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Film Ferrania p30

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There have been reports I have seen of reduced red sensitivity, this is the sign for HoneServe a call centre in Preston UK, the house is in red, makes a change from a pillar box test.
Pyrocat HD as before.
 
Thanks for posting, and welcome to APUG! I wish my Italian was as good as your English, but very nice blog, and very nice results with the P30. My Italian is good enough I think I understand the high points, just need to re-read it slowly enough with a translator to understand the finer points. Nice job, thank you!
 
gioffry said:
On my blog, I've collected a series of tests.
Click to expand...

Quick translation of parts of his post:
I start from the sensitometric analysis made by Diego from which you can clearly see that P30 has an effective sensibility from ISO 12 to 32*, a long way from the ISO 80 declared by the manufacturer.

Judging from the curves, the best compromise of gamma/contrast, for my taste, is obtained exposing at ISO 50 and this is what i've done.(...)

The best way (for my taste) for developing in D76 a P30 exposed at ISO 50, is treating it at 1+1 dilution for 13 minutes in continuous rotations (or 16 minutes if using intermittent agitation). Plus 1 minute of stop bath, 4 minutes of rapid fixing and washing the Ilford way.

(...)
It is not a film that you can develop in 3 minutes (...) if you use a strong (energetic) developer, you should dilute it in such a way to translate the development times to 8-9 minutes (minimum for this film, imo), or substitute such developer with a solvent developer. In short, the P30 suits a developer that develops deeply, not one that only develops in the surface. (...)

XTOL and HC110 do not go along well. Rodinal goes well only when used very diluted and in stand development. (...)

The film is weakly sensitive to the red; it resembles a quasi-orthocromatic film. (...) this defect is accentuated if the film is developed with a surface developer. (...)

In my opinion, but, note that this defect could be also a characteristic: Why would you buy a film like the P30 if it was a generic film? I buy other similar films if they cost half as much! Thus, from my point of view it is important that if a film positionates itself within the high-tier market, it should have its own characteristics. And "similar to orthochrome" is the main characteristic of the P30.

(...) tonal width is an excellent characteristic of P30 if exposed at ISO 50. (...) excellent acutance, despite using a solvent developer. Grain: I swear i tried hard to find it with a (grain) focuser, i almost couldn't bring it to focus under the enlarger.
Click to expand...

* Comment by me (flavio): I would like to see which kind of light was used for the supplied test that concludes that real ISO is 32. Due to the almost-orthochromatic sensitivity, if this test was done with tungsten light, of course the speed would suffer. I wouldn't be surprised if, on 'real life' under sunlight, the real speed was higher.

Still, in any case, an E.I. 50 film of 'excellent acutance' and superfine grain, and wide tonality, is something quite welcome for my taste!
 
Last edited:
flavio81 said:
I would like to see which kind of light was used for the supplied test that concludes that real ISO is 32. Due to the almost-orthochromatic sensitivity, if this test was done with tungsten light, of course the speed would suffer. I wouldn't be surprised if, on 'real life' under sunlight, the real speed was higher.
Still, in any case, an E.I. 50 film of 'excellent acutance' and superfine grain, and wide tonality, is something quite welcome for my taste!
Click to expand...

I don't know what light was used for sensitometric tests, but we can directly ask who did the test: @chromemax
From my first tests, I can say that @50iso it is perfectly usable and it is a very good orthochromatic cinefilm
 
Andrew O'Neill said:
So, P30 is not panchromatic?
Click to expand...

From the very first images posted on P30 on the ferrania website, I did note that the film looked like more sensitive to blue to other films.

I don't think we can say the film is "orthochromatic". We can perhaps say that it has reduced sensitivity to red. In the same way that, on the other opposite example, Fomapan 100 & 400 have enhanced red sensitivity... For labeling it "orthochromatic", it would have to have zero sensitivity to red.

Mind you, these are still "alpha", test versions of the film; they could perhaps change/add sensitizers if they wanted to.

I think it looks nice as it is.
 
For the times used for the Jobo rotary processor be similar to a rondinax or should I use the -15% time from a spiral tank? Thanks, @gioffry for your blog, this is what I was looking for before I develop my second roll.
 
gioffry said:
For my experience, to develop P30 in spiral tank you must increase the time: +20/25%



Well done
Click to expand...

Thank you. I plan to use a Rondinax 35u for my 2nd roll, with D76.
 
Larry Cloetta said:
Thanks for posting, and welcome to APUG! I wish my Italian was as good as your English, but very nice blog, and very nice results with the P30. My Italian is good enough I think I understand the high points, just need to re-read it slowly enough with a translator to understand the finer points. Nice job, thank you!
Click to expand...
Would you help me to translate this blog-post in English? :redface:
In this way, all could understand it. :smile:
Thank you :whistling:
 
gioffry said:
Would you help me to translate this blog-post in English? :redface:
In this way, all could understand it. :smile:
Thank you :whistling:
Click to expand...

I already translated some of your blog post, see:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
Here's a few from my first roll of P30. Taken with a Nikon F (FTn) and 50/1.4 pre-AI and 35/2 AI lenses. These are scans of the negs, a close approximation of my straight prints at grade #2
Film rated at 80 ISO and developed in D76 full-strength for 9 mins, with 1 inversion per min.
I noticed a different "look" to the negs as soon as I hung them to dry, at least distinctive from what I usually see with Tri-X or HP5. Contact sheets showed relatively high contrast, but didn't necessarily seem to be under or over-exposed.

Personally, I like the look of this film. It seems really punchy, but in wet printing, I have been able to pull detail out of the highlights and hold back the shadows without them getting muddy. I'll try D-76 1:1 for the roll I just finished, then try shooting @ ISO 50 for the next one, as some here have recommended.

P30_3_gallery.jpg



P30_1_gallery.jpg



P30_2_gallery.jpg
 
jimjm said:
Here's a few from my first roll of P30. Taken with a Nikon F (FTn) and 50/1.4 pre-AI and 35/2 AI lenses. These are scans of the negs, a close approximation of my straight prints at grade #2
Film rated at 80 ISO and developed in D76 full-strength for 9 mins, with 1 inversion per min.
I noticed a different "look" to the negs as soon as I hung them to dry, at least distinctive from what I usually see with Tri-X or HP5. Contact sheets showed relatively high contrast, but didn't necessarily seem to be under or over-exposed.

Personally, I like the look of this film. It seems really punchy, but in wet printing, I have been able to pull detail out of the highlights and hold back the shadows without them getting muddy. I'll try D-76 1:1 for the roll I just finished, then try shooting @ ISO 50 for the next one, as some here have recommended.
Click to expand...

Nice work, thanks for posting.
 
Chris Livsey said:
Nice work, thanks for posting.
Click to expand...
Indeed, seconded.

I'm really liking the look of this film; I'm definitely going to be in the queue when it goes on "general release", as it were.
 
jimjm said:
Here's a few from my first roll of P30. Taken with a Nikon F (FTn) and 50/1.4 pre-AI and 35/2 AI lenses. These are scans of the negs, a close approximation of my straight prints at grade #2
Film rated at 80 ISO and developed in D76 full-strength for 9 mins, with 1 inversion per min.
I noticed a different "look" to the negs as soon as I hung them to dry, at least distinctive from what I usually see with Tri-X or HP5. Contact sheets showed relatively high contrast, but didn't necessarily seem to be under or over-exposed.

Personally, I like the look of this film. It seems really punchy, but in wet printing, I have been able to pull detail out of the highlights and hold back the shadows without them getting muddy. I'll try D-76 1:1 for the roll I just finished, then try shooting @ ISO 50 for the next one, as some here have recommended.
Click to expand...

I really like the second one, so much texture there! Nice!
 
Oh, my God, so much talent shown on this thread!
 
34941856103_a87b6f3179_b.jpg


A frame from the latest roll shot on anLeica M2 with 35mm Biogon ZM with sunny sixteen exposure, my usual method, not as consistent across the roll certainly the P30 is less forgiving than mu usual stock but then I fine Neopan 100 similarly "picky", I know, use a meter :wink:
 
Got my rolls yesterday! and of course it's raining and dull today. More waiting.. arrgggh
 
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