This is the LED you want for the build (warm white, 12volt 20mm diameter)
Building A Professional Grade Shutter Tester
-
A
- Thread starter ic-racer
- Start date
Recent Classifieds
-
For Sale FS: Sinar P2 8x10 Metering Back & Bellows
- Started by B.S.Kumar
-
For Sale Leica 90mm f2.5 Summarit-M
- Started by chriscrawfordphoto
-
Sold Minolta 7000 (Refurbished) w/ 50mm f/1.7
- Started by Acere
-
For Sale FS: RARE Nikkormat FS body for Parts or Repair
- Started by AnselMortensen
-
Sold GONE!...FREE for Shipping Cost: Polaroid 110 Pathfinder Camera Body for Parts or Repair
- Started by AnselMortensen
Forum statistics
Yes, I finally figured it out. Not sure what I'll do with the extra boards. Maybe give them away free if the recipient vows to use them and post a build in progress.
Yes that is the one I ordered, from LED WORLD COMPANY 12v 20mm.
I still need to order the rotary switch , push switches and button caps. Trying to figure out how to avoid buying 100 red caps to get one.
You just got to love instructions that clearly say to use the fake version of anything
FYI: the JLCPCB site flagged the .STL files for containing 0.8mm thin portions. I was told by the .STL creator they have printed fine in the past, so I gave JLCPBC the OK to make the parts. They don't have PLA so my main choices (other than METAL) were resin or ABS. So I'm having them done in ABS, but maybe resin would have been better. I'll find out.
You definitely won't regret going for ABS. It's a very tough plastic that handles wear and tear quite well. Resin on the other hand, while it can produce some very fine detail, tends to be quite brittle. That's why it's mostly used for model making.
After more e-mails about the 0.8 thickness, I cancelled the ABS and wound up ordering all the pieces in resin. The reason I wanted ABS was I thought I'd need to use some self tapping screws and thought that might be better. But after reviewing the construction details, I'd rather use machine screws and make threads in the components with a tap.
Using a 0.8mm nozzle is really big. On my ender I almost always use the stock 0.4mm that comes with it by default.
All filament plastics usually can handle small self tappers, but in my designs I prefer to use a nut ans will always make a space for it.
For tapping into resin, you'll have to work carefully because it is closer to acrylic than anything else.
Ten emails later, JLCPCB (the same company making the PC boards) seems reluctant to make the 3D parts due to 0.8mm thickness (and 0.4mm thickness on one piece) and the file creator won't change the designs to make them thicker.
After my eleventh email to JLCPCB it looks like the parts might actually go into production soon. Anxiously waiting.
The good news is we are talking about a less than $100 order for all the pieces, otherwise this would be some nightmare.
After my eleventh email to JLCPCB it looks like the parts might actually go into production soon. Anxiously waiting.
The good news is we are talking about a less than $100 order for all the pieces, otherwise this would be some nightmare.
Printing thin parts on a printer with too big a nozzle can be hard. You either need to modify the STL file (which is never an easy format to work with) or modify the slicer's settings to make it print small details.
And not all 3D design programs are happy to work with files that are already created. Like Sketchup which notoriously will produce holes in shapes and can't modify things that are already made once they are out of the undo memory.
That's why I use Freecad. Hard as heck to learn and slow to to use but completely parametric so that I can keep on doing iterations of the same design.
Thing is that they run in a production environment, so everything is optimized for speed and convenience. While changing the nozzle probably takes about 5 minutes when everything goes well, they probably don't have fast profiles for the 0.4mm nozzle, so a print can go from taking 4 hours to maybe 8 (it varies a lot from design to design)
And not all 3D design programs are happy to work with files that are already created. Like Sketchup which notoriously will produce holes in shapes and can't modify things that are already made once they are out of the undo memory.
That's why I use Freecad. Hard as heck to learn and slow to to use but completely parametric so that I can keep on doing iterations of the same design.
Thing is that they run in a production environment, so everything is optimized for speed and convenience. While changing the nozzle probably takes about 5 minutes when everything goes well, they probably don't have fast profiles for the 0.4mm nozzle, so a print can go from taking 4 hours to maybe 8 (it varies a lot from design to design)
Good news, all the 3D parts are in production. I hope I paved the way for others to get the parts from JLCPCB as that is the same company that is doing the PC boards.
I am anticipating giving away some of my spare PC boards to stimulate others to build the device here on Phototrio.
I am anticipating giving away some of my spare PC boards to stimulate others to build the device here on Phototrio.
Self tapping screws will work if you are within the walls of the piece. Passed that is the infill region. Tapping would be less effective but it can also work if torque/strain is low.
Best method is via captured nut or pressed inserts.
I like the metal threaded inserts. Not sure if one can melt them into resin or if they need to be slid in place and glued.
For PLA, you need an undersize hole (specificied by the insert type) then heat and push the insert with a soldering iron. The plastic melts and grips the knurls on the insert.
You also ideally need to print with more walls
Hi- New member and (another) DPR refugee:
I built one of these testers last year, but not the light source. It works really well, but the building of it had a couple curves thrown in that I hadn't expected. I thought about the light source, but not sure I need it for the work I do. The tester does require a fairly bright light source, however.
I think Sergei/Serhey mentioned that he started the project because he was doing a lot of work on cameras himself as a hobbiest, and thought the world needed a good tester, so yes, he made it for 'fun'.
Let me know if you have any other questions about the build or use of the tester in the wilds.
What about sensor/laser #3? I was hoping to see some ideas people have for that one. Like some way to hold them to put a leaf shutter between them.
Sorry- when I built my tester, Sensor #3 and Sensor #6 were not real yet, so I haven't ever seen either.
99% of my use of the tester has been SLRs and focal plane shutter testing. It's time for me to do another dive into the product, and add any other functionality that I'm missing...
One trick I discovered with AliExpress is to buy from stores that offer "Fast Delivery". When you reach the minimum order amount (it can come from different stores as long as they participate in the fast shipping program), all your orders will get sent to a consolidation warehouse in China where they are put in a large bag and then mailed together. That way I can say I've received 99% of all my orders within about 2½ weeks. And best of all they don't get mysteriously lost by Canada Post
That is going to look very nice. Ektachrome colors to boot!
I made a little programming board for flashing the firmware to control the device. The 'avrdude' software as installed on my computer is not working like the creator's, so the commands in the Github Wiki for flashing the boads are not working for me. Still trying to iron out the issues with that. If anyone here has flashed this on Mac OSX I'd like to know how you did it.
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:  |