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35mm Ektachrome 100 bulk availability

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The dye release into all processing baths and onto processing equipment described in the new datasheet of the 35 and 16mm cine versions, but not in the older datasheet of the still version.
Typ 135 sure coloured my processing baths so I wonder why Kodak sudenly talks about it. It could be that the cine version stains even more.
 
Well, I assume that at least all non-roll film versions, still or cine, are sourced/will be sourced from same master batch.
 
That is correct in respect of 35-mm. products. Super-8 and 16-mm. Ektachrome has a slightly thinner base, roll and sheet films have thicker substrates. So jumbos are coated for these various lines. Super-8 derives from 16 mm slits perforated on both sides, it exists as Double-Super 8 for a short period of time.
 
Not quite., classic type 120/220 had thinner base than type 135. But at least since the demise of the Agfa consumer department base material and thickness varies greatly at the consumer film range.
 
Charles may know whether this is possible.
Could it be that the reference to the pink stain from cine lengths of Ektachrome might be there to inform processors who are using machines that have previously been used for ECN-2.
 
That advice by B&H to have it run through a cine processor is triggered by a remark in the new datasheet of the 35 and 16mm cine versions of Ektachrome.
 
Threads merged, and some housekeeping edits.
 
US and Canadian customers can purchase 100D rolls directly from Eastman Kodak as well.
 
If the dye bugs you a presoak will get rid of most of it. 100°F water in your tank with a little agitation for 1 minute. It's startling to see how much dye comes out. Same is true with C-41.
It's a bit more annoying with C41 as I see in in my final wash sequence. It takes time to completely diffuse out of the emulsion.

I use Fuji chemistry for E6, by the final wash (without a presoak) most of the dye is gone. It definitely colors solutions but no problem. The fixer turns red from bleach carry over as well no big deal.
 
That advice by B&H to have it run through a cine processor is triggered by a remark in the new datasheet of the 35 and 16mm cine versions of Ektachrome.

The advice is from the Kodak Sell Sheet, not B&H. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Well, clearly if you've exposed even a significant fraction of a 400' camera roll, never mind 1000', you won't want to try to process it in your Paterson or Jobo. I think that "cine processor" guideline is due to the roll length, and nothing to do with the emulsion.
 
Oh brother, for the love of God.
Having a reel of this film is a beautiful and fun dream at the same time.
I wish I could have a reel.
I swear to you, I will organize a free workshop for all analog photographers in Egypt. And I will distribute small rolls to them, where each guy or girl will get 3 rolls, and each roll is only 12 shots.
And I will develop these rolls with three different processes, (AGFA AP41) and (ORWO C9165)n addition to (foma chrome),,, and a questioner will ask, why did you not choose the process (E6) and I will answer, because in Egypt we do not have Any source of the elements (citrazinic acid) and (phindion), these elements are not available at all in the life of this world, perhaps available when Christ returns to Egypt.
- I tried (AP41) and it was amazingly successful with Valvia and Ectachrome as well, but there are still some doubts in my heart about the intensity of the blue color which I see is somewhat excessive, so I want to try other operations and hold A comparison between all the operations and the selection of the most appropriate one.
My friend, it is all just the dreams of the naked, who dreams of the best suit with a bow.
 
I saw an example recently (on Reddit) of modern Ektachrome developed with 15 minutes in Rodinal 1:25 (at 38C) followed by standard C-41 process. The post only had photos of the film strip, not quality scans, but they looked fine at that scale and appeared correctly exposed at box speed.
 
Can anybody recommend a safe and reliable way to split a 400' or 1000' roll into 100' rolls?

Easy-peasy. I glued together several layers of cardboard, big enough to hold both rolls and put screws through it for the cores. Tape marks the edge of the 100ft roll to tell when to quit. I do it in a darkbag.

Roller.jpg
 
Nice. I could probably make a nicer one from a 1x6 melamine shelf board with dowels glued into holes. I should work on that.

Oh, note to self -- be sure I have four 100' cans and bags handy before starting this, so I can just do it all at once.
 
Nice. I could probably make a nicer one from a 1x6 melamine shelf board with dowels glued into holes. I should work on that.

Oh, note to self -- be sure I have four 100' cans and bags handy before starting this, so I can just do it all at once.

You are certainly free - nay, encouraged! - to improve all you want on this rather slipshod prototype, thrown together from bits and scraps found around the basement.
 
well, took a leap and ordered a 400 footer. should get it next week. hoping it was a good use of some of my tax return

john
 
Nice. I could probably make a nicer one from a 1x6 melamine shelf board with dowels glued into holes. I should work on that.

Oh, note to self -- be sure I have four 100' cans and bags handy before starting this, so I can just do it all at once.

If you’re going to rig something up anyway, I wonder if it’s worth figuring out how to just load cassettes directly from the 400 footer, and cut out the middleman (er, spool)
 
Just add a cut-open commercial bulk-loader or its front-end to a homemade, larger casing with an axle.
 
If you’re going to rig something up anyway, I wonder if it’s worth figuring out how to just load cassettes directly from the 400 footer, and cut out the middleman (er, spool)

Just add a cut-open commercial bulk-loader or its front-end to a homemade, larger casing with an axle.

I have files for a 3D printed bulk loader (Lloyd style), and I've wanted to remix it for a camera roll, but I don't have the ability to open the .stl file and edit the objects that created it (I think that information is lost in the export to .stl, since it's not needed for slicing). That leaves me trying to redraw the whole device, with a minimum 6 1/2 inch film chamber diameter to hold a 400 foot roll. Since I'm not a 3D CAD wizard, and the software I'm familiar with (FreeCAD) has some issues with complex objects, I've gotten nowhere so far. I'll probably need to learn a different package to accomplish this, and that's not happening at the moment.

Large scale grafting of parts is possible (JB Weld is opaque, in my experience) but testing for light tightness after the work is an issue, not to mention making it possible to open to insert a camera roll.

And given that camera rolls of color film run above $450, or about $650 for Ektachrome...
 
For those considering converting this film and using it in still cameras, I've received a response to a question I sent to someone I know who I would describe as a well informed and eminently reliable source.
"There should be no concerns in processing the 135 format E100 or the motion picture 5294 in a home tank, Jobo, Sidekick or external lab processor. They should process out the same or nearly identical to each other. The dye statement added to the 5294 Data Sheet is added more as information to (motion picture) labs that are used to ECN-2 or B&W chemistries and processors that there are different dyes and different reactions that have different colors that will come out when processing an E-6 product. Some of this is due to the anti-halation dyes used in the film which are very different than those used in B&W films where no rem-jet backing is employed."
 
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