New to Me Minolta Autocord

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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Three Autocord HP5+ rolls developed yesterday.
Processed in homebrew ADOX Borax MQ.
Will print and scan the best ones today.

Wow! Negatives look amazing! :smile:
 
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Nokton48

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Ariston

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Nice shots. I'm glad you are enjoying it, but unsure that I want the word to get out on these cameras... :outlaw:
 

guangong

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I had an Autocord in 1060-61. Great lens. Its weak point is the focusing lever, so be gentle and slow when adjusting. Only sold mine when had opportunity to buy Nikon F outfit from Japan at fantastic price. Minolta lenses always top performers but to say they exceed top of line Rollei lenses is exaggeration. Enjoy your Autocord.
 

Ariston

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I had an Autocord in 1060-61. Great lens. Its weak point is the focusing lever, so be gentle and slow when adjusting. Only sold mine when had opportunity to buy Nikon F outfit from Japan at fantastic price. Minolta lenses always top performers but to say they exceed top of line Rollei lenses is exaggeration. Enjoy your Autocord.
That would truly be an exagerration. I have also not seen any images that would convince me the Rollei lenses are better than the Autocord's. Of course, there are many people who can take better photos with a point-and-shoot than I could take with a 4x5.
 

Dan Daniel

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[Anyone interested in an Autocord, drop me a note. I have about a dozen coming through in the next couple of months from a local person who didn't realize how many he had been slowly buying on Ebay over the last year. I'll be overhauling each one, relubing the focus system, clean shutter, focus hood and such, etc.]
 

guangong

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Always put the focus lever back to infinity (or min) when not in use ... or else the next time you open the film back door it will slam into it, thus causing it to break.
A very good point. In some ways focusing with Autocord lever is easier than with my 2.8F knob. Build quality is another matter, never a problem with Rollei during 47 years ownership. Still, Autocord a good buy.
 

Ariston

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A very good point. In some ways focusing with Autocord lever is easier than with my 2.8F knob. Build quality is another matter, never a problem with Rollei during 47 years ownership. Still, Autocord a good buy.
The gentleman that CLA'd mine said that it should be left in the center, where it is less vulnerable. It is interesting to hear differing recommendations.
 

BMbikerider

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The problem of the 'weak spot' focussing lever can largely put down to the lubricating grease in the helical focussing thread running dry and more pressure having to be used to make it move. I bought an absolutely mint Autocord, complete with case, Instruction book, original sales receipt, guarantee card, lens hood and yellow/green filter about a year ago. The focussing lever was stiff, but after being looked at by a competent mechanic who, incidentally worked as a Minolta repair engineer until their demise, the lever can be moved with light pressure from a little finger. It is a superb instrument and a delight to use.

The only thing missing was the lens cap and would be more than pleased to find one.
 

GRHazelton

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Always put the focus lever back to infinity (or min) when not in use ... or else the next time you open the film back door it will slam into it, thus causing it to break.
Interesting. If the back had been hinged at the top the focusing lever might've been less vulnerable. Still, of the three TLRs I own, a YashicaMat 124g, an Ikoflex (I can't keep the model numbers straight!), and my Autocord, the Minolta Autocord is by far my favorite as a user. And the meter on mine still works! Although using it is, frankly, a PITA. I carry a separate meter.
 

dxqcanada

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The gentleman that CLA'd mine said that it should be left in the center, where it is less vulnerable. It is interesting to hear differing recommendations.

I would have to say that gentleman never opened the back when the lever was in the centre position ... that is the most vulnerable position. I've had about five Autocord ... two with broken focus lever.
Once it is bent, the pot metal is compromised ... I broken one just by moving the lever.
 

Ariston

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I would have to say that gentleman never opened the back when the lever was in the centre position ... that is the most vulnerable position. I've had about five Autocord ... two with broken focus lever.
Once it is bent, the pot metal is compromised ... I broken one just by moving the lever.
I will have to pull up the receipt when I have time. I remember checking, and his reputation was quite sterling - he was highly recommended among Autocord owners. And my Autocord operates flawlessly.

I assume he was talking about during storage. I don't know. I've never bent or broken mine. I would just say exercise caution. It is a wonderful camera, so take care of it.
 

eli griggs

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There are good Bay 1 to threaded adapters, as well as adapters for push on filters, but I would buy either with a larger than spec. filter size, to cut down in vignetting, and if the filter reaches into the view field, so what, you can always remove and reattach it as needed.

I will suggest you buy two correct size Bay 1 UV filters, one cool and one warm, as both protection of the lens, even with the OEM metal caps, and for use with either bias.

Be Safe and Be Healthy.
 
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Black Dog

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I finished the focus lever repair and cleaned the lenses and viewfinder. I didn't touch the shutter since everything seemed fine according to my iphone app for shutter speeds. I ordered new covering and mirror.
Here is one from the first roll. I printed an 8x10 just to see if it looks as good as on the monitor and I think it's more impressive. I'm glad I found this post it motivated me to find one and try it out.
View attachment 234524
Lovely picture, I think I'm going to look out for an Autocord as a backup for my Rolleicord.
 
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Nokton48

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(What's on the left edge, showing most clearly in the image above? Most likely a light leak, but also looks like air bells during development but reversed)

Hmmm Not sure what's going on. I also see these "density buildups on left and right edges", in some of my Plaubel Makina 120 roll shots as well.

I'm using a JOBO 120/220 reel in a JOBO 2500 Multitank 5, spun on a Unicolor Uniroller. Maybe the film edges are building up density due to the agitation (maybe too excessive). I'm using ADOX Borax MQ which is a D76 derivative.

Maybe I should switch back to my steel Nikor tanks and SS reels?
 

eli griggs

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It won't hurt to try, changing one thing only at a time, so less force agitation in the tank you're using now (if possible) is step one, then try the ss tank and reels as needed.

IMO.
 

Black Dog

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It won't hurt to try, changing one thing only at a time, so less force agitation in the tank you're using now (if possible) is step one, then try the ss tank and reels as needed.

IMO.
Sound advice-also keep notes to remind yourself of how you did things.
 
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Nokton48

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Grim Tuesday

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Cool idea. The Hassy chimneys are strangely cheap for a Hasselblad accessory, too, and they have a really well corrected magnifier in them compared to some other chimneys and waist levels I've used.
 
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Nokton48

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I've seen photos of some of Penn's cameras, where he just slapped on some gaffer tape to hold it together. I am thinking of the 3M Black Teflon Tape as that is very long life and looks good. The fit is about perfect :smile:
 

Grim Tuesday

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I say go for it! Penn is one of my favorite photographers. There was a wonderful exhibit of him at the San Diego Photography Museum that I just wandered into a few years ago (with my autocord!!) and was just blown away by his artistic eye and his amazing technical ability. His ultra large format stuff really has to be seen in person.
 
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