What did you fix today? (part 2)

[Donald Qualls]

Over the weekend, I restored (apparently) critical function to my Super Chromega D Dichroic II color head. Initial testing had no main lamp function -- nope, bulb was fine, a wire nut was melted and had become electrically open. After cutting and stripping, I didn't trust another wire nut, so I soldered both wire joints and covered the joints with heat shrink. Likely contributor to the failure (which seems to have stayed failed when the last owner replaced the main lamp) was that the light shield (keeps the exposure light out of the front panel indicator window) was installed to block the cooling fan from drawing air through the lamp chamber, rather than where it should have been. Replaced that where it belonged, and short of actual print testing, it should be working (filters are in the correct positions and cut into the light path as they should). The scrim that reduces the light for "LOW" setting is missing, but that's not critical to immediate function, and I believe I can improvise a replacement.

 

[Kino]

Pulled apart a Minotla 58mm MC Rokkor-PF f 1.4 lens that had glued-down aperture blades. Followed this video:
No problems; works like a champ and is super clean!

 

[removed account4]

whole bunch of prints

 

[Kino]

Regreased a helicoid on another Minotla 58mm MC Rokkor-PF f 1.4 lens. Used Japan Camera #10 grease and it is super smooth now!
Only anxiety was getting that damned click/detent ball back in the aperture ring. That was very stressful, as springs, tiny ball bearings and I have a very poor relationship...

 

[mshchem]

I put a old (good) tripod head on an old good camera stand that I'm getting out of my house and selling to a young friend for 50 bucks. We are both elated!

 

[mshchem]

Over the weekend, I restored (apparently) critical function to my Super Chromega D Dichroic II color head. Initial testing had no main lamp function -- nope, bulb was fine, a wire nut was melted and had become electrically open. After cutting and stripping, I didn't trust another wire nut, so I soldered both wire joints and covered the joints with heat shrink. Likely contributor to the failure (which seems to have stayed failed when the last owner replaced the main lamp) was that the light shield (keeps the exposure light out of the front panel indicator window) was installed to block the cooling fan from drawing air through the lamp chamber, rather than where it should have been. Replaced that where it belonged, and short of actual print testing, it should be working (filters are in the correct positions and cut into the light path as they should). The scrim that reduces the light for "LOW" setting is missing, but that's not critical to immediate function, and I believe I can improvise a replacement.

Saving colorheads is a righteous act! In ten years, especially Beseler, these things are going to be very hard to find .

 

[Donald Qualls]

Saving colorheads is a righteous act! In ten years, especially Beseler, these things are going to be very hard to find .

I do what I can to be photographically righteous. I already have some 8x10 Crystal Archive paper and RA-4 chemistry concentrates (order a month or so ago), and an 8x10 print drum, set of viewing filters (for correcting filtration); goal is to make color prints (my first ever) over my 4-day Thanksgiving weekend (two weeks from now). Also got some old and some fresh multigrade and some old Grade 3; the old paper is probably fogged, but I can test it easily enough, and add some benzotriazole to the Dektol or try bleaching down the fog if need be.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Now Im looking at the dreaded shutter curtains on my old canon iiD1 that I've been avoiding. Need to practice on this before tackling the Leica.
Can anyone tell what type of glue I should use glueing the curtains on the drums? The two I tried weren't any good. So need to clean off an try another.
View attachment 256919

'Contact adhesive' (e.g. from Pattex) is the way to go: you have to put it on both surfaces, let dry for a few minutes, and then put both surfaces against each other and put pressure on them....

...and better get the drums out to make it easier to glue the curtains and ribbons on...


NKDV FED repair & cla XIII by Ron (Netherlands), on Flickr

For the whole restoration of the FED see here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zorki_2007/albums/72157631569483687

...and here's one I did on a Zorki:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zorki_2007/albums/72157627921991695

 

[mshchem]

I do what I can to be photographically righteous. I already have some 8x10 Crystal Archive paper and RA-4 chemistry concentrates (order a month or so ago), and an 8x10 print drum, set of viewing filters (for correcting filtration); goal is to make color prints (my first ever) over my 4-day Thanksgiving weekend (two weeks from now). Also got some old and some fresh multigrade and some old Grade 3; the old paper is probably fogged, but I can test it easily enough, and add some benzotriazole to the Dektol or try bleaching down the fog if need be.

Printing color is very straightforward. Try to stay with one type of film, once you've got the right filtration it's mostly a matter of making a test strip to get right density. View your prints under a daylight led. Sometimes I've had to come back a couple times days later. Ring around prints help alot.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Printing color is very straightforward.

Yeah, except when it isn't. I've got negatives to print from a number of different emulsions, so I'll have to adjust filtration some, but start with the starting values (50Y 20M?), test strip for density, then a full print to check for color. I have a daylight LED around somewhere. Print needs to be dry, too, right? True for B&W, I know (dry-down).

 

[mshchem]

Yeah, except when it isn't. I've got negatives to print from a number of different emulsions, so I'll have to adjust filtration some, but start with the starting values (50Y 20M?), test strip for density, then a full print to check for color. I have a daylight LED around somewhere. Print needs to be dry, too, right? True for B&W, I know (dry-down).

Definitely needs to be dry. Blow dryer is what I used before I got lucky on finding a dryer. In the old days Kodak printed starting filter pack on the envelope or box of paper. There's quite a big difference (or there used to be ) between amateur and pro films. The orange mask of amateur films was more potent than pro. Of course this was a while back. You can do color ring around when you get close just don't touch cyan, if you add 10 M subtract 10 Y etc. Keep neutral density the same. You can mask off all but one corner with a card and make 4 different filter combination on one 8x10. Saunders made easels for this I see them on Ebay, but it's just another expense.

 

[eli griggs]

Over the weekend, I restored (apparently) critical function to my Super Chromega D Dichroic II color head. Initial testing had no main lamp function -- nope, bulb was fine, a wire nut was melted and had become electrically open. After cutting and stripping, I didn't trust another wire nut, so I soldered both wire joints and covered the joints with heat shrink. Likely contributor to the failure (which seems to have stayed failed when the last owner replaced the main lamp) was that the light shield (keeps the exposure light out of the front panel indicator window) was installed to block the cooling fan from drawing air through the lamp chamber, rather than where it should have been. Replaced that where it belonged, and short of actual print testing, it should be working (filters are in the correct positions and cut into the light path as they should). The scrim that reduces the light for "LOW" setting is missing, but that's not critical to immediate function, and I believe I can improvise a replacement.

 

[eli griggs]

I have the 5x7 'E' version of that colour head, and I hope to work at it some, this new year.

Congratulations on your getting yours back in action, where all these old jewels need to be. .

 

[Helios 1984]

I opened my newly acquired Lanasix 3 to clean and re-glue the window which had come loose. The backplate is easy to remove after heating it for 15-20 seconds with a hairdryer and prying it off with a filed down flat screwdriver. I also very gently cleaned the silver filter on the photocell aperture plate and the glass protector. I have to say, I'm quite impressed by this little thrift store find, I knew it was working but I didn't expect it to be as accurate as my Luna Pro F.

Note: This one was manufactured during the 2nd quarter of 1973.

Note: Make sure to use a glue that is safe for plastic.

 

[fdonadio]

Fixed my wash machine yesterday. Spent almost the whole day to take it apart, clean everything and replace the gearbox. Working perfectly, no weird noises.

After that, a short 20km bicycle ride.

Now going through the 9-day backlog of dirty laundry.

 

[eli griggs]

I opened my newly acquired Lanasix 3 to clean and re-glue the window which had come loose. The backplate is easy to remove after heating it for 15-20 seconds with a hairdryer and prying it off with a filed down flat screwdriver. I also very gently cleaned the silver filter on the photocell aperture plate and the glass protector. I have to say, I'm quite impressed by this little thrift store find, I knew it was working but I didn't expect it to be as accurate as my Luna Pro F.

Note: Make sure to use a glue that is safe for plastic.

Great meters and this one is easy to carry on a walkabout shoot.

Nice work

 

[Kino]

Fixed the winding lever on my Exakta VX 1000 after the lever somehow jumped time on the gear stack and refused to engage. Didn't have a manual or even a diagram but I muddled through and got it done.

The hardest thing to figure out was how to preload the return spring on the winding lever without the winding lever attached! Turns out you can tension the shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers and then stake the gearing of the shutter curtain with a pair of tweezers, let go of the wind shaft with the pliers and reassemble the lever onto this shaft. Then you can gently release the shutter curtain gearing and the winding lever will spring back to the stop.

Whew! Thought I'd destroy it for sure...

 

[Helios 1984]

Great meters and this one is easy to carry on a walkabout shoot.

Nice work

Thanks you.
I still need to finish fixing the case, It cleaned nicely but I had to scrap the old lining.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I posted not long ago about restoring function on my Super Chromega D Dichroic II color head -- today I got the necessary parts swapped and the head installed on my D2 (it came with a D5). Seems like it's offset away from the column, relative to the opening under the negative carrier, but I'll have to put a 4x5 carrier in there to be sure. If it covers the 4x5 opening, it'll be fine. If not, I may have to dig up information on what difference between D5 and D2 might have caused this and figure out how to correct it. The alignment adjusters are already almost at the end of travel. Meanwhile, the stainless mesh I ordered to recreate the "LOW" intensity filter should arrive today, and the high temperature silicone I intend to use to attach the mesh is reporting delivery tomorrow.

Still need to put a couple screws in the drywall to mount the timer, get a short extension cord to go from timer to "TIMER IN" connector on the power supply (so I don't have to keep a 50' extension cord in my darkroom), figure out where I'm going to mount the safelights, and pick up a two to one plug adapter to run two safelight fixtures off the single safelight outlet on the timer. Looks like a trip to the Big Box this afternoon; should be able to do safelight testing on the new amber LED bulbs this afternoon or tomorrow, followed by my first attempts at color printing tomorrow and Sunday.

 

[eli griggs]

Put in as long a drywall screw(s) as you can, do if somehow the thinner is hit or tears the drywall hole large enough to let it slip, the longer screw will act as a break and hopefully stop a complete fall from occuring.

At the art studios, where I had my studio, I can no tell you the number of times small drywall screws (in drywall panels/walls) let go and trashed valuable framed art work.

Those framed pieces did no get a lot of handling, your timer will.

IMO.

 

[MattKing]

Alternatively, put screws into a piece of plywood, and then attach the plywood to the drywall using (more) drywall screws.

 

[eli griggs]

If you put up a board, you might as well use proper drywall anchors, to mount it or a French cleat.

IMO.

 

[gordrob]

If yu want to anchor any of your darkroom equipment I would recommend using "Zip" -" Flip" or "Snaptoggle" toggle bolts. These anchors are rated to hold items up to 50lbs or more. They are used to anchor TVs to the wall so that should tell your what they will hold. Simple to install and not expensive. Instructions are on Youtube. If you are constructing a darkroom you should think ahead and when you have your layout confirmed you should install backing in the wall so when you are going to attach anything to the walls there will be a surface to attach to. Backing in the walls will require you to rip a 5/8" pr 3/4" piece of plywood into 16" or 24" that will fit between the studs and then in the future when you want to install a timer or any other relatively heavy piece of equipment no toggles are required just a screw. This backing theory is used in commercial construction to avoid having to find a way of hanging products after the construction is completed.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The wall this timer is going on is one of the original outside walls in the mobile home. I bought the screw-in drywall anchors I've used before; they'll hold twenty pounds or so each even in the thin drywall we have, and since I'm the only one using this darkroom, two of those ought to be plenty for a timer that only weighs about a pound. Once it's all plugged in (to be done before it goes onto the screw heads), the only stress it will see is flipping the slide switches -- most of which will be left in one position for months at a time, if not permanently. On-off is a rocker switch on the end of the timer, time settings are with push buttons (which will push into the wall, instead of stressing the anchors), as is the "expose" (until I can find or build a foot switch, mainly useful for dodging and burning).

 

[Helios 1984]

I've just finished revamping the case of my newly acquired Gossen Lunasix 3.