideal because you'll be able to take into consideration the thickness of clothing and even loosen it fully to sling the camera over your shoulder.

 

[Dan Daniel]

The soft release sounds like a great idea! I know a lot of people use them on Fuji X cameras because most of them have shutter buttons threaded for a cable release but I never tried one with my X-Pros.

Remember that it needs to be 10mm in diameter. Larger will hit the edge of the lens shroud. I'm not certain if the 11mm concave one in the link I provided will fit. I prefer the convex, rolled up top, over the sinking concave, but that's me.

This Match Technical Bip is the best convex one I have used-

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1337933-REG/match_technical_bop_o_l_r_bop_o_soft_shutter_release.html

Do you use the magnifier on your Autocord often? If I fouled up the focus on so many shots I made with the magnifier, I shudder to think about what my accuracy would be not using it. But I'm surprised to hear people talk about focusing without one. I don't have perfect vision but I have reliably good vision and it's still unthinkable to me!

Have you used ground glass for focusing before? It can take some... wait for it.. practice And pay attention to the magnifier. Its height affects its focus point, and combined with your eyes may need to be tilted up or down slightly to fine tune best sharpness. If you wear glasses, this can create problems.

Go back and forth a few times, go in and out of focus where you want focus to be. You get used to looking for 'least blurry' focus, not sharpest?

 

[Nokton48]

When shooting close up I rock back and forth rather than refocusing constantly. Works for me. BTW I have a LOT of printing to do to get caught up with my film shooting. Some nice new ones from the Autocord are coming. It seems to like the old Shanghai 120 film that I loaded up on years ago. And PanF+ and FP4+.

 

[Evergreen States]

You get used to looking for 'least blurry' focus, not sharpest?

THIS is really good advice and might be just what I need to keep my expectations in check. I'd never used ground glass focusing before and was hoping that, with a larger format (the largest format I'd used heretofore was 645), I would get the kind of snap in the viewfinder that I get with my Bronica ETRS, but moreso.

 

[Nokton48]

Minoltaflex XX SRT Flash YG by Nokton48, on Flickr

This is the Minolta SRT Electroflash 1, hooked up to a Minolta Autocord. The Stovepipe is Hasselblad and works perfectly. It's FUN to use, I've been popping off shots, on Eastman XX 5222 120 film. Really enjoying using it, it carries easily and works without fuss. Good for incognito photography.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I just bought a nice Autocord off the big auction site. I had one many years ago and really missed it after I sold it to a college kid. When I got the camera its shutter was froze and the leatherette was falling off, but other than those two things it was in great shape. I fixed the shutter and put a dark brown croc skin on it and now it looks and runs perfect except for one little detail. It's missing the little Chikoyo emblem in the center of the top hood. Does anyone have a spare hood they could pop the emblem off? Mine is the 1958 export version I believe. Here's a picture:

 

[Nokton48]

Minolta Autocord Test Roll 4 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Minolta Autocord Ilford PanF+ Legacy Mic-X straight Replenished Omega DII Omegalite 100mm black Rodagon laser aligned Arista RC #2 Multigrade dev

 

[Nokton48]

Autocord R1 No 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Joes Crab Shack Minolta Autocord wide open 5 sec camera propped up on table ADOX Borax MQ Arista 5x7 #2 Multigrade dev

Unusual to see a Great White Shark in Ohio.

 

[GregY]

Thanks for the tip, Daniel. I just now ordered one of the plastic caps.


Doing some testing on a tripod is the obvious thing I should do before spending money on more stuff. So of course I didn't think of it!

Holding the camera straight has proven surprisingly difficult. Getting used to a WLF, I expected yaw to take some getting used to when moving the camera to compose a shot, but it hasn't been too big a problem. Roll has been the tricky axis! Additionally, I believe that depressing the shutter in those first two rolls introduced some motion blur on the yaw axis. After getting it back from Karl for a frame spacing issue, I've been practicing dry firing it to try and get a steady squeeze technique. But as you say, not being able to brace the camera against my face adds an extra challenge. Do y'all brace the camera against your chest or just hold it freely in the hand? Or use a tripod or what?

ES, I always use a strap on my Rolleiflex & pull the camera down against it. Of course, i'm not sure, as well, how sensitive your shutter button is? I'd certainly try some tripod shots as Dan suggested.

 

[John Wiegerink]

That’s how I was learnedid by a Rollei nut. Works great too.

 

[Nokton48]

CFV16 ELM 80 T Star Pulso Beauty Light HoneyGrids 10 deg 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here I am playing around with my digital CFV16 Hasselblad Back on my motorized EL/M Body, with 80mm Planar at minimum focus distance. Got a Pulso Beauty Light with a HoneyGrids Ten Degree Grid Attachment straight down. A mirror just off camera right to add some kick light. Love shooting digitally with the EL/M it's very fluid and user friendly in every way so far. Printed out the instruction book it covers a lot. Loving it works so well with my Big Lights.

 

[Duceman]

I've noticed that on about 2/3 of my Autocords, the cold shoe is mounted so that the stopping pin is positioned toward the rear of the camera, thus the flash can only be mounted from the front, but will be facing the wrong direction. Of course these cold shoes can be turned around by removing the four little screws. But in the position with the stopping pin towards the rear, I have no flash that can be mounted without being pointed in the wrong direction. Which got me to wondering... was there a flash that came with Autocords that had to be inserted from the front, but still face forward?

 

[John Wiegerink]

I've noticed that on about 2/3 of my Autocords, the cold shoe is mounted so that the stopping pin is positioned toward the rear of the camera, thus the flash can only be mounted from the front, but will be facing the wrong direction. Of course these cold shoes can be turned around by removing the four little screws. But in the position with the stopping pin towards the rear, I have no flash that can be mounted without being pointed in the wrong direction. Which got me to wondering... was there a flash that came with Autocords that had to be inserted from the front, but still face forward?

I'm pretty sure Minolta had a bulb fan flash made for the autocorrect camera. Most camera makers at that time had or offed one. I don't know if Minolta ever made a dedicated electronic flash for the autocorrect or not, but I doubt it.

 

[Nokton48]

I have a couple of Minolta Electroflash 1 strobe units, they were made for the SRT cameras, but work great on my Autocord. BTW I paid around $10 for each on Ebay. Amazingly, with fresh Duracell AA's, they come screaming to life and recycle very quickly. Minolta strobe on Minolta TLR.

CFV16 ELM 80 T Star Pulso Beauty Light HoneyGrids 10 deg 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

 

[250swb]

I have no flash that can be mounted without being pointed in the wrong direction.

It's a cold shoe with no electrical connections, and it's symmetrical other than the pin, so does it matter if the pin stops it going too far back rather than too far forewords?

 

[itsdoable]

It's a cold shoe with no electrical connections, and it's symmetrical other than the pin, so does it matter if the pin stops it going too far back rather than too far forewords?

Except some electronic flashes only go in one way.

 

[250swb]

Except some electronic flashes only go in one way.

So unscrew it and turn it around.

 

[Duceman]

Except some electronic flashes only go in one way.

Precisely.

So unscrew it and turn it around.

Not the point of my question. From my post #119: "Of course these cold shoes can be turned around by removing the four little screws."

My question had to do with why the pins on so many of my Autocords are positioned towards the rear when every flash I've seen would then be pointed in the wrong direction.