The reason no one makes stickers for the new meters, including the manufacturers, is that the new meters have digital readouts.
The reason no one makes stickers for the new meters, including the manufacturers, is that the new meters have digital readouts.Yes, and the lack of any manufacturer making a NEW version of that with the sticker already in place, is the root of this thread!
I just had a colonoscopy and the sensor with the long probe makes me wonder if it's a meter for medical photography.It also takes the Profi-Spot attachment, which will give you 10º - 5º - 1º metering capability and built in dioptre correction. Mine works a treat.
Going very slightly off topic, combine the Profi-Spot attachment and the Profi-Flex attachment, I have the possibility to have various narrow metering capabilities, as well as off the ground glass for what is effectively TTL metering on my view cameras.
The 7.5º and 15º attachment is not bad, but compared to the 10º - 5º - 1º attachment, not in the same league. I have both of these attachments, both have their plusses and minuses.
Mick.
View attachment 193720
I meant 'the sticker' as a metaphor for "Zone Metering" of any type.The reason no one makes stickers for the new meters, including the manufacturers, is that the new meters have digital readouts.
Folks, I truly intend no disrespect. But what's so difficult about calculating f-stops? The only real difference between a ZS enabled meter and one which isn't is, the former converts the math from f-stop 5.6/8/11 to 1/2/3... or 4/5/6... or ?/?/?... depending on where Zones are placed.
I think you can safely round f1.3 up to f1.4, round f17 down to f16, and round f20.7 up f22. So you've got Zone II, Zone IX and Zone X. You are going to need minus development. How much depends on what Zone you want to put your highlights on.
Good luck setting you shutter speed and aperture to the exact result, even assuming they are accurate. And to the minus development, well, make sure you don't sneeze while agitating. It really screws up the results.NO! NO! NO! Zone-eastas must do things exactly. Rounding off and approximations are not allowed after thousands of hours spent in repetitive and redundant testing!
One points the meter at a subject and measures the zone II value. The meter shows f1.3 on the digital display.
You then point the meter at two highlights and get f17 and f20.7. What are the two highlight zones using your method?
You want to over-expose by 1/3 stop for the bellows factor. Which f-stop do you set on the lens with your method to take this picture?
A) f3.7
B) f7.3
C) f2.6
D) Where is my Zone scale/???
And how, in your example, will that change your shutter speed/f-stop selection, and subsequent processing. The precision you are after is a red herring. At some point you are going to have to look up from your whiz bang meter and press the shutter.If you round one value UP and another DOWN by a 1/4 stop, the difference between the values is off by 1/2 stop.
Good luck setting you shutter speed and aperture to the exact result, even assuming they are accurate. And to the minus development, well, make sure you don't sneeze while agitating. It really screws up the results.
And what did your whiz bang meter tell you to do? What did you conclude after careful calculation?The resultant F-stop to set on the lens can be rounded or estimated if desired. But one first needs to know the value by calculating it from the given data. Shutter speed and development parameters do not need to be know to find the required aperture from the data.
I get your point. I can only guess you're referring to slide film?? What Zone do you want placed where?
NO! NO! NO! Zone-eastas must do things exactly. Rounding off and approximations are not allowed after thousands of hours spent in repetitive and redundant testing!
Good luck setting you shutter speed and aperture to the exact result, even assuming they are accurate. And to the minus development, well, make sure you don't sneeze while agitating. It really screws up the results.
If you round one value UP and another DOWN by a 1/4 stop, the difference between the values is off by 1/2 stop.
And how, in your example, will that change your shutter speed/f-stop selection, and subsequent processing. The precision you are after is a red herring. At some point you are going to have to look up from your whiz bang meter and press the shutter.
The resultant F-stop to set on the lens can be rounded or estimated if desired. But one first needs to know the value by calculating it from the given data. Shutter speed and development parameters do not need to be know to find the required aperture from the data.
IC... yes, we must remember what we've done... rounding up/down and decide whether to go high or low or split the difference. One half f-stop is only relevant when shooting slide film or living right on the very edge of underexposure for negative film.
The meter is in the mail, so I have not tried this yet, but three clicks of the jog wheel (zone II to V) should scroll through the zones, and it would have displayed f3.7. It has a exposure factor function (separate from the filter factor on the jog wheel) and that can be set to 1/3. The manual does not say what happens when it is set to display 1/4 stops and you ask for a 1/3 stop correction. I'm guessing it will round and display 2.6. I don't know exactly what it will do.And what did your whiz bang meter tell you to do? What did you conclude after careful calculation?
How have you been determining exposure up until now?In my problem above, my choice is "Where is My Zone Dial!"
My old-standby L-206 is fully analog. It has the traditional metering ring. Just swing it around a stop at a time. I do Zone meter just exactly like you are suggesting, by spinning the dial and count as I go. rounding higher or lower than the numbers based on if the needle is above or below the mark. Again, my rant is not against you. You are right. It is against the digital meter with no analog ring to spin or no ZONE SCALE in the software!How have you been determining exposure up until now?
It also takes the Profi-Spot attachment, which will give you 10º - 5º - 1º metering capability and built in dioptre correction. Mine works a treat.
Going very slightly off topic, combine the Profi-Spot attachment and the Profi-Flex attachment, I have the possibility to have various narrow metering capabilities, as well as off the ground glass for what is effectively TTL metering on my view cameras.
The 7.5º and 15º attachment is not bad, but compared to the 10º - 5º - 1º attachment, not in the same league. I have both of these attachments, both have their plusses and minuses.
Mick.
View attachment 193720
Bill, thanks for seeing the thread, I was hoping for some Sekonic users to chime in.I use this zone sticker on my L-758DR
http://beefalobill.com/images/zone.pdf
Stupidly simple, instead of the factory clipping points, I adjust the clipping points to fall on whole stops. Then this sticker relates any one reading to a Zone... I give you I, II, V, VIII and IX... you have to imagine the rest.
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