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Diffusion Transfer Printing ("Polaroid" peel-apart) recipes

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This weekend I traveled to Seattle to attend a gallery event and demonstrate this process. I shot, processed, and gave away over 100 photos. It started off iffy with no transfer for a reason I'm not sure about, but I skipped a few social outings to lock in and figure it out. I had to switch back to Ilford paper for the negatives.
It's so cool to see someone doing this type of photography at an event. Well done.
 
It's so cool to see someone doing this type of photography at an event. Well done.

Thank you! I would say I took about 60% of the people that got their photo taken into the Ilford darkroom tent to show them how it was processed as well. It was a lot of fun.
 
Have you tried slowing the roller by hand to see if it improves your print density? What was the result?

It seems premature to go to a lot of trouble reengineering the drive when it's so trivially easy to verify if roller speed makes any difference.

I tried this a while back, but sadly, the machine jitters (stops and go), there doesnt' seem to be enough torque at the slowest setting.

Analog, when you shoot ilford paper, what lighting are you using?
And congrats on the demonstration. Your work is excellent!
What chemical mixtures did you end up settling on?

Thanks to both of you!
 
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Analog, when you shoot ilford paper, what lighting are you using?
And congrats on the demonstration. Your work is excellent!
What chemical mixtures did you end up settling on?

Thank you. The lighting from that shoot was a 4 light setup, with speedotron packs, a vflat reflector, and a catch light reflector for the eyes.

The paper used various heavy metal sulfides in silica hydrosol (Lead, Nickel, Copper, Zinc, Palladium), I didn't keep track which is which for the photos. The developer was extremely similar to the one you're using now, I believe.

Experiment with the levels of the various components, you'll eventually find a combo that works well for you.
 
Here's a flatbed scan (Epson v850) from a friend of one of the images I took over the weekend:

IMG_20260226_135328.jpg


No fading or color change apparent after 5 days, the print was never wiped or washed.
 
1000032270.jpg

Really great image from paper I coated tonight!
 
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Recipe for above:

10mL Ludox HS-30
500µL 1% Pb(OAc)₂
250µL 1% Ni(OAc)₂
3 drops 1% Na₂S
2 drops 10% polysorbate 20
Coat @ 10µm
 
Today, I'm trying out the process with a modified laminator machine.

The machine now has a new motor and gear box that gives enough torque at slower speeds. The chain is binding once in a while, but my Mechanical Engineer friend and I will sort this out later.

Moving to Fuji Xray HRU film (8x10" for now).

I do plan to return to multitone paper negatives in the 20x24" size and then 24x32" with orthochromatic paper negatives later.

If all goes well this week, I'll be shooting an art project for a portfolio review here in Toronto. The project will be on my health problems.

I'll upload some photos of the machine later.
It was a simple solution and anyone going the route of ultra large format and bought the same laminating machine or will might like the photos.

@analogwisdom Quick question, for the 1P5MT.
Did you ever find a consistent way of adding it to the receiver formula.
I have no idea how to add it. Could you share some advice?
Thanks so much!
 
@analogwisdom -- not to really try to rain on the parade at all, but I notice you don't credit anyone else when you discuss this work on Instagram. I'm just wondering where you would be on the whole "peel-apart" resurrection without @alecrmyers ? (Note that this has nothing to do with me.)

(Edited to remove screenshots. I was mistaken and apologize.)
 
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@analogwisdom -- not to really try to rain on the parade at all, but I notice you don't credit anyone else when you discuss this work on Instagram. I'm just wondering where you would be on the whole "peel-apart" resurrection without @alecrmyers ? (Note that this has nothing to do with me.)

View attachment 421199

View attachment 421200
from instagram:

1774827974578.png


from an already written instruction document I'm providing to people that I give materials to:

1774828032505.png



from a Q&A with my followers I did on Instagram the other day, that's also currently pinned to my profile as a highlight (where it says Photrio is a link to this thread):
1174.jpg



I'm also working on documentation that will make the info in this long and winding thread more accessible to people in the instant film community that are outside of Photrio. I am passionate about instant film and this process and I want to help make it easier for people who may be less technical than I am. Credit to Alec is already throughout the draft of those documents as well.

I resent the implication. Alec and I chat privately fairly regularly - although it has been a few weeks, but that's mostly because it's been a few weeks since I've been in the cellar to experiment. I haven't done nearly a fraction as much as Alec (who has, seriously?!) but I feel like I've been a positive contributor to this process in my own right, even if it has been small.
 
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Anyway, here's a pdf I made that people who live in the US might find useful.

It's got links for most of the chemicals discussed in this thread, and also all the chemistry equipment and tools you'd need if you don't have any at all. For the chemicals not easily available, I've provided CAS numbers or links that you can contact Artcraft to purchase for you, he will be happy to help.
 

Attachments

  • DIY DTR supplies.pdf
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@analogwisdom Quick question, for the 1P5MT.
Did you ever find a consistent way of adding it to the receiver formula.
I have no idea how to add it. Could you share some advice?
Thanks so much

I have not, I've been on a short hiatus from experimenting and testing during March. I'm going to get back to it soon and I will let you know, though.

How on earth are you coating such giant receiver sheets? I'd imagine a mayer rod and granite slab big enough to coat 32 inches are massively expensive.
 
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