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what is the last thing you developed or printed

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Yes, I think both were formulated by Crawley, and Clay Harmon sent me some FX-37 a while back for me to try out, and the results are very similar to FX-39. Maybe the 37 was a little sharper yet.

I plan on using this for 120 film and 135 alike, and the grain is really pretty and sharp with HP5+ / Ilford Pan 400 (same as Kentmere 400) / Tri-X 400 / TMax 400 / Delta 400 etc. Especially for close-up work using 135 it works amazingly well, like portraits and such. For landscape, it depends on the subject matter, vast open skies will not be to everyone's liking for example. I highly recommend Fuji Acros with this developer. The highlight contrast of that film is phenomenal, and suits the developer very well. It makes that film pretty much perfect.
 

experimenting with blue MXR xray film in my 5x7, I really need to fine tune my development to tame the contrast
 
Rick A said:

experimenting with blue MXR xray film in my 5x7, I really need to fine tune my development to tame the contrast
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How do you process it? Do you work with very dilute developers, or do you have some other way of working with agitation or temperature to get usable results from the X-Ray film?
 
Thomas Bertilsson said:
How do you process it? Do you work with very dilute developers, or do you have some other way of working with agitation or temperature to get usable results from the X-Ray film?
Click to expand...
This was with Rodinal at 1+50 for 8 mins rotary. The contrast is super high, used a 00 filter over my light source to make the contact print. Next time I think 1+100 might be better with that time. Xray film is designed to be high contrast and take only seconds to develop in machines, so getting the right developing time is crucial to getting good prints with more mid tones. I rated this film at iso 100.
 
I shot some Fuji HR-T (green sensitive) X-ray film in the big 8x10 pinhole machine last Sunday. I find myself getting all the density I need -- and plenty of contrast -- with developing times down around 3 minutes in HC110 1+63 tray developing -- that's like a third of the time I would use on 400TX or the like in a tank. I also shot some 400TX the same day to finish a roll.

I contact printed the pinhole stuff but was unimpressed with the results. The paper is/was about ten years old, so maybe I need to to try again on some fresh stock "one of these days." (Too much going on around here lately!)
 
Thanks for the info Dave, I have a box of Fuji HR-T green as well. I like to keep my developing times a little on the long-ish side to avoid uneven development.
 

Yes, I know it's finicky and usually orthochromatic too. It makes sense to dilute the developer more.
 

My last imaged printed -- Palladium/Na2 on Crane's Cover, from 5x7 negative (FP4+ in HC-110). Looks like I roughed up the paper a little with the brush.
 
I am finally printing some 20 year old medium format negs of a portrait series, the 8x10 proofs look very promising, I will be starting on the 16x20 exhibition prints this week.
 
4 sheets of Kodak Vericolor Print Film (4111) that expired in 1999 and stored unrefridgerated until I got it 2 years ago,
Exposed as 10 ASA with a Kodak Auto Graflex RB from around 1916. And pushed 3 stops in HC-110, Dilution B for 11 minutes.

Dead Link Removed
 
miha said:
a roll of fp4 in Ilfosol 3 produced in 2011 stored half or 3/4 full, opened a year or so ago.
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Another two 120 FP4 rolls in the same Ilfosol. Ilford did a great job improving keeping qualities of this brew.
 
After a long hiatus from photography, I just developed 3 rolls of Ilford FP4 in Xtol 1:1
 
for the seventeenth time I took a pic of [oldest] son on his birthday (not actually on the day but within a day or so). Developed (Delta 400 in Xtol 1:1) to ensure it worked. Need to print next night or so to check they are in focus in case I need to redo them.
 
17 - a very good year and turning point in a young man's life and a father's pride. (i had girls only so what the heck do i know???) Photos like that are so important. Good on, Nige.
 

MXR Blue xray film rated iso 100, developed in Rodinal 1+100/9 minutes@20c
top image with #00 filter on light source, bottom used #2 filter
seems more dilute with longish time gives me the extended tonal range I desire.
 
Today I processed:
8 rolls of HP5+ / 120 format
2 rolls of FP4+ / 120 format
1 roll of Fomapan 200 / 120 format (scan attached of one of the frames)
1 roll of Kodak Tri-X 400 / 120 format
1 roll of Fomapan 200 / 135 format
 
Thomas Bertilsson said:
Today I processed:
8 rolls of HP5+ / 120 format
2 rolls of FP4+ / 120 format
1 roll of Fomapan 200 / 120 format (scan attached of one of the frames)
1 roll of Kodak Tri-X 400 / 120 format
1 roll of Fomapan 200 / 135 format
View attachment 156968
Click to expand...
That's a stunning print, Thomas!
 
I've printed my first 4x5" negatives, on Adox MCC (8x10") and Ilford MGIV FB (9.5x12"). I've misplaced my grain focuser so I had to eye-ball focus which was sub-optimal, but the image seems sharp enough.

Working with a large negative... :3
 
Here's an example of the Fomapan 200 film, processed in ADOX FX-39. Someone asked about that a while back, but I can't find the post.
The lightest picture is EI 50, the middle one is EI 100, and the darkest is EI 200 (box speed). I like it best at 50, honestly, but there's plenty of shadow detail in the EI 100 frame. I don't think I'd use it at 200.

 

Here are two more examples. EI 100 and EI 50 - in that order left to right.

 
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