Gl690 No sharp images.
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OP
OP
Ok ill bring it to technician then xD
OP
OP
Rotterdam here xD ille take the camera to delfshaven camera shop in delft i guess.
OP
OP
Ok maybe 1 last thing.. last roll fp4 had film uneven spacing, also when i load the film i stop myself at frame 1.. then when i want to take a picture most of time it doesnt allow me to.. then i advance the film a tiny bit more and i can take the picture. Also i had trouble with blank photo sometimes but that could be changing the lens to 180mm without cocking it.
On youtube i see all people advance the lever as much as possible can to frame 1 and then the camera stops by it self at frame 1.
On youtube i see all people advance the lever as much as possible can to frame 1 and then the camera stops by it self at frame 1.
From my experience with the Fuji 670/80/90 series...I've had a few! Uneven spacing results when you don't keep tension on the roll of film as you advance during loading. If the roll of film goes slack there will be some uneven spacing.
OP
OP
So maybe thats my problem.. loose film out of focus image?
i asked ai:
No, a loose 120 film roll in your Fujica GL690 typically wouldn't cause out-of-focus images directly. However, there are a couple of indirect ways it might contribute to focus issues:
- Film Positioning: If the film is too loose, it may not be positioned correctly within the camera, which could slightly affect how the film sits against the pressure plate. If the film is not sitting flat against the pressure plate, it might cause uneven focus across the image, especially at the edges.
- Light Leaks or Distortion: While this won't directly affect focus, if the film is loaded loosely and doesn't advance correctly, it might lead to light leaks or warping, which can distort the image and make it appear out of focus, even if the actual focus was fine when the shot was taken.
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That should have no relation to film flatness...nor to rangefinder adjustment.... just to uneven spacing.
Did you try to put the camera on a tripod to see if your shaky hands are to blame?
OP
OP
Don't ask AI about anything technical, especially not something like this.
The problem is that multiple elements of your imaging chain are uncontrolled, so varying this and that is just chasing your tail and finding unlikely things to blame (loose film, skylight filter, etc).
You need to take steps to isolate the parts of the chain and systematically test them so that you can rule causes out and improve each part. One step is to take the camera to someone familiar with them to look for problems, but you can also do tests yourself. For example:
- focus rf on an object at infinity and see if the lens focus scale agrees. Same for an object at say 2 or 3 meters.
- use the improvised ground glass/screen (it MUST be flat and translucent, not transparent) at the film rails on objects at infinity and 2 or 3 meters, and test whether that agrees with the lens focus scale and RF. I am emphasizing that the focusing aid must be translucent, because you got inconsistent results before and it could be due to focusing "through" the screen onto the aerial image.
- Test on film. Use a tripod or rest the camera on something to eliminate motion blur. Focus on something like a fence or wall running diagonally away from you, so there is a range of distances. Focus on an obvious reference point you'll remember, like a sign or fence post. Take exposures at a range of apertures, like wide open to 2-3 stops down.
- Examine the negatives with a magnifier, not a scanner. You may be able to use a phone camera in ultra-macro mode. You need to see film grain; if you can't see film grain you can't make a critical evaluation of the image. Look to see if the image was sharp where you focused, or if it is sharper forward or back of the reference point. Look to see if the stopped-down exposures have a wider range of acceptable sharpness as expected.
- The scanner has to be eliminated from the chain because it introduces a whole set of problems that have nothing to do with the camera, but you can do a separate set of tests to get the scanner working correctly.
The problem is that multiple elements of your imaging chain are uncontrolled, so varying this and that is just chasing your tail and finding unlikely things to blame (loose film, skylight filter, etc).
You need to take steps to isolate the parts of the chain and systematically test them so that you can rule causes out and improve each part. One step is to take the camera to someone familiar with them to look for problems, but you can also do tests yourself. For example:
- focus rf on an object at infinity and see if the lens focus scale agrees. Same for an object at say 2 or 3 meters.
- use the improvised ground glass/screen (it MUST be flat and translucent, not transparent) at the film rails on objects at infinity and 2 or 3 meters, and test whether that agrees with the lens focus scale and RF. I am emphasizing that the focusing aid must be translucent, because you got inconsistent results before and it could be due to focusing "through" the screen onto the aerial image.
- Test on film. Use a tripod or rest the camera on something to eliminate motion blur. Focus on something like a fence or wall running diagonally away from you, so there is a range of distances. Focus on an obvious reference point you'll remember, like a sign or fence post. Take exposures at a range of apertures, like wide open to 2-3 stops down.
- Examine the negatives with a magnifier, not a scanner. You may be able to use a phone camera in ultra-macro mode. You need to see film grain; if you can't see film grain you can't make a critical evaluation of the image. Look to see if the image was sharp where you focused, or if it is sharper forward or back of the reference point. Look to see if the stopped-down exposures have a wider range of acceptable sharpness as expected.
- The scanner has to be eliminated from the chain because it introduces a whole set of problems that have nothing to do with the camera, but you can do a separate set of tests to get the scanner working correctly.
If you bought it recently and within return period, wouldn't it be easier just to return it?
Just to establish a baseline, here's a very quick 100% crop from a 1000ppi scan of a GW690 neg ('well used' would describe the 690 in question). If the forum software doesn't do anything too weird to the file, it should show what a decent scan (old high end CCD, but competent camera scans should get more than close) without any added sharpening should look like in terms of granularity, sharpness representation etc.
Film was Kentmere 400 pushed a bit in Ilfosol 3.
Winding problems/ dropping frames in a 690 are usually an indicator that it desperately needs a service. They were often used pretty hard.
Film was Kentmere 400 pushed a bit in Ilfosol 3.
Winding problems/ dropping frames in a 690 are usually an indicator that it desperately needs a service. They were often used pretty hard.
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Did you try this................without looking through the viewfinder window rack the lens to INF, the furthest focusing. Now look through the viewfinder and see if the range finder patch is inline and focused correctly on a far subject. Also, have you taken a photo of a far distant subject with the lens set to INF? If your photo is sharp (subject sharp) at a far distance with the lens set at INF and not sharp when you focus properly at a subject, say5 to 10 foot away, the your rangefinder needs to be adjusted, which is not a major job.
Welcome to Photrio!
Have the camera checked out at a camera store if there is still one near you.
I think the Ai reply was very good.
If you aren't loading the film correctly it can lead to numerous problems. For any 120 camera keep your finger on the take-up roll until the arrows line up with the marks then close the back. This step is mentioned in your camera's manual. If you don't the film leader can be wound onto the take-up roll loose, and you get your uneven frame spacing. But it can also become a spring, and some films are more 'springy' than others. If there is a lag between exposures the springy film can then unwind and press outward against the pressure plate causing it not to be flat come the next exposure. A loosely wound roll of film is often called a 'fat roll', and because it isn't tightly wound when you unload it it can cause light leaks. And always wind to frame 1 and don't second guess the process by stopping winding before the camera has cocked the shutter.
I think there may be some bad technique with the use of the camera or in scanning or both but just try to solve one thing at a time. The first step would be to get yourself a manual for the camera and understand it, here
https://butkus.org/chinon/fujica/fujica_gl690_gm670/fujica_gl690_gm670.htm
the manuals are free but a donation is polite.
It's not.
Loose film will not affect the spring load of the pressure plate. It may affect things like frame spacing.
And fog will not show up as lack of sharpness.
It's bogus, as AI dribble often is.
After you are satisfied with the suggested remedies and still have the problem you may consider that the camera lens is the issue. Years ago a photographer friend of mine had me photograph him and his wife with one of his cameras. After he developed the film he told me I had not focused any of the frames. The camera was mounted on a tripod and I said I was careful to focus on their eyes and most were at f8 or f11. He then remembered that the last time he used that lens he had dropped it but it didn’t appear to have any damage. He sent the equipment in for repair and sure enough the lens was in need of repair. It’s possible the previous owner did not reveal something like that.
Damaged lens is a good possibility, along with about 5 to 10 other possibilities. The op just has to work on one at a time until he hits BINGO! I'm still curious as to whether his infinity (lens set at infinity) are in focus. If his pictures, with the lens set at infinity are sharp and the ones focused at any closer distance aren't, then it's a rangefinder and lens sync problem.
OP
OP
Infinity and close focus are ok... i shot a new roll of film this time i loaded it correctly and winded to frame 1. Iam going to let the negative scanned to see the issue.
Then everything in-between will be OK, too. Assuming that you can definitively state at this junction that infinity and close focus really are OK. Only you are in a position to verify this.
I don't think the Ai mentioned 'fog'?
My guess is you've never used a Holga in which everything can go wrong with a film and often does no matter how much care is taken, and I think the Ai covered at least some of it regarding having a fat roll. Medium format cameras can be very cranky at the best of times especially the older ones, but the only way to stop the more sophisticated ones from being just as cranky is to use them according to the instructions, and just as the Ai says the cameras manual also explains how to avoid a fat roll and why you don't want one. Now if drivel or dribble advice is bad, where does that put 'throwing the baby out with the bathwater' (which is an analogy of course)?
It linked light leaks to focus problems. How would that work? The only logical mediating variable would be fog.
I admit - and for the record, I have nothing against Holgaoinists (?) I just don't have that experience. Even so, I don't see how in the camera OP uses, loosely rolled film or a light leak would result in apparent focus issues, especially because no other problems are reported. It's just a very odd line of reasoning and in that sense it's just consistent with what AI does: collect data based on statistical likelihood of co-occurrence. I contend that this is only marginal helpful in solving problems and generally far inferior to old-fashioned reasoning and elimination.
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