I think digital readout meters are harder to use and give a false sense of precision. I uses a Pentax spotmeter. It has a digital EV readout which you transfer to an analog scale. You can attach a sticker if you want.But just to get you back on track with your argument, you are OK with a complex digital meter that shows oddball fraction stops and, in spite of more computing power than my first Commadore 64, won't even give you the zones? Realize the point of my rant is my fancy new meter is no way perfect for the type of photography that we all do (on this forum).
1. What is a Exposure Profle?
1) It can be used to display on a light meter the unique dynamic range and clipping point of the digital camera you are using.
Transfers the unique sensor characteristics of the digital camera to the light meter.
If you fix the shutter speed on the meter, these are the values it shows. You can 'dumb down' the digital display and have it round to the nearest full-f-stop.
For those who have not read about my thoughts on the Zone System, I use its techniques but I do not take the testing and the rigor seriously. Most lenses are limited to plus or minus 1/2 f/stop or 1/3 f/stop while shutter speeds are limited to the available settings [putting the shutter in between two settings will yield one of the other, usually the last one passed through]. Depending on the negative film one can get from six to twelve [some can get more] stops but printing on paper is limited to five to seven stops. So we make approximations and then dodge, burn, bleach, and tone to get the result that we want.
Important aside: The Zone System is easy to use with sheet film, more work to use with roll film especially 135-36. Therefore I use it to put the area of interest in the correct zone. I do not use the N-1, N+1, N-2, ... development. But with the modern films' dynamic range, one does not need to often or ever.
I only practice "The Zone System" in the most remedial of ways, but.....Yeah.Sorry, I intended no disrespect. I guess I always found converting f-stops to zones second nature. But I took up analog photography at age 13 and became completely absorbed by it.
not sue but many of his students advocated them. AA probably didn't need one; he thought in Zones.Did AA use a Zone sticker??
I was almost going to get a new 858 last night but can't figure out how you can get the exposure from the H&D curve data. That is, it looks to me like you have to base your exposure on Zone V. How do you place a scene value on the low zone clip point and have it give you the exposure? I don't see that the meter can do this.Page 154. Choose -4, -3, +3, +4.
That’s Zone System (by definition) no profiling needed.
Or you can get the target gray card and shoot it in one-stop brackets from -5 to +5 stops, print and then take densitometer readings of each patch... to really profile the meter.
I'll take your best one. Do you need my shipping address?Just buy a good used Pentax digital spot meter,.. I have three...
Doremus
Being dyslexic, I do understand the value of visual aids. We all process information differently. I use a Sekonic L-508 and it's way easier with your zone scale. Thanks Ralph for such a wonderful tool!not sue but many of his students advocated them. AA probably didn't need one; he thought in Zones.
One points the meter at a subject and measures the zone II value. The meter shows f1.3 on the digital display.
You then point the meter at two highlights and get f17 and f20.7. What are the two highlight zones using your method?
You want to over-expose by 1/3 stop for the bellows factor. Which f-stop do you set on the lens with your method to take this picture?
A) f3.7
B) f7.3
C) f2.6
D) Where is my Zone scale/???
I also use the Profi-Spot and 7/15 adapters on a couple of SBCs. The spot attachment works very well, find the dark shadow and meter, adjust the dial to -3, set the exposure, find the highlight and how far it is from +3 determines development. Only downside is the size of the assembly. I'm sure internal baffling could be improved, but I have not seen it as an issue with my photography.It also takes the Profi-Spot attachment, which will give you 10º - 5º - 1º metering capability and built in dioptre correction. Mine works a treat.
Going very slightly off topic, combine the Profi-Spot attachment and the Profi-Flex attachment, I have the possibility to have various narrow metering capabilities, as well as off the ground glass for what is effectively TTL metering on my view cameras.
The 7.5º and 15º attachment is not bad, but compared to the 10º - 5º - 1º attachment, not in the same league. I have both of these attachments, both have their plusses and minuses.
Mick.
View attachment 193720
I was almost going to get a new 858 last night but can't figure out how you can get the exposure from the H&D curve data. That is, it looks to me like you have to base your exposure on Zone V. How do you place a scene value on the low zone clip point and have it give you the exposure? I don't see that the meter can do this.
After reading the 585 manual over I did appear that indeed the exposure profile is ONLY FOR DIGITAL, as there is no way to have it properly expose negative film based on a shadow density. Is that correct?
A light meter measures light, irrespective of the type of camera you are using. What you do with those measurements is up to you. I use my meters for both film and digital photography, and they work equally well for both.I naively expected a name-brand meter manufacturer to make contemporary computer-controlled meter for film photography and I'm ranting about lack of film photography support.
I'm looking for an exposure meter for film photography that indicates camera settings. Not a light meter, although some of them are very high spec. and very expensive.A light meter measures light, irrespective of the type of camera you are using. What you do with those measurements is up to you. I use my meters for both film and digital photography, and they work equally well for both.
I have three meters. They all measure light. I use them to determine exposure. To make that determination, I evaluate the light measurements and make judgments. In other words, I think. I am not unique. And it is not nearly as complicated as you are trying to make it.I'm looking for an exposure meter for film photography that indicates camera settings. Not a light meter, although some of them are very high spec. and very expensive.
I have read the manual on L-778, it has many similarities to the L-558 I'm getting.I have a Sekonic L-778. I don't want or need its ability to be programmed for a film curve nor do I want or need a Zone System dial (display). A very simple spot meter will do.
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