what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

[Don_ih]

Thanks for that tip -- I've got a box of this in 4x5 and I'd hate to test it and find out the whole box is edge fogged (and the sheets I loaded worse than that).

I had 75 sheets of it, sealed. The first ones I used I tray developed under the safelight, thinking that was ok to do. While you do get an image, you also get a lot of fog - which I attributed to age. So I kept increasing the exposure. That didn't work.
It wasn't until I got a 4x5 reel for my Jobo that I developed it in the dark and realized I'd been fogging the film myself.
A good start time for Parodinal, by the way, is 11-12 minutes at 1:25 dilution. I think I could've shot it at iso50 and extended that development a bit and everything would've been fine.

 

[Donald Qualls]

A good start time for Parodinal, by the way, is 11-12 minutes at 1:25 dilution. I think I could've shot it at iso50 and extended that development a bit and everything would've been fine.

And that is the good information that we come to Photrio for. Given I usually use 1:50 and reduced agitation, I should be good with a starting EI 50 and 25 minutes for the first test. I'll probably process in D-23, though; I have two liters of that getting seasoned for replenishment and my Agitank wants 1.6 L to cover 4x5.

 

[AnselMortensen]

My new-to-me Eastman #2 Improved 8x10.
Outdated Provia.
Shot to test film and camera...sort of a 'getting-acquainted' test run.
Will be lab processed.

 

[markjwyatt]

Tested two nold (new-old) Flektogons (https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/flektogon-35mm-2-4.153231/post-2643790) one an f2.8 Zebra on an Exakta VX. The other an f2.4 MC Electric DDR on a Praktica MTL50. Both used ADOX CHS 100 II developed in ADOIX FX-39 in the same batch. Some comaprisons here if you are interested. Basically some pretty subtle differences in bokeh is the main difference I see between the two designs:

Flektogons (Comparisons)

Two Flektogons; 1. Carl Zeiss Jena 35mm f2.8 Zebra Flektogon in Exakta Mount 2. Carl Zeiss Jena DDR 35mm f2.4 electric MC Flektogon in M42 mount

www.flickr.com

 

[Roger Thoms]

Finished up a roll of Legacy Pro 100 in Nikon N80 with a Nikkor AF 85mm f.4 and also shot a roll of Portra 400 in a Reality So Subtle 6x17, dropped both rolls of yo be lab processed.

Roger

 

[Philippe-Georges]

Last Friday: Hasselblad 500C/M with Distagon C 50mm T* on HP5+, no filter, developed yesterday in E-76 1+1 for 15 min @ 20°C.
Friday was a rather foggy and windless day but the landscapes in the wet marches looked interesting because of to the reflections of the bare trees in the rippleless water...

 

[ChrisLLUK]

Fomapan 100 in a Canon T90. Not developed yet.
Before that, same film in an Olympus OM-4Ti, developed in caffenol.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Finished up a roll of Fomapan (.EDU Ultra) 400 in my "White Russian" Moskva 5 on Friday afternoon, reloaded with XP2 Super for EI 800 and bleach bypass. Should get processed next weekend or so in D-23 stock, which will then be seasoned and starting replenishment.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Olympus XA, Kentmere Pan 400, shot at ISO 400, developed at home, PC-512 Borax, Dil 1:50 for 6.00 at 20° C, JOBO 1510 tank, inversion.

 

[canaq]

Leica M5, Foma Fomapan 400 @ 400, developed at home, Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand, Patterson tank. Gotta love the Rodinal grain

 

[joe bosak]

Horizont. Two rolls of Ilford HP5. Ilfotec HC. Standard development times: 3.5 minutes developer, 1 minute stop, 5 minutes fixer, 30 minute wash. 30 second agitation every minute. Both came out completely blank.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Both came out completely blank.

Ruh roh. Not even edge markings?

 

[joe bosak]

Ruh roh. Not even edge markings?

I can't remember but basically I hadn't realised the film was not winding-on beyond the first couple of exposures. Those exposures were lost because the film tore on rewinding and they were left on the take-up spool when I opened the camera. And instead of processing the first film, I ran a second through it. And then I found it hadn't used the film I was developing.

At least, that's what i think happened. It's now at a repair shop because I actually liked using it!

 

[GLS]

Linhof Technikardan S45 & Fuji Acros 100, developed with Pyrocat-HD in a modified Paterson Orbital.

I recently scored 100 sheets of 2016-expired Acros. Never shot it in sheets before. Couple of surprises with the film:

1) It is only packaged in a double box, not a triple. Not sure why, as Fuji's E6 sheet films are in the latter.
2) The sheets have a small hole punched in one corner, near the notch code, which I was taken aback to see. On googling this supposedly they're designed to aid hanging of the film, but the hole encroaches into the image area a small way, so a pretty stupid "solution" from Fuji to a non-existent problem. Ah well, not the end of the world.

 

[abruzzi]

I’m jealous. I love Acros (and hopefully Acros II when the 120 rolls of Acros run out) but I never got to shoot it in sheet film.

BTW two thumbs up on the Technikardan—such a great camera to use. It spoiled me when compared to most other compact LF cameras.

 

[GLS]

I’m jealous. I love Acros (and hopefully Acros II when the 120 rolls of Acros run out) but I never got to shoot it in sheet film.

BTW two thumbs up on the Technikardan—such a great camera to use. It spoiled me when compared to most other compact LF cameras.

Yes I love Acros too. Still got a sizeable stash of the original in 120, which is a good job because the price of Acros II is ludicrous.

And yeah the TK S45 is a joy to use. So well engineered.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Petri Color 35, Arista.EDU Ultra 100, developed at home, Kodak HC-110, Dil B, 1:31, 6:00m at 20° C, JOBO 1510 tank, inversion

 

[abruzzi]

Yes I love Acros too. Still got a sizeable stash of the original in 120, which is a good job because the price of Acros II is ludicrous.

Fortunately here in the US we can get Acros II from Adorama (who seems to undercut everyone else) for essentially $10 a roll. It a bit cheaper than TMAX ($11/roll) and a bit more expensive than Delta ($9/roll). FP4+ is $2 cheaper, and Kentmere 400 now is $4 cheaper, in the ballpark of Foma films. Kentmere has quickly become my testing film, and Acros/Acros II will be my preferred film for most things. I'm down to about a dozen rolls of original Acros, and have 40 Acros II waiting for me.

 

[GLS]

Fortunately here in the US we can get Acros II from Adorama (who seems to undercut everyone else) for essentially $10 a roll. It a bit cheaper than TMAX ($11/roll) and a bit more expensive than Delta ($9/roll). FP4+ is $2 cheaper, and Kentmere 400 now is $4 cheaper, in the ballpark of Foma films. Kentmere has quickly become my testing film, and Acros/Acros II will be my preferred film for most things. I'm down to about a dozen rolls of original Acros, and have 40 Acros II waiting for me.

Here in the UK Acros II is double the price of Delta 100 (typically £15 vs £7.50).

As I said, I'm glad to be sitting on 100+ rolls of the original; all from the final batch.

 

[abruzzi]

Ouch.

 

[murdockhendrix]

Kodak Retina 1b (new to me), Arista.EDU Ultra 400, shot at 200 ISO for yellow filter, developed at home, PC-512 Borax, Dil 1:50 for 6.00 at 20° C, JOBO 1510 tank, inversion

 

[joe bosak]

Yashicamat. Two rolls Ilford HP5 shot at 800 (or near enough using my Sverdlovsk 4). Ilfotec HC 1:15 at 20c. Extended development to 5 minutes. 30 second agitation every minute with the wiggle stick. Results look good to me.

Nikonos II. Ilford Ortho Plus. Shot at around 100 on the Sv4. Ilfotec HC 1:15 at 20c. Standard development time: 4 minutes. 30 second agitation every minute. Results looks good to me, olde worlde look presumably due to lack of red sensitivity; but seems I have some sort of light leak on the Nikonos. I thought I only had to worry about water ingress.

 

[GregY]

Leica CL, Canon 28mm 2.8, Tri-X in Pyrocat HD. Print on Ultrafine Silver Eagle FB

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yashica J. HP5. Sunny 16. 510 Pyro. Negs look great!

 

[abruzzi]

Technikardan 23S, Kodak E100 with some older lenses, that apparently still have accurate enough shutters for reversal film! Including a 5.6/135mm Symmar, 8/65mm Super Angulon, and a 2.8/105 Xenotar--all Linhof marked variants