110/16mm Camera Image Quality

Cholentpot

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Bronson Dugnutt

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Anti-fog was 2 drops of an aqueous 1% benzotriazol sol'n in 280mL of 1+1 Xtol in this case. The few frames that did turn out look quite good on the film. Lots of seemingly empty frames probably owing to the 16's advance mechanism and/or underexposure.



The camera may have already been loaded when purchased, judging from the above frame.

Edit: The 16ii is a nice addition to the MG-s & QT but man is that shutter *LOUD*. Looking forward to using Bulb mode with a blu-tack tripod after finishing a test roll..

 
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Cholentpot

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I don't think I can hop down to the local Walmart and pick some of that up can I?

Auto 110, Tri-X

 

ciniframe

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There is another way to get the lens to infinity. But you give up close focusing except with the #1 and #2 close up lenses. You can disassemble the camera removing the shutter and aperture mechanism. The lens is held in place by two screws and where it seats on the block. When you remove the lens there will be thin washers. There were two on the 16II I took apart. Together they miked about .0065 in. which when removed brought the lens back very close to infinity.
To bring the lens to 2.5M where focus is factory set a 22mm lens would be extended about .0078 in. This is taxing work, trying to get the screws back into the hold down bracket and into the block. Make sure the slot in the lens mount is aligned so the aperture blades slide freely.

edit; Once you get the lens and aperture mechanism in place the rest of the camera is easier to assemble……not real easy, just easier.
 

ciniframe

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One of these days I’ll have to go ahead and get a Kiev 30. They all seem to be sold from Ukraine and sometimes Russia with long ship time allowance. Even though the shutter does not have a ‘B’ setting like the Minolta 16II, well I’ve seldom used that anyway. I’d probably attempt to construct a series V filter adapter to slip onto the filter slot since I have a whole bunch of series V stuff. The bigger negative is appealing as well as focusing.
 

Huss

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ciniframe said:
One of these days I’ll have to go ahead and get a Kiev 30. They all seem to be sold from Ukraine and sometimes Russia with long ship time allowance. .
Click to expand...

I recently bought an Agat18K from that region and while it showed a long ship time, it showed up in 2 weeks. Same thing for my other purchases from Ukraine or Russia.
 

4season

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If you want to learn to service cameras and save a little bit of money in the process, Kiev 303 may also be worth a look. From what I can tell via eBay photos, Kiev-30 quality is better, but -303 is pretty much the same camera, sometimes cheaper and available in different colors. Most of what ails the newer cameras can probably be remedied with a set of miniature files and general CLA. At the time my camera-repair knowledge was a lot more basic, but I still thought it was not too difficult to work on.
 

Cholentpot

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I bought a spare and promptly broke it on it's first roll. They're cheap enough though.

 

Donald Qualls

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4season said:
From what I can tell via eBay photos, Kiev-30 quality is better, but -303 is pretty much the same camera, sometimes cheaper and available in different colors.
Click to expand...

I have both, and this is correct. The Kiev 30 has more shutter speeds, PC flash sync socket, and B setting -- so it's a little more versatile camera (the B would obviously be more useful if there were a tripod socket and cable release mounts) -- but the 303 appears to be just a way to make a 30 that was more affordable by simplifying the shutter. Image quality is about the same, and they have (AFAIK) the same lens formula (28 mm triplet). Unless you plan to 3D print a tripod and cable socket attachment, there's little to choose between them.
 

Cholentpot

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Huss said:
Rollei A110, Fuji Superia 200
Click to expand...

Amazing.

I just inherited my family archives of film from the 40's on. A lot of 110 in there. Film has come along way since 1975. Shooting and scanning my own stuff gave me what I need to know to scan the family stuff.

Kiev 30, Tri-X
 

Donald Qualls

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Huss said:
It's cool how that looks like old newsreel footage!
Click to expand...

Or a spy camera shot. Sharp, and resolution limited by the film grain rather than the lens. Sometimes even spies needed higher film speed (you don't believe they shot documents under a desk lamp on APX 25, do you?).
 

4season

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Something's not working right, and the horizontal film scratches are the least of it:

Mamiya 16 Super II, Lomography Potsdam 100 developed in Cinestill DF96 monobath. Every single bit is new to me including loading 16 mm film onto a stainless steel reel, the process of slitting film, the emulsion, the developer, and of course the camera.
 

Donald Qualls

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It's generally recommended to limit the number of new things you try to deal with at any given time...

You clearly got development/fixing, so the monobath is working. Contrast may be a little high, but that's something you have to work out with Df96. Looks like you have a small obstruction in the frame gate. Is that a 3D printed cassette? That might account for the scratches...
 
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