110/16mm Camera Image Quality

[Huss]

These are so dang cool.

Thanks! All I'm doing is scanning them with a digicam, using a Lomo Digitiliza film holder, and converting with negativelabpro.com

 

[Huss]

Rollei A110, Superia 200

 

[Huss]

Rollie A110, Lomo Orca 100

 

[Cholentpot]

How are you getting all that much rebate with NLP?

 

[Huss]

How are you getting all that much rebate with NLP?

NLP doesn't control how much rebate is used. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the question?
I scan/photograph the film in the lomo digitliza holder. Then I can crop out what I don't want - for these I left the full width in showing all the rebate.
Then I convert whatever I have decided on with NLP.

The less rebate you use, the more 'accurate' the results are with NLP. But for me if the result looks terrible, I'll do it again with less/no rebate.
110 is for fun so I'm not too concerned about how accurate the colours are, especially seeing the film I'm shooting is now 21 years old!

 

[Huss]

Pepe swimming! His first time he's been in years. He just dove right in!

Rollei A110, Superia 200

 

[Cholentpot]

NLP doesn't control how much rebate is used. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding the question?
I scan/photograph the film in the lomo digitliza holder. Then I can crop out what I don't want - for these I left the full width in showing all the rebate.
Then I convert whatever I have decided on with NLP.

The less rebate you use, the more 'accurate' the results are with NLP. But for me if the result looks terrible, I'll do it again with less/no rebate.
110 is for fun so I'm not too concerned about how accurate the colours are, especially seeing the film I'm shooting is now 21 years old!

It allows you to set rebate percentage. I'm new to the program. I think you crop then invert and you can uncrop after the scan? Dunno. Looks good either way.

 

[Huss]

It allows you to set rebate percentage. I'm new to the program. I think you crop then invert and you can uncrop after the scan? Dunno. Looks good either way.

Huh. Never looked at that! I crop before I convert.

Hey, just attached the 18mm lens to the Pentax Auto110. First time using it with that lens. Will see how it goes.
At first glance it seems it will be tricky to focus accurately. There seems to be an awful lot of range that seems to be 'in focus', even when using the split image. The matt screen outside the split image is not much help.
Anyway, will just have to be patient with it!

I briefly played with the 50mm but did not take pics with it. It doesn't seem like it will be much fun to use because every tiny movement makes the image shake. Much more so than the equivalent lens on 35mm. I guess the tiny size amplifies everything.

Fun fact, since I received my Auto110, it has seen more use than my LX, K2, SuperA, MX and P30T combined!

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

There seems to be an awful lot of range that seems to be 'in focus', even when using the split image. The matt screen outside the split image is not much help.
Anyway, will just have to be patient with it!

I think I like the film format as much as the cameras; I'll probably wind some 16mm into 35mm cassette and shoot with a 5.6mm fisheye or cine lens on an adapted body.

Managed to expose a half-frame at the end of a minolta 16 cassette. Ow my nose.



Edit: Good meters with adjunct LR44 batteries in both the MG-S and QT

 

[Cholentpot]

I think I like the film format as much as the cameras; I'll probably wind some 16mm into 35mm cassette and shoot with a 5.6mm fisheye or cine lens on an adapted body.

Managed to expose a half-frame at the end of a minolta 16 cassette. Ow my nose.

View attachment 275561

Edit: Good meters with adjunct LR44 batteries in both the MG-S and QT

View attachment 275562

That's sharp on the flower.

As for rolling 16 through a 35, I did it quite a bit last summer and it really comes out nice. I used a 24mm on a M42 body. Many cameras won't work well. I found the Praktica MTL3 works with 16mm film.

 

[Huss]

Rollei A110, Fuji Superia 200

 

[Huss]

Pentax Auto110, 18mm 2.8, Fuji Superia 200

The 18mm lens is a cracker. Much sharper than the 24m.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Shot around this morning with the 25cm close-up attachment on the MG-S. Focus (and composition, due to blacked-out viewfinder) becomes even more of a crapshoot but with Vision3 50D in this format running about 4 cents a frame processed, one can afford to be a bit cavalier. Shutter priority @ 1/250s put the aperture between 5.6 & 8 for most shots in full sun. Fun fact, the 'default' MG-S silver snake chain is exactly 25cm long.



The close-up diopter attachments are indispensable pieces of kit for the Minolta 16 system imho. I'm going to do some tests later with some scale focus cameras (Demi S, M35, Retinette, Bolsey) and see if the Minolta diopters allow those cameras to achieve focus closer than the bog standard ~1m.

Edit: I did run some 16mm Double-X through my Demi S half-frame and got really good results with the familiar sprocket-exposed aesthetic you get from 35mm film adapted to a medium format camera. Like magic, the negatives turn out being just about the same size as the ones produced by the MG-S / QT. One quirk I found with the Demi is that it will allow you to actuate the advance lever even when the end of the film prevents rotation of the take-up spool; presumably due to no engagement w/ the 16mm sprockets.

 

[Cholentpot]

Minolta 16II with #0 filter. Kodak HQ Link

I get infinity focus now. Time to upgrade my filmstock.

 

[Huss]

Pentax Auto110, 18mm 2.8, Fuji Superia 200

 

[ciniframe]

Very good Cholentpot. I’ve never used microfilm in my 16mm cameras. What ISO are you using to meter and how do you process That film?

 

[Huss]

Pentax Auto110, 18mm 2.8, Fuji Superia 200

 

[Cholentpot]

Very good Cholentpot. I’ve never used microfilm in my 16mm cameras. What ISO are you using to meter and how do you process That film?

Thanks.

I develop stand in Rodinal 1:175 or 1:1200 for an hour and a half to two hours. I use a Yankee clipper. Shot at about ISO 25, there is not much leeway with this film greys are not really a thing. Black or white more or less.

Minolta 16II, HQLink Microfilm. Not my best photo but a little more range.

 

[Bronson Dugnutt]

Minolta 16 QT w/ Vision3 50D bleach bypass and not
and a processing defect of the remjet impacting the emulsion

Edit:

 

[Cholentpot]

Just ordered some Plus-X and Tri-X. Expired but who knows.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I developed a roll of 110 but the film was roached. Looks horrible. No point in posting anything from it.

On the upside, I loaded a 110 cartridge with microfilm to put in my Rollei E110. The shutter on that is intermittent, but with the microfilm it won't matter if I lose frames. I also loaded probably 50 exposures. Should be interesting to see what happens. Need to figure out the speed difference and put some ND over the meter window. The E110 will wind and fire without the spacing holes. I think the holes are just used to stop the winding on that camera.

I also picked up a Kodak Ektramax. I have a roll of Kodak in that now, just haven't used it yet. Should be interesting to see what the lens is like. It won't fire without the spacing holes though, so it is only usable for regular film.

If I get anything worthwhile I'll post it.

 

[ciniframe]

Just ordered some Plus-X and Tri-X. Expired but who knows.

Couple of years ago I bought 100ft. of 16mm Tri-X, at the time B&H was out of 16mm Double-X. But it has a rimjet backing that has to be removed before processing and if you look up ‘removing rimjet’ you get ten different opinions from ten different sites (only a slight exaggeration).
So, when I run out of my XX (soon) I’ll try the simplest method first. A teaspoon of baking soda in plain tepid water and slosh it around. Repeat until the mixture runs clear.
We will see.

 

[Cholentpot]

Couple of years ago I bought 100ft. of 16mm Tri-X, at the time B&H was out of 16mm Double-X. But it has a rimjet backing that has to be removed before processing and if you look up ‘removing rimjet’ you get ten different opinions from ten different sites (only a slight exaggeration).
So, when I run out of my XX (soon) I’ll try the simplest method first. A teaspoon of baking soda in plain tepid water and slosh it around. Repeat until the mixture runs clear.
We will see.

Tri-X has remjet? Ugh. I thought b&w film doesn't have the stuff on it. I know how to remove it but it's another step. Live and learn I guess.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Some B&W cine stocks do, some don't. Eastman 5222 and 7222 don't (35mm and 16mm Double-X) as far as I know.

 

[Huss]

Tri-X has remjet? Ugh. I thought b&w film doesn't have the stuff on it. I know how to remove it but it's another step. Live and learn I guess.

That only applies to the 16mm TriX, right? Never had issues with regular TriX.