35mm Ektachrome 100 bulk availability

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mohmad khatab

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First developer can be very cheap, even if you don't/can't replenish it (I've seen pictures of what looked like good results with Rodinal 1:25, 15 minutes at 40 C, though it was full strip images, not frame scans). Color developer is the one that costs, and I've done C-41 (Flexicolor LORR) replenishment at only 2-3 rolls a month with good results through a liter of replenisher (most of a year). Bleach and fixer you just reuse to capacity (even C-41 chemicals will work here). Question is whether you can get a replenished system color developer for E-6, more than whether it's practical to do. Mixing your own is one way; there are published formulae, but I understand some of the chemicals are hard to source or have impractically large minimum orders.

Kits are an option, and still cost a lot less than sending your film out, but what I'm planning to try is getting just the color developer (I ordered from Cinestill, in transit, around $1.50 per roll at their listed capacity), use Parodinal for first dev and Flexicolor C-41 bleach, fixer, and final rinse (I'll order in some formalin if it seems I need it for stabilizer; my darkroom is well ventilated). If this works well with expired 35 mm and 120 films I have, I'll try it on the fresh box of 4x5 E100 I just got, and it that works well too, I'll try to get either a short end, recan, or next year's tax refund will go for a 400' roll of Ektachrome.

In all honesty, I love you and respect you, my friend.
But I hope one day to see the results of those plans that you always talk about.
It seems to me that you mentioned this same plan before last year, and I do not know when you will implement it on the ground.

I wish you all the best and success.
 
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Finn lyle

Finn lyle

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If anyone else in the US is interested, I’d be down to split a 400’ roll as well.
 

pbromaghin

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If someday you thought of giving it up for one reason or another, I can buy it from you, I need it so much in the Egyptian analog community.
I hope you will accept my regards

It isn't for sale right now. I'm retiring this year and am planning to do a lot more photography. That being said, I won't know for a year or more whether this fits in to my future. But I will remember this and if it doesn't fit, I will be happy to pass some of it on to you for cost of shipping.
 

mohmad khatab

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It isn't for sale right now. I'm retiring this year and am planning to do a lot more photography. That being said, I won't know for a year or more whether this fits in to my future. But I will remember this and if it doesn't fit, I will be happy to pass some of it on to you for cost of shipping.

You are a good and honorable man,
I wish you a smooth and comfortable retirement
Thanks
 

YoIaMoNwater

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Easy-peasy. I glued together several layers of cardboard, big enough to hold both rolls and put screws through it for the cores. Tape marks the edge of the 100ft roll to tell when to quit. I do it in a darkbag.

View attachment 302244

Can you tell me the dimension of this? Such as the cardboard, the larger circle, and the smaller one?
 

flavio81

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If anyone else in the US is interested, I’d be down to split a 400’ roll as well.

I see you will end up with a 400' roll of 17.5mm film, an actual movie format.
 

flavio81

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Can you tell me the dimension of this? Such as the cardboard, the larger circle, and the smaller one?

I would guess that for the smaller one it would be best to measure how big a roll can your film loader (bulk loader) can hold. And use this measure as your target outer diameter.
 

Randy Stewart

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Yes, very interesting- bulk rolled 35mm 36 exposure Ektachrome for about $7 a throw. I wish I wanted slides! When reversal printing went bye bye I didn’t have much of a reason to shoot chromes. That K40 made some gorgeous Ciba prints.

This was my experience in the mid-1970s. I had shot Ektachrome for years. My first fling with color printing was Cibachrome because that was the best positive to positive process available. I learned to tame its excesses with a DI(Y divided first developer, and later added contrast masking. This required care not to gas yourself when opening the print processing tube and would commonly take a casual half day to zero in on the first perfect print. But, the results were stunning. As the whole color negative process improved, I shifted over to that a few years before Ciba was discontinued.
 

YoIaMoNwater

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I would guess that for the smaller one it would be best to measure how big a roll can your film loader (bulk loader) can hold. And use this measure as your target outer diameter.

Right but I don't have the 400ft roll so I have no idea of its diameter.
 

Donald Qualls

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Right but I don't have the 400ft roll so I have no idea of its diameter.

Based on the size of the 400 foot-to-cassette bulk loader design I've downloaded, it's just under 8 inches for the 400 foot roll on its core.
 

pbromaghin

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Can you tell me the dimension of this? Such as the cardboard, the larger circle, and the smaller one?

The whole thing is 4 layers of cardboard glued together, 12" x 16" (the size of the available boxes). The screws are a little over 7" apart. The circles were traced around the 400' and 100' cans and only used to find where to put the screws. I use the tape marks on the smaller circle to tell when to quit winding. That diameter came from measuring a 100 ft roll of FP4 inside its black bag.
 

Rolfe Tessem

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FWIW, a 100 foot daylight spool fits perfectly in the bulk loader. Using one of these makes breaking down a 400 foot roll a lot easier.

Rolfe
 
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As good as they were, I'm beginning to miss Fujifilm's offerings less and less. Theoretically available in Super8, 16mm, 35mm, 120, 4x5, and bulk rolls... I really need to find an excuse to shoot more ektachrome.

ektachrome16.jpg


Minolta MG-s, 16mm E100D
Homebrew E6
V800 positive scan; set black point
 

Donald Qualls

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Yep, I've got a few rolls in120 and a 10-sheet box of 4x5 Ektachrome. I wonder if a 3D printed slide mount would be practical (not that I have a projector)...
 
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I've got a 3D printed 4x5 negative carrier for a Graflarger that serves as an ad-hoc slide mount. The light source isn't any good for color projection, but in theory (almost) any 4x5 camera is also a 4x5 projector.

6x45, 6x6, and 6x7 mounts from Matin are still available (last time I checked, at least) but I'll be darned if 16mm mounts aren't extinct. You can get half-frame stereo mounts, but anything smaller than 35mm is unobtainium. I usually just cram 2x2 16mm frames into a single 35mm.
 

Donald Qualls

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Actually, I was thinking about 35 mm slide mounts to be 3D printed, not 4x5. However, I do have a condenser head for a D2 enlarger that should be possible to repurpose as a projector, if I needed to project 4x5...
 

Joel_L

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In another thread I mentioned I played with Vision3 film and was pleased with the potential results so ordered a 400 foot roll. I'm popping back over here because of the mention of bulk loaders and re-spoolers.

I decided to 3d print a 400ft bulk loader. There are two flavors I could find. I picked one and so far have printed the base for it, the other bits are printing as I type this. What I noticed is the one I picked is a bit bigger than I think it needs to be. The other is smaller. The bigger one is on cults3d.com and the smaller on thingiverse.com ( a remix of a 100 ft version ). So it ends up when I ordered the Vision3 250D film I also bought a 400ft roll of 100D ( so now I'm on topic ). Once this bigger version is done printing, I will print the smaller one to see how it looks. I have a third version in mind that I want to improve the light tightness of the film exit on.

I am happy with Kodak, I ordered this stuff on Tuesday, they shipped it Wednesday. When I called them, it was pretty simple and straight forward to order.

Here are some pics of the larger version base. As I make progress I'll update here. I will also update my Vision3 thread as I dial in my final process.

film1.jpg film2.jpg
 

cmacd123

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bigger is always better than too small. BE extermely careful of light tightness. that roll of 5294 is one expensive chunk of film.
 

Joel_L

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I still think this one is excessively large. The third design I have in mind will have a more positive seal on the film than what these two designs provide.

I plan on putting a length of B&W film in there to do a test roll with before the color film goes in.
 

Joel_L

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I finished printing the large version and put a length of B&W film in it and shined a light at it using various angles. I also opened the cover for the cartridge and shined a light into the film trap. I loaded a roll using the film and see no evidence of a light leak. I'm still not thrilled with the size of it.

I started to print the smaller 400ft loader but stopped it before it was done. The faceting on the curves was not done well. Looking at it more closely, I also did not like the way light traps were done. between the body and the cover. so I'll pass on that one.

I'm in the process of drawing up my own, have no idea when I'll be done. For now the big one is usable.

pic1.jpg pic2.jpg
 

Minolta93

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I finished printing the large version and put a length of B&W film in it and shined a light at it using various angles. I also opened the cover for the cartridge and shined a light into the film trap. I loaded a roll using the film and see no evidence of a light leak. I'm still not thrilled with the size of it.

I started to print the smaller 400ft loader but stopped it before it was done. The faceting on the curves was not done well. Looking at it more closely, I also did not like the way light traps were done. between the body and the cover. so I'll pass on that one.

I'm in the process of drawing up my own, have no idea when I'll be done. For now the big one is usable.

View attachment 314576 View attachment 314577

That's great news. How long did the print take?
 

Joel_L

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I printed it in three groups, the main body was about 19 hours, the cap screw crank and cover took about 4 hours, the lid and crank helper took about 7 hours.

Given that this is pretty big, I printed with a .5mm nozzle and .25mm layer height.. I had to do some fitting and sanding after the print to get it all to go together. Most notably was the film exit, I am using 1.5mm felt for the light trap. I had to sand it a bit wider to get both layers to fit and let the film slide through.

I think if I were to do another, I would use a .4mm nozzle and .2mm layer height.
 

Donald Qualls

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What model printer do you have? I'd had trouble getting the one from Thingiverse (the smaller one as mentioned above) to fit the build space for my Ender 3 -- slicer keeps telling me it runs out of room (though I don't recall if I cut the skirt to zero).
 
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