Large Format X-Ray Photo

[Cholentpot]

Century Graphic 2x3, Kodak Min-R, Rodinal 1:100 7 minutes.
The film got jammed in the holder and the darkslide handle broke off on this sheet. I changed up my agitation method for my next batch of sheets which I have yet to scan.

I'm curious however as to how this would do in a stand development. There's less of a chance of scratches if I don't agitate.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Century Graphic 2x3, Kodak Min-R, Rodinal 1:100 7 minutes.
The film got jammed in the holder and the darkslide handle broke off on this sheet. I changed up my agitation method for my next batch of sheets which I have yet to scan.

I'm curious however as to how this would do in a stand development. There's less of a chance of scratches if I don't agitate.

Is it single-sided film? I've done semi-stand with Ektascan, which is single-sided. The film was stood vertically in tubes. Double-sided was done with hangers. Full on stand was very risky. I had better luck with semi-stand, 10sec agitation every 15 min. in Pyrocat-HD. I found Rodinal useless for stand compared to Pyrocat-HD.

 

[Cholentpot]

Is it single-sided film? I've done semi-stand with Ektascan, which is single-sided. The film was stood vertically in tubes. Double-sided was done with hangers. Full on stand was very risky. I had better luck with semi-stand, 10sec agitation every 15 min. in Pyrocat-HD. I found Rodinal useless for stand compared to Pyrocat-HD.

Yep. Single sided.

I figured out that in some of the photos there's a shadow, you can see it on the photo I posted on the left half of photo. Those are the posts that the film is sitting in in the developer. I need to give the tank a better shake next time I think.

What kind of tubes are you using?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yep. Single sided.

I figured out that in some of the photos there's a shadow, you can see it on the photo I posted on the left half of photo. Those are the posts that the film is sitting in in the developer. I need to give the tank a better shake next time I think.

What kind of tubes are you using?

BTZS tubes. Developer is filled to the top, film is slipped in, tubes capped, rolled for a minute, stood up and left to sit for 15 min, rolled for 5 sec, stand 15 min, repeat until time runs out. I find it helps to pull the film out, and invert, then re-insert after first 15 min as it can become kiltered.

 

[Cholentpot]

BTZS tubes. Developer is filled to the top, film is slipped in, tubes capped, rolled for a minute, stood up and left to sit for 15 min, rolled for 5 sec, stand 15 min, repeat until time runs out. I find it helps to pull the film out, and invert, then re-insert after first 15 min as it can become kiltered.

You're developing in the dark then.

I don't have that luxury as of yet so I gotta stick to something else.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

You're developing in the dark then.

I don't have that luxury as of yet so I gotta stick to something else.

Nope. Safelight.
I wouldn't suggests stand/semi-stand development in anything but hangers or something that keeps the film vertical. When I do employ this technique, it's always semi-stand.

 

[DH_Studio]

Could be. I bought an SP445 and it's not gone well for me. But perhaps it works well for you? Everybody works differently

Nokton, were you ever able to work out how to safely process with the SP-445? I ordered one off B&H after having read positive reviews there (which I take with a grain of salt) but have since been warned (here on Photrio) that people have had some major issues with the Stearmans causing some pretty significant issues.

 

[MattKing]

Stearman Press is a major supporter of Photrio - a partner.
If you wish to contact them directly, there are lots of ways: https://www.photrio.com/forum/forums/partner-stearman-press.399/

 

[Cholentpot]

Nokton, were you ever able to work out how to safely process with the SP-445? I ordered one off B&H after having read positive reviews there (which I take with a grain of salt) but have since been warned (here on Photrio) that people have had some major issues with the Stearmans causing some pretty significant issues.

Stearman is awesome. Worth every penny. If you're using X-ray you might want to be a little easygoing on the agitation though. Don't want to introduce any scratches.

 

[DH_Studio]

Stearman Press is a major supporter of Photrio - a partner.
If you wish to contact them directly, there are lots of ways: https://www.photrio.com/forum/forums/partner-stearman-press.399/

I already bought a SP tank, after hearing about someone having difficulty I wanted to find out if they were able to resolve their difficulty using the same model.

 

[MattKing]

I already bought a SP tank, after hearing about someone having difficulty I wanted to find out if they were able to resolve their difficulty using the same model.

Yes - but you should also consider reaching out to the designer and manufacturer, because a review of their participation here makes it clear that they work really hard to satisfy customers.

 

[Nokton48]

Nokton, were you ever able to work out how to safely process with the SP-445? I ordered one off B&H after having read positive reviews there (which I take with a grain of salt) but have since been warned (here on Photrio) that people have had some major issues with the Stearmans causing some pretty significant issues.

I was having some issues with 9x12 holders and glass plates. The glass would trim off material when inserted and generated some floaties. I went to tray processing by inspection and actually I prefer that. Just love watching the image coming up under deep red light

 

[Nokton48]

Sinar Norma 18x24 Lisco Holders by Nokton48, on Flickr

Three additional original Sinar Norma era 18x24cm Lisco holders. They came from Germany good deal but no dark slides. Catlabs has replacements at what I thought was a fair price so now cleaning these up to use.

These will hold 18x24 Kodak single sided Mammography film. I have about 500 sheets in stock so set for a while. The 8x10 Norma grounglass is very accurately marked for use with these holders.

Sinar Norma 18x24 Lisco Holders XRAY by Nokton48, on Flickr

As you can see the 18x24cm Mammo XRAY stock fits perfectly in the Norma holder. This will make nice size contact prints. I envision split printing these negs. I got the idea for a contact printing light source that works with the big Multigrade filters. I got the idea from Tim Layton and followed his lead. These negs could benefit from being split-filtered to really nail the tonality.

 

[Cholentpot]

Here's some shots out of my newly CLA'd Crown Graphic.

Kodak Min-R, Rodinal 1:100 7min.

I have a stock of normal film for now, I'll keep shooting Xray for testing or walk around. It got me to where I need to be via loading the holders and handling the sheets for development and general use of large format. I think I'm ready to move to something with some more dynamic range (and less scratching).

 

[Cholentpot]

More shots from the Crown Graphic.

f/10, 1/100. I just realized that I used HC-110 instead of Rodinal. I was wondering why the image was so soft looking to me.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

More shots from the Crown Graphic.

f/10, 1/100. I just realized that I used HC-110 instead of Rodinal. I was wondering why the image was so soft looking to me.

More shots from the Crown Graphic.

f/10, 1/100. I just realized that I used HC-110 instead of Rodinal. I was wondering why the image was so soft looking to me.

I use Fuji HRT. It has an emulsion on both sides so it can have a problem with halation. But this is the charm of the film.

 

[Nokton48]

5x7 Sinar Norma Twin Lens HRU Ortho+Mic-X by Nokton48, on Flickr

Left is Ilford Commercial Ortho+ 5x7 Schneider 240mm f5.6 chrome Componon Sinar Norma Shutter 4 seconds. Lighting was 45 left Broncolor Pulso Softbox in close. Ambient lighting 250W modeling lamp only no flash. Silver fill panel 45 left just off camera. Shooting wide open with 5x7 Sinar Norma early version film holders

Right is 5x7 Fuji HRU XRay film 1/2 second F5.6 Schneider 240mm f5.6 Componon wide open. Sinar Norma Automatic Shutter

Good to have a choice of negatives.

 

[Cholentpot]

I use Fuji HRT. It has an emulsion on both sides so it can have a problem with halation. But this is the charm of the film.

I'm finding that under sunshine the film can be softer than other lighting. I'd assume otherwise but who knows.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I'm finding that under sunshine the film can be softer than other lighting. I'd assume otherwise but who knows.

I like to test film before I go out and shoot with it. The softness can work well if it's what you're looking for. Portraits come to mind. I think the softness to be picky is really lower contrast from not having an anti-halation layer. Light goes through the film and disperses. It's green sensitive and not panchromatic so warmer colors will photograph darker. The advantage is it can be processed under a red safelight.

 

[Algo después]

I was finally able to get 4 reserve boxes of Fuji HRU 18x24. Until now I had only tried Kodak Carestream MXG cutting it into 9x12 format for my Zeiss Ikon Maximar 207. I recently started shooting with an 18 x24 FKD (with a 240mm Componon) and now, beyond dealing with scratches, one of The dilemmas has been deciphering when I should remove the film from the developer. I develop in trays, under inspection, but at least with HRU I have had a hard time recognizing the times in the developer. I have seen the negative start to emerge with the MXG but with HRU I am always nipping at the heels of the underdevelopment or the overdevelopment. I work with a developer named F1252M (1: 1)
until I can get more of D76 back.

with the last pic I just confirmed that I should change my safe light

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I was finally able to get 4 reserve boxes of Fuji HRU 18x24. Until now I had only tried Kodak Carestream MXG cutting it into 9x12 format for my Zeiss Ikon Maximar 207. I recently started shooting with an 18 x24 FKD (with a 240mm Componon) and now, beyond dealing with scratches, one of The dilemmas has been deciphering when I should remove the film from the developer. I develop in trays, under inspection, but at least with HRU I have had a hard time recognizing the times in the developer. I have seen the negative start to emerge with the MXG but with HRU I am always nipping at the heels of the underdevelopment or the overdevelopment. I work with a developer named F1252M (1: 1)
until I can get more of D76 back.


View attachment 277088

with the last pic I just confirmed that I should change my safe light

View attachment 277089

Is this double-sided film? And if so, are you using flat-bottomed trays?

 

[Algo después]

Is this double-sided film? And if so, are you using flat-bottomed trays?

Yes, I think this Fuji Super hru is double sided. I work with some baking sheets. In my case, the negative usually arises between 40-70 seconds using stock and room temperature (20 degrees ish). With these times most of the time I get a negative with poor development or one that is too thin, almost nonexistent. I also estimate that my safelight must be affecting
the development process.

 

[Cholentpot]

I got some of my cleanest negatives using Min-R last week. I developed in a Stearman but this time I did a partial stand. 7.5 min Rodinal 1:100 one flip about halfway. No more scratches.

 

[Ryan Oliveira]

Has anyone ever tried reversal processing Fuji HRU Green X-ray film (B&W positive) ?
I've been thinking about it for a while, but I've never seen anyone doing it. Is there any major problems that I should be aware of ?
I know the base isn't clear, rather it's blue, but that's not a problem for me.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Has anyone ever tried reversal processing Fuji HRU Green X-ray film (B&W positive)?

I've done this successfully once, but it is quite a fiddly process given the delicate nature of the film. Just follow the 'normal' b&w reversal process with extra care taken to harden the emulsion. In my case, I developed in rodinal (but perhaps a pyro developer would toughen up the emulsion sooner), applied a stop bath augmented with chrome alum, and used a dichromate bleach. Standard permanganate based bleach quickly destroyed the emulsion with every attempt.

All the extra handling means more opportunity for scratches and all the extra chrome is inherently more toxic but it can be done.