Thinking of Getting an 8x10 View Camera

[Vaughn]

The Fuji W 180mm, inside lettering, might work with 8x10 only if focused much closer than infinity...it is a fine 4x5 and 5x7 lens for me. The newer Fuji W180 (with lettering on the outside) has the smaller coverage...good enough for 5x7.

 

[braxus]

I'd be using it for landscapes so infinity focus is a must.

 

[braxus]

I read in another thread the needed image circle of 322mm, when using a film holder, cuts it down close to 305mm, which is what the 180mm lens covers. So I binned a cheap Fujinon 180mm W (cost less then the 210mm), and will pay for that next Friday. If it vignettes in the corners, I could always photoshop it out or crop the image. I imagine the vignette will be very small if any.

 

[braxus]

My seller was asking about my tripod. I'm sure it's fine but I'd thought I'd ask anyway. It's a Manfrotto 455B (similar to 055) with a 141rc head. I don't know the specs on either piece, so am I ok with a 12 pound 8x10 camera and heavy lens?

Also what backpack is big enough to hold the Ansco and 3 film holders?

 

[Ian Grant]

I think the tripod is similar to my own Manfrotto, the head is. I've switched the head and use an old Gitzo head I picked up at a Camera Fair from a bargain box as it gives far better stability. I'm not keen on that style of head and found it awkward particularly with a large camera sat on top, the Gitzo isn't 3 way just pan and tilt but has a much longer arm which makes it easier and quicker to use. Of course this is partially personal preference.

Ian

 

[KenS]

Like a few others, I would shy away from the very heavy Calumet. It will make your experience in the field a lot less pleasant. I recommend a wooden Kodak which not exactly a field camera but it is a LOT lighter to carry. Even an old B&J, although they often need a bit of tightening. I use a Kodak Master 8x10 now and it is relatively light. I can easily carry it plus a few lenses in a (very large) kit bag. However, they usually sell for more than your budget, but before that I used an old wooden Ansco (I just realized that I still have it in the basement. I will send you an email).

If I may.. I will 'second' the motion on the much experienced Burke and James 'woodie'
as of today I still make use of it with my 250mm lens (the longest for my 4x5 Linhof monorail, but a really nice 'wide angle for 8x10. but 'sadly'... little room for shift/rise movement.

Ken

 

[braxus]

Well I plan on purchasing the Ansco in a weeks time, and will hopefully get it in the mail by months end, depending on how slow Canada Post is with Xmas deliveries. Im also getting the 5x7 back for the camera, so I have that option as well. I missed out on some less expensive film holders, but that will have to wait till next year regardless. Film is another thing, but again that's next year. I will see if those two Fuji lenses I have will cover enough to be usable, though Im told no. I currently have both the 180 and 210 which only have 305mm coverage, yet Im told with the film holders in the mix, it might just be enough. If not, I can always Photoshop the edges to fill in the missing corners. All my 8x10 films will be scanned, unless I need a custom contact print made up. Im told B&W contact prints are gorgeous. Speaking of scanning, my old Epson 2400 has to go, as I will need to get the new V850.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Totally unrelated. But I'm curious. I shoot a MF camera so I'm not familiar with tilts etc. When you do these adjustments, does the light falloff or is it equal across the whole film?

 

[braxus]

Depends on coverage of the lens. The smaller the coverage, the more you'll deal with light fall off. But it shouldn't be an issue with many lenses.

 

[Vaughn]

Totally unrelated. But I'm curious. I shoot a MF camera so I'm not familiar with tilts etc. When you do these adjustments, does the light falloff or is it equal across the whole film?

Also depends if they are front or back movements, and if the movements are on the lens axis or not. Back movements of tilt and swing stay within the cone of light thrown by the lens.

 

[alanrockwood]

Also if I went with a f9 lens, would I still get some shallow depth of field and be easy enough to see on the ground glass? Also do the Fujinon 300mm f5.6 lenses have coverage and work on 8x10 cameras? These seem inexpensive enough and are well regarded in large format lenses.

Depth of field gets less as the format gets larger, assuming the f-number is held constant. (For simplicity, Let's assume the angle of view is also the the same for the two formats.) An f9 lens in 8x10 format will have the same depth of field as an f1.2 lens in 35mm format. Therefore, if shallow depth of field is what you are after an f9 lens will be just fine.

 

[Luis-F-S]

How good does your Fuji 180mm cover 8x10? The info I saw says it only covers 305mm which isn't quite enough for 8x10. Can you confirm? The 180mm seems like a better choice in terms of framing for both 4x5 and 8x10. 26mm in 8x10 and 58mm for 4x5. Is there some W lenses in 180mm that are better then others? Or some I should avoid?

The widest lens I use on 810 is a 6 1/2" WA Dagor. Not the cheapest lens, but way cheaper than a 165 SA and way smaller. None of the real WA choices are going to be "cheap". Covers 8x10 with movement. Mine is an older one uncoated which I had mounted in a Copal 1. Works like a charm. L

 

[Richard Man]

An 8x10 is an order of ... "more", than a 4x5. One can lug a 4x5 with half a dozen film holders and 2-3 lens in a 30 lbs pack, but an 8x10 by itself is 10-12 lbs, and each holder is a pound+! And the tripod is larger too.

Having said that, I enjoy the experience. I am going to sell my Tachihara and get a Chamonix Alpinist though, as the Alpinist does not have a rotating back, so it's less than 6 lbs (for an 8x10!!!!!!). I will get it in the vertical orientation as I use it mainly for portraits.

 

[Richard Man]

As for lenses, I have a 14" Dagor and a 480mm APO-Ronar. They cover my portrait needs. I have a Nikkor 300/9 and a Fuji 240/9 A for the wider-look. I even used the SS 110XL for fun once in a while.

 

[eric antonio]

Everyone who wants to get an 8x10 always want a "lightweight" camera so they can go and get magnificent landscapes (me included). The truth is, if you go 810, be realistic with how much you need to carry for a shoot. Camera/holders/darkcloth/loupe/holders/lens[es]/meter/backup meter/tripod/backpack to carry everything. Unless you want to spend more money on a carbon tripod, you probably can get a cheaper aluminum one but it'll be heavy. And a good tripod head.

Also, bigger stuff for processing this stuff.

I've had garden carts and jogging strollers to carry all those before. Eventually, I just park somewhere close, have most of the stuff in a pelican, and just walk back and forth to the car. I mean, you can't rush LF, so whats a couple of trips back to the car?

Hiking with a field 4x5 and all the above is not much heaver, could be lighter, than a lot of medium format cameras.

Agree with most of the suggestions. Start with a 300 normal. 210 for a wide but it'll cost you. Just like most of my equipment, I wind up using my "normal" and "wide" for 90% of my stuff.

Also, if you can, try to get an 8x10 that can have a 4x5 back. Eventually you may want that.

Most important, have FUN and don't overthink!!!

I've seen a lot of intrepid cameras do good work. Focusing looks a little challenging but you can certainly try it out to see if you like the format. I've worked with a lot of C1's and Deardorffs and had old a** Korona before. Gaffer's tape and A-Clamps are your friend. Maybe the intrepid may be a good solution and bring some Aclamps to hold things down to make sure nothing moves after you focus.

 

[braxus]

Camera is on its way. I should have it by Jan 2nd here, if not sooner. I still need to get the 5x7 back next month from him. Then later on worry about getting the change bag, scanner, film, film holders, and more lens boards. I'll see about getting a 300/360mm lens down the road.

 

[Neil Poulsen]

I had a Calumet black 8x10 camera, and it was heavy. (Heavy cameras need heavy tripods.) It has all the needed movements, and then some. The Green Monster Calumet might work. It was made of magnesium alloy and weighs about 15 lbs or so. (If I were to purchase one, I would ask about weight up front.)

Many wood cameras to which Vaughn refers have enough movements for landscape. My preference would be for an 8x10 with front tilt. An 8x10 Ansco would be a good find, if it's in reasonable condition and light tight. Unlike 4x5, you don't need bag bellows for moderate wide-angle photography. 8x10 wide-angle lenses that require a bag bellows are very expensive.

The 300mm f5.6 lenses aren't that large, so go for that one for the portrait depth of field. I've been looking for a 300mm and have my eyes peeled for a Fujinon 300mm f5.6 with inside-lettering. Theses are older, single coated optics, that have an excellent image circle. Kodak Ektars are Tessar lenses and don't have the image circle of a Plasmat, like the Fujinon above.

But, look for the smaller lenses (f9, f10, etc.) above a 300mm focal length. For example, even the 360mm (f6.8?) Symmar-S is a huge and heavy lens. Although more expensive, the 355mm G-Claron is a very nice option. (It's single coated.) Absolutely huge image circle stopped down.

You might consider beginning with an 8x10 camera and a 300mm f5.6 that are reasonably priced, and then wait for reasonably priced lenses in other focal lengths. For example, my 450mm Q Nikon (single coated version of Nikon's 450mm M) lens was about $325. Believe it or not, I purchased a Repro-Claron coated 610mm lens for about the same price. I had multi-coated optics, decided to stick with all single-coated, and saved a ton of money. And, I like the look of single-coated optics on 8x10. My primary sources of lenses are EBay and the Large Format site.

A lens that would be excellent for moderate wide angle landscape work is a 250mm Fujinon f6.7. It's single-coated, has a large image circle (for a Plasmat) of 389mm, and it's usually reasonably priced. The f6.7 is an example of inside lettering.

I also have some older Arca equipment, and along comes an older style 8x10 conversion kit that I purchased for under $400. Combining the two, I ended up with a fully functional, very nice 8x10. So, workable, good deals do come along.

 

[braxus]

Well my Ansco came to $400 Canadian plus $50 for some accessories, so the seller gave me a generous price on his gear. I'm so thankful as it would have taken me much longer to get a camera otherwise. I'm on a tight budget every month.

 

[Cary Lee]

I too use my Kodak 2d. they work perfect for me and very inexpensive to maintain.

 

[braxus]

I received the camera today! It came in undamaged condition and it all looks as it should. Next step is to get the 5x7 back next month. Then later the accessories needed.

 

[awty]

Looks great, just check it for light leaks, be easy to fix if there are any and get shooting.

 

[braxus]

I have a question after receiving this camera. For the life of me, I can't see a serial number anywhere stamped on this thing. Where is it supposed to be? The metal Ansco plate on the bed platform doesn't have a number on it, so I am at a loss where else it would be.

 

[braxus]

I think I found the number. It was hiding under the rear sliding rail, next to the hinge. Its a really low number (*79). I find it hard to believe they only made a few hundred of the USA version.

 

[eric antonio]

I received the camera today! It came in undamaged condition and it all looks as it should. Next step is to get the 5x7 back next month. Then later the accessories needed.

Outstanding purchase!!
You will be happy with this for sure.

 

[Neil Poulsen]

. . . $600 for camera, $300-400 for lens, and $140-200 for some film holders per 2. $30 for a new lens board.

The Calumet green monster might be a good option. You'll need a sturdy tripod, though. The Calumet will also have the bellows draw for landscape.

I had the heavy Calumet for a while, and some 8x10 Deardorff boards will fit. You could consider a reduction lensboard. (To Dearldorff 5x7 or Technika.) It can also be an option to make boards using hobby plywood.

For a 300mm lens, consider a 300mm Fuji with inside lettering. Or, one of the the older convertible Schneider Symmars. (Both single coated.) Less expensive, and both have good coverage.