Thinking of Getting an 8x10 View Camera

[braxus]

I managed to purchase 2 film holders so far. Im picking them up either this Saturday or the end of the month. I'd like to get at least 1 more, but that's a purchase for a month or two from now. I still need a dark bag, scanner, cloth hood, a proper lens (like the 300mm), another lens board for that lens, and finally some film itself. Lots of choices for film. I'll stick with the bunch I've picked out.

 

[Vaughn]

I have not looked at this thread for awhile. Great looking camera. I like the full set of movements for the front standard! The base tilt in the back is a little more awkward to use than axis tilt, but one easily gets use to it...just a little more refocusing. Good luck in filling out your kit!

A good set of holders is nice to have...mine finally blossomed to 30 holders since getting the 8x10 in about 1996. I went with a FujiW 300mm as my one lens starting out in 8x10 -- and I was quite happy with it for many years. I slowly added some process lenses from 210mm, 480mm and 600mm. No shutters so lighter and less expensive. But a more recent purchase of a Fuji W 250mm/6.7 has been seeing as much use as the 300mm. I have a Fuji 360/6.3 for the 11x14 I can use on the 8x10, but rarely do -- it is a beast and it is not that significant of a jump between 300 and 360. But if I need the coverage, its there for tons of movement.

 

[braxus]

How do you go about using lenses with no shutter? How do you control light falling on the film like that? The Fuji 300 f5.6 was one of the two lenses I was looking at for a future purchase. Im not sure my wide angle lenses that I use on my 4x5 camera will cover enough on the 8x10. I might have to get the older version of one of them to work. Then sell the newer one. This is going to take some time to get my kit rounded out. I still have to grab that 5x7 back the seller offered me. That will come in the next few months. Im not sure when I'll finally get the film, since I need to put a really big order with Freestyle, which will add up to 2 months spare cash when all is said and done.

 

[MattKing]

How do you go about using lenses with no shutter? How do you control light falling on the film like that?

I can answer that by relying on my experience with pinhole cameras.
You use a lens cap, an opaque to light hat, and a watch with a sweep second hand.
Your exposures are for several seconds, and you practice using the hat and the cap together.

 

[Vaughn]

I photograph closed down and often in low light, so my exposures tend to be in multiple seconds if not multiple minutes. And timing is not as critical for long exposures -- so as Matt suggested, I use the lens cap -- carefully working it almost all the way off before carefully removing it without moving the camera to start the exposure. I like the hat idea -- use the hat to block the lens while taking off the lens cap to prevent shaking the camera -- but I have not done it that way, but I normally wear an opaque hat!

I have done 1/2 sec and 1 second, but fortunately great accuracy is not needed because that is difficult.

 

[braxus]

The two film holders I got so far, came with what looks like double sided sticky tape put in the center of the holder. I can see this would help make the film flatter when exposing, but getting the film out proved a real issue when I tried. One of the holders came with film in them, so when I tried pulling the film out, it was still stuck to the tape. Granted the tape isn't so bad it would never come off, but Im debating whether I should remove the tape. I don't want to be bending or wrestling with pulling back out the sheet of film while its in the dark bag. I threw out those two sheets of film I had in the holder.

So what do you think- should I remove the tape? At first I thought the holders came like this, but on inspection of a second holder, the tape was not all there.

 

[Vaughn]

Get rid of the tape. Tape is not a bad idea, but if the film is left in the holders for awhile, sticking and tape residue on the film is probable. I believe I used some acetone to dissolve the remaining adheshive.

I used a double-sided tape with a low-tack side I put towards the film. I was having 8x10 film shift and/or buckle during long exposures. This particular cure was not worth it.

 

[braxus]

OK. I had some Acetone and some Qtips, so I removed as much of the tape as I could and used acetone to clean it up with what remained.

 

[DREW WILEY]

The correct tape is a 3M ATG tape with permanent adhesive on one side but Post-It adhesive on the other side. I've used adhesive holders for over 30 yrs now with no problems. Haven't even had to change the adhesive, nor has any of it transferred onto the film. I've given details elsewhere. Look up Adhesive Filmholders. But you do need the correct tape or you will have problems. There is also a technique to applying it. The reward is significantly sharper prints if you make enlargements. I wouldn't worry about contact prints or just a modest amount of enlargement.

 

[braxus]

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000V4FMJE...olid=3E8D887WENVVR&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Would this be the correct tape to use?

 

[DREW WILEY]

No. That's the wrong tape. You want 3M no. 928, preferably one of the wider sizes. Holders have to be modified by removing the retainer fins to allow the film to drop down and rest on the adhesive rather than sliding in behind the fins. Try to acquire an expendable Lisco or Fidelity plastic holder to practice on. The fins are easily removed with a steel straightedge and sharp box knife. Of course, once you've altered a holder, there's no going back. The tape needs to be rubbed down firmly and very evenly before removing the top liner. If you goof that up you can peel it away with a plastic putty knife along with acetone. Don't get any acetone on the plastic parts of the holder, but the aluminum septum in the middle will be unaffected. Most of the septum should be coated with tape oriented vertically, not just a spot in the middle. Do not let the tape strips overlap.

 

[braxus]

That sounds like a real pain in the ass to modify. I think I'll just leave them as is.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Yeah. It's an option if you actually need it. I use both regular and modified 8x10 holders, depending on just how big a print I have in mind.

 

[braxus]

I was looking at backpacks for this camera. Its hard to tell if the ones you are looking at are big enough inside to hold the 8x10 camera. One I was looking at is the Lowepro Super Trekker AW Backpack. Is this one big enough? Just enough to hold the one or two lenses, a couple film holders, and the camera itself. Plus the tripod hung on the outside.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I use true external frame backpacks just like for real camping/backpacking trips. Lots of them barely used show up on Ebay. The older US-made "vintage" products tend to be better quality if still in good condition. Much better value than official camera packs, bigger too. Learn to use ordinary bubble wrap, fomecore board etc rather than the heavy redundant sponge foam that's in camera packs. Of course, if you want something "just enough" there are a number of choices out there that other people can recommend. I prefer something capable of more gear, weather-related clothing, lunch, with more serious shoulder and waist comfort than any dedicated camera pack can provide. But always try things on first for personal fit.

 

[silveror0]

I use true external frame backpacks just like for real camping/backpacking trips. Lots of them barely used show up on Ebay. The older US-made "vintage" products tend to be better quality if still in good condition...

+1
The name to look for is Kelty. I have two of these original versions, very good quality and sturdy. In my younger days, I only knew of one person who could break one of the frames in the welds; that was my backpacking buddy who was really rough with his gear when we carried packs as much as 82 lbs for extended trips. I always kidded him that he really needed his Linhof field camera that could withstand his punishment.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I'll be out with a true Kelty Tioga pack this afternoon. It just sat totally unused in someone's closet for 40 years. These were darn expensive back then. I replace the aluminum clevis pins and rings with stainless steel ones. The last wholly unused classic pack I acquired turned up at the garage sale; I traded a half-empty quart of varnish for it. Way better made than the current import stuff. I put well over 10,000 miles in the mountains on my first Kelty. It carried not only my Sinar camera system but all my necessary food and backpacking gear, plus a bit of necessary mountaineering articles. Wish I could still carry that kind of weight (around 90lbs); but now I substitute a little Ebony 4X5 folder for long backpack trips, and reserve the Sinar and 8x10 systems for day hikes. Now that I'm 70, I try to keep the pack weight under 70lbs starting out. But that figure will no doubt get whittled down too. Its about 40 lbs for day hikes, so I deliberately add extra wt when training for upcoming high country trips.

 

[braxus]

I looked at used backpacks on Ebay and found a few. One was only $35, but for some reason shipping from Texas to Washington State was $150. Im like huh? So needless to say the backpack purchase is on the back burner.

I managed to get 4 film holders in total. 2 of them are still stuck across the border and will stay there till the border opens up again. But I have 2 here at the moment. Im thinking of getting a box of 10 sheets of Shanghai GP3 film, as its fairly inexpensive and it has a nice look. I was also debating to get some Catlabs X80, but there is rumours its the same film as GP3. Anyway I still need to get some safety bags, and also a proper lens for the camera. Then a flatbed scanner like the V850. But due to budget constraints, all these are pushed back to later this year. Doing 8x10 to start up has not been cheap. And I got my stuff on discount compared to current pricing.

My tripod is a Manfrotto 455, which is the same as the 055 series. Im debating to swap it out to a carbon fibre 055. No rush on that either. Ive been watching the Fujinon 300mm f5.6 lenses, but all the inexpensive ones sold, so now I wait till another 300 dollar one comes along. By the time Im using the camera, it might be a full year since I started this.

 

[GKC]

Sounds like you're having fun! Enjoy in good health

 

[Vaughn]

Sounding good...the Fuji 300/5.6 is still my go-to lens for 8x10/4x10 (tho the 250/6.7 is close behind).
Some insulation of the metal legs (on two) is good for cold weather and makes it easier to carry on ones shoulder.
I use a quality internal frame travel pack for my 8x10. Holds everything...3 lenses, up to 7, maybe 8 holders, comfortable all day, and no external metal tubing to dig into or get caught on anything.

 

[braxus]

Well this week I ordered up some 8x10 film. 2 old stock and 1 new stock. Picked up a box of 50 sheets of Adox CHS 25 Art (my favorite B&W film- basically Efke 25), some Fuji Velvia 50 in 10 sheets, and a new box of Shanghai GP3. I'd still like to get some Fuji B&W, but Im waiting on that one. I also might get a new box of Kodak Portra 160 at some point. That would do me for a while then.

Im still waiting to get the Fujinon lens, plus some safety bags, and the Epson scanner. My other stuff is still stuck across the border, with no idea when it will come across. I can't really shoot anything till I get that lensboard which is in the US. My tripod has been upgraded to a carbon fibre 055 model. Im using the same old head I've used for years (141RC). This is all slow going. I hope I can take my first shot by the end of the year.

 

[braxus]

Still working on my 8x10 kit. Today I purchased a Fujinon L 300mm f5.6 lens. I heard the L has really nice bokeh, nicer then the W versions. And sharpness is still good. I still need to get my stuff from the USA to Canada. I may have to get it mailed off instead of waiting for the border to open. I missed on a chance to get a scanner, but I'll wait till another one comes. I still need to get a bigger dark bag too.

 

[138S]

And sharpness is still good.

When playing with 8x10 format usually you have a sharpness overkill, having to print really, really big to see a difference from glass, and normally any flaw comes more from the photographer or from the shooting conditions.

 

[GKC]

No my plan is to use it for both portraits and local landscape shots. So both indoors and out. More outdoors. Especially outdoor portraits.

If you plan on lugging it around you wouldn't want a Green Monster(Calumet) Fine in the studio though.
A Kodak 2D would be easier and there are plenty out there at affordable prices. An Agfa Ansco Universal might be another worth looking at.
A 14" Commercial Ektar is a fine lens if you can find one at an affordable price. Wollensak made some attractive lenses(the 12" Velostigmat, as well as the Triple Convertible comes to mind.)

 

[138S]

If you plan on lugging it around you wouldn't want a Green Monster(Calumet) Fine in the studio though.

Min 4:35, Burkett is fielding a monster for his refined shootings, the nose of the monster is an APO Tele Xenar 800... but no doubt that a monster is not lightweight.

Anyway, "modern" photographers have weird problems that ancient shooters had solved quite easy