Cinestill DF96 monobath
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Leica M5, CV 35 1.4 v2, Kentmere 400, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
Leica M5, CV 35 1.4 v2, Kentmere 400, DF 96
Leica M5, CV 35 1.4 v2, Kentmere 400, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
I used a Leica SF24D flash for this dusk shot. I figured - dood w/ big dog on a unicycle. No issue there blasting my flash in his face!
;p
I used a Leica SF24D flash for this dusk shot. I figured - dood w/ big dog on a unicycle. No issue there blasting my flash in his face!
;p
Hasselblad H1, 80mm 2.8, Shanghai GPX100 220, DF96 Monobath
@Huss #626 is my fave!
Thank you!
Hasselblad H1, 80mm 2.8, Shanghai GPX100 220, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
Scrolling to this, I thought for just about a heartbeat that it was Seattle's Space Needle or an imitator of it...
Lifeguard training
Hasselblad H1, 80mm 2.8, Shanghai 200 100, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
Hasselblad H1, 80mm 2.8, Shanghai 200 100, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
H1, as above
After seeing posts about DF-96 then I give it a try, but I don't know what have I done wrong in the process. I know how to process B&W film with traditional developers like Kodak d76, xtol, and ilford id11. The temperature is fine here and should be with the
The first film I tried is Fomapan 100. After process the negatives are thin, almost every shoot turned into a grey tone. I believe it must have been overdeveloped.Then I tried with 2 Kentmere 400 and that was the worst : both are underdeveloped-like, thick and also pure black tone.
These two events sounds strange to me. Any possible causes?
The first film I tried is Fomapan 100. After process the negatives are thin, almost every shoot turned into a grey tone. I believe it must have been overdeveloped.Then I tried with 2 Kentmere 400 and that was the worst : both are underdeveloped-like, thick and also pure black tone.
These two events sounds strange to me. Any possible causes?
If you followed the package directions for temperature and agitation, you can't over- or under-develop. Thin negative would be underdeveloped, anyway, not overdeveloped.
Is your Kentmere black on the negative (= fogged), or black in the scan (= deeply underexposed/underdeveloped)?
Is your Kentmere black on the negative (= fogged), or black in the scan (= deeply underexposed/underdeveloped)?
The easy way to tell if there is something wrong with the developer is to look at the end of the film leader - where it is exposed to the world when you load your camera.
It should be solid black. If it is there is nothing wrong w the DF96. If it is solid black but your actual images are thin, then you have underexposed your images.
It should be solid black. If it is there is nothing wrong w the DF96. If it is solid black but your actual images are thin, then you have underexposed your images.
Also... when you first open the bottle - the very first time you use it - the liquid should be clear. If it is already yellow then the seal has failed and it has started to oxidize rendering it less effective.
The easiest way to make sure you always have 100% fresh DF96 is to order it in the powdered/crystalline form and mix it up w/ distilled water. Then store it in an air tight container.
The easiest way to make sure you always have 100% fresh DF96 is to order it in the powdered/crystalline form and mix it up w/ distilled water. Then store it in an air tight container.
Leica M5, CV 35 1.4 v2, Kentmere 400
My area is hot atm (outsie 26-27C)/ I managed to lower the temp for the DF96 to 24C and processed just like the instruction : Working at 24C with intermittent agitation (30 sec constant agitation, then 10 sec every min.) for 4 mins, Fomapan is grey, the negative seems having a light purple colour. While Kentmere is mostly black or dark, barely seen some details inside.
The film leader is in all black, and I tried with a roll or accidentally exposed film, all complete black just same as the leader. I believe the DF96 works . And I can see the liquid was clear at first. After these 2 attempts I can see the solution has start getting cloudy inside with sediments .
If the film leader is black then the DF96 is fine. It sounds like exposure error when you took the photos.
How about showing us a pic of your negatives?
Hasselblad H1, 80mm, Shanghai 220 100, DF96 Monobath
I don't think it's from my camera ( Canon A-1, first hand bought in late 1980s). It works well with my other B&W film that processed in traditional way (D76, Ilfosol 3 or else)
Here are some examples:
Kentmere 100 with Ilford Ilfosol 3 in 24 C/ 4 min process
Kentmere 400 with Df96 at 24 C
Fomapan 100 with DF-96
??For the Kentmere 400 to be dark even on the sprocket holes/film rebate, the entire film strip has been exposed to light.
For the Foma 100 - Was the film leader completely black? If so then it looks underexposed in camera.
For the Foma 100 - Was the film leader completely black? If so then it looks underexposed in camera.
Minolta XK, 58 1.2 @ 1.2, Fuji Acros II, Cinestill DF96 Monobath
All pics @ 1.2.
All pics @ 1.2.
Actually all are taken on the same day, using the same camera, same lens, processed with the same darkroom tools on the same day .
The reason why my K-100 looks better because after seeing the results of K-400 and Fomapan 100 I had decided to change the chemicals. The Fomapan 100 also have a black leader, although I cut it while filling.
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