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Cholentpot

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Cut the film. Got four 4x5 sheets out of two full sized sheets. Three went into holders to shoot and one is in holder as it was a redlight test.

Anyone got developing ideas on this emulsion? Carestream Min-R. I have D-76, HC110 (Old formula) and Rodinal. I've been seeing ISO 100, 6 min 1:100. I've also seen contrary. Anyone with experience?
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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A lot of folks are using Rodinal. Seems like a good place to start.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Maybe try it at 1:50? Set your timer to six minutes. Look at the shadow detail, it it enough for your uses? Set another 4 minutes and keep going with it.
Yesterday I did one for 16 minutes.

Whatever works?

Try it and see

This isn't photographic film

I make notes
 
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Cholentpot

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Maybe try it at 1:50? Set your timer to six minutes. Look at the shadow detail, it it enough for your uses? Set another 4 minutes and keep going with it.
Yesterday I did one for 16 minutes.

Whatever works?

Try it and see

This isn't photographic film

I make notes

I've used microfilm before, I got good results shooting at 25 and developing in 1:200 for two hours stand. This Xray film is a different beast, gonna take some learning.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Today I am trying some Kodak MIN-R Mammography film. I cutting it down into 4x5s, I get two sheets plus waste. If it were 8x10 instead of 18x24cm I think I could get four 4x5s? 375 watt second Broncolor C171 Pulso monolight studio strobe, with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish attached about 2 feet from some lovely live Orchids. Same grey canvas I used above for the shot of the Maki Std ^^

4x5 Sinar Norma with Norma shutter, 210mm chrome Schneider Componon at F22. Did two pops of the C171 and also six pops. The six pop was too dense and two looked pretty good. So I took two more, 1 pop, then 3 pops. 8 minutes at 68F Mic-X straight replenished in a tray.

All of these films scratch like crazy. Film is drying. Will try to print something later today, will maybe try one more time, minimizing straches (hopefully).

I like this stuff. It's fun
 

Donald Qualls

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I'd gotten the impression you could develop almost anything at 1:200 stand for an hour or two. The developer dies well before that time, but you get all you're going to get from the developer in that time.
 

DWThomas

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1:100 for 6 minutes just sounds wrong you know? How's that itty bit of developer going to do anything in so short of a time?
Hey! It's X-ray film! I have never used Rodinal, but my wanderings in X-ray land have settled on using HC110 (my all film developer) at 1+63 ("Dilution H") and shooting HR-T at EI 50 I get sufficient density and manageable contrast in about 3:30 at 68ºF. The first time I tried it I expected I might be standing there sloshing for twenty minutes, but no siree, I was amazed.
 

Cholentpot

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Hey! It's X-ray film! I have never used Rodinal, but my wanderings in X-ray land have settled on using HC110 (my all film developer) at 1+63 ("Dilution H") and shooting HR-T at EI 50 I get sufficient density and manageable contrast in about 3:30 at 68ºF. The first time I tried it I expected I might be standing there sloshing for twenty minutes, but no siree, I was amazed.

So I'm not the only one who had that thought. Good to know.

I'd gotten the impression you could develop almost anything at 1:200 stand for an hour or two. The developer dies well before that time, but you get all you're going to get from the developer in that time.

Checked my notes. 1:175 two hour stand for 16mm microfilm. The only way I was able to tame the contrast. This X-ray stuff is going to be a fun ride figuring out.

Today I am trying some Kodak MIN-R Mammography film. I cutting it down into 4x5s, I get two sheets plus waste. If it were 8x10 instead of 18x24cm I think I could get four 4x5s? 375 watt second Broncolor C171 Pulso monolight studio strobe, with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish attached about 2 feet from some lovely live Orchids. Same grey canvas I used above for the shot of the Maki Std ^^

4x5 Sinar Norma with Norma shutter, 210mm chrome Schneider Componon at F22. Did two pops of the C171 and also six pops. The six pop was too dense and two looked pretty good. So I took two more, 1 pop, then 3 pops. 8 minutes at 68F Mic-X straight replenished in a tray.

All of these films scratch like crazy. Film is drying. Will try to print something later today, will maybe try one more time, minimizing straches (hopefully).

I like this stuff. It's fun

I guess no fog from your lighting setup with the MIN-R?
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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I decided on Microdol-X cause I want to slow the development down. The image starts coming up in two to three minutes, then development proceeds rather quickly. Microdol-X does seem to restrain it a bit and I kind of like the tonality. If you touch this with anything when wet, it will scratch. The image layer is uber thin which dosen't help
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Nope no fog ever. You don't need to fog test full sheets, save the scraps for that. And for checking your fixer activity
 

Cholentpot

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Nope no fog ever. You don't need to fog test full sheets, save the scraps for that. And for checking your fixer activity

Worth sacrificing one corner just for handling?

Too late, tested full sheet for fogging.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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MINR XRay Test 1 210mm Componon F22 Two Pops C171 by Nokton48, on Flickr

18x24cm Kodak MIN-R Mammography film cut into 4x5s. Sinar Norma Broncolor C171 with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. Two strobe pops with Sinar Norma Shutter, multiple pops are no problem. Schneider chrome Componon lens at F22. Lisco Regal 4x5 film holder

Legacy Mic-X film dev 8 mins at 68F Aristo 8x10 #2 RC print Multigrade dev

This is fun :smile:
 

Donald Qualls

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[QUOTE="This is fun :smile:[/QUOTE]

Affordable large format has that effect. :D
 

MattKing

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I cutting it down into 4x5s, I get two sheets plus waste. If it were 8x10 instead of 18x24cm I think I could get four 4x5s?
If anyone had a 9cm x12cm back I would have thought it would be you!:D
 

Cholentpot

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MINR XRay Test 1 210mm Componon F22 Two Pops C171 by Nokton48, on Flickr

18x24cm Kodak MIN-R Mammography film cut into 4x5s. Sinar Norma Broncolor C171 with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. Two strobe pops with Sinar Norma Shutter, multiple pops are no problem. Schneider chrome Componon lens at F22. Lisco Regal 4x5 film holder

Legacy Mic-X film dev 8 mins at 68F Aristo 8x10 #2 RC print Multigrade dev

This is fun :smile:

Wow. That's amazing.

I took a photo of a hardware store and a pizza joint to test my MIN-R. It expired back in '11 I wonder how this stuff ages.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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If anyone had a 9cm x12cm back I would have thought it would be you!:D

HAH-HAH! :smile:

I have a lot of the Linhof 9x12 holders that can take glass plates; the pressure plates are highly textured and I think that might be a problem with no antihalo on this stuff. Hope I am wrong.

What I need are some 9x12 Liscos (preferable with the Sinar Norma logos) :smile:
 

MattKing

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I have a lot of the Linhof 9x12 holders that can take glass plates; the pressure plates are highly textured and I think that might be a problem with no antihalo on this stuff. Hope I am wrong.
Some "bloom" might actually be good! You should try them.
 

Donald Qualls

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What I need are some 9x12 Liscos (preferable with the Sinar Norma logos) :smile:

What, no 1920s vintage plate cameras with film sheaths? The film sheaths in my Zeiss Ikon Ideal plate holders are nice and smooth, and quite black; I might have to get a box of the 18x24 x-ray film just to have cheap stock for those cameras...
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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I did snag a box of 8x10 Mammography film here a few days ago.
Good to have it both sizes! I have lots of film backs with film sheaths 9x12cm and 6.5x9cm.
Some Voigtlander and Russian ones, unmarked French ones, and of the course the German RADAS.
I have 50+ Plaubel Makina 6.5x9cm holders :smile: Good for this stuff and also J Lanes glass plates
For some reason all I ever see in Mammography film is 18x24.
That size puts a lot of people out I think..........
But good for us and our European camera holders.
 

Cholentpot

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Just pulled the Mammo film out of the tank. Developed via Taco method, Rodinal 1:100 for 6:30. I think I should cut back to 6 dead next time. No major scratches, no fog from safelights, no light leaks. I think the shutter is running slow on the slower speeds though. Rangefinder seems dead on too. And my internal lightmeter is still working. I rated at ISO 100.

However,

The film is blue. It doesn't look under fixed and my fixer is good. Does this film just have a blue base? I can live with it, just want to make sure my methods are working. I'll post a scan tomorrow hopefully.
 
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Nokton48

Nokton48

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Yep the base is very blue. It is what it is. :smile:
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Just pulled the Mammo film out of the tank. Developed via Taco method, Rodinal 1:100 for 6:30. I think I should cut back to 6 dead next time. No major scratches, no fog from safelights, no light leaks. I think the shutter is running slow on the slower speeds though. Rangefinder seems dead on too. And my internal lightmeter is still working. I rated at ISO 100.

However,

The film is blue. It doesn't look under fixed and my fixer is good. Does this film just have a blue base? I can live with it, just want to make sure my methods are working. I'll post a scan tomorrow hopefully.

The blue-tinted base, makes for a more comfortable view and reduces eyestrain...
 

Cholentpot

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Yep the base is very blue. It is what it is. :smile:
The blue-tinted base, makes for a more comfortable view and reduces eyestrain...

Great. Have purple for Tmax and blue for Mammo.

I was 2/3 on exposures. One was possibly user error, I might have left the shutter preview lever open and pulled the darkslide. I did slice some more a little small so they're kind of loose in the holders. Live and learn. I can get two 4x5 and one 2x3 out of a good cutting. Film did not scratch horribly at least from the negatives viewed.
 
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