Before spin-coating, might I suggest that you try overexposing by a stop (or double the effective ISO) if the reversal is too dark. Developed plates tend to be thin before you figure that out.
I expose my basic emulsion as an ISO 2...I would expect you are faster at least by double due to the panchromatic response. I then develop in HC-110 dil B for 5 minutes.
Gotcha. At 40 minutes you might also be suffering reciprocity failure. I'm assuming you need these long exposures due to shooting indoors? Can you set up to shoot outside? Even though you lose 2-3 stops due to the screen, your exposures shouldn't be near as long outdoors. Sunny 16 rule applies.
Hope you don't mind me tossing out ideas...seems like you're now tackling some of the non-autochrome-specific issues that emulsion makers run into as part of that learning curve. Which is good progress!
Autochromes required a yellow filter to be placed over the lens before the exposure was made. This implies that the emulsion was especially sensitive to blue light. The panchromatic emulsions of the first Autochromes--1906 to about 1919--were probably sensitized with the dyes ethyl red and erythrosin. The literature suggests that if these dyes were incorporated in the emulsion they did not act as efficiently as if the emulsion were bathed with the dyes shortly before exposure.
I believe you're thinking of ethyl violet, not ethyl red. Ethyl violet has a fairly poor action, especially at deeper reds (IIRC it's why people's skin looks so strange and pale). I would imagine this is why they needed that filter. Their particular emulsion also used Orthochrome T as a (green?) sensitizer, which as far as I can tell has disappeared off the face of the earth. For now I'm just using erythrosine and pinacyanol, which shouldn't require a filter.
I think your examples are wonderful and I hope you continue with your work. Ethyl violet, of course, was a popular sensitizer for photographic emulsions in the 1910's. However it is generally considered not as effective as the isocyanin dyes for sensitizing photographic emulsions.
E.J. Wall in "History of Three-Color Photography" (1925) states that ethyl red "was the first of the isocyanins" and his footnote indicates that it was introduced in 1904, in time for it to be incorporated in the first Autochromes. On page 257 Wall states "...the nitrate or sulfate of ethyl red, and which was, therefore, the corresponding salt to orthochrom T...." Ethyl red then seems chemically very closely related to Orthochrom T which you suggest was used to sensitize Autochromes.
Ethyl Red (current name Ethyl Red Iodide, CAS 634-21-9)
http:://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/5463397
Diethyl Red (current name Ethyl Red, CAS 76058-33-8) - please note, than if you buy Ethyl Red from Sigma, for example or any other vendor - you will get this incorrect compound.
http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Ethyl_red
Orthochrome T (CAS 6270-81-1)
http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/5485634
From the structures that dE fENDER has posted it is seems apparent that Ethyl Red Iodide is chemically very close to Othochrome T. Wall mentions that both dyes will sensitize to wave length 6200--aproximately orange in color.
What is the density of your undercoat, the one with the colored grains? That is the minimum base density you can get in a final image.
PE
The first developer of a reversal process should have solvent action to build up Dmax to make clean whites in the reversal. Since the negative looks quite good, this suggests to me that there is not enough solvent action in the FD. If there was, the negative would appear to be foggy.
PE
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