I've had a couple speed graphic boards and a 4x5 negative carrier printed (in PVA) at the local university. Their quality is quite a bit poorer than a speed graphic -> sinar 8x10 adapter I picked up off the 'bay, so be aware the quality of a 3d printed product can vary *greatly* depending on the particular printer, material, and operator. Spiral reels are particularly tricky to print given the tolerances and geometry involved.
I bit the bullet and got a hold of a Morse tank for cine lengths of 16mm a while back but we're hopefully approaching a level of sophistication in 3D printing where new Lomo reels can be minted and the yankee clippers can be retired.
Technically, the film only needs to be in the tank long enough to be developed & stopped. I un-remjet, bleach, and fix 16mm ECN-2 in trays as a matter of necessity. (Damn you, remjet!!!)
[Double-X in Tmax Dev 1+4]
View attachment 277374
Stainless steel reels. for 16mm are easy to load and work great. --jb
Your definition of "easy" and mine are apparently very different. I had one of those and couldn't get film onto it even in the light.
Sometimes the trick to loading steel reels with small film is to turn the film around and load it with the emulsion out. The reverse spring keeps it from collapsing on itself. Little tip for ya......
Indeed! Reloading the same cartridges over and over is risky but what choice do we have. I try to blow out dust and foreign matter from my Minolta cartridges but fine (sometimes very fine) scratches still appear on the base side. In optical enlarging they may or may not show up. All the same, it can be very frustrating. I also shoot Olympus viewfinder Pen’s and Pen F and even with 35mm factory loads you can still get scratches.I had a couple of steel reels and one i could never get to work until i saw that it had something dropped on it and the reel was slightly bent. Problems of 2nd hand reels
I liked shooting 16mm but I would never escape scratches somewhere in process even with a Kiev which is probably easiest of all cameras to reload. In the end i jsut got an ultrawide for a 35mm and composed in centre of frame and slit film afterwards and put it in an enlahead. The cowards way out.
Indeed! Reloading the same cartridges over and over is risky but what choice do we have. I try to blow out dust and foreign matter from my Minolta cartridges but fine (sometimes very fine) scratches still appear on the base side. In optical enlarging they may or may not show up. All the same, it can be very frustrating. I also shoot Olympus viewfinder Pen’s and Pen F and even with 35mm factory loads you can still get scratches.
Yes - this is what I've found also. --jb.Sometimes the trick to loading steel reels with small film is to turn the film around and load it with the emulsion out. The reverse spring keeps it from collapsing on itself. Little tip for ya......
You are talking about 110 cartridges, right? Other than the felt starting to peal all my Minolta 16 cartridges operate fine. The Minolta 16 cameras have pressure plates so film should stay in focus. I've even broken the bridge on one cartridge and the two halves still worked fine.Sometimes the carts just end up wearing out and not working. I have a cart I had to retire because it wouldn't sit well enough to get the film plane in focus. You wouldn't know it until you developed and scanned. This now leaves me with two carts left. a 400 and a 100.
You are talking about 110 cartridges, right? Other than the felt starting to peal all my Minolta 16 cartridges operate fine. The Minolta 16 cameras have pressure plates so film should stay in focus. I've even broken the bridge on one cartridge and the two halves still worked fine.
Also to Patrick James; sounds like a good idea, I'll try it before I load film.
Yes - this is what I've found also. --jb.
I've used this type of reel for 16mm and Minox films for years and never had a problem with the film touching itself. --jb.What is the theory behind the steel reels that have the spiral wire on the bottom and only a few radial wires on the top? What’s the alleged benefit of NOT have spiral wire on both top and bottom, like a 35mm reel? Without matching spirals, the 16mm film just kind of flops around and touches itself — it’s really unsatisfactory IMHO.
Excellent tip!If you want to clean your cassettes, use a Post-It note. The slightly tacky adhesive will grab anything stuck in the felt. Works too on the film gate of a Minox....
I've used this type of reel for 16mm and Minox films for years and never had a problem with the film touching itself. --jb.
Processed a cassette of E100 in the 1st & 2nd dev chemicals I used on the initial roll; mixed 7 days ago.
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There is a very heavy color shift towards red, which I've seen with this stock when using stale developers.
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Very much recoverable in post, however.
Edit:
View attachment 277703
No pun intended.
View attachment 277705
Thin edges indicating not enough re-exposure from some parts of the reel it seems.
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