Next to my enlarger is a drum scanner, and have a "pure sine wave" battery backup by tripp-lite or APC. I've always wondered if it would be a legitimate use of the device to use it to filter the power supply for the enlarger as well.
I'm going to hopefully start printing RA4 this week and I picked up the Kodak 10L kits for Dev and Blix. Just trying to plan my bottle set up.
I'll be using a Nova 12x16 unit that doubles as a B&W processor since my space can run a little bit cold here in Maine, so keeping the working solutions in the tanks at all times is not possible. As per the instructions I could mix up 2L of working solution, then drain after a session into a 2L bottle. But then I need to mix up my replenisher... So I could just have either an accordion bottle for the repenisher and mix it 1lt at a time. Or I could be fancy and get a 2 gallon floating lid container with a spigot. That's what I do for my XTol R solution.
Man how the bottles do add up...
Get a 12v smps with a power rating of at least 150W. Your enlarger bulb will be just as happy with DC as it is with AC.
In a pinch a computer power supply may do fine.
The only issue is that there can be some filter capacitance on the output of the power supply which delays the bulb turnoff for a fraction of a second so exposure times of less than, say, 6 seconds or so may be slightly longer. Depends on the power supply used though. I don't think it'll be an issue with most units.
I was never any good at playing marbles so I've lost mine a long time ago, I'm afraid.Thanks for the help Koraks. I'm getting very good repeatability right now and I think I was just losing my marbles at the time.
Is this not "Rayco Electronics" ? I found their website saying they are a pioneer and innovator of magnetics products since 1941. Well, they didn't reply to my email, but they are answering the phone. You might try them at 1.310.329.2660.
What you can also do is simply plug in a voltmeter like the one you took a picture of. If you already have a voltmeter, make sure it's on "V~" for AC or you'll kill it. If it changes over time, you don't have a voltage regulator. Though if I had to guess, either would work well. 6A is more than you need to pull if my enlarger power math works out.
C41 blix has a bad rep for breaking down but it should not be confused with RA4 blix, which was different properties and is much more stable than C41 blix. As I have written above, I had no problems whatsoever with long term storage of Blix replenisher and tank solution from the RT/LU kit over several years (!) in PET containers and wine bags respectively. Store the blix at normal room temperature it does not like too cold temperatures, IIRC.
I reckon reusing the chemicals would make it difficult to include a prewet and a stop bath. The prewet will dilute your developer over time. The stop bath will change the blix pH over time. OTOH, it might be not relevant as long as you permanent "tank" solution is large enough (something in the 3-5 liter range).
Oh thanks for the help peoplemerge I'll give the number a try. Good idea about plugging in the voltmeter into it too. The voltmeter should be here tomorrow so I'll see what my voltage is like first before I order one of these potential stabilizers.
How does the amp rating work? One of them is. 6A and the other is 13A max but I think UK mains sockets work at 13A. Would the 6A one be alright running off that or is that too high for it? I never paid much attention in physics lessons unfortunately
I have opened RA-4 blix concentrate that has formed residual all round the original bottle. It was opened 5 years ago. Do we think it is good or bad?
It is the SP blix. I've opened a new bottle that looks good.Depends somewhat on who manufactured it. If it's a single concentrate, forget it. If the bleach is separate from the fix, then it's probably the fix desulfering. Toss the fix and try mixing the bleach with an ordinary ammonium thiosulfate fix.
Your 100V device will not play nice with your 230/12V setup. Smoke will ensue, potentially followed by tears.
It's not clear from the picture what the ratings are. Btw, a 100V stabiliser seems a bit odd since there's no common domestic application of 100V. So maybe it's VA in which case it's a power rating (a bit like Watt), but then the voltage is still unclear.
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