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Help with Kodak RA4 Chemistry

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mshchem

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You need to print out the entire Z-130 manual for Ektacolor chemistry. Go to Kinkos or someone who can print out on both sides on heavy paper and put it in a binder.

Kodak and Fuji chemistry was identical in the day. You would find the exact same dilutions, starter volumes etc.

Today PSI is simply manufacturing chemistry as Eastman Kodak did back in the day. Nothing is new and improved. The big processing labs never desired change so nothing has. 🥳
 
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arespencer

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Yes! Perfect. You have enough starter to sell individual bottles 😀 Cinestill is trying to sell case quantities of everything to push individuals into the kits. I use cut sheets from B&H DP2

Haha yeah I’ve got enough to last me awhile. I do print somewhat high volume ish so I’m sure I’ll go through it in a reasonable time.

B&H has cut sheets of DPII???? I did recently notice that they now sell rolls of DPII which I’m almost positive they didn’t up until recently because I’ve been trying to source it for the last couple years in the states. I definitely need a cheaper option because my last paper order from London was $615 for 300 sheets of 10x12.
 
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arespencer

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Boy I want some. But I want cut sheets. Adox here's a niche that can be filled

In LA I see more and more people working with film and darkroom printing (professionals and hobbyist). Hopefully this helps support the industry and brings more papers to market.
 

koraks

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Who other than Drew has access to Maxima?
Drew doesn't in fact. He's mentioned it several times. I could, but I don't bother with the long rolls since I mostly/only print small and don't sell my prints, and therefore stick with DPII.

Was hoping to do a wash in the drum at 30° and then into a print washing tray at tap water then into a dryer.
That's fine. You can wash at virtually any temperature you want, but I wouldn't go below room temperature. The cooler the wash, the longer it needs to be. You can always compare a well-washed sample (unexposed) to the border of your washed prints. If the prints aren't fully washed, you'll notice the whites are ever so slightly warm in hue. You'll never notice it if you don't compare side by side; it's easily missed.

Kodak and Fuji chemistry was identical in the day.
There's no such thing as "fuji chemistry". There are currently at least two manufacturers of FUJIFILM photo chemistry; one in Japan and one in Belgium. Both have fairly extensive product ranges and there can be (often are) different products for the same application (color paper, C41, E6) - and they generally have different dilutions etc. So there's no way you can compare "Fuji" to "Kodak" chemistry in a meaningful way.
Always stick with the mixing instructions for the specific product used. Don't assume it's "identical". It may be very close.
I can virtually guarantee you that Kodak and Fuji RA4 developer 'in the day' were not identical, although mixing ratios for certain products might have been the same also to make it easier for labs to switch over from one mfgr. to another (mostly from Kodak to Fuji, since the latter pressed the former out of the market in many areas quite effectively).


Adox here's a niche that can be filled
They know/knew about it but didn't choose that option when it was offered to them.
 

mshchem

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Drew doesn't in fact. He's mentioned it several times. I could, but I don't bother with the long rolls since I mostly/only print small and don't sell my prints, and therefore stick with DPII.


That's fine. You can wash at virtually any temperature you want, but I wouldn't go below room temperature. The cooler the wash, the longer it needs to be. You can always compare a well-washed sample (unexposed) to the border of your washed prints. If the prints aren't fully washed, you'll notice the whites are ever so slightly warm in hue. You'll never notice it if you don't compare side by side; it's easily missed.


There's no such thing as "fuji chemistry". There are currently at least two manufacturers of FUJIFILM photo chemistry; one in Japan and one in Belgium. Both have fairly extensive product ranges and there can be (often are) different products for the same application (color paper, C41, E6) - and they generally have different dilutions etc. So there's no way you can compare "Fuji" to "Kodak" chemistry in a meaningful way.
Always stick with the mixing instructions for the specific product used. Don't assume it's "identical". It may be very close.
I can virtually guarantee you that Kodak and Fuji RA4 developer 'in the day' were not identical, although mixing ratios for certain products might have been the same also to make it easier for labs to switch over from one mfgr. to another (mostly from Kodak to Fuji, since the latter pressed the former out of the market in many areas quite effectively).



They know/knew about it but didn't choose that option when it was offered to them.

There's still Fujifilm chemistry made in the USA. And while not identical are interchangeable. If you're trying to sell a big outfit chemistry you can't ask them to dump 100's of gallons of tanks of Kodak. The chemistry I have is maybe a year old.

20251216_143623.jpg


OG TRAY SIPHON MADE FOR KODAK.
 

mshchem

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I haven't bought any color chemistry in the last 18 months. The stuff last received from Unique Photo was Fujifilm stuff made in Illinois by FujiHuht. Not sure if the global product move has changed this. So I will say sure it's coming from Belgium.
 

mshchem

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I just tried ordering some Fuji universal fixer from Unique 100 liters is 97 usd, then add 190 usd shipping 🤣

There's a sea change here. Don't expect to be able to buy small quantities of the "real stuff" it's going to be in industrial sizes or kits. Looks like PSI is the best solution here in the usa.

I need to quit messing with this stuff but it keeps pulling me back.
 
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arespencer

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I just tried ordering some Fuji universal fixer from Unique 100 liters is 97 usd, then add 190 usd shipping 🤣

There's a sea change here. Don't expect to be able to buy small quantities of the "real stuff" it's going to be in industrial sizes or kits. Looks like PSI is the best solution here in the usa.

I need to quit messing with this stuff but it keeps pulling me back.

How big do you think industrial quantities is? The 40L sizes that currently being offered by Kodak seems perfect for me. Hopefully those stick around. If they do larger I’ll probably have to find people to go in on an order together
 
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