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Niglyn

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I disassembled the top plate to clean it underneath the buttons, as the camera was sitting in the shed for decades.

I used Zeiss lens wipes and liquid, the same one I use all the time on my Leicas. However, it erased the Zenit logo completely and whatever was white. I’m now careful about the marks for X/M and Reverse, but I’m wondering what solution is best for cleaning body on this camera?

Also, have anyone replaced the leather on their EM? Mine looks quite bad and I don’t think it can be saved, but I can’t find anyone selling the replacement leather for this model.

For models without the light meter in the top, I dunk them in water & washing up liquid. Use cotton buds to get into the crevasses. For models like yours, rather than dunk them, I use cotton buds soaked in washing up liquid & water to carefully clean them. I then carefully dry the top. I have tried furniture polish (type suitable for plastics, not wood wax stuff) this works well & also car polish brings the bodywork up nicely.

Be careful of anything with solvents in them, like lens wipes that probably contain alcohol. They can remove paint.
For the vinyl covering, some peeps do replace it, but to me, this then loses the authenticity of the camera. If the covering is lifting, use a low viscosity impact adhesive like Bostick (Evo stick is too thick) and carefully put a little bit in using a cocktail stick. Don't wait for it to go off, push the coving straight on. Key is to use only a small amount, so it does not ooze out.
 

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Look in the files section for my most excellent guides on Zenits :surprised:)
What files section?

I looked at your postings in this thread, at your profile and at the "resources" of Photrio. To no avail.
 

Niglyn

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What files section?

I looked at your postings in this thread, at your profile and at the "resources" of Photrio. To no avail.

Sorry, yes you are right & I'm confused & got the groups & forums muddled.
Go to Facebook & join 'Zenit Camera Club' In the files section of this group, you will find my most excellent guides there. :surprised:)
 

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@Niglyn Thanks for the quick step-by-step explanation.

1. I'll loose the spring a bit as you pointed.
2. Is there any special kind of foam that I have to purchase, or I can use any thin layer of foam? Can I use something other than a foam? Like an electrical tape for instance? If this old foam break this bad, it will break again.
3. Can someone explain how the shutter button should be positioned before I put the top plate back, so that red dot for rewind aligns with the markings on the plate?

IMG_7191.jpeg


I joined "Zenit Camera Club" Facebook group couple days ago when I stared opening my Zenit, but the request is pending since then. Can you attach or send the link to your Zenit guides? I'm sure they'll be helpful to the rookie like me.
 
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Niglyn

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@Niglyn Thanks for the quick step-by-step explanation.

1. I'll loose the spring a bit as you pointed.
2. Is there any special kind of foam that I have to purchase, or I can use any thin layer of foam? Can I use something other than a foam? Like an electrical tape for instance? If this old foam break this bad, it will break again.
3. Can someone explain how the shutter button should be positioned before I put the top plate back, so that red dot for rewind aligns with the markings on the plate?

View attachment 316345

I joined "Zenit Camera Club" Facebook group couple days ago when I stared opening my Zenit, but the request is pending since then. Can you attach or send the link to your Zenit guides? I'm sure they'll be helpful to the rookie like me.
Hi, have attached foam replacement guide. Any foam will do, ideally open foam type, which squashes far more than dense foam. Clean off all the old goo from the prism with IPA, or your lens wipes. I put aluminium foil between the new foam & the prism.
Normally the shutter button stays in the top when removing, so there should be no issue when refitting. You should see how the cam pushes the rewind mech when turned, so should be able to work out correct alignment. Maybe a little trial & error. When in rewind position, the sprockets that you see when the back is open, that normally turn when you operate the winding lever, should be disengaged and turn freely if rotated with your finger.
 

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Niglyn

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Hi, have attached foam replacement guide. Any foam will do, ideally open foam type, which squashes far more than dense foam. Clean off all the old goo from the prism with IPA, or your lens wipes. I put aluminium foil between the new foam & the prism.
Normally the shutter button stays in the top when removing, so there should be no issue when refitting. You should see how the cam pushes the rewind mech when turned, so should be able to work out correct alignment. Maybe a little trial & error. When in rewind position, the sprockets that you see when the back is open, that normally turn when you operate the winding lever, should be disengaged and turn freely if rotated with your finger.
Top removal guide. A bit late now :surprised:) but maybe useful.
 

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hiroh

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@Niglyn Thanks for the guides! I appreciate that you made those and willing to share it to the world!

Since I don't have EPDM sheet, do you think I can use black gaff tape instead?

I think everyhing is pretty much clear except that shutter button position. In both your guide and the OP photos, there's a photo with the shutter button with the plate, and the next one is without the plate and without the shutter button. So I don't know how she shutter button was positioned before removing the plate. When I put it back arbitrarily, the shutter itself works when I press the button, but the red dot and rewind markings are totally misaligned. I'll play with it more today, but it is all arbitrarily, I don't see the exact position for the button.
 
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Niglyn

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@Niglyn Thanks for the guides! I appreciate that you made those and willing to share it to the world!

Since I don't have EPDM sheet, do you think I can use black gaff tape instead?

I think everyhing is pretty much clear except that shutter button position. In both your guide and the OP photos, there's a photo with the shutter button with the plate, and the next one is without the plate and without the shutter button. So I don't know how she shutter button was positioned before removing the plate. When I put it back arbitrarily, the shutter itself works when I press the button, but the red dot and rewind markings are totally misaligned. I'll play with it more today, but it is all arbitrarily, I don't see the exact position for the button.

The three red dots should all be aligned and to the right of the R & arrow marking for normal operation, viewed from behind the camera.
To rewind, twist the outer collar so the red dot aligns with 'R' . The sprockets inside the camera back should disengage and you should be able to turn them by hand, to confirm you have the rewind knob installed correctly. Normally the sprockets are locked to the film advance mech when winding on & have to be released to allow the film to rewind.

Search tinterweb for zenit em manual.
 

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I assembled it, and it seems everything works fine. I'm loading the film tomorrow to test for light leaks, focus and light meter.
 
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Niglyn

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I assembled it, and it seems everything works fine. I'm loading the film tomorrow to test for light leaks, focus and light meter.

Best to do a light leak test without film first, as detailed in my guide. May save a roll of film. Biggest source of light leaks is through the lightmeter window into the top of the camera, which then gets into the prism & mirror box. Many Zenits had a lump of foam to the side of the prism to block light, but due to my phobia of foam touching the prism, I make a card baffle.

Light gets in from the viewfinder via the prism into the mirror box. This is true of all SLRs, but the more light that can be blocked, the better. Older cameras were better at this, the latest plastic topped ETs were by far the worst for both build quality & light leaks.
 

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hiroh

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Hey Niglyn, I see that the leak test is in the separate document as noted here: "See separate document how to test for and locate light leaks, which can be found in the files section of Facebook in The Zenit Camera Club group."
 

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Hey Niglyn, I see that the leak test is in the separate document as noted here: "See separate document how to test for and locate light leaks, which can be found in the files section of Facebook in The Zenit Camera Club group."

Hi, the foam replacement & light leaks files got a bit merged and muddled and really should be combined into one document, which I may do over winter. I also found better methods of light sealing (using 1mm & 1.5mm EPDM foam).
 

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hiroh

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I'm shooting my test roll, and it happened to me twice that I accidentally turn rewind knob, so I cannot advance the film. First time, I was fiddling for a few moments, trying to rewind it couple times until I figured out that the rewind knob is almost turned to "R". I also accidentally turned counter wheel, so I have no idea how many shots was left.

Is there anything I can do to make it harder to turn these two accidentally?

I never shot with Zenit before, and I'm not sure if this is how it works, or I did something wrong when assembling it.
 

hiroh

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Everything looks good! No light leaks. Except that I lost two shots because I accidentaly turned to rewind and then advanced, or I don't know exactly what I did.

Shutter speed — I recorded a 240fps slo-mo video for every shutter speed from 1/30 to 1/500 with my iPhone. Then I playback the video frame by frame, and every shot has the same speed!? 1/30s took around 20 frames instead of 8, and 1/500s took also around 20 frames, but it should be almost invisible in 240fps clip. It seems that the shutter is broken or out of calibration. But then, how's that my photos that I took yesterday are sharp (not blurry, even though I shot fast moving kite-surfers and kids) and properly exposed? Hmmmm...

Light meter — Also, I think my light meter doesn't work. It could be that the photo cell is dead. It reacts to the light but the needle is not moving all the way as it should be, but maybe 1/3 when going from the bright sun to the total dark. Although I'm not using the light meter, it's good to have one in a working condition.
 
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Niglyn

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Everything looks good! No light leaks. Except that I lost two shots because I accidentaly turned to rewind and then advanced, or I don't know exactly what I did.

Light meter — Also, I think my light meter doesn't work. It could be that the photo cell is dead. It reacts to the light but the needle is not moving all the way as it should be, but maybe 1/3 when going from the bright sun to the total dark. Although I'm not using the light meter, it's good to have one in a working condition.

Hi,
Do you have a modern DSLR that you could repeat your shutter test on? It could be a problem with your method & not the camera.
What was you using to set the exposure if you were not using the Zenit light meter?

Did the photos come out ok? If the camera exposure is correctly set for 1/500s and a faulty camera is giving 1/30s which would be four stops over exposure, the photo would be totally blown out if it were giving 1/30s when you set it to 1/500s

As far as I am aware, there is only one company that repair Zenits, can't remember the name, it is in east europe somewhere. They list Zenits for sale, but the cost for them to repair would be prohibitive. A working Zenit can be purchased for less than £5 on Ebay.

You may find a local camera repair company that would test the speeds for you, but unlikely they would repair it.

Zenit shutter speeds are not very accurate to start with. They have a close enough is good enough mentality. Even with either a 'new in box' Zenit (I have a few of these in my collection), a heavily used, or one that I have CLAed, the shutter speeds vary from shot to shot. Even the service manual suggests getting 1/30 and 1/500 the best you can & the others will be close enough. You may get one shutter firing spot on & the next is 1/2 stop out. It only works on spring tension, which you tension when winding on & then it unwinds when you press the shutter.

I made a camera shutter tester. Details are on here somewhere. To adjust the shutter is a nightmare. The normal cause of erratic shutter speeds is the old grease on the shutter rollers gumming up. The only way to repair is to remove the shutter mech and mirror lift assist spring, clean and relubricate. I have done this on a number of cameras, but it takes days and requires almost the whole camera to be disassembled to get the shutter mech out.

To adjust the shutter, I had to make two special tools to hold the locking nuts on the rollers & mirror lift spring. They actually look like cogs but have circular teeth, so a spanner cannot be used. Trying to do it with long nose pliers really does not work, as it is too easy to release all of the tension and then you have to start all over again.

For the light meter. If the needle moves, sounds like it is working ok. I have found amongst my collection all the light meters (that worked) were as accurate as a Zenit can be.

The Zenit meters do not work in low light, so will struggle in twilight or indoors. Best to compare with a modern camera outside and also to use the 'sunny 16' rule. - Set the ISO to 100 and on a bright sunny summer day, the light meter should give a reading of 1/125s at f/16.

The light meter is easy to adjust. Remove the small brass screw that you will see when looking at the front of the camera, on the right. Carefully insert a small non-metallic screwdriver, which should engage with the potentiometer inside. You can now adjust the light meter.

Please post some photos on here, also the negatives, which can often be better for highlighting faults. Also give camera settings. Did you develop the film & photos yourself or get it professionally done. Often, automated printing machines will adjust the brightness of each photo, to compensate for what it thinks is too bright or dark. Colour print film has a very wide latitude for over/under exposure. This is why instamatic cameras work so well.
 

hiroh

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@Niglyn, I just recorded it with my Leica SL2 in 180fps. Same thing. Approx the same number of frames for 1/30 and 1/500. Still not sure how this is possible. I remember I shot 1/250 at f8-f11 yesterday, and the photos turned out ok. It might be that, if the shutter is broken, they would turn the same with 1/30 and 1/500s. I didn't test it, but I might try. I'm curious now.

Here's the video (1/30s starts at 1:25min, and then I shot 1/60, /125, 1/250 and 1/500.



Btw, out of curiosity, I opened the camera again to see if there's something stuck that prevents needle from moving further. There was nothing particularly, but I rearranged the cables, shaked and knocked the meter few times, and now the needle goes more than before. I will test the accuracy, but this looks more correct than previously where the needle wouldn't go further than 1/3 of the whole range.

I haven't developed or scanned photos yet, but I develop b&w film myself.
 

Niglyn

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@Niglyn, I just recorded it with my Leica SL2 in 180fps. Same thing. Approx the same number of frames for 1/30 and 1/500. Still not sure how this is possible. I remember I shot 1/250 at f8-f11 yesterday, and the photos turned out ok. It might be that, if the shutter is broken, they would turn the same with 1/30 and 1/500s. I didn't test it, but I might try. I'm curious now.

Here's the video (1/30s starts at 1:25min, and then I shot 1/60, /125, 1/250 and 1/500.



Btw, out of curiosity, I opened the camera again to see if there's something stuck that prevents needle from moving further. There was nothing particularly, but I rearranged the cables, shaked and knocked the meter few times, and now the needle goes more than before. I will test the accuracy, but this looks more correct than previously where the needle wouldn't go further than 1/3 of the whole range.

I haven't developed or scanned photos yet, but I develop b&w film myself.

Ah, I think I see the confusion.
'Shutter Speed' is a misnomer. The shutter always moves at the same speed. The shutter is in fact made up of two curtains, front and back.

Based on a Zenit and viewed from the back, both curtains start on the right-hand side, when the shutter is cocked.
When the shutter is pressed with a setting of 1/30s, the first curtain shoots across the frame opening (called the gate) and exposes the whole frame to light.This is the sync speed. Should a flash be used, it would fire and illuminate the whole frame.

Now, once the first curtain has travelled all the way from right to left and the frame exposed, the second curtain now travels from right to left, to cover the gate, which of course stops light getting to the film negative.

Now, if we double the 'speed' to 1/60s. When the shutter is pressed, the first curtain begins its journey from right to left, to uncover the gate & expose the film, but now, the second curtain is released and starts to move across the gate when the first curtain has travelled only half-way across the gate.

So, at speeds above sync speed, the whole frame is never completely exposed at the same time, only a section of it, as the two shutter curtains move across the gate, forming a slot for the light to pass through. Should a flash be used at higher than sync speed, only a portion of the film would be exposed to the flash.

Moving to 1/125s, the second curtain begins to close when the first curtain has opened only 1/4 of the way.
1/250, the second curtain now starts to close when the first curtain has opened 1/8 of the way. Ans so forth.

The important fact here is that the shutter curtains ALWAYS move at the same speed, regardless of 'shutter speed'. Exposure is controlled by when the second curtain starts to close, in relation to the first curtain opening.


Both the first curtain (which opens to start the exposure) and second curtain (which follows the first to end the exposure) must be balanced and move at the same speed. Should the first curtain be a bit sluggish, and the second curtain be running correctly, this will cause uneven exposure from right to left across the frame. At higher 'speeds' the second curtain will catch up to the first, before it has fully travelled across the gate, causing the last part of the frame not to be exposed.

There are examples of this fault on the facebook groups.

Have a look on the youtube for 'focal plane shutters' there are a number of slow-motion videos that demonstrate what I have tried to explain above.

You could also repeat your leica filming, but do this from the back of the camera, with the back door open.
When winding on, you should see both curtains being rewound onto the left side of the camera. They will be slightly overlapping (to block light).
As your leica allows high speed video, hopefully it will allow slow-motion, so you can slow the video down to study how the shutter curtains behave at different 'speeds'

With a test roll of film, find a subject that will give 1/30s at f/11. Use a light meter on a known good camera to verify exposure.
Take a photo, then move though all of speeds, so
1/30 f/11
1/60 f8
1/125 f/5.6
1/250 f/4
1/500 f/2.8

For every photo above, the exposure will be the same, only depth of field will vary. So, the negatives should all show the same density. This will confirm that the shutter speeds are changing and that they are within acceptable tolerance.

The shutter mech in a Zenit, is from Leica origins, stolen by the ruskies after the second world war. So, if it was good enough for leica, certainly good enough for Zenits. Millions of these cameras were made, so no doubt hundreds of millions of photos taken. The shutter 'speed' does vary from shot to shot & they are not as accurate or consistent as a more modern design SLR, but they still churn out good photographs & are fun to use. Colour film has a wide latitude for exposure & using a compensating developer for B&W will reduce blown out highlights.
 

asteksonus

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Spare parts for old Zenits

I just repaired an old Zenit B and ended up with one perfect camera and one Junked as a donor. I am just wondering if there is a better way.

Here I am mainly talking about screws, washers and the very thin brass bearing washers (most hard to replace). Larger parts must be sourced from a 'donor' camera I guess.

From my experience the main issues are always:
a) repairing shutter curtains so they close exactly
b) finding the small part that 'jumps' out of your repair tray and then prevents you completing full repair.


I think I can source precision screws from:
https://www.accu.co.uk/13-cheese-head-screws?page=1

I have used this company for some of my larger scale projects and they are very good on quality and delivery.

The main problem comes when sourcing the specialized bearing and shim washers.

Do you have any knowledge if a stock of such things exist anywhere - all those nimble fingered Russian ladies assembling these things must have had a huge parts bin.


Just as a business idea - I would be great to package sets for repair. Screws and washers of different sizes and types are always needed for a single job.
 

4season

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Do you have any knowledge if a stock of such things exist anywhere - all those nimble fingered Russian ladies assembling these things must have had a huge parts bin.
Surprisingly, Zenit repair kits did exist, but to date I have only seen one listed on eBay, and that was some time ago:
Zemit 12XP Repair Kit.jpg

Aside from the photo, I don't recall the seller providing any other details, such as what the box contained. But if I had to guess, I'd expect that shutter curtain assemblies would be #1.
 

asteksonus

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😀 Thanks - I'll make a point to hunt these down. But I think I'll wait until the Russia situation cools down! I'm on a mission as my original Zenit was a gift from my grandfather I want to restore it perfectly. It always surprised me how good the pictures were from this camera.
 

Niglyn

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Spare parts for old Zenits

I just repaired an old Zenit B and ended up with one perfect camera and one Junked as a donor. I am just wondering if there is a better way.


Do you have any knowledge if a stock of such things exist anywhere - all those nimble fingered Russian ladies assembling these things must have had a huge parts bin.

Hi,

Alas, I know of no better way than to cannibalise other cameras to get spares to repair Zenits.

I really don't like killing a Zenit, but at least it can be used to repair one or more others. I have a 12XP which every useable part has been used, prism, shutter mech, meter, dials etc. have been used to repair other cameras.

There was one guy in Russia who had some new spares, including curtain springs, but most were second hand. His prices were steep & also postage costs made purchase prohibitive. He has now shut down and moved from Russia.

I have seen these old cardboard boxes of Zeint spares on Ebay, but the contents are not disclosed & they were listed at silly expensive prices, so not worth the gamble.

The Zenit factories have long been demolished & I cringe when I think of all those parts that most likely got bulldozed into landfill. At the timethese parts were less than worthless.

The number one fault with Zenits, is the 'Zenit crack' in the viewfinder. This is caused by the rotting foam which etches into the prism silvering. This is why I post at every opportunity, warning of this & asking peeps to change it. There is a company in the UK who can re-silver camera prisms (they also do telescopes etc) but whist their prices are not unreasonable, still far higher than the value of a working Zenit.

Next is just old grease gumming up the works. This is on the shutter springs (found inside the rollers) and the mirror assist spring. This requires a full strip down to access, which requires some skill. Even more skill is required to reassemble everything correctly, assuring everything is aligned. I had to make special tools to tension the shutter & mirror springs & an electronic shutter tester to then set the speeds correctly.

Next up is a failed galvanometer (light meter) the little wires that connect to the moving coil snap. I have tried to re-solder them, but have never had any success. A shutter with holes in is also sometimes found. I had an otherwise perfect camera with a tiny pin hole in the shutter curtain. I think somebody had pointed the camera directly at the sun. Also have had the rubber lining degrade & peel off.

Then we have the strange and weird faults. I bought a mint 12XP, but the LEDs were really dim, making the light-meter unusable. I thought it was my fault when reassembling after foam change (have I mentioned prism foam must be changed on ALL Zenit cameras). On top of the two LEDs is a small metal plate with two pin holes in it. Idea is to let just a tad of light out, else it would be too bright in the viewfinder. On removing this metal plate, I found it is held in place by double sided tape, but who ever had fitted it, had negated to remove one side of the backing paper. Despite attempts, I was unable to ascertain the history of the camera, I'm wondering if it was purchased, was unusable, so sat in the cupboard for 30+ years.

I have purchased a few 'new' or mint cameras that would never have worked from new. These were imports or purchased from outside the UK, as every official UK Zenit was fully disassembled and rebuilt by the importers, before sale in the UK. For example, I bought a boxed mint Belomo plastic topped ET from what looked like a junk shop in the Ukraine. A bit more than I would usually pay. What turned up was one of the limited-edition ETs with the silver/grey/green top. (It looks different colours depending on the light) I was well happy :surprised:) However it did not work. The mirror lift mech was out of alignment, so never lifted. I'm guessing the original owner, after a first failed film, put it back in the box & never used it again. I got a mint 122, which found it's way into the UK but again could never have worked due toa few faults. Both cameras were an easy fixes for me.
 

asteksonus

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Hi,

Alas, I know of no better way than to cannibalise other cameras to get spares to repair Zenits.

I really don't like killing a Zenit, but at least it can be used to repair one or more others. I have a 12XP which every useable part has been used, prism, shutter mech, meter, dials etc. have been used to repair other cameras.

There was one guy in Russia who had some new spares, including curtain springs, but most were second hand. His prices were steep & also postage costs made purchase prohibitive. He has now shut down and moved from Russia.

I have seen these old cardboard boxes of Zeint spares on Ebay, but the contents are not disclosed & they were listed at silly expensive prices, so not worth the gamble.

The Zenit factories have long been demolished & I cringe when I think of all those parts that most likely got bulldozed into landfill. At the timethese parts were less than worthless.

The number one fault with Zenits, is the 'Zenit crack' in the viewfinder. This is caused by the rotting foam which etches into the prism silvering. This is why I post at every opportunity, warning of this & asking peeps to change it. There is a company in the UK who can re-silver camera prisms (they also do telescopes etc) but whist their prices are not unreasonable, still far higher than the value of a working Zenit.

Next is just old grease gumming up the works. This is on the shutter springs (found inside the rollers) and the mirror assist spring. This requires a full strip down to access, which requires some skill. Even more skill is required to reassemble everything correctly, assuring everything is aligned. I had to make special tools to tension the shutter & mirror springs & an electronic shutter tester to then set the speeds correctly.

Next up is a failed galvanometer (light meter) the little wires that connect to the moving coil snap. I have tried to re-solder them, but have never had any success. A shutter with holes in is also sometimes found. I had an otherwise perfect camera with a tiny pin hole in the shutter curtain. I think somebody had pointed the camera directly at the sun. Also have had the rubber lining degrade & peel off.

Then we have the strange and weird faults. I bought a mint 12XP, but the LEDs were really dim, making the light-meter unusable. I thought it was my fault when reassembling after foam change (have I mentioned prism foam must be changed on ALL Zenit cameras). On top of the two LEDs is a small metal plate with two pin holes in it. Idea is to let just a tad of light out, else it would be too bright in the viewfinder. On removing this metal plate, I found it is held in place by double sided tape, but who ever had fitted it, had negated to remove one side of the backing paper. Despite attempts, I was unable to ascertain the history of the camera, I'm wondering if it was purchased, was unusable, so sat in the cupboard for 30+ years.

I have purchased a few 'new' or mint cameras that would never have worked from new. These were imports or purchased from outside the UK, as every official UK Zenit was fully disassembled and rebuilt by the importers, before sale in the UK. For example, I bought a boxed mint Belomo plastic topped ET from what looked like a junk shop in the Ukraine. A bit more than I would usually pay. What turned up was one of the limited-edition ETs with the silver/grey/green top. (It looks different colours depending on the light) I was well happy :surprised:) However it did not work. The mirror lift mech was out of alignment, so never lifted. I'm guessing the original owner, after a first failed film, put it back in the box & never used it again. I got a mint 122, which found it's way into the UK but again could never have worked due toa few faults. Both cameras were an easy fixes for me.
 

asteksonus

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
Format
35mm
True - I do have a small case of prism rot on one Zenit. But it is nowhere near a bother - just a small line in the viewfinder and I'm sure I can fix it with your method if needed. I have already removed all the nasty foamy stuff. I was thinking to pack the prism clasp with felt rather than foam - I have a stock of felt that I use for door light seals. Any advice on that?

My main job to do is to remove and replace one tensioning spring or - failing that - to get a whole replacement shutter assembly rebuilt and installed.

Unfortunately, most of my issues are self-inflicted. I have made almost all the mistakes when dismantling and reassembly - but I can say now that I understand how this tricky device works. In that respect a Zenit is the perfect project to learn about the insides of a Leica derived shutter.

Where I got into problems was that the shutter curtain and ribbons needed to be re-glued. After that it worked mechanically but had a small light gap when winding on. After that, I took the shutter out countless times to re-glue it and to adjust the tension on the drums. This all ended up with mashing up one of the locking cogs and dislodging a tensioning spring. (BTW - your special tool to adjust the cogs sounds like a great idea and would have helped.)

But by far - the most frustrating thing are those tiny brass washers that form a thrust bearing between the spindles and the body casting. They stick to the body or drop into the mechanism - however carefully you try to pull the shutter out of the body. Then being brass they don't stick to the magnetic screwdriver to retrieve them to wherever they have found themselves. I am willing to bet a lot of people don't even know if they are actually installed and I'm sure it would work quite well even without them - but it irks me to leave them out.

I don't try to attempt electrics on Zenits. It is not that I am intimidated by it - I gladly attack my automatic processor SLRs (I started professionally with microprocessors many generations ago) - Although I did solder up and repaired (quite nicely) the sync contact track where it was broken by turning too far past the X / M marks.

My approach to Zenits is 'less is more'. I will always go for a basic Zenit B over any more complicated models: no battery, no corrosion, no redundant components. In the same way as you would be able to point and shoot a Leica M3 without metering if you know where you are light-wise - the same applies to a Zenit B. Even if these products are at opposite ends of the quality spectrum they are equally robust in this regard.

If you need a meter - it is far easier these days to get the figures from your iPhone app.
 

Niglyn

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
423
Location
Surrey, UK
Format
Analog
Hi Asteksonus,

I had to take a number of cameras apart and stop at different stages, to work out how to put back together the first one I had dismantled :surprised:)
The little shim washers can appear in different places or not at all, sometimes more than one in one place. I think it just depended on if the builders could be bothered to fit them or not & if a few were stuck together, they went in like that :surprised:)
There are a number of shim washers that live under the TTL, 12xP & 122 wiper plate for the shutter speed. It is important that the same number go back here.

Glueing the ribbon or shutter onto the thinner rollers is no issue. They should be glued one complete turn and just back onto itself, ensuring the rollers are 90 degrees to the ribbon/curtain. However, the larger drum, with shutter curtain in the middle and ribbon on the outside is a different matter. This is where the shutter mech is indexed from & must be glued with total precision.

My method, providing the curtain/ribbons have not yet come un-glued. Normally, they have started to un-glue on the inner side, not the end (if you see what I mean. So, I peel back a little and re-glue using rubber solution glue (bike tyre repair stuff) Once set, I peel off the end of the ribbons, back to the new glue, then re-glue and ensure, as per the other side, the ribbon goes all the way around the drum and just back onto itself. This is then repeated for the curtain.

If the drum side has already let go, then a shutter jig is needed. Using a set of shutters from a camera that has not failed (and re-glueing as above), this can be laid out on a piece of wood. With the drum held in an indexed position (I use the cross-drilled hole) and clamped to stop it moving, the positions of the curtains can be marked. I made little clams to hold them there. Then the ends can be re-glued in the correct position onto the drum.

The tensions on the two drums and that of the mirror assist spring set the shutter speed, so without an accurate way to set these, there is no way to set the shutter speed. I have posted details of my shutter tester on the Zenit Camera Club facebook page. It is just an Arduino with two IR sensors & receivers, which measure each shutter curtain, which must be travelling at the same speed, else uneven exposure will occur. The two shutter tensions are not indexed, so a single sensor would give a speed, but not the speed difference between one side of the shutter travel & the other. It is a juggling act to get the curtains both travelling at the same speed and maintain an accurate shutter speed.

Below is a photo of the ribbons on the drum being re-glued. Only the top one came off & got chewed in the cog (a tear can be seen on it, to the right. As the bottom ribbon had not come off, indexing was not lost, so I just taped the curtain to my tray (I always work in a lipped tray, so as not to lose bits) and used some masking tape to make sure inner & outer drum stayed correctly aligned.
 

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asteksonus

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
Format
35mm
Hi Asteksonus,

I had to take a number of cameras apart and stop at different stages, to work out how to put back together the first one I had dismantled :surprised:)
The little shim washers can appear in different places or not at all, sometimes more than one in one place. I think it just depended on if the builders could be bothered to fit them or not & if a few were stuck together, they went in like that :surprised:)
There are a number of shim washers that live under the TTL, 12xP & 122 wiper plate for the shutter speed. It is important that the same number go back here.

Glueing the ribbon or shutter onto the thinner rollers is no issue. They should be glued one complete turn and just back onto itself, ensuring the rollers are 90 degrees to the ribbon/curtain. However, the larger drum, with shutter curtain in the middle and ribbon on the outside is a different matter. This is where the shutter mech is indexed from & must be glued with total precision.

My method, providing the curtain/ribbons have not yet come un-glued. Normally, they have started to un-glue on the inner side, not the end (if you see what I mean. So, I peel back a little and re-glue using rubber solution glue (bike tyre repair stuff) Once set, I peel off the end of the ribbons, back to the new glue, then re-glue and ensure, as per the other side, the ribbon goes all the way around the drum and just back onto itself. This is then repeated for the curtain.

If the drum side has already let go, then a shutter jig is needed. Using a set of shutters from a camera that has not failed (and re-glueing as above), this can be laid out on a piece of wood. With the drum held in an indexed position (I use the cross-drilled hole) and clamped to stop it moving, the positions of the curtains can be marked. I made little clams to hold them there. Then the ends can be re-glued in the correct position onto the drum.

The tensions on the two drums and that of the mirror assist spring set the shutter speed, so without an accurate way to set these, there is no way to set the shutter speed. I have posted details of my shutter tester on the Zenit Camera Club facebook page. It is just an Arduino with two IR sensors & receivers, which measure each shutter curtain, which must be travelling at the same speed, else uneven exposure will occur. The two shutter tensions are not indexed, so a single sensor would give a speed, but not the speed difference between one side of the shutter travel & the other. It is a juggling act to get the curtains both travelling at the same speed and maintain an accurate shutter speed.

Below is a photo of the ribbons on the drum being re-glued. Only the top one came off & got chewed in the cog (a tear can be seen on it, to the right. As the bottom ribbon had not come off, indexing was not lost, so I just taped the curtain to my tray (I always work in a lipped tray, so as not to lose bits) and used some masking tape to make sure inner & outer drum stayed correctly aligned.
Thanks for all the useful information - my next step is the to get a 'for parts' donor then go on from there. But in the mean time I will be having fun with my newly restored good Zenit B with a few rolls of B/W and Canon AE-1 with some Colour stock. (If you are interested I can tell you how to replace the control wire to the resistor bock on that one - a very challenging fix).
 
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