I disassembled the top plate to clean it underneath the buttons, as the camera was sitting in the shed for decades.
I used Zeiss lens wipes and liquid, the same one I use all the time on my Leicas. However, it erased the Zenit logo completely and whatever was white. I’m now careful about the marks for X/M and Reverse, but I’m wondering what solution is best for cleaning body on this camera?
Also, have anyone replaced the leather on their EM? Mine looks quite bad and I don’t think it can be saved, but I can’t find anyone selling the replacement leather for this model.
What files section?Look in the files section for my most excellent guides on Zenits)
What files section?
I looked at your postings in this thread, at your profile and at the "resources" of Photrio. To no avail.
Hi, have attached foam replacement guide. Any foam will do, ideally open foam type, which squashes far more than dense foam. Clean off all the old goo from the prism with IPA, or your lens wipes. I put aluminium foil between the new foam & the prism.@Niglyn Thanks for the quick step-by-step explanation.
1. I'll loose the spring a bit as you pointed.
2. Is there any special kind of foam that I have to purchase, or I can use any thin layer of foam? Can I use something other than a foam? Like an electrical tape for instance? If this old foam break this bad, it will break again.
3. Can someone explain how the shutter button should be positioned before I put the top plate back, so that red dot for rewind aligns with the markings on the plate?
View attachment 316345
I joined "Zenit Camera Club" Facebook group couple days ago when I stared opening my Zenit, but the request is pending since then. Can you attach or send the link to your Zenit guides? I'm sure they'll be helpful to the rookie like me.
Top removal guide. A bit late nowHi, have attached foam replacement guide. Any foam will do, ideally open foam type, which squashes far more than dense foam. Clean off all the old goo from the prism with IPA, or your lens wipes. I put aluminium foil between the new foam & the prism.
Normally the shutter button stays in the top when removing, so there should be no issue when refitting. You should see how the cam pushes the rewind mech when turned, so should be able to work out correct alignment. Maybe a little trial & error. When in rewind position, the sprockets that you see when the back is open, that normally turn when you operate the winding lever, should be disengaged and turn freely if rotated with your finger.
@Niglyn Thanks for the guides! I appreciate that you made those and willing to share it to the world!
Since I don't have EPDM sheet, do you think I can use black gaff tape instead?
I think everyhing is pretty much clear except that shutter button position. In both your guide and the OP photos, there's a photo with the shutter button with the plate, and the next one is without the plate and without the shutter button. So I don't know how she shutter button was positioned before removing the plate. When I put it back arbitrarily, the shutter itself works when I press the button, but the red dot and rewind markings are totally misaligned. I'll play with it more today, but it is all arbitrarily, I don't see the exact position for the button.
I assembled it, and it seems everything works fine. I'm loading the film tomorrow to test for light leaks, focus and light meter.
Hey Niglyn, I see that the leak test is in the separate document as noted here: "See separate document how to test for and locate light leaks, which can be found in the files section of Facebook in The Zenit Camera Club group."
Everything looks good! No light leaks. Except that I lost two shots because I accidentaly turned to rewind and then advanced, or I don't know exactly what I did.
Light meter — Also, I think my light meter doesn't work. It could be that the photo cell is dead. It reacts to the light but the needle is not moving all the way as it should be, but maybe 1/3 when going from the bright sun to the total dark. Although I'm not using the light meter, it's good to have one in a working condition.
Ah, I think I see the confusion.@Niglyn, I just recorded it with my Leica SL2 in 180fps. Same thing. Approx the same number of frames for 1/30 and 1/500. Still not sure how this is possible. I remember I shot 1/250 at f8-f11 yesterday, and the photos turned out ok. It might be that, if the shutter is broken, they would turn the same with 1/30 and 1/500s. I didn't test it, but I might try. I'm curious now.
Here's the video (1/30s starts at 1:25min, and then I shot 1/60, /125, 1/250 and 1/500.
Btw, out of curiosity, I opened the camera again to see if there's something stuck that prevents needle from moving further. There was nothing particularly, but I rearranged the cables, shaked and knocked the meter few times, and now the needle goes more than before. I will test the accuracy, but this looks more correct than previously where the needle wouldn't go further than 1/3 of the whole range.
I haven't developed or scanned photos yet, but I develop b&w film myself.
Surprisingly, Zenit repair kits did exist, but to date I have only seen one listed on eBay, and that was some time ago:Do you have any knowledge if a stock of such things exist anywhere - all those nimble fingered Russian ladies assembling these things must have had a huge parts bin.
Spare parts for old Zenits
I just repaired an old Zenit B and ended up with one perfect camera and one Junked as a donor. I am just wondering if there is a better way.
Do you have any knowledge if a stock of such things exist anywhere - all those nimble fingered Russian ladies assembling these things must have had a huge parts bin.
Hi,
Alas, I know of no better way than to cannibalise other cameras to get spares to repair Zenits.
I really don't like killing a Zenit, but at least it can be used to repair one or more others. I have a 12XP which every useable part has been used, prism, shutter mech, meter, dials etc. have been used to repair other cameras.
There was one guy in Russia who had some new spares, including curtain springs, but most were second hand. His prices were steep & also postage costs made purchase prohibitive. He has now shut down and moved from Russia.
I have seen these old cardboard boxes of Zeint spares on Ebay, but the contents are not disclosed & they were listed at silly expensive prices, so not worth the gamble.
The Zenit factories have long been demolished & I cringe when I think of all those parts that most likely got bulldozed into landfill. At the timethese parts were less than worthless.
The number one fault with Zenits, is the 'Zenit crack' in the viewfinder. This is caused by the rotting foam which etches into the prism silvering. This is why I post at every opportunity, warning of this & asking peeps to change it. There is a company in the UK who can re-silver camera prisms (they also do telescopes etc) but whist their prices are not unreasonable, still far higher than the value of a working Zenit.
Next is just old grease gumming up the works. This is on the shutter springs (found inside the rollers) and the mirror assist spring. This requires a full strip down to access, which requires some skill. Even more skill is required to reassemble everything correctly, assuring everything is aligned. I had to make special tools to tension the shutter & mirror springs & an electronic shutter tester to then set the speeds correctly.
Next up is a failed galvanometer (light meter) the little wires that connect to the moving coil snap. I have tried to re-solder them, but have never had any success. A shutter with holes in is also sometimes found. I had an otherwise perfect camera with a tiny pin hole in the shutter curtain. I think somebody had pointed the camera directly at the sun. Also have had the rubber lining degrade & peel off.
Then we have the strange and weird faults. I bought a mint 12XP, but the LEDs were really dim, making the light-meter unusable. I thought it was my fault when reassembling after foam change (have I mentioned prism foam must be changed on ALL Zenit cameras). On top of the two LEDs is a small metal plate with two pin holes in it. Idea is to let just a tad of light out, else it would be too bright in the viewfinder. On removing this metal plate, I found it is held in place by double sided tape, but who ever had fitted it, had negated to remove one side of the backing paper. Despite attempts, I was unable to ascertain the history of the camera, I'm wondering if it was purchased, was unusable, so sat in the cupboard for 30+ years.
I have purchased a few 'new' or mint cameras that would never have worked from new. These were imports or purchased from outside the UK, as every official UK Zenit was fully disassembled and rebuilt by the importers, before sale in the UK. For example, I bought a boxed mint Belomo plastic topped ET from what looked like a junk shop in the Ukraine. A bit more than I would usually pay. What turned up was one of the limited-edition ETs with the silver/grey/green top. (It looks different colours depending on the light) I was well happy) However it did not work. The mirror lift mech was out of alignment, so never lifted. I'm guessing the original owner, after a first failed film, put it back in the box & never used it again. I got a mint 122, which found it's way into the UK but again could never have worked due toa few faults. Both cameras were an easy fixes for me.
Thanks for all the useful information - my next step is the to get a 'for parts' donor then go on from there. But in the mean time I will be having fun with my newly restored good Zenit B with a few rolls of B/W and Canon AE-1 with some Colour stock. (If you are interested I can tell you how to replace the control wire to the resistor bock on that one - a very challenging fix).Hi Asteksonus,
I had to take a number of cameras apart and stop at different stages, to work out how to put back together the first one I had dismantled)
The little shim washers can appear in different places or not at all, sometimes more than one in one place. I think it just depended on if the builders could be bothered to fit them or not & if a few were stuck together, they went in like that)
There are a number of shim washers that live under the TTL, 12xP & 122 wiper plate for the shutter speed. It is important that the same number go back here.
Glueing the ribbon or shutter onto the thinner rollers is no issue. They should be glued one complete turn and just back onto itself, ensuring the rollers are 90 degrees to the ribbon/curtain. However, the larger drum, with shutter curtain in the middle and ribbon on the outside is a different matter. This is where the shutter mech is indexed from & must be glued with total precision.
My method, providing the curtain/ribbons have not yet come un-glued. Normally, they have started to un-glue on the inner side, not the end (if you see what I mean. So, I peel back a little and re-glue using rubber solution glue (bike tyre repair stuff) Once set, I peel off the end of the ribbons, back to the new glue, then re-glue and ensure, as per the other side, the ribbon goes all the way around the drum and just back onto itself. This is then repeated for the curtain.
If the drum side has already let go, then a shutter jig is needed. Using a set of shutters from a camera that has not failed (and re-glueing as above), this can be laid out on a piece of wood. With the drum held in an indexed position (I use the cross-drilled hole) and clamped to stop it moving, the positions of the curtains can be marked. I made little clams to hold them there. Then the ends can be re-glued in the correct position onto the drum.
The tensions on the two drums and that of the mirror assist spring set the shutter speed, so without an accurate way to set these, there is no way to set the shutter speed. I have posted details of my shutter tester on the Zenit Camera Club facebook page. It is just an Arduino with two IR sensors & receivers, which measure each shutter curtain, which must be travelling at the same speed, else uneven exposure will occur. The two shutter tensions are not indexed, so a single sensor would give a speed, but not the speed difference between one side of the shutter travel & the other. It is a juggling act to get the curtains both travelling at the same speed and maintain an accurate shutter speed.
Below is a photo of the ribbons on the drum being re-glued. Only the top one came off & got chewed in the cog (a tear can be seen on it, to the right. As the bottom ribbon had not come off, indexing was not lost, so I just taped the curtain to my tray (I always work in a lipped tray, so as not to lose bits) and used some masking tape to make sure inner & outer drum stayed correctly aligned.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?