Any cheap 110 cameras with sharp lenses? Other than Pentax Auto 110?

[ic-racer]

Not to get too far off of topic but I've found that the Pratika MTL3 runs 16mm just fine. It gives some very interesting results. I used it all summer with my lineup of screwmount lenses. 24mm will give you a really nice pano look.

So, it's not a 110 camera but it is cheap and takes 16mm film.

Very nice, thanks for sharing.

 

[ic-racer]

I wonder if one could also use expired 35mm film like 120 backing paper to run the 16mm film through a 35mm camera.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Sounds like you’ve researched it pretty well. I saw the YouTube video where a guy cobbles together a harness using the case of an old battery or that people refill the old battery case with small cells. Just a quick search of ebay shows that it’s not too hard to find a camera with a battery still in it if that’s the route someone wanted to go (but maybe increase the chance that the camera is damaged from a battery leak). I like your solution better. I wondered if 2 aaa or a 123A battery would fit, then some combination of metal strip, hot glue and tape would complete a battery pack that fit without rattling around and made proper battery contact.

I started by going over the battery dimension chart on Wikipedia. Looking at that a little harder suggests that if I can get a K shell or dead K batttery, I might be able to hollow out the interior and fit a pair of N cells, end to end as if in a small flashlight, and still close the shell. Spring brass terminals inside could be connect to the positive end plate and negative side terminal to make a stock-fit battery that's easy to reload and uses batteries that are still easy to get. Alternatively, I might have to see if Thingiverse has a K shell file, and if so find a service to print me one.

 

[Donald Qualls]

None of the manual Nikon, Pentax, Canon and Minolta cameras I have work so far with 16mm film. Argus C3 does though. I have not tried Olympus as of yet.

Whether this works will most likely depend on whether the film advance drives the takeup spool and lets the film drive the sprocket, or (like a Contax II or III, or Kiev 4) the advance drives both. The advance stop and counter are always operated from the sprocket (up until an IR LED and detector counted sprockets in the last decade of film camera development); if the only driver for the sprocket is the film, you won't get anywhere running 16mm film through a 35mm camera.

One could, as suggested, use a 35mm strip as backing, but that'll make the combination too thick, leading to scratching (pressure plate pushing the film against the gate) or other problems (not least, takeup diameter build-up that may lead to conflict between the spool drive and sprocket). I don't really see the advantage of running 16mm film through a 35mm camera anyway...

 

[Cholentpot]

I wonder if one could also use expired 35mm film like 120 backing paper to run the 16mm film through a 35mm camera.

I've tired it, not worth the effort. Camera doesn't like it.

Whether this works will most likely depend on whether the film advance drives the takeup spool and lets the film drive the sprocket, or (like a Contax II or III, or Kiev 4) the advance drives both. The advance stop and counter are always operated from the sprocket (up until an IR LED and detector counted sprockets in the last decade of film camera development); if the only driver for the sprocket is the film, you won't get anywhere running 16mm film through a 35mm camera.

One could, as suggested, use a 35mm strip as backing, but that'll make the combination too thick, leading to scratching (pressure plate pushing the film against the gate) or other problems (not least, takeup diameter build-up that may lead to conflict between the spool drive and sprocket). I don't really see the advantage of running 16mm film through a 35mm camera anyway...

Yes, for the most part most cameras won't let the film advance unless the sprocket it engaged.

The reason for doing it? Why not? I get some nice panoramic looks and it's fun.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Well, okay, @Cholentpot , "because I like it" is a perfectly sensible reason to try alternative stuff. Like loading 35mm film in a 6x7 or 6x9 camera, only that's easier to develop. If I get a 16mm bulk roll to feed the Pocket Instamatic 60 I just bought (for ten bucks plus shipping), I may try rolling some into a 35mm cassette and running it through one of my Kiev 4 cameras. They drive the sprockets from the advance gears, as well as the spool.

 

[ciniframe]

For starting off in the wrong forum this thread has been great, with lots of good information.
If the OP is still with this fast crowd then I have one more recommendation for a cheap 110 camera with very good lenses.
It is the Kodak Tele Ektra 2. (Not Tele Ektra 1) This camera has two 3 element lenses, a 22mm and 44mm, both f5.6, with focusing by scale, which are visible through the viewfinder and on top of the camera.
When Kodak first shipped this camera I bought one to check it out. Very impressive lenses. The limit on resolution was the film grain, not the lenses. They are plentiful on that auction site and cheap.

 

[Craig75]

Not to get too far off of topic but I've found that the Pratika MTL3 runs 16mm just fine. It gives some very interesting results. I used it all summer with my lineup of screwmount lenses. 24mm will give you a really nice pano look.

So, it's not a 110 camera but it is cheap and takes 16mm film.

Nice idea and its come out a treat.
How do you load it? Do you put spacers in a reloadable 35mm cartridge and drop the film in ?

 

[Craig75]

I wonder if one could also use expired 35mm film like 120 backing paper to run the 16mm film through a 35mm camera.

Probably just less hassle to shoot 35mm film with a wide lens and compose shot in centre of frame then run the roll through a film slitter afterwards or just cut out composition with scissors and put it in 16mm enlarger.

Either that or thats the lazy chumps way to do it

 

[Cholentpot]

Well, okay, @Cholentpot , "because I like it" is a perfectly sensible reason to try alternative stuff. Like loading 35mm film in a 6x7 or 6x9 camera, only that's easier to develop. If I get a 16mm bulk roll to feed the Pocket Instamatic 60 I just bought (for ten bucks plus shipping), I may try rolling some into a 35mm cassette and running it through one of my Kiev 4 cameras. They drive the sprockets from the advance gears, as well as the spool.

Throw a 24mm lens on it and you have a very interesting look. The Instamatic is of the best 110 cameras I've used. You'll need to double pump the advance if reloading on your own though.

Nice idea and its come out a treat.
How do you load it? Do you put spacers in a reloadable 35mm cartridge and drop the film in ?

Standard cart reused. Cut a tongue out of the leftover and taped a strip of 16mm to it. Put some tape on either side of the tongue and reload in the dark.

This is microfilm shot at ISO50. I scratched it along the way but it doesn't really bother me all that much.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Makes me think of ADOX CMS20 -- which was rumored to be microfilm stock, in part because they recommended a special developer. I processed mine in the same developer I used for Copex Rapid (a Caffenol variant) and it came out really well.

 

[Cholentpot]

Makes me think of ADOX CMS20 -- which was rumored to be microfilm stock, in part because they recommended a special developer. I processed mine in the same developer I used for Copex Rapid (a Caffenol variant) and it came out really well.

Correction. I shot it at ISO25. I developed in Rodinal 1:175 for two hours. It's good stuff, sharp and no grain. It is delicate though.

 

[Huss]

Thanks for that answer Donald. Very helpful.
I have some of the Fukkatsu too that I haven’t used. So Recently expired when I bought it that I didn’t think it would be a problem. Disappointing to hear that you had poor results.

Just developed my film. This cartridge of Fukkatsu was a-ok! So I'm thinking/hoping the previous bad experience was a dev error.

Rollei A110, Fukkatsu 400

 

[Cholentpot]

Just developed my film. This cartridge of Fukkatsu was a-ok! So I'm thinking/hoping the previous bad experience was a dev error.

Rollei A110, Fukkatsu 400

Very nice!

 

[Huss]

Thanks!

Rollei A110, Fukkatsu 400

 

[swchris]

I have two Rollei A110s. Ridiculously well made over built cameras. Superb lens with zone focus, AE exposure.

They feel very solid and well made.

But, a few months ago, mine dropped onto the floor (and this was not a stone floor, is was laminate), and since then the shutter is broken. After taking a picture it doesn't close completely anymore, leaving a very small hole open at one side.
Could bite myself into my ***. It was such a nice camera. I don't know if there is anybody around who could repair it. :-(

 

[Huss]

They feel very solid and well made.

But, a few months ago, mine dropped onto the floor (and this was not a stone floor, is was laminate), and since then the shutter is broken. After taking a picture it doesn't close completely anymore, leaving a very small hole open at one side.
Could bite myself into my ***. It was such a nice camera. I don't know if there is anybody around who could repair it. :-(

That's too bad. I have two, one in perfect condition, and the one I used in the pics above has a dent/gash on one corner where the previous owner dropped it onto concrete! Still works perfectly.
It would be cheaper to buy another one than get it serviced. But it is nice to fix things.

 

[Craig75]

@Huss theyve come out really nice. Very sharp and lively.

 

[ProgramPlus]

Really nice pics on the Fukkatsu 400!

I’ve learned something new. If you “watch” items on EBay which are copious and relatively undesirable, the sellers will often offer you a lower price. Got an offer I couldn’t resist on a Minolta 16 QT that looks to be in great shape but again, untested. So it’ll get tested along with the Minolta 16 Ps which I also got at a little discount but haven’t received yet. Am watching some Kodak Instamatic 60s and have received good offers but the battery issue has me hesitant and am hoping GAS will pass before I am forced to gamble $20 on a 40 year old camera.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Apparently, someone on the Submini-L mailing list has 3D printed a new K battery replacement (a shell to install loose cells into). They're working on one that takes a 3.7V rechargeable lithium battery, as well. If you have a 3D printer, or some familiarity with getting things printed at an agency, might we worth digging in Thingiverse for these.

 

[Huss]

Really nice pics on the Fukkatsu 400!

I’ve learned something new. If you “watch” items on EBay which are copious and relatively undesirable, the sellers will often offer you a lower price. Got an offer I couldn’t resist on a Minolta 16 QT that looks to be in great shape but again, untested. So it’ll get tested along with the Minolta 16 Ps which I also got at a little discount but haven’t received yet. Am watching some Kodak Instamatic 60s and have received good offers but the battery issue has me hesitant and am hoping GAS will pass before I am forced to gamble $20 on a 40 year old camera.

Thanks! And yes about watching stuff. I was watching a 3D printed grip for a Pentax LX, when the seller then offered it to me at half price.

 

[Huss]

@Huss theyve come out really nice. Very sharp and lively.

Thanks! This was my second cartridge from the batch, and the first one was terrible so I have to think the shop messed up the developing.
Sigh of relief as I have a bunch left!

 

[Donald Qualls]

hoping GAS will pass before I am forced to gamble $20 on a 40 year old camera.

They're closer to 50 years old -- apparently they came out in 1972, same year as the SX-70. I paid $10 for the one I have coming; likely that low due to the battery issue killing demand. I'll find a way to power it -- it's not rocket science! -- or I'll troll around for another one (I'm committed now, four Lomography films on the way as well).

 

[Craig75]

Thanks! This was my second cartridge from the batch, and the first one was terrible so I have to think the shop messed up the developing.
Sigh of relief as I have a bunch left!

Sounds like you need to set yourself up with an "in house" 110 lab....

 

[Donald Qualls]

Apparently, the Yankee Master II is still manufactured -- it adjusts to 16mm (as well as 35mm, 127, and 120). Rotary agitation only, but I've found recently that this works great with (at least Flexicolor) C-41, implying it's probably very good for B&W as well. Cheap, too, and only wants 5 ounces (about 150 ml) to cover 16mm; I may have to get one.