Finished repairs on my new Tele-Rolleiflex: a CLA on the shutter, collimated the taking and viewing lenses, and rebuilt the wind mechanism. This is my third wind mechanism rebuild and I still managed to screw up the sheet metal light shield when I reinstalled the film rollers. Fortunately I had one from a parts camera to replace it with.
What did you fix today?
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I'm repairing two Yashica TLRs and I just twisted the head off a left-handed screw... There's only one word for it.
Oh, what did I FIX today? Jeeez..
Luckily, I found the only guy on the planet currently selling just the lens assembly that I can split for parts for both, so I'm happy again. I can replace the shutter and upgrade the lens groups on one and fit a new front plate to the other. Hooray!
Even if you're not green, those lefties can still sneak up on you...
Oh, what did I FIX today? Jeeez..
Luckily, I found the only guy on the planet currently selling just the lens assembly that I can split for parts for both, so I'm happy again. I can replace the shutter and upgrade the lens groups on one and fit a new front plate to the other. Hooray!
Even if you're not green, those lefties can still sneak up on you...
Hasn't been "fixed" yet, but I finally sourced the gear rack for my Seneca 8x10 project. Pretty danged pleased about that. 
As per (there was a url link here which no longer exists) thread, I de/reconstructed a 3 1/2" #8 Packard Shutter, so that it now works as a #6 (I guess that's called reverse engineering, but in fact I simply discovered that the second piston is not really necessary) and mounted it on a hinged plate so that it can be used with any short barrel lens.. I'm thinking of mounting a Cokin P adapter so I can throw a couple of NDs on the front and manage my exposures a little better with my more primitive lens bits.
I fixed a few prints... 
But I also took apart my darkroom timer, soldered on some new spade connectors for the switch connections, made sure everything was working fine, and put it back together. More of an improvement than a fix, but hopefully it'll hold up for a few more years until I can get a really good one.
But I also took apart my darkroom timer, soldered on some new spade connectors for the switch connections, made sure everything was working fine, and put it back together. More of an improvement than a fix, but hopefully it'll hold up for a few more years until I can get a really good one.
I got fixed the supply side spool on my Kodak Tourist II fixed (after grinding too much away trying to get it to work with 120 spools). I also cleaned up an Ansco Memar that had a frozen focus. It isn't "show" quality, but it works and that's more important to me. I hate seeing old cameras that don't work or you can't find film for anymore like my 110 and 126 instamatics.
Agfa B-2 Cadet
cleaned it the other day....tested it & works fine except the small rollers the film emulsion-side goes over...rust spots seem to be damaging the film leaving spots in the negative
sanded them smooth...gonna run a test roll thru tomorrow
cleaned it the other day....tested it & works fine except the small rollers the film emulsion-side goes over...rust spots seem to be damaging the film leaving spots in the negative
sanded them smooth...gonna run a test roll thru tomorrow
I took a slide cutter and added three white Christmas tree lights, a momentary switch, and a two AAA battery pack to light it up from inside so I can make even cuts on my negatives.
Replaced the tripod socket on the F2A. Noticed my MD-2 felt loose on the camera. When I was done with the roll of film, I took the drive off. Discovered that the socket had been pulled out a little bit. Just enough to seat the screw on the drive before the drive had completely mated to the baseplate. Picked up a replacement part from Camera Clinic in Shoreline, WA. Brought it home, pulled the baseplate, and swapped it. Now the camera doesn't rock sideways when it's placed on a table, and the drive fits flush against the baseplate, like it should.
-J
-J
Fixed the original WLF for my Hassy : the top of the hood did not come up properly, and I had to "charge" the spring (looks like it was displaced at a moment in the past).
It looks much better than the Salyut hood I used !
It looks much better than the Salyut hood I used !
Linhof Technika
Linhof TechnikaV: The screw holding the spring tensioner gizmo for the drop-bed strut (with the notches) broke off, leaving my camera with only one functioning strut.
After getting some advice from an old camera repairman, I managed to extract the broken screw myself and replace it with a new one. About two hours' work, and it's good as new.
A simple thing, but I've never extracted a broken-off-screw of this nature before, it was quite tricky.
Linhof TechnikaV: The screw holding the spring tensioner gizmo for the drop-bed strut (with the notches) broke off, leaving my camera with only one functioning strut.
After getting some advice from an old camera repairman, I managed to extract the broken screw myself and replace it with a new one. About two hours' work, and it's good as new.
A simple thing, but I've never extracted a broken-off-screw of this nature before, it was quite tricky.
I replaced the back release on my Mamiya C-220f. I had to remove the skin from the left side to access all the screws, remove the broken plastic mechanism, and find the broken piece that was jamming the release lever in the camera body before I could install the new part. Its all back together and functions like a new one ought to. Now my daughter has a 6x6 TLR to shoot.
Today I rebuilt the leg locking device on my 11x14 & 14x17 Tripod. I designed a way to lock the legs initially that worked okay. When I was up in Yosemite last weekend I took out the 14x17 and needed to raise the tripod and one of the legs would not lock down. So, I made the cam-lock system for this tripod as well. I used this locking system on the tripod I built for the 8x20. It is a simple but very effective and relatively easy fix for the tripod. You can easily adjust the tension with the knurled nobs.
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My Paterson contact printer
I bought two printers for a few , but one needed some new foams. I discovered the nice contact prints it gives (although this seems to be very time consuming) but the foam just let crappy bits everywhere on the prints...
Used a "hot wire" cutter to slice some foam I had, this worked like a charm !
I bought two printers for a few , but one needed some new foams. I discovered the nice contact prints it gives (although this seems to be very time consuming) but the foam just let crappy bits everywhere on the prints...
Used a "hot wire" cutter to slice some foam I had, this worked like a charm !
Well not exactly fixing, more of a refurb. I cleaned up an 11x14 4 bladed easel I got off Craigslist. Washed the whole thing in hot soapy water, used De-Solv-it to clean off all the masking tape residue, and erased some pencil reference lines from the previous owner. I just used the easel to hold a print so that I could photographic it, worked like a charm.
Roger
Roger
A couple of months ago I dropped my Minolta Spotmeter F on a hard floor. The thing opened. I feared for the worse. I brought it home and the morning after I reassemble all parts carefully. I thought I had repaired it, it seemed to work.
I did not use it until a week ago. I took it, it did not work. Opened it again, a soldering was detached (battery slot). Soldered it. Assembled it all. Seemed to work, but after final reassembly did not work. Reopened it, made another soldering (the other wire of the battery slot). Now it works, although, very sadly, the internal visualization of the tenth of value does not work properly (some "segments" of the digits are broken). I must read every value on the external display (which is what I do in any cases in most circumstances).
If there is anything I can do to restore correct operation of the viewfinder display, please tell me.
Fabrizio
I did not use it until a week ago. I took it, it did not work. Opened it again, a soldering was detached (battery slot). Soldered it. Assembled it all. Seemed to work, but after final reassembly did not work. Reopened it, made another soldering (the other wire of the battery slot). Now it works, although, very sadly, the internal visualization of the tenth of value does not work properly (some "segments" of the digits are broken). I must read every value on the external display (which is what I do in any cases in most circumstances).
If there is anything I can do to restore correct operation of the viewfinder display, please tell me.
Fabrizio
Not today but a couple of days ago: I fixed my Rolleicord V which had developed an intermittent problem of one side of the front catching on something when putting the focus back to infinity.
The front which holds the lenses is fixed to the focus mechanism with two screws on each side. There is a spacer/shim on each side too which look like long, thin spanners. These are difficult to keep in place and tend to fall out whilst putting the screws in. After a few failed attempts I added a piece of sticky tape to hold them in place.
Then I had trouble lining up the mechanism which links the wind on stop and the douple exposure prevention. I found that the only way to get it to line up was to push the pin on the body up as far as it would go, set the shutter to multiple exposure, cock it then fire the trigger and keep the shutter lever in the fire position whilst putting the front in place (there must be an easier, more logical way).
I think I took the front on and off about seventeen times.... Anyway, it's fixed now!
Steve.
The front which holds the lenses is fixed to the focus mechanism with two screws on each side. There is a spacer/shim on each side too which look like long, thin spanners. These are difficult to keep in place and tend to fall out whilst putting the screws in. After a few failed attempts I added a piece of sticky tape to hold them in place.
Then I had trouble lining up the mechanism which links the wind on stop and the douple exposure prevention. I found that the only way to get it to line up was to push the pin on the body up as far as it would go, set the shutter to multiple exposure, cock it then fire the trigger and keep the shutter lever in the fire position whilst putting the front in place (there must be an easier, more logical way).
I think I took the front on and off about seventeen times.... Anyway, it's fixed now!
Steve.
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it wasn't today but last friday
a seized winding mechanism /film advance
and seized shutter in a rolleicord 1a/3
a seized winding mechanism /film advance
and seized shutter in a rolleicord 1a/3
Hassleblad A-12 back
Thursday I got a beautiful EX+ black A-12 back from Adorama with a stuck frame counter and bad frame spacing for $20. CLA Friday and it works great. Smooth as silk and the roll just out of the soup confirms perfect spacing!
Thursday I got a beautiful EX+ black A-12 back from Adorama with a stuck frame counter and bad frame spacing for $20. CLA Friday and it works great. Smooth as silk and the roll just out of the soup confirms perfect spacing!
Water pump in my CPP-2. Fired it up for the first time after 14mo in storage (that's 14mo in my shed, probably another two to five years more sitting at the store I bought it from) and the pump didn't run. Got the service manual (thanks to someone who posted the PDF to APUG!), got it apart, cleaned some corrosion out of the pump body and the glued-up oil from the motor bearings. Runs nicely now.
And of course, the CPP-2 proceeded to fix two rolls of Acros.
And of course, the CPP-2 proceeded to fix two rolls of Acros.
8 sheets of 4"x5" Kodak TMax 400 that I developed today.
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