what is the last thing you developed or printed

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Here is a quick scan: https://db.tt/Xtyfypn0

It is, of course, contrast adjusted and sharpened. And it's 6x9 cm so of course it is detailed! If anyone is wondering what is going on in the lower right corner...it's my finger. My 77 mm filter wouldn't fit so I had to hold it with my fingers.

Used a green filter to try to bring the tone of the fern up a bit. No idea what aperture or shutter speed but EI was 64, or as close as I could come (shutter in whole stops, aperture in half...).
 

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I made a Namias sepiaprint teeshirt ...
 

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nosmok

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Been on a tear lately testing cameras and refining my Caffenol techniques. Today it was 3 rolls of some nameless 35mm film that I got 150 rolls of for free (misrepresented as c41 process, the guy gave me my money back but never sent a return address or asked for the film back despite repeated emails). I found it responds really well to Caffenol CH-RS and have been having a ball with it. Unfortunately this time out I also found out that my Leica's shutter curtain is going. It's always something...
 

NedL

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toning a salt print right now... I meant to check the "open sky" exposure at 10 minutes but something distracted me and it was overdone at 15 minutes when I looked, so I'm not going to have any bright whites. It might still look good, not sure.... It's on the old Magnani Mills Revere Platinum, first time I've tried the paper ( and since I've only got a small packet, one of the last times too ).
 
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it was a roll of superia400, 3 or 4 exp by me, the rest by a local 11 year old with a nikon p/s :smile:
developed and printed by my local printer, she's fantastic !
 

TareqPhoto

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Just finished processing Kodak TMAX400 in HC-110 Dil B, now it is waiting to get dry, saw the frames, but feel they are not all at same exposure, 2 frames sounds over exposed, 1 or 2 are almost balanced, and the rest are nearly under exposed, not sure if that is good thing or not, i did shoot quick under fixed settings indoor, didn't know the lighting indoor could vary in small area, but i will wait and see later.
 

TareqPhoto

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I want to develop another film which is Tri-X, but i don't know how to develop it right because i think i might under exposed the film slightly, maybe about half stop or 1 stop, so should i just develop it normally for the dil and temp as recommended in tables or charts or should i do some kind of compensation/modifying something to match the exposure settings? i used my d.... camera for metering, and not sure if it will give a good reading for my film exposure enough, actually i looked at 2 exposures on the LCD or viewfinder, one as 0 exp which means proper and one as underexposed around -0.7, and i prefer that of -0.7 more.
 

NedL

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It depends a bit on how you meter... if you normally expose so the shadows have a little density on the film, then you probably will be fine using your normal time. Usually 0.7 stops one way or the other isn't going to make a huge difference. If it were me, I'd use my normal developing time and expect the negatives to be a bit thinner than usual but still printable.
 
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TareqPhoto

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It depends a bit on how you meter... if you normally expose so the shadows have a little density on the film, then you probably will be fine using your normal time. Usually 0.7 stops one way or the other isn't going to make a huge difference. If it were me, I'd use my normal developing time and expect the negatives to be a bit thinner than usual but still printable.

Fair enough, who knows, it may end up being a good exposure, because looking at the LCD of my camera the highlight or lights were still over exposed, so it is like it exposed for shadow and mid-tones mostly, and you are right, 0-1 stop isn't that huge difference, maybe that 0 stop in digital metering is almost +1 in film, i assume that film DR and latitude is wider so it may give nearly 1+ exposure ahead of digital metering, i will develop normal then judge.
 

Black Dog

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My last roll of 828 Verichrome Pan (expired 1974) in Caffenol-C, replenished so more like CCM, at Bernie Sanders' appearance in Lincoln Park. Looks like it came out great. And always fun to have guys carrying Rolleiflexes look at my Kodak Bantam and say "What the heck is that?".
You might even get an ITAH moment if you're lucky!:wink:
 

Moorlander

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what was the last thing you developed or printed.
it can be color or b/w im not too picky you
dont' have to post an image, just what was the material
( film or paper ) and what was the developer and how ( what way ) was it processed.

i just processed 8 rolls of film ( kodak, neopan, ilford )
and i processed them in hand tanks ( 4 to a tank ) 4 mins ansco 130 1:9 ish 5 mins in caffenol 130 ...

haven't made prints since june/early july ...

Only this week I developed 2 120 and 1 135 rolls of Tri-X 400 exposed to 320ASA two rolls (135) of Fuji Neopan 400. The films are at the moment in a press for a couple of days to get them flat befor I scan them. I have stopped printing a couple of years back ever since we moved into our present house, which has no room for a darkroom. I use XTOL 1+1 and develop approx 11% (4th square root of 2 ) longer than recommended by Kodak.

I am looking for a replacement for my beloved Neopan 400 as my stockpile is running low.
 

pdeeh

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yesterday spent a couple
of hours making interpos dupes from 120 onto lith film using very dilute d23.
then today made some wholeplate size negatives from them, also in d23.
the lith is over 20years old and needs a bit of benzotriazole to manage the fog.
not quite there yet with either process. need a flatter interpos I think for a start.
still I've got 100 sheets of 16x20 lith to play with so I'm sure I'll get there ...
 

railwayman3

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Two C-41 films.....the roll from a 99p disposable camera found in a drawer, develop by Sept 2005, and an Agfacolor film, co-incidentally also expired Sept 2005 and from equally dubious storage conditions. Both sets of negs were absolutely fine. :smile:
 

TheToadMen

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Hekoru

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Both are great, I like the waterfront best.
And let me guess: Australia and Mont St. Michel in France?

Thanks! You are mostly correct :smile: First pic is Uluru, in Austrlia. The second one is St Michael's Mount in Cornwall. Not quite as nice as Mont St. Michel but still a pretty sight.
 

winger

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I finally tried lith printing. I'm pretty happy with the results I got, specially considering that I used 30 yeard old agfa brovira paper!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hekoru/shares/2ok7zc
Welcome to the addiction! Great start, too.


My most recent endeavor was to do some Mordançage on a few prints. 4 prints in one day. One looks really cool and the other three are ok. If the weather turns out as forecast next week, I may do a few more. I'm so glad school is back in session!!

Here's the top 3 (the 4th was clean, I didn't want to put it near these) - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ewf_photography/29082484270/in/dateposted-public/
 
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Harry Stevens

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Just developed a test strip of 35mm B&W Phototec 100 expired to find the best speed for me, also got a colour 120 Agfa 160 sitting in a tank awaiting for me to develop it. Then last week..........:smile::smile:
 

MrBrowning

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Last night I developed 3 rolls of Acros shot in a new to me zero image 6x9 and 2 rolls of APX 25 shot in my Bronica. All in HC-110.

Tonight I'm running 3 Rolls of Superpan, 2 of Fomapan 200 and 2 of Tri-X all in Rodinal Spezial.
 
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a handful of cyanothypes
not sure if i am going to bleach them
or paint them or just leave them alone ...
 
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a big 3 day exposed cyanotype made
with 2 hand waxed rubbings
water soaked it a little while
ago, bleached it back a little bit
still hanging // might ad color to it
when it dries out a little bit
 
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