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Looking forward to it.
Agfa Copex Rapid advice please
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Looking forward to it.
OP
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Shot one more roll today at ISO80 and developed in D96. 6 minutes constant agitation in a Lab-Box.
Very simple and I can live with the results.
Very simple and I can live with the results.
Are you kidding? These are amazing! I am glad you opted for D96 and it worked out so well.
OP
OP
Thanks. I like D96 more and more as I keep using it on whatever I have laying around the house
Thanks. I like D96 more and more as I keep using it on whatever I have laying around the house
Yeah, I like it too. I ended up using it as my "go to" developer for the Ferrania P30. Having already committed to the Adox Adotech CMS IV, that's what I am going to do, but perhaps you can post your images to illustrate the use of D96? I am really impressed with the tonality you got out of this combo. And you did it without coffee
.
OP
OP
Yeah, I like it too. I ended up using it as my "go to" developer for the Ferrania P30. Having already committed to the Adox Adotech CMS IV, that's what I am going to do, but perhaps you can post your images to illustrate the use of D96? I am really impressed with the tonality you got out of this combo. And you did it without coffee
Where would you like images posted besides in this thread?
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Here is a curve for copex rapid derived from the work of a poster on youtube:
www.photrio.com
Developer for Aviphot Pan 200
The guy who posts on Youtube as "the naked photographer" presented D-log E curves for Rollei Superpan 200, Rollei RPX 25 and Agfa Copex rapid [among others he is in process of presenting]. If the liberty is taken of assuming these are Aviphot 200, Aviphot 80 and Agfa Copex rapid and they are...
www.photrio.com
YouTube's "The Naked Photographer" is Greg Davis (used to be a member here, but doesn't come up when I tried to ping him in this reply just now).
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Here is his result for Copex Rapid vs Tri-X 400 [about 3min 30s]
He deleted his account and all his previous content here. The pinned thread, I think the one on washing and residual fixer, went away with his account.
That's a shame. He is very generous with his knowledge, and his show is entertaining.
Thanks. I like D96 more and more as I keep using it on whatever I have laying around the house
Auer,
I think you had better keep messing with D96. From the looks of those last posted pictures, I can't see you improving on those. Very, very nice indeed. Are you using the D96 full strength or 1+1? Also, and this question is to anyone here, is this the same formula as Kodaks D96?
Yes he is: his channel is one of the best film photography sources right now.
OP
OP
Thanks. Cinestill's D96 is affordable, simple and fast. I also use their F96 fixer, have for years. Very potent and long lasting.
I'm using full strength D96 and pour it back in after use, so add 20 seconds of dev time per batch.
Cinestill has a small chart here for some films: https://cinestillfilm.com/pages/cinestill-d96-dev-chart?_pos=3&_sid=1cc53c167&_ss=r
So far I only used this in the Lab-Box as its convenient for continuous agitation.
Might try the Jobo tanks later, but the way this is going I don't really need to dig those out yet.
No Idea how the formula compares to original Kodak D96.
The whole purpose of using D96 in a lab-Box was to get a simple and not too time consuming way of doing things, so far so good.
01-15-2023 (32) by Eric Auer, on Flickr
01-15-2023 (35) by Eric Auer, on Flickr
Thanks. Cinestill's D96 is affordable, simple and fast. I also use their F96 fixer, have for years. Very potent and long lasting.
I'm using full strength D96 and pour it back in after use, so add 20 seconds of dev time per batch.
Cinestill has a small chart here for some films: https://cinestillfilm.com/pages/cinestill-d96-dev-chart?_pos=3&_sid=1cc53c167&_ss=r
So far I only used this in the Lab-Box as its convenient for continuous agitation.
Might try the Jobo tanks later, but the way this is going I don't really need to dig those out yet.
No Idea how the formula compares to original Kodak D96.
The whole purpose of using D96 in a lab-Box was to get a simple and not too time consuming way of doing things, so far so good.
01-15-2023 (32) by Eric Auer, on Flickr
01-15-2023 (35) by Eric Auer, on Flickr
Auer,
Thanks, and what you are doing seems to work fine so far. I figured you were going full strength by your 6 min, developing time. I just went to Cinestill's site and read all I could on their D96, and I'm guessing it's more than likely the very same thing as Kodak D96. I'm going to mix up some D96 today just to try it on some Shanghai and Rollei Superpan 200 film to see what it does. I have three AGFA Rondinax 60 daylight tanks and will haul them down out of the attic for a try. I have never tried them in all the years I've owned them. They are the forerunners of your Lab-Box. You have definitely pinged my interest with the results you are showing.
Yep, since I have several rolls of Copex Rapid in 120, I need to mix up a bottle of D96 as well. Gotta check if I still have hydroquinone...
Interesting thread.
I have many 120 rolls of Copex Rapid stockpiled. Thus far I have only developed them in the recommended SPUR Dokuspeed SL-N. It would be nice to have a cheap, reliable alternative that comes close to its performance, as it's a very expensive developer: works out at about £7.50 a roll, which is a bitter pill to swallow! The results are hard to fault though:
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
I have many 120 rolls of Copex Rapid stockpiled. Thus far I have only developed them in the recommended SPUR Dokuspeed SL-N. It would be nice to have a cheap, reliable alternative that comes close to its performance, as it's a very expensive developer: works out at about £7.50 a roll, which is a bitter pill to swallow! The results are hard to fault though:
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
--- by atomstitcher, on Flickr
Interesting thread.
I have many 120 rolls of Copex Rapid stockpiled. Thus far I have only developed them in the recommended SPUR Dokuspeed SL-N. It would be nice to have a cheap, reliable alternative that comes close to its performance, as it's a very expensive developer: works out at about £7.50 a roll, which is a bitter pill to swallow! The results are hard to fault though:
These look great!
Just shot a roll of Copex Rapid in 120 and developed it in Caffenol CLCN. Just like the CMS 20 I developed in the same mix, the negatives came out alright but very thin. Anyone else have that experience? They scanned ok (though my fixer is clearly shot and I'm going to have to re-fix the roll) but it'd be nice to have a bit more to work with.
Very promising on the detail front, though. I can't say there's no grain, but there's certainly not much. Whether the detail advantage is big enough over, say, Delta 100 to merit shooting at half the speed is going to require further testing! Here's a little crop, 'scanned' with my NEX-7. It's a 6x7 with a resolution of around 9000px on the long edge, so about 3200dpi.
Very promising on the detail front, though. I can't say there's no grain, but there's certainly not much. Whether the detail advantage is big enough over, say, Delta 100 to merit shooting at half the speed is going to require further testing! Here's a little crop, 'scanned' with my NEX-7. It's a 6x7 with a resolution of around 9000px on the long edge, so about 3200dpi.
As you can see in the table of my post : https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/agfa-copex-rapid-advice-please.196303/post-2633147
The instant coffee weight is not the same, the timing is not the same and the agitation scheme is not the same.
Oh, yeah, I should have been clearer. I definitely followed the instructions here for each individual film: https://photochemical.wordpress.com...t-developer-for-adox-cms-20-agfa-copex-rapid/
Possible issues I can see:
1. I used Arm and Hammer washing soda, which isn't totally anhydrous. Perhaps it needs to be increased a bit.
2. I shaved a smidge (about a minute for the Copex) of time off because my water was at 21c. I wouldn't think such a small amount would make a difference, but you never know.
Other than that...maybe I used the wrong instant coffee (Folgers Classic Roast) or my ascorbic acid isn't as pure as it claims?
The difference is quite a bit and the resulting pH will be too low. You need a pH in the high 9s to fully activate the developing agents in caffenol (mostly various forms of catechol. Ascorbic acid is super-additive with these). There is a lot of ascorbic acid in caffenol, which is obviously an acid, so if you don’t get the right amount of sodium carbonate, you will definitely have a pH that is too low.
The usual correction is 7% per degree C.
Hmm...I just popped some into the oven for a couple of hours, and it wound up losing almost exactly 10% of its weight. I'll add 0.5g next time and see how that works!
Ok so I overdid it a bit there too. I'm going to try shooting half a roll today and make these adjustments.
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