This is the LED you want for the build (warm white, 12volt 20mm diameter)
This is the LED you want for the build (warm white, 12volt 20mm diameter)When you upload the Gerber files to JLCPCB there is an option to have them put the surface mounted components on the boards; The other 2 files along with the Gerber file have the components locations and values for JLCPCB to put on. I did it that way and got the boards with the SMD components on them.
When you upload the Gerber files to JLCPCB there is an option to have them put the surface mounted components on the boards; The other 2 files along with the Gerber file have the components locations and values for JLCPCB to put on. I did it that way and got the boards with the SMD components on them.
This is the LED you want for the build (warm white, 12volt 20mm diameter)
The instructions indicated that particular fake needs to be used to ensure correct calibration of the system since the source code is not available for alterations.
You definitely won't regret going for ABS. It's a very tough plastic that handles wear and tear quite well. Resin on the other hand, while it can produce some very fine detail, tends to be quite brittle. That's why it's mostly used for model making.So I'm having them done in ABS, but maybe resin would have been better. I'll find out.
You definitely won't regret going for ABS. It's a very tough plastic that handles wear and tear quite well. Resin on the other hand, while it can produce some very fine detail, tends to be quite brittle. That's why it's mostly used for model making.
Using a 0.8mm nozzle is really big. On my ender I almost always use the stock 0.4mm that comes with it by default.After more e-mails about the 0.8 thickness, I cancelled the ABS and wound up ordering all the pieces in resin. The reason I wanted ABS was I thought I'd need to use some self tapping screws and thought that might be better. But after reviewing the construction details, I'd rather use machine screws and make threads in the components with a tap.
After more e-mails about the 0.8 thickness, I cancelled the ABS and wound up ordering all the pieces in resin. The reason I wanted ABS was I thought I'd need to use some self tapping screws and thought that might be better. But after reviewing the construction details, I'd rather use machine screws and make threads in the components with a tap.
Self tapping screws will work if you are within the walls of the piece. Passed that is the infill region. Tapping would be less effective but it can also work if torque/strain is low.
Best method is via captured nut or pressed inserts.
I like the metal threaded inserts. Not sure if one can melt them into resin or if they need to be slid in place and glued.
You also ideally need to print with more wallsFor PLA, you need an undersize hole (specificied by the insert type) then heat and push the insert with a soldering iron. The plastic melts and grips the knurls on the insert.
Do you know why he designed it? Is he a camera repair person or did he just make it for fun?
Hi- New member and (another) DPR refugee:
I built one of these testers last year, but not the light source. It works really well, but the building of it had a couple curves thrown in that I hadn't expected. I thought about the light source, but not sure I need it for the work I do. The tester does require a fairly bright light source, however.
I think Sergei/Serhey mentioned that he started the project because he was doing a lot of work on cameras himself as a hobbiest, and thought the world needed a good tester, so yes, he made it for 'fun'.
Let me know if you have any other questions about the build or use of the tester in the wilds.
What about sensor/laser #3? I was hoping to see some ideas people have for that one. Like some way to hold them to put a leaf shutter between them.
A piece of wire came today!
My first order from AliExpress! Hope all the rest arrives.
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