Polaroid 110b 4x5 snap shooter with a lens interchangeable system!
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This is utterly fascinating. Keep it up.
I have a 110A which I'm planning to do a simple conversion to, but your work is superb and an inspiration. If I got mine half as good as yours I'd be happy with it.
I have a 110A which I'm planning to do a simple conversion to, but your work is superb and an inspiration. If I got mine half as good as yours I'd be happy with it.
Hey Farside, don't let the chance go easily, here you can ask any question about your conversion, me and my brother Dean would love to provide answers for your reference. Or even more, we may provide different way of solutions!! 
And you may inspire us for improvements!
And you may inspire us for improvements!
Now, for a easier way to mount/un-mount this big eye, I need to develop another front standard/ lens board system, differ from the previous version.
They will be similar to normal view camera, with a somewhat rectangular lens board, and front standard will have a spring clip to lock the board.
The board, with maximum size of open hole to 60mm, Byron surely expands its lenses option, and since front standard extrudes a little bit, avoiding struts conflicting with shutter, so #2 shutter is possible too.
But the best thing this new system brings, is the opportunity to embrace 75mm wide angle lens without any difficulty. Previous version lens board takes 75mm too, but camera bed will block a little bit at one side, shading the image.
With new design, it may be no problem any more, but I need test first.
New system is specifically designed for big size lenses, it may not allow lens to stay in camera body when folded. I will try to keep the lens in, if lens board reverse the direction.
Oh, another minor thing, bellows needs new size too, for those big rear...
I got a Grandagon 4.5/75mm lens in #0 shutter, the one shown in image above, a beauty.
New front standard/ lens board system plans to take this lens as wide angle end limit, not because front standard extruding or backward some distance, to avoid the blocking of camera bed, but by rising the lens a little bit.
It is about 7mm blocking on one side of frame, caused by lens backward too much thus camera bed shades the frame. It is no use to change lens board or front standard, because the distance requirement between lens and focal plane is fixed when focusing at infinity.
The only chance to avoid the blocking, is to rise the lens.
I checked Grandagon data, it has 195mm image circle in f22, so there is plenty area to move.
Image above shows the reason one side of frame is blocked, 75mm lens to way too much backward, thus makes camera bed extruding and blocking the frame. On other LF camera like Technika, camera bed can be fall down a bit, to avoid the blocking, but Byron can not fall down the bed.
Another way to solve the problem, is by rising the lens a bit, makes less blocking area, thus eliminates the shading in negative area.
This way works in two conditions, 1. lens image circle is big enough for rising. 2. lens rise enough distance.
195mm image circle is big enough for rising, the only problem is how high we can rise the lens?
In new front standard/ lens board system, front standard opening size is big, 61mm in diameter! Even bigger than previous version's lens board (60mm). images above shows that a #0 shutter should be able to rise no less than10mm, I believe it should solve the blocking problem.
But again, I need the test to approve it.
And why 61mm in dia. opening? Well, I want to directly mount the lens, and Grandagon 75 has a 60mm dia rear, that is why.
They will be similar to normal view camera, with a somewhat rectangular lens board, and front standard will have a spring clip to lock the board.
The board, with maximum size of open hole to 60mm, Byron surely expands its lenses option, and since front standard extrudes a little bit, avoiding struts conflicting with shutter, so #2 shutter is possible too.
But the best thing this new system brings, is the opportunity to embrace 75mm wide angle lens without any difficulty. Previous version lens board takes 75mm too, but camera bed will block a little bit at one side, shading the image.
With new design, it may be no problem any more, but I need test first.
New system is specifically designed for big size lenses, it may not allow lens to stay in camera body when folded. I will try to keep the lens in, if lens board reverse the direction.
Oh, another minor thing, bellows needs new size too, for those big rear...
I got a Grandagon 4.5/75mm lens in #0 shutter, the one shown in image above, a beauty.
New front standard/ lens board system plans to take this lens as wide angle end limit, not because front standard extruding or backward some distance, to avoid the blocking of camera bed, but by rising the lens a little bit.
It is about 7mm blocking on one side of frame, caused by lens backward too much thus camera bed shades the frame. It is no use to change lens board or front standard, because the distance requirement between lens and focal plane is fixed when focusing at infinity.
The only chance to avoid the blocking, is to rise the lens.
I checked Grandagon data, it has 195mm image circle in f22, so there is plenty area to move.
Image above shows the reason one side of frame is blocked, 75mm lens to way too much backward, thus makes camera bed extruding and blocking the frame. On other LF camera like Technika, camera bed can be fall down a bit, to avoid the blocking, but Byron can not fall down the bed.
Another way to solve the problem, is by rising the lens a bit, makes less blocking area, thus eliminates the shading in negative area.
This way works in two conditions, 1. lens image circle is big enough for rising. 2. lens rise enough distance.
195mm image circle is big enough for rising, the only problem is how high we can rise the lens?
In new front standard/ lens board system, front standard opening size is big, 61mm in diameter! Even bigger than previous version's lens board (60mm). images above shows that a #0 shutter should be able to rise no less than10mm, I believe it should solve the blocking problem.
But again, I need the test to approve it.
And why 61mm in dia. opening? Well, I want to directly mount the lens, and Grandagon 75 has a 60mm dia rear, that is why.
Prototype came back this afternoon, new front standard is easy to use. Here two types of front standard sit side by side, with circular/ rectangular lens board accordingly.
New front standard has a sliding lock at the top, it is big, so you can grab it with fingers very easy.
You hold the sliding lock and pull it upward, that release the lens board, you release the lock, with help of springs, lock slides back and locks the board, that easy.
Front view of prototype, light trap around lens board keeps light away.
Like I said before, this front standard is great when you use big eyes, here are what I tested.. two Xenotar 2.8/150 with #2 shutter, one Xenotar 3.5/135 with #1 shutter, one Tele Arton 5.5/270 with #1 shutter, one Super Angulon 8/90 with #0 shutter, one Grandagon 4.5/75 with #0 shutter.
Only Xenotar 2.8/150 needs to be mounted in-directly, others all are capable of directly mounted.
Thanks to NY Jeff, push me to solve problem mounting Xenotar 2.8/150 on Byron, without him, I would not make it!
This is the biggest lens Byron can hold, rear element is too big, can not mount the lens directly, what a pity.
Funny thing is that almost emails came asking about Xenotar 150 are fashion photographers, but that make sense, this heavy big lens is too bulky for snaps.
Tele Arton 5.5/270, very easy to mount on, but I need to test the rail limit.
And for Grandagon 4.5/75; SA 8/90 and Xenotar 3.5/135, this front standard is easy to mount directly.
Now is time for minor modifications, round corners, dimension adjusts......
and matte black surface paint.
New front standard has a sliding lock at the top, it is big, so you can grab it with fingers very easy.
You hold the sliding lock and pull it upward, that release the lens board, you release the lock, with help of springs, lock slides back and locks the board, that easy.
Front view of prototype, light trap around lens board keeps light away.
Like I said before, this front standard is great when you use big eyes, here are what I tested.. two Xenotar 2.8/150 with #2 shutter, one Xenotar 3.5/135 with #1 shutter, one Tele Arton 5.5/270 with #1 shutter, one Super Angulon 8/90 with #0 shutter, one Grandagon 4.5/75 with #0 shutter.
Only Xenotar 2.8/150 needs to be mounted in-directly, others all are capable of directly mounted.
Thanks to NY Jeff, push me to solve problem mounting Xenotar 2.8/150 on Byron, without him, I would not make it!
This is the biggest lens Byron can hold, rear element is too big, can not mount the lens directly, what a pity.
Funny thing is that almost emails came asking about Xenotar 150 are fashion photographers, but that make sense, this heavy big lens is too bulky for snaps.
Tele Arton 5.5/270, very easy to mount on, but I need to test the rail limit.
And for Grandagon 4.5/75; SA 8/90 and Xenotar 3.5/135, this front standard is easy to mount directly.
Now is time for minor modifications, round corners, dimension adjusts......
and matte black surface paint.
Hi Mate...Did you receive any help from NY William? LOL. This idea is much better than a bayonet mount....I like it..wish you lived closer to Melbourne.
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You're right...it's time for me to end production of the 'RAZZLE' this coming November. After nine years I think it is time for a new approach...
Basic concept is clear, so we conclude the steps of calibration as following..
1. Zeroing: set the lens to infinity, and make sure the mirror arm is attached with cam, on the mark line.
2. Align overlay image at infinity object.
3. Align overlay image at closer object.
That are all steps we will follow, then here comes the detail...
Settings
1. Byron camera with prime lens, ground glass panel, magnifying loupe, tripod.
2. Screw drivers, one tiny flat head, one normal philips head.
3. A sunny day and clear view
Choose a contrasty object as infinity target, like a high-voltage tower, about 2 km away from my house.
4. A high contrast object for close focusing
What I pick is a Big number calender panel. Hang it on wall, at the same height of the tripod, parallel with camera.
Step 1. RF housing removal
* Byron uses two screws to hold the RF housing, one is beneath the cold shoe, you need to remove tiny screw on top, and peel apart the plastic sheet to reveal the screw.
* Another one is in the side plate of film chamber, this screw need a long neck driver, or you can temporary take off the sliding tooth set for easier un-screwing.
* Once two screws are removed, carefully take the housing off, and put it aside.
* Now the RF mechanical parts are revealed, what we will adjust later are three parts, as explained at beginning, they are fixed screw, mirror, and lens cam (from left to right).
Step 2. Zeroing
Now we are going to calibrate infinity end, this is no extension for rail, so called zeroing.
* Mount Byron onto the tripod, face the infinity object. (high voltage tower)
* Mount on your prime lens, here is a Ysarex 4.7/127mm lens as example, if your prime lens is 150mm, mount it on.
* Pull the front standard to the correspond infinity stop, engage the groove. Byron engraves lens length for each infinity stop, so it is easy to distinguish.
* Set shutter to B, and with a cable release lock, make the lens shutter keep opening, and the aperture to full opening.
* Make sure that rail is not extended, distance scale marked on infinity. You can check with loupe on ground glass panel.
* Check lens cam, mirror arm should engage cam curve at the engraved line, adjust the cam by loosing locking screw if necessary.
* View through the RF eye window, align the tower in the center, observe the overlaying image, do necessary adjustments, till images align with each other.
* (In this step, we use two screws on mirror for adjustment)
Step 3. Close distance calibration
* After zeroing, turn camera to close distance object (calender), adjust camera distance to object about 4 feet, about the nearest distance the lens can focus.
* with loupe and ground glass panel, turn the focus knob to focus the object, after focus is set, DO NOT TOUCH THE KNOB ANYMORE!
* View through the RF eye window, align the object in center, observe the overlaying image, do necessary adjustments, till images align with each other.
* (In this step, we use fixed screw for adjustment)
Step 4. Re-check, further adjustment
* Both infinity and close ends are calibrated, we re-check the result by turning back to face the infinity, to see if images in eye window keep align or not.
* If overlay images keep align, then the calibration is done, and you can put back the RF housing.
* If overlay images are not aligned with each other, then it may caused by wrong cam curve section. By loose the cam locking screw and turn the cam a bit, to make overlay images align again.
* Repeat step 1~3, make necessary adjustments, till overlay images keep align on both end.
These are steps for calibration, I hope this answer some questions concerning about the RF adjustments.
And for Byron whose prime lens is set to 150mm, the original 127mm lens cam is replaced by custom made 150mm lens cam, they look alike, but curve is little bit different. (left: 150mm cam, right: 127mm cam)
Sometimes new cam needs a little bit of filing to match the lens, because each lens got its own character! That belongs to advanced fine tuning...
First I'd just like to say you do beautiful work, some of the best back and rail systems I've seen, super clean and smooth. The info here was very informative as I'm having a small issue coupling the rangefinder on my 900. I'm using a 150mm Calumet Caltar Type-S f/5,6 on a home made standard from hard woods. I'm still working to get the 150mm into infinity due to the stop won't reach far enough back. I've installed a 600SE release for removable backs and this is what( I truly believe) has caused the problems as it to far off to reach because the 900s infinity stop only goes back to the focus wheel. All I need is about 5mm more but have not found a way around this due to there is a need for the standard to clip into the bracket from all the weight up there. I've been trying to come up with some sort of other clip for the Mamiya backs (these are my favorite films, cheap, easy to find on trips and I get 120, cut film, small wet plates and Impossible films as well) but nothing that's stable enough so far to trust out in the field. As i'm sure you know the bracket for the film backs is fairly thick and if there was another way to not use piece I would. I've tried my 210mm but of coarse this is way to much. I've been looking for some time now to find a better way, It was all put together and out taking beautiful shots with it but of coarse I was dependent on the ground glass till this issue is resolved, so it has been disassembled until a way is found but as you could guess I'm really excited to get it back together to go out and play. If you have any suggestions i'd be open to anything, all I have is limited tools and most the work is done by hand so I'm limited by this.
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