110/16mm Camera Image Quality

[Minox]

I set my Minox cameras (8x11) to the infinity, not to the hyperfocal, when shooting distant object, usually anything over the 2 meters mark. I have noticed that the hyperfocal setting is giving me soft (not properly focused) images. The infinity mark seem to have resolved this issue.

It also has to do with the thickness of the film used; the thicker the negative, the harder is to be held properly by the gate upon closing in onto the film. The thinner the film, I noticed that the sharpness improves very much.

Other than that, I believe the others here have already said it. Good luck with your next negatives

 

[Patrick Robert James]

It's from an S, IIRC.

This isn't exactly 16mm, but one could consider Double8 a sort of 'quarter-frame Minox'.

Wollensak 8 Model 53
FPP Double8 ISO 100, Xtol stock
Morse tank, V800 scan

That is pretty cool Bronson. How do you develop the movie film? LOMO tank?

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Minox C, Eastman XX, Rodinal. Scan from print.

 

[ic-racer]

I set my Minox cameras (8x11) to the infinity, not to the hyperfocal, when shooting distant object, usually anything over the 2 meters mark. I have noticed that the hyperfocal setting is giving me soft (not properly focused) images. The infinity mark seem to have resolved this issue.

Yes!

A good portion of this book explains it. Have you read it? But you can also see for yourself too as you did.

http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/TIAOOFe.pdf

 

[jbrubaker]

Rollei 16, Ektachrome 100D
View attachment 319964

These are looking good. Where do you get single perf 16mm ektachrome? Are you processing it yourself? regards ---john.

 

[Minox]

Yes!

A good portion of this book explains it. Have you read it? But you can also see for yourself too as you did.

http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/TIAOOFe.pdf

Thank you, haven't read it, but I will .

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

That is pretty cool Bronson. How do you develop the movie film? LOMO tank?

Morse tank, as per the original post. 25ft of un-slit Double 8 is a little easier on the wrists than processing a 100ft reel of 'real' 16mm film.

Once dried, I can flatbed scan lengths of ~48 frames from an uncut reel then use some ancient software to convert the strip to a gif. The registration in-camera is excellent; a misaligned scan and/or camera shake are easily distinguished. Scanning with sprockets at 3200dpi will produce an image ~850 pixels high, maybe enough to crop and still be 720p. The original gif was almost 10MB... definitely not H.264.

The other half of the strip:

These are looking good. Where do you get single perf 16mm ektachrome? Are you processing it yourself? regards ---john.

I get most of my submini stocks from FPP, though bigger places like B&H usually carry most of the Kodak range. Processed DIY E-6 in a yankee clipper, though I did cheat a bit and use D-19 as the first developer as I'd just mixed 2 liters of it.

 

[Cholentpot]

Nikkormat with a Tokina 17mm, Tri-x 16mm.

Had some frame overlap but otherwise it worked pretty well. The lens is kind of kaput though. Very hazy.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Not bad for $0.50 worth of film. Did you process the Tri-X as a negative? I wonder how close it is to the 35mm stuff in terms of push-ability...

I finally gave some color separation exposures a shot.

Mamiya 16 De Lux, ~F5.6, 1/100s
Foma R100; bw reversal, 1st dev Kodak D-51 2+1 8' (amidol print developer)
Red 29, Green 61, Blue 47B



Edit:

Rollei 16, "A" mode ISO 200
Kodak XX; D-51 2+1 8' (amidol print developer)
V800 negative scan



Minolta 16 QT @ closest focus; F3.5 1/250, F10 1/30s
ImageLink HD; D-23 1+3 8'

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Minolta QT F3.5 1/30s
FPP Sonic 25, D-23 1+3 12'
V800 negative scan

 

[Huss]

Rollei 16, Ektachrome 100D
View attachment 319964


Minolta MG-s, ImageLink HD @ ISO 6
D-19 reversal, 3'30"
View attachment 319963

FPP BW 3 (2383), Parodinal 1+100 60'
View attachment 319966

Nice!

 

[Huss]

Excellent stuff Bronson!

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Thanks; I find with smaller formats it's much easy to experiment and/or fine tune processing without worrying about wasted film.

I just picked up a Kodak 71173 cine 16mm -> 616 (2.5"x3.5") enlarger from some sort of auction site.



It's gated for a ~8x10mm 16mm cine frame, complete with a handy dandy registration pin. It'll only give crops from 16mm/110 still cameras but will produce a 'quad-diptych' with un-slit Double8 film.

I don't have any 616 roll film (and my 120 adapter isn't here yet) so I cut down a sheet of x-ray film and dropped it into the back, slapped a random bit of 16mm film in the holder, and opened the shutter.


Fuji HR-U, D-23 1+3 15' (w/ tray mark during development {and some digital cloning for opsec})

The aperture of the lens seems to be in the F11-16 range but that's only a guess.

I assume it works with paper as well; pretty nifty.

Edit: To stay on topic, I also recently picked up an Ektramax. The flash unit is dead weight, but the mechanical functions all appear to be sound and the rotating/sliding action of the focus is sweeet.

 

[ic-racer]

Neat stuff for experimenting!

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Nikkormat with a Tokina 17mm, Tri-x 16mm

Had some frame overlap but otherwise it worked pretty well. The lens is kind of kaput though. Very hazy.

Excellent!

 

[Cholentpot]

Excellent!

Thanks.

Just developed all my 110 from the summer. I'll be posting it up at some point.

 

[Huss]

Edit: To stay on topic, I also recently picked up an Ektramax. The flash unit is dead weight, but the mechanical functions all appear to be sound and the rotating/sliding action of the focus is sweeet.

View attachment 320507

Nice! I tried to find one but my searches were fruitless apart from one that looked like it was a dog's chew toy. Had to pass on that one (and they still wanted $60!)

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

This one won't win any beauty contests, but it does take pictures. It requires sprockets to cock the shutter and one extra blank advance to avoid overlapping frames.

Kodak Ektramax F2 1/30s & 1/100s?
FPP BW3 (3383), Pyrocat-MC 1+1+100 14'

3383 is weird stuff. More often than not it silvers out during fixing when processed as a bw negative.

 

[Cholentpot]

Pentax Auto 110, Fujicolor Super HR. Film did not age well...

Rollie A110, Fujicolor 200. This film got along better but I was working out the kinks in the camera. It seems it does not like when I use the function to close camera without advancing and I got a bunch of double or triple exposures.

I left the edges in intentionally. I like how it looks with 110 film.

 

[xkaes]

It requires sprockets to cock the shutter and one extra blank advance to avoid overlapping frames.

Just one? That's good to know, and your film is PROOF POSITIVE. A lot of 110 cameras that need the perforations require two or more "blank advances". This MIGHT be true for all of the other Kodak Ektra 110 cameras as well -- and maybe the Ektralites too. Any 110 Ektra users out there?

http://www.subclub.org/shop/kodak.htm

 

[Cholentpot]

So I'm doing this

I now need the 70mm lens to complete the set. The zoom I don't think I need.

 

[xkaes]

The 70mm with a 2X converter is like a 300mm in full-frame 35mm.

 

[Sirius Glass]

So I'm doing this

I now need the 70mm lens to complete the set. The zoom I don't think I need.

Could you stack a few more Soligar extenders in there?

 

[Cholentpot]

The 70mm with a 2X converter is like a 300mm in full-frame 35mm.

289mm f/8 'round about.

Could you stack a few more Soligar extenders in there?

You send me one and I'll do it. To be honest these TCs are more or less useless. I've never nailed focus using one of them.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The general rule for teleconverters, as I understand it, is that you're better off cropping.

There might be an exception for a converter made by the same manufacturer as the lens you're using it with, and specifically for that exact lens -- but otherwise, the loss of image quality is probably similar or worse than with a crop to the same subject size.

And the dimmer viewfinder doesn't help in any way...