Huss
Member
Hey Don! I used your step on leash idea today! Worked like a charm. Now why didn't I think of that? Off to develop another roll, back in 15 minutes...
We are a full service photographic resource here on PhotrioHey Don! I used your step on leash idea today! Worked like a charm. Now why didn't I think of that? Off to develop another roll, back in 15 minutes...
I used your step on leash idea today! Worked like a charm. Now why didn't I think of that?
You should post a warning for pictures like that middle one. That's weapons-grade cuteness...
What time/temp did you use? I'm thinking about trying DF96, but haven't had any luck finding specific instructions for Acros. Most of my B&W film stock is Acros, so I want to get it right.
Thanks! I interpreted Acros not being on the DF96 list of films to imply it wasn't compatible for some reason.Unless Acros is an exception, it's going to be 6 minutes at 75F with continuous agitation, or whatever the instruction sheet has for push or pull or higher temp to use intermittent agitation -- that allows for doubling the time for a putative tabular grain film to fully fix.
I did 8 mins at 75 for Acros
Extra time will do no harm at all. I also forgot to mention, don't forget to add time as the solution ages -- thirty seconds per roll previously processed, as I recall.
Also, from my own experience: if you open the tank and the film is still milky, don't just pour the Df96 back in; it will develop some of the now-fogged unfixed halide before it can finish fixing and leave a sort of faint Sabbatier reversal (BTDT). Instead, either make a habit of leaving the film in the solution for the double time recommended for tabular grain, or keep regular rapid fixer mixed and ready, just in case (which, of course, defeats much of the advantage of using the monobath).
Cinestill recommends double the time for the Tmax/Delta type films. They don't mention Acros, but as that is similar tech that is what I used, and it comes out perfectly.
Gonna pretend it's like tmax lke Huss does.
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