110/16mm Camera Image Quality

[Huss]

I developed a roll of 110 but the film was roached. Looks horrible. No point in posting anything from it.

On the upside, I loaded a 110 cartridge with microfilm to put in my Rollei E110. The shutter on that is intermittent, but with the microfilm it won't matter if I lose frames. I also loaded probably 50 exposures. Should be interesting to see what happens. Need to figure out the speed difference and put some ND over the meter window. The E110 will wind and fire without the spacing holes. I think the holes are just used to stop the winding on that camera.

I also picked up a Kodak Ektramax. I have a roll of Kodak in that now, just haven't used it yet. Should be interesting to see what the lens is like. It won't fire without the spacing holes though, so it is only usable for regular film.

If I get anything worthwhile I'll post it.

I read that the E110 does not meter correctly with 6V cells, unlike the A110 the circuitry does not adjust for the difference in voltage.
How are you dealing with that?

 

[Cholentpot]

That only applies to the 16mm TriX, right? Never had issues with regular TriX.

Never had an issue with standard Tri-X either. When it comes in I'll give an update.

 

[Donald Qualls]

That only applies to the 16mm TriX, right? Never had issues with regular TriX.

Only cine Tri-Xn (whether 35mm, 16mm, double 8, or Super 8). It'll be marked as "Tri-X Reversal" or "Tri-X Negative" (two different films with different speeds) rather than 400TX, 320TXP, or similar.

 

[Cholentpot]

Only cine Tri-Xn (whether 35mm, 16mm, double 8, or Super 8). It'll be marked as "Tri-X Reversal" or "Tri-X Negative" (two different films with different speeds) rather than 400TX, 320TXP, or similar.

Why does TriX have the Remjet when Plus-X and Double-X don't.?

 

[Donald Qualls]

Not sure -- I'm not even sure all the cine Tri-X stocks do -- but I suspect it has to do with the higher speed showing halation more. Maybe.

 

[Cholentpot]

Guess I'll breaking out the 'ol baking soda again.

 

[MattKing]

The remjet is both an excellent lubricant and preventative measure with respect to static build-up.
It is particularly well suited to higher speed movie cameras.
So the remjet included movie films may be aimed toward certain technical uses.

 

[ciniframe]

Isn’t TX reversal just the way it is processed? If you use regular developer like HC-110 it will come out as a negative, right?

When I open the box, in total darkness of course, I’ll snip off a inch or so to make sure it has rimjet. My information was just hearsay.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I read that the E110 does not meter correctly with 6V cells, unlike the A110 the circuitry does not adjust for the difference in voltage.
How are you dealing with that?

I don't deal with it. Lol. Just roll with it, but since I've only shot part of one roll with it, and the film was terrible, I can't really tell if it is off or not. Looked like it was ok. I think I read something about the battery voltage too back when I was looking for a 110 camera, but I liked the aperture priority of the E110 so I went with it. Probably should have bought an A110. Since I bought the Ektramax though I doubt I'll shoot 110 film in the Rollei, though the Ektramax is a beast compared to the Rollei. It is all a work in progress since it is low priority. Just having some fun with it.

 

[Cholentpot]

The remjet is both an excellent lubricant and preventative measure with respect to static build-up.
It is particularly well suited to higher speed movie cameras.
So the remjet included movie films may be aimed toward certain technical uses.

It's also a bit of a pain to deal with. Kodak is harder to deal with than fuji. With Fuji it just comes right off. Kodak you need to rub a bit.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Isn’t TX reversal just the way it is processed? If you use regular developer like HC-110 it will come out as a negative, right?

Tri-X Reversal is a different emulsion, but you're correct, you'll get a negative image if you don't go through the first dev, bleach, reversal exposure/bath, second dev process to get a positive image. This is not the case with all "reversal" black and white films; Foma R100 has a silver antihalation layer that will give a very high "fog" density if you process as a regular negative (I think I've read of overexposing a bit and giving it a bath in Farmer's Reducer to fix this, but I'm not certain).

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

a photo of a pea plant from a prior 25cm close-up roll



b&w filmstocks don't have carbon anti-halation (remjet) layers. Only the ECN-2 stocks do IIRC

Edit: this was the MG-S's metering w/ an LR44 1/250s @ 50 iso w/ 50 iso color film

 

[Huss]

Rollei A110, Superia 200.



1:1 crop

 

[Huss]

Rollei A110, Fuji Superia 200

 

[Huss]

Rollei A110, Fuji Superia 200

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Huss is really rocking that Rollei...

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I developed a roll of Kodak micro film that I loaded in my Rollei E110. On the upside, the spacing was really good. On the downside there was a lot of fog on the roll but not in the frame. So I checked the camera with a flashlight and holy moly Batman! Stupid thing leaks tons of light into the film chamber. Just wondering if anyone can check theirs to see if this is just mine, or they were designed this way... I put the flashlight up against the front bezel on the non moving side. Leaks on both the top and bottom too. If anyone can check theirs and see if it leaks I'd appreciate it. Other than the leak it looks like reloading 110 in a Rollei is completely doable. And by the way, I got 40 exposures on the roll of Microfilm. Not bad.

 

[Huss]

I developed a roll of Kodak micro film that I loaded in my Rollei E110. On the upside, the spacing was really good. On the downside there was a lot of fog on the roll but not in the frame. So I checked the camera with a flashlight and holy moly Batman! Stupid thing leaks tons of light into the film chamber. Just wondering if anyone can check theirs to see if this is just mine, or they were designed this way... I put the flashlight up against the front bezel on the non moving side. Leaks on both the top and bottom too. If anyone can check theirs and see if it leaks I'd appreciate it. Other than the leak it looks like reloading 110 in a Rollei is completely doable. And by the way, I got 40 exposures on the roll of Microfilm. Not bad.


View attachment 276568

All three of my A110s do that, it is part of the design that does not need to be light tight. But it does not affect the image due to the way the 110 cartridge is designed. All that matters it that it is light tight around the lens chamber area i.e where the photo is taken. Once a pic is taken it is wound into the light tight cartridge. It's why a camera like this is still light tight:


Untitled by desmolicious, on Flickr

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Mintola MG-S @ 25cm shutter priority 1/125s
Double-X @ 100 in Tmax 1+4 22C 4:00



A bit uninspired, but surprisingly *not* a grainy mess as I've seen with some larger format stocks in Tmax dev. Peculiar bokeh is also prominent.

Smaller formats are loads of fun, if somewhat niche and out-of-reach of most mortals. Presuming 110 filmstock and commercial processing remain available, Huss' A110 work could certainly win some new converts to the format with self-digitization options proliferating. The manual exposure control, flexibility of self-processing, and relatively large selection of bulk 16mm cine film stocks for stuffing into Mintola cassettes is what I like about the format. I do miss a standard cable release and Bulb mode, however.

In any case, shooting sub-miniature formats will improve anyone's photography, just as shooting larger formats will do.

 

[Cholentpot]

Just loaded up my 16II with some 7266 Tri-X which I did not realize is rated at 200 ISO. No info out there how to develop it so I'm going to go with the old standby of HC-110B 7.5 min. I have no clue how old this film is or how it was stored. I bought it on a whim.

Also, there is no remjet on this film as far as looking at it tells me. I'll know more when I develop it.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

All three of my A110s do that, it is part of the design that does not need to be light tight. But it does not affect the image due to the way the 110 cartridge is designed. All that matters it that it is light tight around the lens chamber area i.e where the photo is taken. Once a pic is taken it is wound into the light tight cartridge. It's why a camera like this is still light tight:

Good to know Huss! Thanks for checking. I thought maybe someone took out a baffle or something.

I shot another roll tonight and it came out clean as a whistle. I think the problem was the developer. I wanted a super low contrast baseline with the first roll so I developed it with dilute Rodinal and stand. I always rail against stand as a horrible idea, and sure enough, that was the problem. Serves me right for not following my own advice. The roll from tonight I just developed along with some other film and it is fine.

 

[ciniframe]

Just loaded up my 16II with some 7266 Tri-X which I did not realize is rated at 200 ISO. No info out there how to develop it so I'm going to go with the old standby of HC-110B 7.5 min. I have no clue how old this film is or how it was stored. I bought it on a whim.

Also, there is no remjet on this film as far as looking at it tells me. I'll know more when I develop it.

Never seen rimjet coated film but I think if it was the base side should be completely black. If it looks like the double x then woo hoo, I was misinformed about the backing. That will simplify everything, just regular developing in my usual HC110.

 

[Cholentpot]

Never seen rimjet coated film but I think if it was the base side should be completely black. If it looks like the double x then woo hoo, I was misinformed about the backing. That will simplify everything, just regular developing in my usual HC110.

Remjet is carbon black. This film has a green side to it. I'm heading out to test the speeds in a bit. It's sunny today should be a good day for testing speeds.

 

[Cholentpot]

Developed the film. Sadly both rolls came off the reels some way between the Dev and the Fix.

What did come out shows that it sits between 200 and 100 on speed. I'll rate it at 125-160. No remjet for those of you who wonder. Is it possible to develop this stuff as reversal at home using regular developer? As in Dev, Stop, Expose to light, Dev again and then Fix? I might try it, got nothing to lose.

Next roll is in the Auto 110. Issue is the Auto 110 will rate it at 320 because of the cart I used. I might need to push it a bit in development.

 

[Huss]

Next roll is in the Auto 110. Issue is the Auto 110 will rate it at 320 because of the cart I used. I might need to push it a bit in development.

Que?

The Auto 110 only selects film speed at 100 or 400 ISO.