110/16mm Camera Image Quality

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Cholentpot

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Kiev 30, Tri-X

yyfWFa1.jpg
 
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Something's not working right, and the horizontal film scratches are the least of it:
View attachment 280690
Mamiya 16 Super II, Lomography Potsdam 100 developed in Cinestill DF96 monobath. Every single bit is new to me including loading 16 mm film onto a stainless steel reel, the process of slitting film, the emulsion, the developer, and of course the camera.

Great composition... 'Fruit Ninja' vibes. I've seen scratching that prominent on 16mm cine camera film from the transport mechanism. I would suspect the slitting caused the scratching unless the cassettes are especially raggedy.

FPP Sonic 25, 12x17mm

16mm.jpg
 

Cholentpot

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I just got hold of a 16mm stainless reel. Developing news...see some of you in the coming up thread.
 
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Minolta 16ii, Vision3 50D

hchem.jpg crsh.jpg angel.jpg

sharper.jpg

Keep away from cassette felt and oxidizers.

walle.jpg
 
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ciniframe

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Exciting times. Will get my cataract surgery done by end of September and just did a buy it now on a Kiev 30 which will arrive by mid September. The missus did her usual eye roll, ‘another camera!??’ Only a little one I said, told her it’s my treat for finally getting my eyes fixed.
 

Donald Qualls

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From cassettes of FPP sonic 25 & Double-X in the QT. Vision3 negs are drying.

FPP Sonic 25; Xtol stock 6' 22C
qt_fpp25_xtol_0.jpg qt_fpp25_xtol_1.jpg

Double-X; Xtol stock 6' 22C
qt_xx_xtol_1.jpg qt_xx_xtol_0.jpg

I'm at 5 cassettes capacity at the moment (3 original, 2 printed) and think I'll spool them all up with ektachrome next.

16ii, Vision3 50D, #2 close-up filter

yeller.jpg


Decent enough for being taken at arm's length on a windy day

16ii, Vision3 500T

donar.jpg
 
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ciniframe

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Well, my Kiev 30 arrived from Ukraine, only 11 days, faster than expected. Looks ok upon initial inspection. Maybe a bit more crude than a 16II, but not by much. Acid test will be to load a roll of Ilford Pen F which I can do tomorrow. The important thing will be the note pad, one page for each shot so that exposure and other info will be available for future rolls.
Edit; Well, won’t be using it with flash. The flash fires with initial press of shutter button and then with the complete travel of the button the shutter fires. Not worth sending back, I’ll get into it later and try to adjust the position of the flash contacts.
 
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Donald Qualls

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@ciniframe You might also want to be aware that both of my Kiev subminis (a 30 and a 303) required cleaning out rotted black foam light seals -- which as far as I can tell from results after that operation, was superfluous in any case.
 

ciniframe

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Oh I’ll get into the camera at some point, right now testing will be with Eastman Double-X. Got out the bulk loader to slit a roll of the old Ilford Pan F and only 5 inches came out, end of that 100 ft. Still have an unopened bulk roll of same (expired 2009) but it was late and was too tired to load the Alden.
It will be fine for testing, supposed to be overcast this morning. Want to shoot at various distances wide open to check focus marks. Looking forward to going out with only the camera, without the supplemental diopters needed for the 16II, they are very fiddley, hard to keep finger grease off them.
 

Donald Qualls

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Yep, not to mention needing a supplemental lens for infinity focus -- that and frame size are the main reasons I've barely used my 16II since getting my Kiev 30 and 303.
 

Cholentpot

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I'm still in this game. I loaded an Ansco Panorama with some Plus-X single perf. I've yet to shoot the roll though, no opportunity as of yet.

My Kiev is from a pair of cameras. I cobbled it together. The flash doesn't really work on either one that I have.
 

ciniframe

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I’d like to shoot 16mm more but it’s been so dog gone hot. But today looks nice, and some more days are coming with the high in the mid 70’s, just my weather. Noticed that the Minolta cartridges didn’t sit quite flush with the Kiev, even with shifting the push-pull they sit maybe .2 mm above surface. The cover closed without issue though so it should be alright. The cartridge in the camera now has 19 inches of film but I’ll still go to #20 frame. Next roll will be 22-23 inches to get 25 exposures on the roll. That should still give me a proper leader and tail.
Edit; Next observation, shutter button is almost at bottom of travel to release shutter, a bit awkward and makes it more difficult to hold camera steady.
Onward, the day beckons.
 
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Cholentpot

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Just got these back from the lab.

Pentax Auto 110 double exposures and anamorphic "cinemascope" pictures on the same roll.

1: triple exposure
2: double exposure
3: anamorphic compression with Schneider Cinelux ES and SLR Magic Rangefinder

Woah. Anamorphic!

I did it with 16mm once. Threw an anamorphic on a 35mm SLR that had 16mm running through it. It looked great but focusing makes it more or less not worth the work.
 

fabulousrice

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Woah. Anamorphic!

I did it with 16mm once. Threw an anamorphic on a 35mm SLR that had 16mm running through it. It looked great but focusing makes it more or less not worth the work.

Thanks for the compliment! ("Woah" is a great one!)
I use a SLR Magic Rangefinder, and the Pentax Auto 110 is a reflex, so I only shoot the photo is what I see in the viewfinder is tack sharp!
I would only recommend shooting anamorphic this way ("reflex" / WYSIWYG viewfinder). If you were to use a camera that is non-reflex, you could too, but you'd have to make distance markings on the SLR Magic Rangefinder for a few common distances before loading with film. I'm currently thinking about doing this to make a 32 exposures medium format camera :tongue:
 
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I'd buy a Super16 Mintola 16ii faster than you could say 'Sonny Chiba'.

Some saucy Vision3 500T frames.

_sauce1.jpg

_sauce0.jpg
 

Cholentpot

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I just developed 3 rolls of 16mm. It's been a few months. I've started reusing my 'exhausted' developer for the 110/16mm b&w. After running say, D-76 1:1 through two rolls of 35mm or a roll of 120, instead of dumping I put it aside to use immediately for 16mm MP film. Seems to work just fine for me. Makes you wonder...
 
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Finished processing 4 16mm cassettes of Ektachrome 100 from various cameras (and a roll of 35mm half-frame Provia 100F but nevermind) with some interesting results.

First was a load in the Minolta 16ii w/ #0 attachment. I used an old 1st developer (2+ months on the shelf) and a fresh 500mL batch of color developer. The 1st developer seems to hold up fairly well.
e100_0_m16iino0.jpg



Next was a roll from a QT with the 25cm close-up lens. Not wanting to leave anything to chance, I adulterated the 1st developer with about 50mL of D-19... which resulted in uneven development and a color shift.
e100_1_d19adjunct.jpg


The next morning I whipped up a new batch of 1st developer and processed a roll from the MG-s that I had inadvertently fogged by not taping the cap of the receiving chamber, causing it to pop off when removing the cassette from the camera. The result was a comedy of errors with 2 separate light leaks (cassette & edge fog) and missed framing due to a lack of viewfinder when shooting so close.
e100_2_fresh1st.jpg



Last and least of all the final cassette developed with a very strong red cast that was mostly auto-corrected by scanning. This stock seems to have a built-in mechanism to warn you when you chemistry goes out of spec; it was developed less than 30 minutes after the prior load.

e100_rz.jpg


Edit -- Here's a direct positive scan from the last load if anyone wants to try it in their color tool of choice:

Oh and the fifth cassette (a 3D printed one) had the tape fail to adhere to the take-up chamber spindle so the exposure was only mimed.
 
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Here's an analog look at that red-shifted ektachrome. The same strip of film illuminated over white light on the left and cyan light (via cellphone lcd) on the right.

redekta.jpg


Film scanning enthusiasts might avail themselves of an adjustable light source.
 
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