Alan Klein
Member
Another thing about exposure "from the hip". How do you get consistent results?
Guys, I was saying that a good scanner will adjust properly to over and under exposures just as we would with printing. And, you can do more with software as well as with dodging and burning. Bottom line? You get good results with color negative film over a wide exposure range and you have little to no color shift.
PE
Well shooting from the hip does create negatives that create wild (ugly) contact sheets. The film's latitude though allows room for accurate tone placement through varied print exposure.Another thing about exposure "from the hip". How do you get consistent results?
Yor approach sounds a little bit like that of my orthopedic surgeon; he screwed a plate in my arm to repair a fracture after I fell off a ladder. His advice: don't fall off a ladder.
Another thing about exposure "from the hip". How do you get consistent results?
Actually it's just a choice about how to do the work and the tools.Yor approach sounds a little bit like that of my orthopedic surgeon; he screwed a plate in my arm to repair a fracture after I fell off a ladder. His advice: don't fall off a ladder.
How about the worse option: Autoexposure in the camera where every exposure is "correct" yet the continual changes in exposure harm "continuity" and risk mistakes in shutter speed (aperture priority like the Pentax ES and OM-4 that I use). I am quite enjoying manual cameras these days and I tend to shoot in sets with all the same shutter speed and f/stop.
This weekend, after taking the test series, I metered a difficult scene. The band was playing their competition on a field half-covered by the shade of the bleachers in the setting sun. I explored the scene with spotmeter during the performance of the band before us... I could see that half my shots would be in that shade, and half would be in direct sun. I metered for the darkest shadow in the shade and placed it on Zone II. The whitest whites in sun would still fall within the latitude for overexposure... So instead of changing the f/stop back and forth, I set the camera once and paid attention to the kids.
Guys, I was saying that a good scanner will adjust properly to over and under exposures just as we would with printing. And, you can do more with software as well as with dodging and burning. Bottom line? You get good results with color negative film over a wide exposure range and you have little to no color shift.
PE
There are, however, several stops of GOOD latitude in color neg, on each side of normal. And, I have done it with people in it with a color chart included in the scene. So, I'm not giving you smoke and mirrors here. This IS a real test. And the prints were "locked balance and exposure time" with only f stop as the variable.
PE
It might be that the inter image effects are causing some problems here. It would require an extensive test to determine that though. I doubt if such was engineered into the film though.
What it would mean is that some colors are overcorrected and too bright.
PE
You can improve your odds of winning the lottery by properly exposing the negative in the first instance. Printing a minimum exposure for maximum black contact sheet will tell you which negatives will be easy to print and which will be more difficult. It will also tell you how accurate you metering, or your eye if you are not using a meter, actually is, and perhaps more importantly, how consistent your exposure is.My point is that expecting a negative to straight print properly without that first gimme adjustment is like expecting every lotto ticket to win.
What new process are you still shaking down? Exposure? Developing? Printing?If you're referring to the images of my kids I posted, those where with a new process I'm still shaking down.
What new process are you still shaking down? Exposure? Developing? Printing?
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