Build a shutter tester for Focal Plane shutters - Cheap, Easy & it Works

[Twotone]

PS. I've got a Zenit EM as my £5 guinea pig to test when I've got this running, which I'll no doubt be destroying when I attempt a CLA and shutter adjustment!

 

[Twotone]

Hi folks,

A few questions:

- for those running or planning to run vertical lasers for vertical shutters, are you planning to have matching vertical receivers? If not, how are you planning to align the receivers in front of the camera to receive the beam? Or is it a case you're doing a diagonal arrangement for the lasers and matching the receiver's?

- how high are you having your lasers/receivers mounted? I appreciate it's easier to put the camera on something to get it to the right height (and allow flexibility with testing different types) so just wondering what's worked for you.

Thanks!
TT

 

[Niglyn]

PS. I've got a Zenit EM as my £5 guinea pig to test when I've got this running, which I'll no doubt be destroying when I attempt a CLA and shutter adjustment!

Please do not destroy a perfectly good Zenit )

I have a soft spot for them and have become a bit of an expert in their repair, which is why I built the shutter tester in the first place.

Please join the facebook group. You will find my most excellent guides on repairing Zenit cameras in the files section.

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[Niglyn]

Hi folks,

A few questions:

- for those running or planning to run vertical lasers for vertical shutters, are you planning to have matching vertical receivers? If not, how are you planning to align the receivers in front of the camera to receive the beam? Or is it a case you're doing a diagonal arrangement for the lasers and matching the receiver's?

- how high are you having your lasers/receivers mounted? I appreciate it's easier to put the camera on something to get it to the right height (and allow flexibility with testing different types) so just wondering what's worked for you.

Thanks!
TT

1) Hot glue )
If mounting the tx & rx into a project box, mark the box at 32mm spacing for horizontal shutters & drill the holes.
For a vertical shutter, the spacing is 20mm.

Use two sets of lasers is the easy way, with a multi-pole switch to select H or V.

You could re-use laser 1 and just have two laser twos, as shown in the last build.

Project boxes are trapezoid shape, so care must be taken when mounting the boxes, that the side facing each other are parallel.
Commercial testers use different backs for different cameras, 35mm horizontal, 35mm vertical, 120 etc.

The size of mine, was purely so I could fit a box brownie into it. For smaller cameras, like 35mm slr, I just use spacers under the camera.

To get started, I would suggest just using scrap wood as I did, & hot glue. This way you can play around with it & find the size of project box to suit you.

 

[Twotone]

Please do not destroy a perfectly good Zenit )

I have a soft spot for them and have become a bit of an expert in their repair, which is why I built the shutter tester in the first place.

Please join the facebook group. You will find my most excellent guides on repairing Zenit cameras in the files section.

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

Thanks for the link!

I'm not planning to destroy it, I'm hopeful I'll be able to use it as my learning model, however if I was given the option of a Zenit Vs one of my other cameras, the Zenit would get the chop!

 

[Twotone]

1) Hot glue )
If mounting the tx & rx into a project box, mark the box at 32mm spacing for horizontal shutters & drill the holes.
For a vertical shutter, the spacing is 20mm.

Use two sets of lasers is the easy way, with a multi-pole switch to select H or V.

You could re-use laser 1 and just have two laser twos, like shown in the last build.

Project boxes are trapezoid shape, so care must be taken when mounting the boxes, that the side facing each other are parallel.
Commercial testers use different backs for different cameras, 35mm horizontal, 35mm vertical, 120 etc.

The size of mine, was purely so I could fit a box brownie into it. For smaller cameras, like 35mm slr, I just use spacers under the camera.

To get started, I would suggest just using scrap wood as I did, & hot glue. This way you can play around with it & find the size of project box to suit you.

Thanks, so you'd have multiple receivers too? Assuming they all need to be aligned perfectly etc, so you'd need vertical receivers for the vertical lasers too?

 

[Niglyn]

SOFTWARE UPDATE

Hi gang, beta version of the Arduino software now available on github. It is for the newer sensors only.
If anybody has the older sensors & wants to try, let me know.

After thoughts, discussion & research over the accuracy of any test kit that is trying to measure a slot, I have, I hope, come up with a solution that ensures accuracy is maintained over the entire shutter speed range.

The code is written for horizontal shutters, so a sensor spacing of 32mm.
LCD displays the updated code values, whilst the screen currently displays both the old measurement and new, for comparison.

File is a hex file, so needs loading with AVRDUDESS. Details of how to do this is on the github page. This saves having to load the new libraries into Arduino IDE.

ESP32 version will be updated at some point & will include additional functionality, like pc sync socket connection, horizonal or vertical shutter testing - probably auto-switching, as well as the additional functionality it already has. Might even add a light meter displaying EV output for testing light meters.

Please let me know if you try the code & what you think..

 

[Twotone]

SOFTWARE UPDATE

Hi gang, beta version of the Arduino software now available on github. It is for the newer sensors only.
If anybody has the older sensors & wants to try, let me know.

After thoughts, discussion & research over the accuracy of any test kit that is trying to measure a slot, I have, I hope, come up with a solution that ensures accuracy is maintained over the entire shutter speed range.

The code is written for horizontal shutters, so a sensor spacing of 32mm.
LCD displays the updated code values, whilst the screen currently displays both the old measurement and new, for comparison.

File is a hex file, so needs loading with AVRDUDESS. Details of how to do this is on the github page. This saves having to load the new libraries into Arduino IDE.

ESP32 version will be updated at some point & will include additional functionality, like pc sync socket connection, horizonal or vertical shutter testing - probably auto-switching, as well as the additional functionality it already has. Might even add a light meter displaying EV output for testing light meters.

Please let me know if you try the code & what you think..

Thanks Nigel,

Is the current ESP32 version going to impact on vertical readings? I'm guessing no and I doubt it's set up in a way where it would care which way the lasers/receivers are orientated.

How would the auto-switching aspect work?

 

[Niglyn]

Thanks Nigel,

Is the current ESP32 version going to impact on vertical readings? I'm guessing no and I doubt it's set up in a way where it would care which way the lasers/receivers are orientated.

How would the auto-switching aspect work?

Auto-switching (should) be very easy. Using four laser & receivers. Positioned at 12 and 6 o'clock (vertical) and 3 and 9 o'clock (horizontal)
The code can then analyse the receiver input to see in which direction the shutter curtains are moving. Alternately, I might just add a H/V switch )

Currently, the ESP32 version measures identically to that of the current Arduino version, so there is no calibration for sensor width/slot measurement error.

I'm just waiting for feedback on the latest Arduino beta code. If it is found to be working ok, I can go ahead and swap the Arduino for Esp32 board on my tester. (it is a pain to swap them over) and tinker with that. I keep saying no more development of Arduino, but keep finding ways to get more code into the already full memory )

I don't have access to a workshop or even any tools. Ideally I would like a mill, to accurately drill five holes in two project boxes and build a new ESP32 based four laser and light meter tester rig. So until that changes, there is little development I can do beyond using my original two laser and scrap wood prototype & tinkering with the code. The ESP32 version, though, is still superior to that of the Arduino. It is worth the upgrade for the guessing hat alone )

 

[Twotone]

Auto-switching (should) be very easy. Using four laser & receivers. Positioned at 12 and 6 o'clock (vertical) and 3 and 9 o'clock (horizontal)
The code can then analyse the receiver input to see in which direction the shutter curtains are moving. Alternately, I might just add a H/V switch )

Currently, the ESP32 version measures identically to that of the current Arduino version, so there is no calibration for sensor width/slot measurement error.

I'm just waiting for feedback on the latest Arduino beta code. If it is found to be working ok, I can go ahead and swap the Arduino for Esp32 board on my tester. (it is a pain to swap them over) and tinker with that. I keep saying no more development of Arduino, but keep finding ways to get more code into the already full memory )

I don't have access to a workshop or even any tools. Ideally I would like a mill, to accurately drill five holes in two project boxes and build a new ESP32 based four laser and light meter tester rig. So until that changes, there is little development I can do beyond using my original two laser and scrap wood prototype & tinkering with the code. The ESP32 version, though, is still superior to that of the Arduino. It is worth the upgrade for the guessing hat alone )

Exceptional, thanks!

Once I've tackled the Everest that will be the flashing etc (never done anything of the sort) I'm going to try and build out a project box with the 4 lasers and a separate for 4 receivers, and then a switch on each 'side' of the tester to switch between horizontal/vertical. From the sounds of things the above should work without any change to the code.

I'll keep you posted, undoubtedly with more questions!

 

[Niglyn]

I'm thinking of adding this to the ESP32 version. This way it can be stand-alone & not rely on the computer screen.
it is 4" so should be big enough, have also got a 2.8" on it's way from Amazon, but think it will be too small.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005790100160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.4c6f18020D7IT0

 

[snusmumriken]

I'm thinking of adding this to the ESP32 version. This way it can be stand-alone & not rely on the computer screen.
it is 4" so should be big enough, have also got a 2.8" on it's way from Amazon, but think it will be too small.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005790100160.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.4c6f18020D7IT0

Those little displays are lovely. If you buy from AliExpress does the display come with its own graphics library, or does one rely on the Adafruit library?

To be truly standalone one would need to add a LiPo battery and charging port, or single-use batteries. And a switch. Is it really worth the effort? Does anyone need to operate the tester so far from a computer?

 

[Twotone]

Hi Nigel,

My parts have arrived!

I'm going to look at tackling the flashing aspect with my ESP32.

The GitHub page looks to have been updated in the past week, am I right to assume the code on there and the guide for installing (V1) is the one to use still?

I'm planning to potentially use a switch/plug arrangement to switch between horizontal/vertical components. Is there anything in this version of the code which will cause any issues with this?

I'm planning to build them into project boxes, with the lasers/receivers positioned directly behind a 0.8mm mask as suggested.

Thanks!

 

[Niglyn]

Hi Nigel,

My parts have arrived!

I'm going to look at tackling the flashing aspect with my ESP32.

The GitHub page looks to have been updated in the past week, am I right to assume the code on there and the guide for installing (V1) is the one to use still?

I'm planning to potentially use a switch/plug arrangement to switch between horizontal/vertical components. Is there anything in this version of the code which will cause any issues with this?

I'm planning to build them into project boxes, with the lasers positioned directly behind a 0.8mm mask as suggested. Should I keep the receivers unmasked?

Thanks!

Hi,

Latest docs are on the github. Please let me know errors, omissions, badly worded or difficult to understand parts. I can then update as required.

One of the docs should explain the laser/sensor positioning. It shows five lasers, currently centre one is not used.

I would suggest just wiring the two horizontal sensors for now. When yours is up and working, I can send you some new code to try, for vertical switching. Should all be done in sw, with a couple of extra connections to the board, so no need for compex change-over switches or plugs & sockets will be required.

New wiring diagrams are soon to be uploaded, to show additional wiring for a 4" tft, which will show far more than can be seen on the LCD. The LCD will work for now, but will probably be phased out when the three laser code is released.

Output is also to computer screen, so LCD and tft are optional.

There is no ESP32 code currently on github. Try loading the test code first, which should get you familiar with flashing to the ESP32 board. If the test code flashes ok, the on-board LED should flash on for 1 second, off for 0.25 seconds.

Let me know your timescales & I will get a full ESP code uploaded to github. Problem is, now I have this super fast processor and so much memory, I am adding all sorts of stuff to the ESP32 shutter tester code )

 

[Twotone]

Hi,

Latest docs are on the github. Please let me know errors, omissions, badly worded or difficult to understand parts. I can then update as required.

One of the docs should explain the laser/sensor positioning. It shows five lasers, currently centre one is not used.

I would suggest just wiring the two horizontal sensors for now. When yours is up and working, I can send you some new code to try, for vertical switching. Should all be done in sw, with a couple of extra connections to the board, so no need for compex change-over switches or plugs & sockets will be required.

New wiring diagrams are soon to be uploaded, to show additional wiring for a 4" tft, which will show far more than can be seen on the LCD. The LCD will work for now, but will probably be phased out when the three laser code is released.

Output is also to computer screen, so LCD and tft are optional.

There is no ESP32 code currently on github. Try loading the test code first, which should get you familiar with flashing to the ESP32 board. If the test code flashes ok, the on-board LED should flash on for 1 second, off for 0.25 seconds.

Let me know your timescales & I will get a full ESP code uploaded to github. Problem is, now I have this super fast processor and so much memory, I am adding all sorts of stuff to the ESP32 shutter tester code )

Brilliant, I will do as you say and just wire up the horizontal ones for now, but still fit the other lasers (just not connected) until a time it's nailed down.

Brilliant, I'll have a go at loading the test code and report back in the next day or two!

I'll probably start assembling it all over the weekend, so as soon as you can get it onto GitHub the better! Just post on here to let me know once you've done it.

Final question - in case I can't find the answer, what's the process of having the 'live link' between the tester and the computer for the readouts?

Thanks!

 

[Twotone]

Well I had a go at flashing it tonight in the end as the expertly written instructions covered it all!

I got the windows driver installed, and then using the separate bit of software, I flashed the board:

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Everything on there suggests that it's been successfully completed based on the instructions, and all of the settings match perfectly from what I can see.

I flashed the blink firmware so I could test out my ability to follow instructions, however after pressing the reset button on the board (above the USB board and boot button), nothing has changed.

I've tried holding it down, pressing it quickly etc but no use. I've also tried erasing and reinstalling the firmware, each time given signs it's all good but the blink doesn't start, so I'm assuming:

- it's not flashed correctly
- a hardware issue (unlikely I imagine!)
- I'm not resetting it correctly

Any suggestions, gratefully received.

Thanks!

 

[Niglyn]

Well I had a go at flashing it tonight in the end as the expertly written instructions covered it all!

I got the windows driver installed, and then using the separate bit of software, I flashed the board:

PXL-20230919-200755960-MP hosted at ImgBB

Image PXL-20230919-200755960-MP hosted in ImgBB

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Everything on there suggests that it's been successfully completed based on the instructions, and all of the settings match perfectly from what I can see.

I flashed the blink firmware so I could test out my ability to follow instructions, however after pressing the reset button on the board (above the USB board and boot button), nothing has changed.

I've tried holding it down, pressing it quickly etc but no use. I've also tried erasing and reinstalling the firmware, each time given signs it's all good but the blink doesn't start, so I'm assuming:

- it's not flashed correctly
- a hardware issue (unlikely I imagine!)
- I'm not resetting it correctly

Any suggestions, gratefully received.

Thanks!

Hi, document for output to the computer will be uploaded soon. It is Arduinio IDE version 2.x

What ESP32 board did you get? send or post me the link. It is possible the LED pin is different from mine, as boards can vary slightly as there is no set standard. My LED is wired to pin 2.

Give me 10 mins & I will load another test file for you.

It does look as if your flash worked ok.

 

[Twotone]

Hi, document for output to the computer will be uploaded soon. It is Arduinio IDE version 2.x

What ESP32 board did you get? send or post me the link. It is possible the LED pin is different from mine, as boards can vary slightly as there is no set standard. My LED is wired to pin 2.

Give me 10 mins & I will load another test file for you.

It does look as if your flash worked ok.

Thanks!

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004438768602.html?spm=a2g0n.shopcart.0.0.4b5d38daHfALub&mp=1

Hopefully that link works, I bought all the bits in your original list using the same seller etc.

Thank you

 

[Niglyn]

hi, new test flash file is on github. ESP32_test_Blink.ino.bin.
Please let me know if it works.

Document for software Arduino IDE Software load will be up shortly, just a quick rushed version.

 

[Twotone]

Hi everyone,

Thought I'd give you all an update on my build and how it's progressing!

You'll see in the previous comments that I was having issues with flashing the blink code, and am relieved to say it wasn't my stupidity, but in fact a strange quirk that Niglyn figured out how to remedy, which is now updated in the Github esp32 documents.

My intention for this was to build one that had both vertical and horizontal testing capability, but have also added the central laser as suggested by Niglyn to future proof it for planned code updates in the future.

My planned route was relatively logical (at least in my mind! ) which would be 0.8mm holes drilled in two project boxes facing each other, with the lasers and receivers mounted accordingly in each one.

These would be mounted on a piece of hardwood that I've had in the garage for years, and then there would be a separate project box to house the main board and LCD.

I've flashed the board successfully with the LED blink code, wired everything up, tested all the wiring as much as possible so far and all seems good (although I had a dead laser and a dead receiver so I'm glad I bought spares of each!). I've connected up the ground connections from all the various bits into terminal blocks and housed them inside the project boxes.

What's still left to do?

- I have a 3d printed 'lid' for the LCD project box which has the appropriate size cut out for the LCD. I did try and cut a hole in a lid but even with my best intentions and a Dremel, it looked like someone had hacked at it with an axe!

- Mount the lasers to allow for easier alignment! As you'll see from the pics, I mounted them directly behind the 0.8mm holes I drilled, however I overlooked how even a minor angle would change the direction of the laser pattern due to how close they are to the holes. I'm planning to instead drill some holes in a thin piece of ply/MDF as suggested by Niglyn and insert the lasers into these and affix that to the reverse of the mask.

- Mount the receivers and sensors! I'm planning to fix the prongs of the sensors directly to the mask with glue so that the sensor 'dome' of each sensor sits behind the corresponding hole in the mask. It's going to involve some bending of the prongs etc but that should be okay.

- final wiring clean up, some heat shrink, some more glue gun, final earth/positive block connections, and then hopefully get the code from Niglyn to flash and test it all out.

The biggest challenge so far has certainly been working out how to mount everything in a way that works, especially for calibration/alignment.

Here are an assortment of pics! More to come as it progresses.

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Thanks!
TT

 

[ic-racer]

Looks nice!

 

[Twotone]

Looks nice!

Thanks! Fingers crossed I don't cock it up!

 

[Twotone]

A little update for you all!

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I've made a bit more progress, and everything is now fully wired up except for the mounting and aligning of lasers/receivers + a bit of heatshrink to tidy up the bundles of wires.

The LCD is now connected up and mounted in the 3d printed enclosure I got for it, if anyone wants to take advantage of the boxes and 3d printed lids let me know and I'll give you the details.

After doing my best to mount the lasers in a piece of wood backing (on the rear of the masks) it became apparent my combined drilling setup and skills in that department are lacking so I have opted to get both sets of masks 3d printed and will report back with details.

Shortly after taking the first pic of the entire board, I realised that the LCD and lasers were intermittently cutting out, which I couldn't understand given that the LCD was wired directly to the backing board and the lasers went through various circuits before getting to the board e.g. they weren't connected.

After doing my best to replicate the issue and splitting off various bits of wiring into more tidy terminal blocks I thought I had found the solution but apparently not.

Just as I was about to give up for the night I found the issue (touch wood!). 2 out of 5 lasers were significantly dimmer (one of the pics shows a good laser Vs a weaker laser). I checked connections etc and all was fine, so as I let them hang down again I noticed the pins on the underside of the boards touching each other and everything flickering.

Putting two and two together I quickly realised that they must have been bridging connections and shorting! That killed two of the lasers (hence the dimmer lights) so I swapped them out and all seems to be fine.

I applied some tape temporarily to the exposed pins on the receivers and lasers to stop any more lasers frying themselves and jiggled the wiring around - no more flickering!

I successfully flashed the software first time thanks to Niglyn's excellent GitHub guides! Once the lasers/receivers are mounted and aligned I'll figure out which of my buttons are which and swap/label them accordingly.

Thanks!

 

[Niglyn]

Thanks for the update & photos.

Jumping to a five laser design does add much wiring.

3d printing a box or front-plate for the lasers would help, making 6mm tubes for the lasers to slot into.

If going down this route, I would consider using stand-alone lasers. Cheap as chips from AliExpress. The tails on them are much thinner & more flexible than Dupont wires. I have added a 220R series resister to mine as it was much brighter than the modules.

A consideration is also the additional current draw of five lasers & the tft screen from the 3.3V regulator. If the regulator becomes hot, it maybe worth moving the Laser power (Lasers only, not receivers) to the 5V power terminal.

For the receivers, I would again dispense with the module & use some vero board, drill the five laser pattern holes into it & hot-glue the sensors so they look through the drilled holes, from the copper side.
Each sensor requires a 0.1uF capacitor & 10k resister, easily added. There is no need for the LED or LED resister. The parts of-course, could just be de-soldered from the module boards. Interestingly & unfortunately, I have never been able to find the rx sensors being sold separately, without the complete module. The capacitors & resisters are pennies from AliExpress, so if ordering Lasers, not worth the faff of de-soldering them from the boards.

However the above is moving away from 'easy' concept of using pre-built modules.

A big caveat here. I have never made a five Laser shutter tester, thus this design is theoretical only. I have no facilities to make anything, but do have plenty of time to write code. The only change to the code, is for it to either read the two H inputs or two V inputs & use the correct calibration algorithm for 32 or 20mm sensor spacing.

Lasers (add a 100 or 220R resister in line)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004934759510.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.38d71802e9xcVn

 

[snusmumriken]

For the receivers, I would again dispense with the module & use some vero board, drill the five laser pattern holes into it & hot-glue the sensors so they look through the drilled holes, from the copper side.

I may have got something wrong in my build, but the sensors in mine are on the distant side of their PCBs, which makes it difficult to get them close to the mask with its drilled holes. I suppose one could bend them in a loop around the end of the PCB so that they look the other way?