Building A Professional Grade Shutter Tester

[ic-racer]

While gearing up to make a shutter tester in this thread (https://www.photrio.com/forum/threa...heap-easy-it-works.197756/page-5#post-2663014) I came across all the schematics, BOMs, Gerber files and STL files to make a professional grade shutter and exposure tester.
The owner of the project on Github is actively answering questions and the BOM is up to date with currently available components. So, I thought this is a good time to attempt the project, while there is help available.

These are images of the finished product from the Github site: ( https://github.com/srozum/film_camera_tester)

 

[ic-racer]

More pictures from the Github site. I'm especially interested in making the light source for measuring all the light meters, hand held and in all my cameras.

 

[ic-racer]

I got my quote on the 3d parts. Initially it was outrageous ,but I contacted the printer and they had quoted for a commercial rush job, which I told them this was not.

 

[Xylo]

For the 3D parts, it's often worth getting a cheap Ender 3 Pro or similar printer.
If it just wasn't so big, I'd definitely be tempted to build one.
I'll have to check the STL files to see how he isolates the sensors...

 

[ic-racer]

I'll have to check the STL files to see how he isolates the sensors...

Actually the main reason I'm posting this thread is to get that kind of input. I don't have much experience ordering 3D with STL files or ordering circuit boards with Gerber files.

 

[neotil1]

If it just wasn't so big, I'd definitely be tempted to build one.

You can slim it down a ton if all you want is a (super sophisticated) shutter tester, without all the light source/light meter testing stuff. My current setup fits in the palm of my hand and can be powered with 5V USB

I'm currently in the process of upgrading and calibrating my 3D printer, so I don't have any parts other than the frame masks for now.

After a lot of fiddling, I've finally been able to calibrate my X-700 after its overhaul! I should've read the repair manual earlier. It describes the calibration process very nicely. Unfortunately I'm diving in blind with the Konica Hexar RF I have. I have no clue where the flash sync speed trimmer pot is (if it even has one)...

ic-racer called me here, but I don't have that much to add other than that for now. If you want some pictures I can post some tomorrow, but it's really nothing special

 

[ic-racer]

After going through all the files, since I'm new to Arduino I thought flashing the firmware will be a stumbling block for me. Might need some help with that. I have probably done thousands of electrical repairs since the 1960s, but have never soldered those tiny surface components, so that will be interesting too.

I have made a number of shutter speed testers and meter testers in the past, but I'm interested in that standardized light source so I'm going to make the whole thing with the variable intensity lamp. It will then be nice to have the shutter tester modules all in one neat and clean unit rather than what I am currently using as below; light mixing box from 8x10 enlarger, incandescent studio lamp and variac.

 

[Bill Burk]

I met the guy, Serhiy Rozum, who made that light source. We met at Mazzetti’s, a bakery that makes great cakes and donuts but their coffee is just average. We chatted a bit about the light source

 

[rcksdty]

in the process of building one of these Serhiy testers, I've just received the circuit boards from JLCPCB, minimum order for the boards was 5 so I have extras. Pus I also had the sensor holders 3d printed by them. I had tried to print them myself but ran into some problems with the sensor 6 parts fitting together. The light source 3d printed parts I did myself with a Ender 3 V2.
The sensor holder that I had done where done in resin so a bit more dimensional accurate.

 

[ic-racer]

JLCPCB, minimum order for the boards was 5 so I have extras. Pus I also had the sensor holders 3d printed by them

Are you "polygonfuture" on the Github discussion board?

The sensor holder that I had done where done in resin so a bit more dimensional accurate.

I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.

 

[ic-racer]

I met the guy, Serhiy Rozum, who made that light source. We met at Mazzetti’s, a bakery that makes great cakes and donuts but their coffee is just average. We chatted a bit about the light source

Do you know why he designed it? Is he a camera repair person or did he just make it for fun?

 

[Chan Tran]

I wonder what kind of sensor he uses? Ic-racer can you point me to which sensor he uses?

 

[rcksdty]

Are you "polygonfuture" on the Github discussion board?
Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.

I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.

Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.

 

[rcksdty]

Are you "polygonfuture" on the Github discussion board?


I don't have a clue about any of it, so I had to look it up. I guess the resin drips down as the model is formed.

Have you printed or have someone print the sensor #6 components? its very hard to get the parts together (this maybe due to my printer, but everything else ive printed is dimensionally accurate).
The other sensor parts go together fairly easy. Ill talk to Serhiy about it.
I do have a Kyoritsu EF-5000, but that is starting to fail, that's why I decided to build Serhiy's and test/compare against a Kyoritsu. also im building one for a fellow tech in Orlando, FL

 

[ic-racer]

I wonder what kind of sensor he uses? Ic-racer can you point me to which sensor he uses?

Check this post

[2.9.1] - 2023-03-02 · srozum/film_camera_tester · Discussion #13

Version for photosensors PIC0103SL with inverted output signal, instead of normal PIC0903SL (SIC553-04 old part name) This discussion was created from the release [2.9.1] - 2023-03-02.

github.com

 

[ic-racer]

Im am not, ive just been following the discussion there. I'm one of the admins on the "Learn Camera Repair" group on Facebook. Ive been a professional camera repair tech for over 30 years.

I’m not on facebook but hope you can contribute here too!

There is not much activity on the Film camera Tester’s GitHub forum but it seems most ( or all) are getting those in resin from the same place that does the pc boards.

 

[ic-racer]

I have not received any parts yet.

My current stumbling block was finding out yesterday that the .BOM files don’t contain part numbers for all the parts.

I uploaded the .BOMs, but when I went to check out I didn’t find the rotary switch, push buttons, LED, sensors, fan, and perhaps many more items.

So now it has become something of an annoying scavenger hunt. I spent an hour on Mouser looking at over 1000 rotary switches without knowing what will fit the pc board.

Thus my reason to start this thread, to share sources for the missing items.

 

[albada]

I do have a Kyoritsu EF-5000, but that is starting to fail [...]

You might try replacing all the electrolytic capacitors in the Kyoritsu, as they're probably drying out from age. Then you'll have two working shutter-speed testers.

Mark

 

[ic-racer]

I made a list of all the items that don't have a supplier's number listed in the BOM. I spent over a week just going through all the Github files to make this list and it still might not be complete. Haven't spent much time actually searching for the items yet.

Scavenger Hunt List:

LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
Rotary Switch
Push Switch 12x12x7.3 12127.3
Knob 20x13
12x12x7.3 cap 3 colors
9P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
6P M JST XH2.54 w/ 26AWG Wire
4P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST PH2.0 w/ 22AWG 15cm Wire
LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
10W heatsink with FAN
SIC553-04/PIC0903SL
TSL237 photodiode (sensor #6)
ArduinoNanoATmega328P
active buzzer 2300Hz 5v
GX16x6 Male -connector
GX16x6 Femae -connector
LCD2004A / PCF8574T LCD screen
Device Enclosure; Horizontal
12V Power Supply
3D Printed Parts
24AWG 4 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
24AWG 6 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
1/4 20 UNC(IFC) Threaded Insert
Diffuser "Silky White" 88x88 6mm thick
Acrylic Fresnel Lens diameter 50mm, focal length 40mm
Epileds XHP7070.2 12V 3000K LED (Cree XHP70.2)
M3x20 Hex Screw Black x4
M3x65 Threaded Rod x4
M3 Nut x12
M3x6 1mm Nylon Washer x8
Nylon Spacer M3x15 x4

 

[rcksdty]

You might try replacing all the electrolytic capacitors in the Kyoritsu, as they're probably drying out from age. Then you'll have two working shutter-speed testers.

Mark

I have, the problem however is within the sensor. I borrowed a sensor from a friend that also has a EF5000 and determined my sensor unit is on its last legs.

 

[ic-racer]

I'm also updating a "Build" thread on the Film Camera Tester's Gitub discussion.

I ordered the PC boards, but did not know I could get the little components soldered on. Luckily I figured that out before paying for the order. There is a slide-switch button near the bottom of the PCB ordering screen to add the electrical components to the PCB for you so you don't have to solder the tiny components to the board yourself.

I contacted a local 3d printer, but he did not get back to me so I ordered the 3d Parts from JLCPCB in Black Resin and Black ABS.

I ordered most of the other components from AliExpress. Never used that system of multiple vendors before, will see what shows up.

It was a little concerning ordering a Chinese counterfeit CREE led. The instructions indicated that particular fake needs to be used to ensure correct calibration of the system since the source code is not available for alterations.

 

[rcksdty]

I made a list of all the items that don't have a supplier's number listed in the BOM. I spent over a week just going through all the Github files to make this list and it still might not be complete. Haven't spent much time actually searching for the items yet.

Scavenger Hunt List:

LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
Rotary Switch
Push Switch 12x12x7.3 12127.3
Knob 20x13
12x12x7.3 cap 3 colors
9P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
6P M JST XH2.54 w/ 26AWG Wire
4P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST XH2.54 Connector with wires attached
2P M JST PH2.0 w/ 22AWG 15cm Wire
LD24AJTA (LED driver board)
10W heatsink with FAN
SIC553-04/PIC0903SL
TSL237 photodiode (sensor #6)
ArduinoNanoATmega328P
active buzzer 2300Hz 5v
GX16x6 Male -connector
GX16x6 Femae -connector
LCD2004A / PCF8574T LCD screen
Device Enclosure; Horizontal
12V Power Supply
3D Printed Parts
24AWG 4 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
24AWG 6 Core UL2464 Cable 0.8m
1/4 20 UNC(IFC) Threaded Insert
Diffuser "Silky White" 88x88 6mm thick
Acrylic Fresnel Lens diameter 50mm, focal length 40mm
Epileds XHP7070.2 12V 3000K LED (Cree XHP70.2)
M3x20 Hex Screw Black x4
M3x65 Threaded Rod x4
M3 Nut x12
M3x6 1mm Nylon Washer x8
Nylon Spacer M3x15 x4

TSL237 photodiode (sensor #6)
these are discontinued and hard to find, but you can still get them on AliExpress (I just ordered 5).
link:

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-TSL237S%2525252dLF.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230331111048&origin=y&SearchText=TSL237S-LF&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0

 

[ic-racer]

I missed it that the sensor was available individually.

This morning I wound up ordering the whole assemblies to remove the sensor.

What about sensor #6 is it the same, it is not clear.

 

[rcksdty]

I missed it that the sensor was available individually.

This morning I wound up ordering the whole assemblies to remove the sensor.

What about sensor #6 is it the same, it is not clear.
View attachment 334375

these are for sensor 1 and 2 . Sensor 6 (exposure test) uses a different light sensor (TSL237).

 

[rcksdty]

I'm also updating a "Build" thread on the Film Camera Tester's Gitub discussion.

I ordered the PC boards, but did not know I could get the little components soldered on. Luckily I figured that out before paying for the order. There is a slide-switch button near the bottom of the PCB ordering screen to add the electrical components to the PCB for you so you don't have to solder the tiny components to the board yourself.

I contacted a local 3d printer, but he did not get back to me so I ordered the 3d Parts from JLCPCB in Black Resin and Black ABS.

I ordered most of the other components from AliExpress. Never used that system of multiple vendors before, will see what shows up.

It was a little concerning ordering a Chinese counterfeit CREE led. The instructions indicated that particular fake needs to be used to ensure correct calibration of the system since the source code is not available for alterations.

When you upload the Gerber files to JLCPCB there is an option to have them put the surface mounted components on the boards; The other 2 files along with the Gerber file have the components locations and values for JLCPCB to put on. I did it that way and got the boards with the SMD components on them.