I think you are right if you are talking about dichromate bleaching. In H2O2 bleaching, I think we end up with a combination of the original AgBr which is very light sensitive, and something else that is much less light sensitive. It's quite possible that the 2nd exposure could be enough to make the original AgBr max black before the "other stuff" starts to get tone, or at least much tone. But I haven't seen a pure bright white yet, so maybe I haven't found the right exposure yet or maybe it's impossible. IDK! I haven't finished figuring out the re-exposure yet... I'm still getting some blocked up shadows but the midtones are separating out really nicely. I think contrast control is very important, especially with paper negatives, if we get control, it's a good thing In my tests, the remaining AgBr keeps its VC qualities ( responds differently to blue and green re-exposure ). I know for sure that the "other stuff" is sensitive all the way down to green, because in some early tests I fogged the highlights with only green light, but I don't know any more than that. I wonder if there's much "overhead" on paper. What I mean is, in some places there may be more AgBr than is necessary to reach black... if that's true ( I have no idea if it is ) then in your example it might be possible to bring out a little more detail with additional 2nd exposure. With H2O2 I don't think there could be any advantage that way... extra re-exposure will just add tone to the highlights, not bring out detail better than with dichromate. At least that's my guess!