New to Me Minolta Autocord

[Nokton48]

Rick Oleson has a split-image screen that can be fitted to the Autocord. I handled one at Midwest Photo Exchange ( Autocord so modified) and it was SWEET. Bay 30 B&W filters are available on ebay. Also generic Bay 30 lenscaps. Karl sold me a generic lens cap for five bucks. If your camera needs work Karl can change out the screen if you want at the same time.

 

[GRHazelton]

I too have one of these little beauties. I think it is from the early production run although it has the normal/standard Rokkor lens and a copal shutter. It came with the box, original instructions, neck strap and lenshood. What was missing is the lens cap so if anyone has a spare...…..(big hint) Otherwise it is mint but will have a CLA because the focussing lever is quite stiff.

It is interesting to discover that series 1 filters are a bit hard to find, especially ones for B&W. I have a yellow green but would like a plain yellow or an orange.

The focussing screen is unmarked, but is a plain ground glass, did they ever make a split image screen?

For Bayonet 1 filters, try Filterfind.net Tim Rice is the go-to man. Note that many "cheap" Bayonet 1 lens shades attach to the INNER bayonet mount, preventing the use of a filter. Look for those which fit on the outer bayonet, they free the inner mount for a filter. I scored a Kalcor hood which fits perfectly to the outer bayonet Sadly the outer ones are generally more expensive, those marked Rollei especially so, Another path is a bayonet 1 to series adapter, this lets you use a wide range of series filter lens shades. Not as elegant, but cheaper. Again, filterfind.net is the place to go. BTW close up work with TLRs involves a lens for the taking lens, and for the viewing lens a lens with a prism to correct for parallax error. If you can find one and have a tripod, a device called a Paramender (IIRC) will raise the camera after focusing to a taking position where the taking lens sees what the focus lens did. Elegant but slow. A SLR is the rational way to shoot closeups.
butkus.org will have an instruction manual for the Autocord. Send Mike a contribution so he can continue this wonderful site.
edit I just noticed that you have the original instruction manual. Good on ya!

 

[Nokton48]

My Minolta Light Meters by Nokton48, on Flickr


Some filters here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yashica-TL...var=572230329230&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[Bikerider]

For Bayonet 1 filters, try Filterfind.net Tim Rice is the go-to man. Note that many "cheap" Bayonet 1 lens shades attach to the INNER bayonet mount, preventing the use of a filter. Look for those which fit on the outer bayonet, they free the inner mount for a filter. I scored a Kalcor hood which fits perfectly to the outer bayonet Sadly the outer ones are generally more expensive, those marked Rollei especially so, Another path is a bayonet 1 to series adapter, this lets you use a wide range of series filter lens shades. Not as elegant, but cheaper. Again, filterfind.net is the place to go. BTW close up work with TLRs involves a lens for the taking lens, and for the viewing lens a lens with a prism to correct for parallax error. If you can find one and have a tripod, a device called a Paramender (IIRC) will raise the camera after focusing to a taking position where the taking lens sees what the focus lens did. Elegant but slow. A SLR is the rational way to shoot closeups.
butkus.org will have an instruction manual for the Autocord. Send Mike a contribution so he can continue this wonderful site.
edit I just noticed that you have the original instruction manual. Good on ya!

Thanks for your two replies, but as I am in UK it is an impractical proposition to send the camera over there. We have a very good company here who bought up all the available Minolta manual and AF spares when the company was closed. I have used the firm for quite a few Minolta related (and other) repairs/servicing. As for a Butkus copy of the manual I have an original.

 

[Nokton48]

Autocord Seiko MX Instructions 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Autocord Seiko MX Instructions 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Autocord Seiko MX Instructions 3 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Autocord Seiko MX Instructions 4 by Nokton48, on Flickr

 

[ant!]

I use a Bay 1 filter set from Rollei which fits fine, it has a lens hood, filters (light yellow, medium yellow, red, green, UV) and the Rolleinar 1 and 2 close-up attachments. All these work great with the Autocord. I saw this kit already in various versions, I guess buyers could chose which filters are in... Here is mine:

And I have a Minolta Autopole polarizer, which works pretty well. It consists of two connected filters, so you can see the polarization effect even with a TLR.

 

[macfred]

I use a Bay 1 filter set from Rollei which fits fine, it has a lens hood, filters (light yellow, medium yellow, red, green, UV) and the Rolleinar 1 and 2 close-up attachments.

Great kit in very good shape - looks like it left the factory yesterday ...

 

[Bikerider]

I would be happy to use Ser 1 Rollie filters but they are not that easy to find in good condition

 

[Nokton48]

Minolta Autocord Griptac Mini Release by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here's the Griptac installed, and mini soft release. Both of these items do improve camera handling.

I'm on my third roll of HP5+. When I get enough to fill my big JOBO drum I'll run all the rolls.

Really enjoying the experience of using this camera.

 

[campy51]

I am joining the club. I just ordered one that has a stuck focus lever but everything else looks good except missing some leather on lower crank side. I have done some reading on the stiff focus and I am hoping I can fix the lever but will most likely be sending it off for a cleaning. I will give a quick look see when I get it. I have read putting lighter fluid a few drops at a time around the helical and letting it work it's way down and loosening the dried grease has worked to free it up. I won't get too involved but would be nice if I could put a roll through before sending it off.

 

[wjlapier]

Congrats! Good idea to buy one but I'd send it off to Karl Bryan. Personally, I'd have him do everything like the leatherette and CLA, and maybe the Oleson focusing screen. My Autocord is so nice since it went to Karl. You wouldn't believe the condition it was in and what he did to fix it. I was actually shocked but pleasantly!

 

[moto-uno]

^ Is there a chance you could tell us what a service like that might have cost ? Peter

 

[Dan Daniel]

I am joining the club. I just ordered one that has a stuck focus lever but everything else looks good except missing some leather on lower crank side. I have done some reading on the stiff focus and I am hoping I can fix the lever but will most likely be sending it off for a cleaning. I will give a quick look see when I get it. I have read putting lighter fluid a few drops at a time around the helical and letting it work it's way down and loosening the dried grease has worked to free it up. I won't get too involved but would be nice if I could put a roll through before sending it off.

If you remove the focus hood- 4 screws around the top edge- you'll be able to access the helical. But if the lever is not moving at all, I would just pack it up and ship it out for an overhaul. Too much risk of breaking the lever assembly. And usually if the lever is gummed up other things are also gummed up.

 

[campy51]

If you remove the focus hood- 4 screws around the top edge- you'll be able to access the helical. But if the lever is not moving at all, I would just pack it up and ship it out for an overhaul. Too much risk of breaking the lever assembly. And usually if the lever is gummed up other things are also gummed up.

The description said it was not moving. I would like to see if I can fix it myself since it's not an expensive camera. I saw this.
https://fredmath.wixsite.com/minolta-autocord-en/focus-lever

 

[Konical]

Good Evening,

"Too much risk of breaking the lever assembly. And usually if the lever is gummed up other things are also gummed up."

Yes, Dan is correct. send it to Karl Bryan. He did great work on my Autocord a year or so ago. Not only that, he's fast, doesn't overcharge, and communicates in a very pleasant manner. Couldn't ask for a better experience.

Konical

 

[wjlapier]

^ Is there a chance you could tell us what a service like that might have cost ? Peter

Mine was an exception to the usual I'd assume. It really needed some special work done. ~$200 for the new leather installed, Rick Oleson screen installed and CLA and some parts replaced.

 

[moto-uno]

All that plus the Rick Oleson screen , that sounds really cheap to me, lucky you . Peter

 

[wjlapier]

I'm very happy with the camera and the images it can create. Here is a little bit of advice from Karl re: the 1/500th shutter speed.

"Please be aware that on a Seikosha shutter (which your camera has) you cannot go to/from the 1/500 second setting if the shutter is cocked. The highest speed setting uses a booster spring that has to be engaged prior to cocking the shutter. So, if you find you want to go to/from the 1/500 second setting and the shutter is cocked, cover the lens, fire the shutter, set new shutter speed, use the double exposure button next to the film crank, wind the film crank counterclockwise (opposite of normal), you have now cocked the shutter without moving the film, ready for you to take a picture. The Seikosha shutter is a Japanese improvement on the Compur shutters used in Rolleiflex TLRs (which also have the 1/500 second operating constraint). I prefer the Seikosha shutter over the Optiper/Citizen shutters, much more reliable."

 

[campy51]

I finished the focus lever repair and cleaned the lenses and viewfinder. I didn't touch the shutter since everything seemed fine according to my iphone app for shutter speeds. I ordered new covering and mirror.
Here is one from the first roll. I printed an 8x10 just to see if it looks as good as on the monitor and I think it's more impressive. I'm glad I found this post it motivated me to find one and try it out.

 

[Nokton48]

Looking Good

 

[Nokton48]

Autocord Hood 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Snagged this Autocord lens hood for $25 including original case. Came with petrified scotch tape around the outside, which will clean up OK.

Recommend this hood, stays where it should, and allows use of all my filters, including my Spiratone B30 ones.

 

[eli griggs]

Mine is great, sharp and, well, simply beautiful images, esp. with Acros 100, however, it has a small light leak I have yet to track down.

Don't change shutter speed from or to 500th sec. as, If I recall correctly that can damage the mechanism.

Also, I like 100% black wool for light seals, in case you need to make a repair.

Last, look for "Series VI" filters or 40.5mm filters for use with Bay 30, etc adapters, it's cheaper,IMO, and the FSU 40.5 filters can be great.

I am still looking to fill out my own B&W colour filter set, as well as Hasselblad Bay 60 - 67mm sets and Either Series or threaded filters will work great with the proper, well made adapter, but do yourself a good deed and buy well made adapters in pairs, so you can have a spare on hand when out in the wilds of anywhere but home.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Mine is great, sharp and, well, simply beautiful images, esp. with Acros 100, however, it has a small light leak I have yet to track down.

Check for missing or loose screws. Focus scale at each end. Spools knobs. Inside body at take up spool isa flat metal spring plate that should have two screws- the holes go through to film chamber. Back, two screws holding pressure plate in place. Bottom of back, center disk has three screws and should be tight. Check two feet for being bent and creating a leak- electrical tape will fix.

Check back for smooth fit all along body joint. Shouldn't be loose. Crimps and such are obvious problems.

Felt trap on leading edge of back where it mates with body at bottom.

 

[GRHazelton]

Mine is great, sharp and, well, simply beautiful images, esp. with Acros 100, however, it has a small light leak I have yet to track down.

Don't change shutter speed from or to 500th sec. as, If I recall correctly that can damage the mechanism.

Also, I like 100% black wool for light seals, in case you need to make a repair.

Last, look for "Series VI" filters or 40.5mm filters for use with Bay 30, etc adapters, it's cheaper,IMO, and the FSU 40.5 filters can be great.

I am still looking to fill out my own B&W colour filter set, as well as Hasselblad Bay 60 - 67mm sets and Either Series or threaded filters will work great with the proper, well made adapter, but do yourself a good deed and buy well made adapters in pairs, so you can have a spare on hand when out in the wilds of anywhere but home.

Re: the 1/500 speed - Don't change when shutter is cocked! If you don't have an owner's manual, see https://www.butkus.org/chinon/minolta.htm And send Brother Butkus a little green so he can keep up the good work.

 

[eli griggs]

Dan, GR, thank you both, for your advice!

Yes, the shutter, when cocked is the issue, I do have the Butkus Manual.

I will go over those spots, to double check for light leaks. The camera is one I have from Sandy King and its in great shape, with no dents, etc, so finding out if those spots are the cause, should be easy as anything out of sorts will soon sort itself!

Cheers!