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I did another roll where I prewashed before developing. I used Kodaks ECN2 Sodium Carbonate recipe. I also did a quicker DWC post wash ( again trying to be touchless in this process ). I had no left over remjet to wipe off. What I notice, the mask is darker ( similar to the very first roll of 50D I did that looked OK ). I really don't know what this Vision 3 film should look like. Using the pre wash, I think the color is much better. One tractor is my DWC post wash, the other is using the ECN2 prewash. The Prewash version is much truer to the original. One the pic of the negatives, the top three are the DWC post wash, the bottom three are the ECN2 pre wash. In both cases I think I will reduce my development time slightly.

The center pic is the pre wash.

View attachment 325520View attachment 325521View attachment 325522

I'd be happy with either result.
 
I did another roll where I prewashed before developing. I used Kodaks ECN2 Sodium Carbonate recipe. I also did a quicker DWC post wash ( again trying to be touchless in this process ). I had no left over remjet to wipe off. What I notice, the mask is darker ( similar to the very first roll of 50D I did that looked OK ). I really don't know what this Vision 3 film should look like. Using the pre wash, I think the color is much better. One tractor is my DWC post wash, the other is using the ECN2 prewash. The Prewash version is much truer to the original. One the pic of the negatives, the top three are the ECN pre wash, the bottom three are the DWC post wash. In both cases I think I will reduce my development time slightly.

The center pic is the pre wash.

The last pic is from a digital camera for comparison. It was a little later in the day, not as bright out.

View attachment 325520View attachment 325521View attachment 325522View attachment 325529

My results from Vision3 200T in C-41 chemistry have a darker than normal C-41 film base, like the top set in your photo. I always pre-wash in baking soda to remove the remjet.
 
@relistan I really like the look of ORWO N75 in XTOL stock! I guess this one being B&W, there is no remjet?

Thanks! Yes, no remjet on the N75. It's just like spooling any bulk roll. The perfs are motion picture perfs, otherwise no difference at all. It's grainy, but the tonality is very nice IMO and you can use the grain to your advantage for certain subjects. The grain is not a big deal in prints from an enlarger.
 
5 inch 2402 PlusX Aerographic 5x7 Norma 500mm TeleXenar HC110 H by Nokton48, on Flickr

Second set of 5x7 2402 Kodak Plus-X Aerographic, loaded into Lisco film holders. Exposed in 5x7 Sinar Norma with Schneider 500mm Tele-Xenar in Compound 5 shutter, freshly overhauled by Mac at Camtronics. Tim Kelly style Broncolor Portrait lighting, exposure at F16 and F22, Developed in Unicolor 8x10 Unidrum, HC-110 "H" dilution 9 1/2 mins at 68F. Unicolor Uniroller spins the Unidrum. I think F16 came out quite well. Need to load some more of this up for additional testing. I like the tonality and the way the Aerographic sees through the Yellow Filter. Will contact print these up as I have time
 
Some shots on Vision3 200T (I have 1000 ft of it) with warming 85a filter:





Night shot, no filter:



These look clean. Good work

Yashica 44, Fuji Eterna 400T

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I have one roll left of this stuff. It was really nice to work with, remjet comes right off, colors pop. I'll miss it.
 
Grabbed my Olympus 35SP and took a walk. Mostly learned my SP now has some light leaks. It's on the shelf for me to re-seal.

250D in my SP set to auto, iso 250

caboose.jpgchurch.jpgLake.jpgpavillion.jpg
 
I just saw "The Fagelmans" streamed to my 75" 4K UHD TV last night. I was disappointed with the colors which I thought were very drab. Whether it was the color grading or maybe the transmission over the cable, I don't know. Did anyone else see it yet? Opinions?
Here's the technical stuff on the filming:

Showing all 9 technical specifications
Runtime 2 hr 31 min (151 min)
Sound Mix Dolby Digital | Dolby Surround 7.1
Color Color
Aspect Ratio 1.85 : 1
Camera Arriflex 16 ST, Panavision Primo Lenses Arriflex 416, Panavision Primo Lenses Panavision Panaflex Millennium XL2, Panavision Primo and PVintage Lenses
Laboratory FotoKem Laboratory, Burbank (CA), USA (film processing) Picture Shop, Los Angeles (CA), USA (digital intermediate)
Negative Format 16 mm (Kodak Vision3 250D 7207, Vision3 500T 7219) (some scenes) 35 mm (Kodak Vision3 50D 5203, Vision3 250D 5207, Vision3 500T 5219) Super 8 (Kodak Vision3 250D 7207, Vision3 500T 7219) (some scenes)
Cinematographic Process Digital Intermediate (4K) (master format) Super 16 (source format) Super 35 (3-perf) (source format) Super 8 (source format) (some scenes)
Printed Film Format D-Cinema
 
Most streaming services (even 4K UHD ones) compressed the bits to death, and none can render the dark or bright scenes very well, let alone fast moving fire and water. I have not watched the "Fablelmans" yet, and would go to the cinema.

I wonder if there is any movie theaters left that still project true 70mm film reels?
 
Another walk by the lake. This time with my FE2 and 50mm 1.4 lens shooting V3 250D. I goofed setting the speed, set one tick under 200 instead of one tick over 200 for iso 250. Still came out OK, no adjustment to developing time.

pic1.jpgpic2.jpgpic3.jpgpic4.jpgpic5.jpg
 
I wonder if there is any movie theaters left that still project true 70mm film reels?

Not many, nor many films shot on 70 mm vs. 35 mm (costs 6-10 times as much just for the materials, plus processing and printing costs at similar ratio and much higher shipping for prints). If there's a 70 mm print made, it's printed up from 35 mm negatives; even if critical scenes are shot in 70 mm most of the footage will be 35 mm -- and there aren't many 70 mm projectors left in service other than IMAX (which IIRC is horizontal travel 65 mm).
 
My experiences with Vision 250D, Olympus OM10. ECN-2 with new 100f QWD kit. Scanned with Plustek 8100 with Silverfast AI

Are you using a specific film profile in Siverfast? I have been trying to make my own, but still seems to need some tweaks.
 
I believe I used Kodak Portra 160 for these. Every photo needed a few minutes of tweaking to get the colors flat. I find most of the Negafix profiles get you close, but not there.

For instance, I have the worst problems with Fuji C200. No profiles and the Fuji ones seem so far off... very blue. I also use the pipette tool on the known white or gray areas to help set the white balance. I use that in combination with the color adjustment circle (forget exact name of the tool) where you can drag it around inside a circle to shift the colors whichever direction you need.
 
I really like the color representation of the 2507 on cloudy days, very accurate.
Kodak 2507, Leica M7 , 35/1.4A
 

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I really like the color representation of the 2507 on cloudy days, very accurate.
Kodak 2507, Leica M7 , 35/1.4A

I've found when 250D works for me it's excellent. But it's been finicky for me roll to roll.
 
I really like the color representation of the 2507 on cloudy days, very accurate.
Kodak 2507, Leica M7 , 35/1.4A

Great environmental portraits.



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