Polaroid 110b 4x5 snap shooter with a lens interchangeable system!
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In my own opinion, that a camera equipped with only one socket for tripod is a stupid idea for the purpose of mounting securely. One socket provides as a pivot for camera to rotate, only the friction that between the base and the quick release plate stops it from turning, so you have to screw it really really really tight, tight enough to leave scratches and scars on base, but still that doesn't guarantee camera from turning around, especially on heavier camera, like Linhof Technika IV I owned. I can't stop thinking why the designers in Linhof not awaring this problem, just one socket for this heavy brick?!! Do they field test the camera or not?
Maybe I am too picky, or think too much, but there are many quick release plates smartly designed with two supports, so camera will really securely sticked with the plate, there is no way you can rotate the camera, even if screwing not so tight.
This has to be accomplished by a match camera base, with two sockets, one for screw, one for support. So I decide to make one more socket accompanied by the screw socket, that will bring us more secure support.
Remember to use the quick release plate with two supports!!
And then there is another similar situation, when you use a bracket or an accessory plate, one socket of such a long arm is not enough, one more socket for screw is necessary, so there I go, another 1/4 screw socket at side for it.
So Byron has three sockets on base, two as a pair, and another one for bracket.
I think those heavy cameras should all do the same design as well.
Maybe I am too picky, or think too much, but there are many quick release plates smartly designed with two supports, so camera will really securely sticked with the plate, there is no way you can rotate the camera, even if screwing not so tight.
This has to be accomplished by a match camera base, with two sockets, one for screw, one for support. So I decide to make one more socket accompanied by the screw socket, that will bring us more secure support.
Remember to use the quick release plate with two supports!!
And then there is another similar situation, when you use a bracket or an accessory plate, one socket of such a long arm is not enough, one more socket for screw is necessary, so there I go, another 1/4 screw socket at side for it.
So Byron has three sockets on base, two as a pair, and another one for bracket.
I think those heavy cameras should all do the same design as well.
Good idea. The left hand grip for the RB67 works on a similar principle. Central 1/4" thread with a locating pin on either side.
I am going to have to design something similar for the 6x12 camera I am currently building.
Steve.
I am going to have to design something similar for the 6x12 camera I am currently building.
Steve.
There is a hastily assembled assembled web page here showing progress so far: http://stevesmithphoto.webs.com/pano612.html
If you have looked at this before, I have added an update which includes part of the oak case and the pressure plate.
When it's finished I will do a better write up hopefully with some good pictures!
Steve.
Salihonba, that is a beautiful piece of work. Congratulations.
Made a minor improvement on the outlook, nothing to do with the function or optical performance, but purely on visual aspect.
Original outlook of the film chamber cover was milled flat and filled with a thin layer of steel, thus showed its trace after covering.
no one ever criticized about this, but myself can not live with it! so there is detail about improving this on my blog.
Original outlook of the film chamber cover was milled flat and filled with a thin layer of steel, thus showed its trace after covering.
no one ever criticized about this, but myself can not live with it! so there is detail about improving this on my blog.
Blocked by left side teeth and blocking plate, I said that 3x4 Polaroid instant film hold could be used on Byron, but had to use 10 flims every time, in my last blog.
Well, not true anymore.
That's ridiculous to force user to shoot 10 instant film every time.
So I tried to solve this problem. One guy in other forum asked about the similar question, his camera blocking the dark slide from inserting back, I suggested him to cut out the part that blocks, and then think maybe I can solve my problem in similar way.
But not to cut out something, thus, to replace something.
Since the slide is not so stiff, plastic dark slide now can be pulled out or inserted back anytime during the shooting.
Well, not true anymore.
That's ridiculous to force user to shoot 10 instant film every time.
So I tried to solve this problem. One guy in other forum asked about the similar question, his camera blocking the dark slide from inserting back, I suggested him to cut out the part that blocks, and then think maybe I can solve my problem in similar way.
But not to cut out something, thus, to replace something.
Since the slide is not so stiff, plastic dark slide now can be pulled out or inserted back anytime during the shooting.
Re-design Polaroid instant 3x4 film holder cover lock in two versions, one from me, in two days, another one from my 7/yo son George, in 10 seconds, and I think his idea is much better than mine!
detail in my blog.
detail in my blog.
I decided to named my J66 WA 4x5 rangefolder "Emily".
The basic frame is ready
Accept lens in focal length 90mm and shorter, I hope to mount a 47mm lens to see how it looks like.
She will be a fixed lens WA 4x5, share the same back system with Byron, but need a new designed helical focus system.
Keep working on it. on her.
You know what? Comparing with the single plastic lens that J66 uses as taking lens, its rangefinder made in much better quality, really don't know what was Polaroid thinking when designing J66.
The basic frame is ready
Accept lens in focal length 90mm and shorter, I hope to mount a 47mm lens to see how it looks like.
She will be a fixed lens WA 4x5, share the same back system with Byron, but need a new designed helical focus system.
Keep working on it. on her.
You know what? Comparing with the single plastic lens that J66 uses as taking lens, its rangefinder made in much better quality, really don't know what was Polaroid thinking when designing J66.
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Just found out that I never post images of storing chamber, so here they are:
Shutter release and lens cloth can be stored in the chamber, door closed tightly, controlled by a tiny screw just under the eye cup (a silver shinny one), can be adjusted if you feel it too tight or loose.
Shutter release and lens cloth can be stored in the chamber, door closed tightly, controlled by a tiny screw just under the eye cup (a silver shinny one), can be adjusted if you feel it too tight or loose.
Looks good, that's a very interesting conversion, I would find a small 5x4 camera with a 90mm lens very useful.
Ian
Ian
That bothers me, so I face it and solve it.
The cold shoe, was bought from HK, I took it apart and installed it on Byron with a custom base. It looks like this:
Thought that would be a nice solution to convert original shoe into a international standard size, so I order some from HK again, and made the base in small quantity.
But then I realized that these "made in China" products are unstable in size, some are too tight for mounting, some are OK and some too loose, that bothers me, a lot!
Rather than being complained by my clients, I prefer to face it in advance.
So all these cold shoes and bases are abandoned, I ask my mechanist to make a new one for me.
Byron need only one screw to fix, the second hole is designed for Emily, I planed to implant two or three shoe mounts on her, three in a row! You can install a view finder, a range finder, and a level or a flash at the same time!
Borrowing from lens board, luckily I don't have to order new custom size of stop fixer screws,
Now the shoe is made in one piece.
But for those accessories doesn't have a locking screw, this shoe is little loose to them. I asked the price to order a tiny spring plate for shoe, but gave up of the cost.
So to mount an accessory that without locking-screw, and seems loose, you can:
1. insert a little piece of paper in the shoe, then insert the accessory.
2. use Scotch 3M tape, paste a little piece in the shoe.
3. insert a transfer shoe mount first, then insert your view finder
So the only one part I bought from ready-made, is the 3/8 to 1/4 tripod socket.
People tells me that they rarely use 3/8 tripod anymore, no need for an adapter. Well, I am kind of old fashion, alway keep the option.
Oh, by the way, I add a little rubber button for the shutter release, because days before a lady who loves to take pictures operated Byron, and she couldn't find the release, finally she found it, and she said that the release is not handy for a girl with little palm size like her, better if she didn't have to press it so deep.
The cold shoe, was bought from HK, I took it apart and installed it on Byron with a custom base. It looks like this:
Thought that would be a nice solution to convert original shoe into a international standard size, so I order some from HK again, and made the base in small quantity.
But then I realized that these "made in China" products are unstable in size, some are too tight for mounting, some are OK and some too loose, that bothers me, a lot!
Rather than being complained by my clients, I prefer to face it in advance.
So all these cold shoes and bases are abandoned, I ask my mechanist to make a new one for me.
Byron need only one screw to fix, the second hole is designed for Emily, I planed to implant two or three shoe mounts on her, three in a row! You can install a view finder, a range finder, and a level or a flash at the same time!
Borrowing from lens board, luckily I don't have to order new custom size of stop fixer screws,
Now the shoe is made in one piece.
But for those accessories doesn't have a locking screw, this shoe is little loose to them. I asked the price to order a tiny spring plate for shoe, but gave up of the cost.
So to mount an accessory that without locking-screw, and seems loose, you can:
1. insert a little piece of paper in the shoe, then insert the accessory.
2. use Scotch 3M tape, paste a little piece in the shoe.
3. insert a transfer shoe mount first, then insert your view finder
So the only one part I bought from ready-made, is the 3/8 to 1/4 tripod socket.
People tells me that they rarely use 3/8 tripod anymore, no need for an adapter. Well, I am kind of old fashion, alway keep the option.
Oh, by the way, I add a little rubber button for the shutter release, because days before a lady who loves to take pictures operated Byron, and she couldn't find the release, finally she found it, and she said that the release is not handy for a girl with little palm size like her, better if she didn't have to press it so deep.
110B camera was designed for 127mm lens, it's flat bed has 20mm of rail moving range, enough for 127 lens to focus from infinity to 3 feet.
Now we are planning to use 150mm lens on it, 20mm range just makes150 lens focusing from infinity to 5 feet, I tried to extend the moving range flat bed, but fail, because the arm connecting the lens cam is not able to extend any longer.
That makes 20mm rail very precious, we should utilize all the range on focusing purpose.
When lens focuses at infinity, it gets shortest distance from lens to focal plane, and then distance added when focusing near objects. So we need at least locate the i.stop position for 150mm lens on flat bed, then utilize the rail movement for object within range.
But the bed is so long to accommodate all 150mm lenses' i.stop, some 150 need little more extension for infinity stop. Previous post has discussed about this situation before. (We will discuss about variety of 150mm lenses later).
Images below shows some i.stop for 150 needs no extension, but some need about 4mm of extension to achieve the shortest distance.
4mm of rail movement for i.stop, means that focus range will be shrinked from 5 feet to maybe 6 feet, which is, definitely not tolerated.
The solution? we should try to make 4mm extrudes of the lens when mounted, so to keep the precious full 20mm rail movement on focusing.
So here is the answer, besides normal lens board, there are extruding version.
That complicates the parts we need, but it worth it, because not only it solve the 150mm lens problem, it also allows us to use #1 shutter on Byron.
Extruding ring makes #1 shutter avoiding the collision with struts. Next time I will try my Angulon 6.8/120 on Byron!!
Image below shows Heliar 4.5/15cm lens on Linhof #1 shutter, from Prof. Don, when the lens arrived I measure the shutter, it is OK to mount on normal lens board, but struts on both sides makes operation awkward, but now with this extruding lens board, not only solves the i.stop location problem, also makes this big shutter operates easily and cozy.
Do you see it? Don?
Now we are planning to use 150mm lens on it, 20mm range just makes150 lens focusing from infinity to 5 feet, I tried to extend the moving range flat bed, but fail, because the arm connecting the lens cam is not able to extend any longer.
That makes 20mm rail very precious, we should utilize all the range on focusing purpose.
When lens focuses at infinity, it gets shortest distance from lens to focal plane, and then distance added when focusing near objects. So we need at least locate the i.stop position for 150mm lens on flat bed, then utilize the rail movement for object within range.
But the bed is so long to accommodate all 150mm lenses' i.stop, some 150 need little more extension for infinity stop. Previous post has discussed about this situation before. (We will discuss about variety of 150mm lenses later).
Images below shows some i.stop for 150 needs no extension, but some need about 4mm of extension to achieve the shortest distance.
4mm of rail movement for i.stop, means that focus range will be shrinked from 5 feet to maybe 6 feet, which is, definitely not tolerated.
The solution? we should try to make 4mm extrudes of the lens when mounted, so to keep the precious full 20mm rail movement on focusing.
So here is the answer, besides normal lens board, there are extruding version.
That complicates the parts we need, but it worth it, because not only it solve the 150mm lens problem, it also allows us to use #1 shutter on Byron.
Extruding ring makes #1 shutter avoiding the collision with struts. Next time I will try my Angulon 6.8/120 on Byron!!
Image below shows Heliar 4.5/15cm lens on Linhof #1 shutter, from Prof. Don, when the lens arrived I measure the shutter, it is OK to mount on normal lens board, but struts on both sides makes operation awkward, but now with this extruding lens board, not only solves the i.stop location problem, also makes this big shutter operates easily and cozy.
Do you see it? Don?
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Analyzed some 150mm lenses on Byron, detail in my blog.
Conclusion, best choice: Rodenstock Geronar 5.6/150, reason: can stay in camera when fold up.
secondary: Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (old version), reason:directly mount/un-mount
Conclusion, best choice: Rodenstock Geronar 5.6/150, reason: can stay in camera when fold up.
secondary: Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (old version), reason:directly mount/un-mount
Each Byron is converted by clients request, especially for the lenses they picked. Different combinations of brands and types of lens, shutter, it definitely needs each lens' infinity stop be measured specifically.
After individual measurement for each lens, then the i.stop engraving need help by my mechanist.
A special T type lathe knife was ordered.
The knife will engrave the plate a 1 mm width ditch, to keep and hold the front standard. Measurements are precised down to 0.01mm, with a CNC lathe machine, that will do the job very well.
And now my mechanist will make a fixture tooling, to hold the plate in fixed position.
Fix the plate in vertical position, and lathe tiny ditch according the measurements.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gvRcWa2LHhg/Sz9H457JlVI/AAAAAAAAEbU/P7O2sBgNa1U/s400/P1021169.JPG
Then the plate is engraved the focal length by the ditch, for identification. I need some more practice of engraving......
For my own reason, to ensure pairing the plate with matched camera body, I engraved each owner's name on the back of the plate.
Then the installation, and rechecked the focus. Noticed that 90mm lens distance scale at the right side? that is for un-coupled focus.
After individual measurement for each lens, then the i.stop engraving need help by my mechanist.
A special T type lathe knife was ordered.
The knife will engrave the plate a 1 mm width ditch, to keep and hold the front standard. Measurements are precised down to 0.01mm, with a CNC lathe machine, that will do the job very well.
And now my mechanist will make a fixture tooling, to hold the plate in fixed position.
Fix the plate in vertical position, and lathe tiny ditch according the measurements.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gvRcWa2LHhg/Sz9H457JlVI/AAAAAAAAEbU/P7O2sBgNa1U/s400/P1021169.JPG
Then the plate is engraved the focal length by the ditch, for identification. I need some more practice of engraving......
For my own reason, to ensure pairing the plate with matched camera body, I engraved each owner's name on the back of the plate.
Then the installation, and rechecked the focus. Noticed that 90mm lens distance scale at the right side? that is for un-coupled focus.
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